I recently converted to power disc brakes from manual drums on my 67. Everything fits good but I am having a hard time with the brake pedal. The pedal when in its resting position with the manual drums would trigger the switch for the stop lamps. Now with the power booster installed and the new clevis attached to the pedal the pedal will not go back to the original position and depress the switch for the stop lamps. If I adjust the clevis all the way out it just presses the switch. Can I leave the pedal adjusted this way or will it affect the way the brakes operate? I know with the manual drums I couldn't adjust the pedal this way but am not sure with the new booster and master cylinder. Is it possible that I need a new brake pedal to go with the rest of new equipment. Oh and by the way the new assembly uses the lower hole on the brake pedal.

Also, do I need to hook up the orginal return spring for the power brake setup? It doesn't seem like it needs it.

when i converted my 69 i had to use the second or lower hole on the brake pedal, that might be your problem the clevis pin might be to high and binding the pedal.i bought my kit from master power brakes they stressed that brake pedal hole on the instructions,hope this helps....

I cannot say for sure how it goes on a '67. On a '72 the brake pedal is the same for power or non-power. There is a sheet metal tab that gets fastened to the pedal with power brakes. This tab reaches back to contact the brake switch. Some folks have faked this by putting a sheet metal screw into the end of the plunger on the switch to achieve a suitable result.

I figured something must mount on there to make up the difference in space. How about the spring that used to bring the pedal back to it's orignal position. Is it used with power brakes?

Originally posted by kochese:
I figured something must mount on there to make up the difference in space. How about the spring that used to bring the pedal back to it's orignal position. Is it used with power brakes? Spring isn't needed or used. The pedal returns without it on power brakes. The part you are missing is called a striker. With a bolt and nut the striker attaches to the brake pedal and pushes in the brake switch.

I had to adjust the switch holder for the brake light at least 1/4" after performing the same brake conversion you did. Also, I replaced the original spring with an Orchard Supply spring (lighter) since I didn't want to have the pedal without a return spring.

Good luck with your conversion - BTW...did you purchase a kit or did you come up with your own?

I purchased the kit from a restoration shop in East Aurora N.Y. I didn't want to piece together a system and deal with all those headaches so I bought everthing new; spindles, rotors, calipers, lines, proportioning valve etc. It came out great and most of the visible hardware looks stock. I'm trying to figure out what to do about the rears.