Hellwig Pro-Touring Sway Bars

Nice. I need one of those!

Andrew

Just began the install of this bar on my '69 and I had a couple of install tips for anyone looking to install one of these bad boys.
1. Getting the greased bushings in the link ends was a PITA. If you have a 4" c-clamp or a benchvice it was much easier.
2. I drilled for the brackets with the rear end off of the car I also had to drop the exhaust to be able to fit the drill in there. So, if you have a welded as one piece exhaust, you might want to drop the whole exhaust out as well.

I tried as best I could to make sure the brackets were level once torqued down. It's a very tight area at that part of the cross member but a cheapo 5" bubble level sat on top of the end link bracket well.

I was contorting myself trying to get pressure on the drill and now my back hurts, lol. Here's a couple pics of the brackets installed. Also, the second and last pictures shows how far the rear brake line needs to be repositioned to make room for the link bracket on the driver's side.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2321.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2318.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2323.jpg

Good info Dan! I have my rear axle out right now, and hadn't even thought about drilling the holes for the sway bar.

Looks like you got it right. It will be worth the effort. It made quite a difference in the handling AND ride quality on my 68 Chevelle.

Just began the install of this bar on my '69 and I had a couple of install tips for anyone looking to install one of these bad boys.
1. Getting the greased bushings in the link ends was a PITA. If you have a 4" c-clamp or a benchvice it was much easier.
2. I drilled for the brackets with the rear end off of the car I also had to drop the exhaust to be able to fit the drill in there. So, if you have a welded as one piece exhaust, you might want to drop the whole exhaust out as well.

I tried as best I could to make sure the brackets were level once torqued down. It's a very tight area at that part of the cross member but a cheapo 5" bubble level sat on top of the end link bracket well.

I was contorting myself trying to get pressure on the drill and now my back hurts, lol. Here's a couple pics of the brackets installed. Also, the second and last pictures shows how far the rear brake line needs to be repositioned to make room for the link bracket on the driver's side.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2321.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2318.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2323.jpg

Hmmm.... Any concerns about the brake line laying on top of the bracket and eventually rubbing a hole in the brake line. Kind of makes me nervous.

Hmmm.... Any concerns about the brake line laying on top of the bracket and eventually rubbing a hole in the brake line. Kind of makes me nervous.

It's a hardline and the OE line had the coiled protection on it at that point.
There is also enough room in that area to bend the line so it doesn't rest on the bracket.
A couple of solutions... wrap a 3" piece of 3/8 to 7/16 hose (cut length wise) and/or drill another hole for the OE line strap to keep it from moving.
The line is pretty solid at that point so I am going to go with a piece of fuel line as an insulator.

It's a hardline and the OE line had the coiled protection on it at that point.
There is also enough room in that area to bend the line so it doesn't rest on the bracket.
A couple of solutions... wrap a 3" piece of 3/8 to 7/16 hose (cut length wise) and/or drill another hole for the OE line strap to keep it from moving.
The line is pretty solid at that point so I am going to go with a piece of fuel line as an insulator.

Thanks, got to remember that when I get my new Hellwig sway bar. Not quite there yet.

It's a hardline and the OE line had the coiled protection on it at that point.
There is also enough room in that area to bend the line so it doesn't rest on the bracket.
A couple of solutions... wrap a 3" piece of 3/8 to 7/16 hose (cut length wise) and/or drill another hole for the OE line strap to keep it from moving.
The line is pretty solid at that point so I am going to go with a piece of fuel line as an insulator.

X2 on everything Dan. It looks like you've been taking photos of my car, it all looks the same.

Thanks for the pics. I have one of these in the mail. Can't wait.

Looks like you got it right. It will be worth the effort. It made quite a difference in the handling AND ride quality on my 68 Chevelle.

Can you elaborate what difference it made on ride quality?

Mine has been sitting since x'mas. Silly me... i thought it was 100% bolt on :)

Thanks for the heads up Dan!

