I can get a 68 casting #3916323ED code 396 for my 67SS 4 spd with 66 heads #3872702 (complete but need rebuilding).

Block is .040 bored but not finish honed, boiled out. comes with original crank, rods & pistons & pan.

Heads & block for $700

Does it seem too much since it is close but not actually the right motor?

Depends...if youre going to show it or sell it and ask good money "almost" correct wont bring the $...in most cases.
Numbers matching guys are a funny breed and anything non correct will give them grounds to beat you down in price.
Just an opinion, I could be way off.

If you arent worried about correct go ahead and build it your way and enjoy it.

I don't have any documentation for this car and I'm not selling it. I just figured if I was gong to replace my motor, if I can get a 396, I should do that rather than a 454 (which are everywhere). I guess the question is; is $700 too much of a premium to pay? I guess a block with rods & crank that's been cleaned & bored is worth $400 alone, with rebuildable heads worth $200.

I don't think there is such an animal as "almost" correct. It either is a correct 1967 dated block, or it isn't. To quote Seinfeld, "Not that there is anything wrong with that." Of course that's just my oppinion. :thumbsup:

That being said. Is it a two or a four bolt main block? I don't have the book in front of me right now. I think that will play quite the difference in the value of a complete engine needing rebuilding.

I don't think there is such an animal as "almost" correct. It either is a correct 1967 dated block, or it isn't. Of course that's just my oppinion.

That being said. Is it a two or a four bolt main block? I don't have the book in front of me right now. I think that will play quite the difference in the value of a complete engine needing rebuilding.

2 bolt

I don't think there is such an animal as "almost" correct. It either is a correct 1967 dated block, or it isn't. .

I totally agree... That motor is really no more correct than any other 396, and except for the bore, its not really anymore correct than a 454... The ONLY thing that makes it a "Chevelle" motor is the ED deck stamp, but if the stamp is still there, then likely the vin derivative (so everybody will know its not correct for your car). Except for that stamp, and cam/carb/ingnition curve, all 396s will be basically the same (Impala, Camaro, Chevelle, etc)... There's a pretty good chance it will need to be decked anyway, so those stamps will be gone...

NO ONE is going to look at the casting number once its in the car, unless you are selling it or having the car judged... In either case, you'd lose points because its not the correct casting number...


Block is .040 bored but not finish honed, boiled out. comes with original crank, rods & pistons & pan.

Heads & block for $700


Block and heads? or block, heads, crank, rods, pan?

$700 seems a little high for everything, but definitely high for just a block and heads that need rebuilding... Unless its a 4-bolt main block, Steel crank?... maybe make a counter-offer... IMO, $400-$500 IF its guaranteed good condition (as you described) with a good crank ( usable, maybe needs grinding/polishing, but no cracks)

Any guarantee that its all good? 0.040 over? So it will hone out to that 0.040? Or will it need to go to 0.060 when you build it? Was it magafluxed for cracks?

IF you want correct, hold out for the correct block. If you can live with incorrect casting numbers, then look for a good deal...

In my case I was happy finding any bbc to rebuild for the SS but later on I caught the bug to find the orig. motor. Long story but I found one with the correct code and the vin was only a few hundred off sequence. It wasnt' the orig. granted but just having the correct date code and motor code gave me a warm and fuzzy. You just have to know what you can live with long term and if you'll have regrets not finding a closer match. That motor you've got isn't even close. By the way, in my case the vin is down by the oil filter so nobody can tell and it takes a hell of an effort to see it.

Jerry

your not playing horse shoes, hand grenades, and atomic war fare. its either right or wrong. in your case its wrong having a casting date a year after your car was made means its just another 396. now if you find a block cast a couple of months or weeks before your cars build date then its just another 396 but IT COULD be correct. but only to you. and you know that it is still not the original block. that does not make it worth any more money unless the stamp pad has your vin number stamped on there

If it doesn't matter to you, go with more cubes! Its not going to be numbers matching anyway, might as well have more power.:beers:

Block and heads? or block, heads, crank, rods, pan?

$700 seems a little high for everything, but definitely high for just a block and heads that need rebuilding... Unless its a 4-bolt main block, Steel crank?... maybe make a counter-offer... IMO, $400-$500 IF its guaranteed good condition (as you described) with a good crank ( usable, maybe needs grinding/polishing, but no cracks)

Any guarantee that its all good? 0.040 over? So it will hone out to that 0.040? Or will it need to go to 0.060 when you build it? Was it magafluxed for cracks?

IF you want correct, hold out for the correct block. If you can live with incorrect casting numbers, then look for a good deal...

Block, crank, (don't know..he said original) rods & original pistons, pan. No intake or timing cover. I have to ask if the bore is a few under .040. It has been cleaned & checked for craks and also the vin & engine code is all there.....never decked.

I started looking for a rebuildable 454 #289 casting but can't seem to find one local and I guess I got a over enthusiastic to find a 396.

I am not too concerned with being "correct".

Its not going to be numbers matching anyway...

Yep, it'll never be a numbers matching car, so trying to get something "close," or "almost," is really a moot point.
So put what you want under the hood.

Regards,
-Greg

My concern would be it is already bored .040 over. If the block has any problems you're out the money. I would not buy with payment until after a machine shop looked at it.

My concern would be it is already bored .040 over. If the block has any problems you're out the money. I would not buy with payment until after a machine shop looked at it.

ditto that. offer to pay to have it sonic checked & magnafluxed. After that, as long as it passes both tests I would be okay paying for it.

I can get a 68 casting #3916323ED code 396 for my 67SS 4 spd with 66 heads #3872702 (complete but need rebuilding).

Block is .040 bored but not finish honed, boiled out. comes with original crank, rods & pistons & pan.

Heads & block for $700

Does it seem too much since it is close but not actually the right motor?

If they are "original pistons" they won't be of any use to you since the block is .040 already. I agree with most on the numbers part. One close to your build date would be worth paying a little extra to me, but since this is a mix of different parts, I would say that it is of no higher value. Now, a '68 guy might be willing to pay a little more for it. If you were getting the intake and brackets it would be worth every penny of $700. I would try to get it for $550 ($600 would be a fair price).

Keep looking. Case in point. I bought recently to replace my 396 a standard bore 402 for $50 bucks, a set of 063 heads for $50 bucks and a steel std/std crank for 100 bucks.
200 bucks for a nice foundation that will withstand at least 2 more builds and you can poor a ton more into the valvetrain!! :thumbsup: seriously, keep looking.