I looked thru search but couldn't find what I was looking for.

The question I have is my car has a manual steering box on it, and my parts car has a power steering box on it. Is there any difference in steering ratio on the same year car between power and manual?

Also, is the power steering that great on the 67? I mean, is it a bad design or anything that would warrent staying with a manual box?

Basically, is this kind of upgrade worth it? Been driving my car for years with manual steering lol.

I have the power steering setup (rag joint/power box/pitman arm), just missing the SS 396 power pump and brackets.

I have the specs for the 1967 power steering gear. It had a slow, 17.5:1 ratio and a fairly light effort valve at 18 inch-lb. The 17.5:1 ratio translates to the following:
87 degrees total travel lock to lock divided by 360 degrees/rev times 17.5 gear ratio = 4.22 revolutions of the steering wheel lock to lock.

I think that the manual gear had a 24:1 ratio. Same calculation: 87/360 x 24 = 5.8 revolutions.

A lot of people like the 1992 1/2 thru 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee or the 1988 thru 1996 Caprice fast ratio (12.7:1) power steering gear. Also these gears have a stiffer higher effort feel with valves that are roughly 22 in-lb.

87/360 x 12.7 = 3.1 revolutions

You can note that you have almost cut your handwheel revolutions in half with the quick ratio power gear compared to your manual gear.

My preference would be NOT to use manual steering and also NOT to use the power gear out of your parts car. I would spend the time and money to locate a salvage yard gear or purchase the equivalent remanufactured gear from a parts house.

This link to a paper I wrote on this subject may be of value:
http://www.corvettefaq.com/acar/A&F-CarFastRatioGearRev21DE04.doc

Good luck,

I would definitely not use the power steering from your donor car as is. It will most likely be loose, with no road feel. Back in 67 they thought power steering meant you should only use 1 finger to turn the wheel. The newer boxes have much more road-feel. Buy a new box (AGR makes a good one) or a rebuilt from most of the aftermarket suppliers, or have yours rebuilt. There is a lot of info on this subject here if you do a search. Also look into raising the pressure of your pump by replacing the bypass valve if you get a new box.

I was mainly looking to see if everyone thought going from 67 manual steer to 67 power steer was worth it. I wanted to keep my car "looking" original. I added power brakes, and thought...hmm I have this power steering setup up, should I put that on also.

So which is better in 67, the manual steer or power steer?

I would say the power steering is better. But, again, not the original, unrestored ps box.

I'd definately swap to the p/s box and have it rebuilt to a quicker ratio while keeping the stock look. You'll need to keep the p/s pitman arm with the p/s unit. If you donor car has the pump/lines/brackets, you're ahead of the game in the swap.

One rebuilder is http://www.powersteering.com/ for $239. Haven't used them yet but I have a second p/s box for my 67 Elky that I'm going to have them redo. Might look into a new flex coupling (rag joint) while you are at it; they have 'em too. I had an AGR unit on my (now sold) 67 SS and the quicker ratio is nice but $100 more for the AGR unit and it doesn't have the stock appearance you're looking for.

I'm swapping out a power box on my '67 to go manual. Since you want original appearance, the newer, quicker boxes are out of the question. That being the case, if you're happy with the effort required of a manual, why change? As has been pointed out above, the '67 era power steering set-ups had little road feel. Plus, the manual set-up looks so much cleaner without the pump/hoses. It's great for the forearms, too!