Mine has been sitting since x'mas. Silly me... i thought it was 100% bolt on :)

Thanks for the heads up Dan!


Dropping the rear end out of the way and dropping exhaust and that stock hanger is in the install sheet.

Relocating brake line is in the install sheet.

The instructions are very complete and thorough, IMO and I am a self described shortbus rider.

But it is a bolt on and go deal. You just have enlarge a few holes and drill two before you get to that point. :D

I got those bushings together by putting them on my workbench, good amount of lube and then placing piece of wood over them and pushing them in with my hands. Two cursewords per side and I was done. But then found I cannot use this bar because it doesnt clear my truckarm set up. So now waiting on an RMA from SC&C and feedback from hellwig on a custom bend per measurements I took and fired off to Mark.

I REALLY dig this rear bar (I got the front hollow one too) and cant wait to see what they come up with for me. When it arrives I will look it over and read the install sheet. ;):p

Dropping the rear end out of the way and dropping exhaust and that stock hanger is in the install sheet.

Relocating brake line is in the install sheet.

The instructions are very complete and thorough, IMO and I am a self described shortbus rider.Instructions? We don't need no stinking instructions!

Actually, I've had mine for a few months, and haven't even opened the box yet. :o

Two cursewords per side and I was done.Details man, we need details... which 2 cursewords did you find to be the most effective? Are there curseword suggestions on the install sheet? I want to make sure I get this right. ;)

subscribing.. i wanna check this out..
been thinking about it for a while now..
and if mark has them in stock.. i can DRIVE down to his company and pick them up as hes like 45 min from me!

AARON

subscribing.. i wanna check this out..
been thinking about it for a while now..
and if mark has them in stock.. i can DRIVE down to his company and pick them up as hes like 45 min from me!


I am hesitant to say you're lucky to be in PA, but you qualify based on proximity to Mark, for sure. :p

I'll have the bar mounted once I complete the disc brake install. Maybe this weekend! :D

haha i really like PA, on the east coast at the top of the valley, in the country. its great!
also gives me time to build the car during the winter, haha

aaron

subscribing.. i wanna check this out..
been thinking about it for a while now..
and if mark has them in stock.. i can DRIVE down to his company and pick them up as hes like 45 min from me!

AARON
I believe mine was drop-shipped directly from Hellwig (Mark gives you this option) but he could very well have them in stock too.

What part of the install requires the rear to be removed? Is there anyway to not fully pull it out?

Would a 90* drill help at all?

What part of the install requires the rear to be removed? Is there anyway to not fully pull it out?

Would a 90* drill help at all?

I was using a full-size electric drill. a 90deg would help as long as you could contort yourself enough to get some weight behind it. IF you have the car on a lift, it would make it even easier. I was doing all this from the kneeling position. :sad:

??? Installed mine without dropping the diff. Put the car on jack stands and drilled with a cordless Makita. Thought it was a pretty straight forward assembly.

??? Installed mine without dropping the diff. Put the car on jack stands and drilled with a cordless Makita. Thought it was a pretty straight forward assembly.

I'm hoping for the same. Still waiting for the mail man to bring them.

long shot... anyone in southern california doing this install soon? we can practice our curse words together ;)

Its on now... I was trying my best to seem like an idiot, trying like hell to mount the swaybar upsidedown. :(

About 20 minutes and a beer break later, I looked at the instructions... and it dawned on me. Yeah well, I never wanted to be part of MENSA anyway. :p

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2352.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2351.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2350.jpg

Looks like I missed a spot on my axle paint job... lol. Time to touch up that spot and get some sleep. :boring:

Looks good. Hoping mine will show up this week.

Mine goes in Friday. I've reserved a lift - hopefully no headaches!

There should be no need to drop the axle for installation. Just disconnect the rear shocks and remove the coil springs allowing the axle to droop while connected to the control arms. While developing this bar, I did the install on my 68 Chevelle in my garage with jackstands to prove the concept was feasible for the average DIY'er. As long as the coil spring is out of the way, drilling the holes should not be a problem. Stock exhaust and Flowmaster or Pypes kits are no problem but other exhaust routings may make drilling the holes more challenging.

