How long do these bearings last? If I am changing my gear set, there's no rule about changing bearings at the same time, is there? My differential gears have maybe 3000 miles on them, and the pinion maybe 10,000. I'm not getting cheap, I am trying to make things easier.

If I reuse the pinion bearings, I eliminate tolerances from a multivariable equation. Cuz if the markings on the end of a Richmond pinion indicate the distance from the differential centerline, and I know what I have now, I can shim and mic the new Richmonds match. That's gotta be pretty close for a first pass. And if the bearings are the same, the crush sleeve distance won't change, so I will only have to do about 125ftlbs on the nut to button it back up.

If I reuse the differential bearings, I will only have to add to and take away the same amount from each side, and the preload will stay the same.

OK, shoot down my idea... I mean... tell me why I might not want to do this...

Well ,you can account for variences in the housing but not the gearset.
Yes ,I understand your thinking but I don't think I take the gamble.
Just get a good install kit.

Bearings are made with very impressive precision and are not really a variable in the setup. You should have no problems re-using the bearings.

It's best to use new bearings and set the bearing preload the way it's suppose to be. I understand what you are trying to do and it might get you close. You are assuming that the pinion depth was set correctly by the person that put these gears in. If I had no experience setting up gears then I might be trying to do the same thing that you are doing. Knowing what I know now I wouldn't try it. It's best to use new bearings and set the pinion depth by reading the contact pattern.

When I installed the posi 3000 miles ago, I hoped I wouldn't have to mess with the pinion depth. I just installed the old ring on the new posi, shimmed it for .008 backlash, and checked the pattern. The pattern looked good and the forum guys concurred. It was quiet, too, so I assume the pinion is currently correct. In any case, I will only drive this car 10,000 miles more in my lifetime.

I have the time, patience, and basic micrometer reading skills to trial and error it... It's not having a press to do everything right that's killing me.

Hey, a new question... how do you get the bearings seated in the housing bosses? Does tightening the pinion nut, to say 125fp, do it?

Seat them with a hammer and punch.

For a 100.0 buck's, just buy a Yukon install kit.

For a 100.0 buck's, just buy a Yukon install kit.

It's not the money, it's the hassle. It's either do it myself, or take my whole axle out to take it to someone else, or put it back together and drive the car next April and risk leaving it at a shop. I was planning on buying a Yukon kit anyway. If the existing bearings and races looked good, I would chuck the new bearings because setting it up with the old bearings sounds easier.

For a 100.0 buck's, just buy a Yukon install kit.

I bought the complete Yukon 12 bolt install kit directly from Freddie (Big Gear Head)!! :thumbsup: He also rebuilt the Eaton posi.

A buddy and I did both our 12 bolts in his driveway, If I remember correctly we borrowed a pinion bearing that was hogged out a little to set the pinion, that way we didn't have to press it on and off to get it set correctly. Both rears worked great, used Yukon gears and install kit also.

In your case, at the minumum use a new crush sleeve.
You will still need to check the BL and read the pattern and reshim as necessary. Tom