Well starting off i have a 71 Chevelle which this weekend im wanting to start my frame off restoration but i have a couple of ideas i just don't know what will be the best to go with so im asking the experts. First my Frame im going to have it professional sandblasted for $125 with this company that offer mobile sandblasting. (Don't even have to leave the house) But after i have that done is there a primer i should apply to the frame after its done are should i just put the POR-15 on and move on to the next project.
Now my brakes. The car has power drum brakes and Im going to do a disc conversion from spindles off a 68 corvette Frame that was at a friends junkyard which it has the 4 piston calipers will those spindles be considered A-body or B-Body spindles. Which im getting rid of my rear drums i have a rear disc brake conversion from stainless Steel brakes. Im going to put on. But my question about brakes is should i use braided flex lines or should i just use the rubber lines and do you think i will need to get a proporting valve to adjust the pressure to my back brakes.
Suspension is my big thing what i want is for the car to have great street handling. What suspension setup should i put together to get the ride i want. Because i purchased a complete HyperFlex Kit and im going to add hotkins sway bar kit on the car but so far as the lower and upper control arms should i use the stock control arms are upgrade and what will the upgrade arms offer in my suspension and ride. And what about rear control arms should i use my stock are upgrade.

POR-15 AND paint it. I use POR-15 a lot and love it. It's awesome stuff. However, it can oftentimes give an unconsistent finish and will also become dull or greay with exposure to UV. You should top-coat over it. Just scuff it, and shoot it with an enamel.

what type of paint should i use because the car will also be driven alot so i will hate for the bottom paint to get all strached up so i will need something durable are is it possible to use POR-15 and then use eastwood chassis coat because eastwood has the exact black used by GM under the bottom.

I was told by the owner/inventor of POR-15 that if you top coat it with any enamel when it's still tacky, that will color it permanently. He said just use a spray can and shoot it before it dries.

Incidently, POR-15 was accidentally invented while trying to develop a glue to attach bulletin boards to walls.

I'm not a believer in POR15 when you want to do a proper job by sandblasting or otherwise removing all the rust and then painting the surface. Get some good urethane primer and paint for it. I guess I'm just not a believer in what POR claims POR15 will do (or many of it's products for that matter). Now, the engine paint is another story, it's worked great for me so for.

You could also powdercoat it if you trust the powdercoater. If it's not done correctly it makes a bigger mess than any other method though. I've seen lots of bad powdercoating at work and it ends up with rust underneath and then peels in big chunks.

Peter

how far are you from ashland va? get your frame galvanized! http://home.comcast.net/~petelohr/einstyn1/einstyn-06.htm

not that far about how much do the charge only 4 hours

around $200. but thats for 400 pounds, so take your frame and anything else you want galvanized, like the core support, bumper brackets, control arms, crossmember (just drill 1/2" holes on the ends to let the air and fluid pass) ...

Peter, maybe you've never used POR 15 products. I've used them extensively and swear by them. In fact, I was touching up some spots on my Vega over the weekend and I'm STILL trying to get it off my ear where I brushed up against the car :mad: It won't come off your skin until your skin comes off.

I've hit a POR 15-covered piece with a GRINDER before and it took some work to get it off. It works well, bonds, and is hard as rock. It does, however, leave an uneven surface color and IMO does not look good without a top coat.

One thing I will tell you is that the surface has to be perfectly dry. One time I treated some metal with HCL to rid it of surface rust, then washed and dried it, but didn't get it completely dry before putting POR 15 on it. POR 15 has the consistency of gas (i.e. very thin) and flows on very smoothly, but will also not stick well to a wet or very smooth surface. If you've media or sand blasted the surface, it will stick well, but if it is a brand new part, it tends to take a couple coats to stick. If it's wet, forget it, it'll run right off.

i just did the same to my 65 chevelle frame,i am a bodyman by trade so i have spray guns etc,but i epoxy primed it and in 15 min i painted black enamel with a flatner added to get the right sheen i wanted,epoxy primer is a sealer it will keep out moisture,regular primer wont,thats my 2 cents

I love the POR15 products....worth every penny!!
This is my 70...with just one coat. I put the other on yesterday and it looks beautiful. I'm leaving just the POR15 on the frame since it'll never see the light of day but everything else gets a topcoat of something.
http://www.clubcamaro.com/images/chevelle/images/DSC03466.jpg
http://www.clubcamaro.com/images/chevelle/images/DSC03485.jpg
http://www.clubcamaro.com/images/chevelle/images/DSC03490.jpg