Thanks for that info, Dave. I've got a Flowmaster system under mine, and it's reassuring to know I don't have to take the Sawzall to it...

There should be no need to drop the axle for installation. Just disconnect the rear shocks and remove the coil springs allowing the axle to droop while connected to the control arms. While developing this bar, I did the install on my 68 Chevelle in my garage with jackstands to prove the concept was feasible for the average DIY'er. As long as the coil spring is out of the way, drilling the holes should not be a problem. Stock exhaust and Flowmaster or Pypes kits are no problem but other exhaust routings may make drilling the holes more challenging.



Dave,

How much for this bar on a '70 Chevelle???

I just ordered the 1.25" tubular front bar from Mark this morning :)

My bars showed up yesterday. I'm going to wait and see how the front bar fits. Mark assured me it was a A-Body only bar and I wouldn't have to flip it like my current bar. Well when the package arrived of course it fits something like 64-77 A-Body, F-Body and G-Body. Not what I was told, but I hope it fits.

The stock F-Body Bar fits the 64-72 A-body very well. However, most of the development work on the 1-1/4" tubular bar you have was done on Chevelles as their clearance issues are more demanding than the 70-81 F-Body. You should not have to flip the bar upside down, in fact you won't be able to as the center section of the bar is angled 15 deg down to give more steering box clearance and will hit the steering box if flipped upside down. If you do have tie rod clearance issues, a longer end link is the best way to resolve the issue. We can supply longer end links if needed.

Sounds good. I'm running my current bar upside down because of tie rod clearance. I'll let you know if I need anything when I get it on. Should be sometime in the next week or so.

Just installed my setup,,did not have to drop the springs or the shocks,piece of a cake. I do have a question,,the instructions really do not give you any info on setting the lock nut setup on the links.Is the sway bar suppose to be level and no preload then tighten the nut or something else for some kind ?

I just installed the rear bar last night. Was pretty simple and I lucked out with my exhaust and brake lines. Everything cleared. Didn't take any pics. I'll try to get some later.

I did lower the rear down and pull the springs out so I could get the drill in there easier. I used one of those Irwin quick grip clamps to get the bushings and sleeves into the links.

I adjusted the endlinks until the sway bar ends were close to parallel with the ground.

Set it on the softest setting until I get used to it and drove the car to work today. I can already tell there is a difference. Hopefully I can get the tubular front bar on next week.

One other important note. This bar fits my car even with the big 22 gallon Impala SS tank. The other bar I tried before wouldn't fit because it was only bent on one plane. This one dips down under the rear cover.

I *finally* got my front tubular bar in the mail yesterday. Although the coordination between SC&C and Hellwig shipping isn't the best, I got lucky by having someone home to receive my shipment. :hurray:

Hoping to have time this weekend to install both front and rear bars.

Great to hear about yours Mike!

Mine fits nice too! Even with the Fays2 Watts link. I can't wait to get some miles under it and feel the difference.

Killer stuff!

im trying to mount one on my 71 lemans it looks to me that the little tab that is for the exahaust hanger will NOT hang below the crossmember.....im not sure if the chevelle crossmember is different or if i drilled in the wrong spot however one bracket is mounted and looks decent... however when i went over to the other side there are no pre existing holes to drill out because this particular car did not come with a sway bar from the factory.... any ideas on if i messed up the drilling on the bracket i have finished and how i can mount the other side correctly?

im trying to mount one on my 71 lemans it looks to me that the little tab that is for the exahaust hanger will NOT hang below the crossmember.....im not sure if the chevelle crossmember is different or if i drilled in the wrong spot however one bracket is mounted and looks decent... however when i went over to the other side there are no pre existing holes to drill out because this particular car did not come with a sway bar from the factory.... any ideas on if i messed up the drilling on the bracket i have finished and how i can mount the other side correctly?

Take and post pics, this might help us determine the problem.