I RECENTLY GOT A SWEET 67 WAGON THE WAS WELL ON ITS WAY TO BEING A GREAT HOTROD. I HAVE READ LOTS ABOUT THE F AND B BODY SPINDLES AND TUBULAR A ARMS. I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT WHAT IS ON MY CAR IS GOING TO BE OK. IT HAS THE FATMAN UPPER AND LOWER ARMS (THE NARROW ONES), CLASSIC PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS 2 INCH DROP SPINDLE, AND 1 INCH LOWERED SPRINGS ( MANUFACTURE UNKNOWN). THE REAR HAS 2 INCH DROP SPRINGS. THE RIDE HEIGHT IS 6 AND 1/4 INCHES AT THE FRAME JUST BEHIND THE TURN OUT IN FRONT OF THE DOOR. THE GEOMETRY LOOKS REALLY GOOD AND EVERYTHING FITS WELL NOW THAT THE FRAME HAS BEEN TRIMMED AND PLATED WHERE THE UPPER CONTROL ARM WAS HITTING THE FRAME ON REBOUND. LIKE I SAID I JUST WANTED TO MAKE SURE THAT THIS WAS GOING TO BE A GOOD SET UP. IT LOOKS REALLY GREAT WITH THE WHEELS TUCKED IN THE FENDERS AND THE STANCE THAT IT HAS. THANKS VERY MUCH AND I WOULD LIKE TO SAY THIS IS A GREAT SITE WITH A LOT OF GREAT INFO FROM PEOPLE THAT REALLY LOVE THE OLD CHEVELLE.

CHEVELLE NEVER DIE, THEY ARE JUST RACED OR TURNED INTO COOL HOTRODS!!!!

I don't know what the narrowed arms might do to the suspension geometry. Maybe nothing.

A 3 inch drop on the front can be a little low on some roads. You probably won't have the problems in Florida as those of us up north might have. If you're putting headers on the motor, just be careful they don't hang too low.

You should be fine otherwise, I think. Sounds like it should look pretty good. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Tim.

Hey Shaggin', there is a key just to the left of the "a" key. Please press it one time for me. That should turn a little LED on your keyboard OFF. Thank you.

Narrowed arms are only for extra wheel clearence, they have no affect on suspension geometry. So far it sounds pretty good, low and slow :D

Thanks for all of the input. It always helps to get other opinions and ideas from those that have been there and done that. However, I got up in the middle of the night and thought about something. What am I going to do about a sway bar for the front now that the arms are shorter. I am thinking that a later model G or F body front arm will work. Any thoughts on that? Thanks a bunch for the continued help. If I can find out how to post a pic, I will post one. Thats right........low and slow.

The lower arms should not be any shorter, they are narrower to accomodate larger wheels but the actual length from the ball joint to the pivot should be the same. Also most fab companies are pretty good about placing things like sway bar link holes in an OEM position, or as close to as possible. I would run a 2nd gen Z28 bar.

The arms that I have are shorter that stock arms. The lower arm is shorter between the spring set and ball joint to narrow the track so that the tires will tuck into the fenders when you lower them down. The ends of the stock length sway bar is out to the lower ball joint. That is why I was thinkinf of the G body front bar that is only 45 inches between the eyelets. Thanks for any help.