I'm getting ready to replace the cracked windshield in my 68 Chevelle. I plan on doing it myself. Can anybody recommend the best place to buy a new windshield and the correct thickness for the butyl? I'm also going to remove and put back the original rear window. I'm looking for the correct thickness for butyl there too.

This will be my first time working with the windshield so any pointers are appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

I can't help you with the butyl (I had a glass shop install mine), but a search of this forum should give you the answer. I recommend Auto City Classic for your glass, 1-800-699-6472. Lots of folks on this site have used them and are pleased with their products and service.
BillL

You want the thickest butyl you can get, because the replacement glass is a hair thinner. I use 3/8. A bit thinker(7/16) would be good, but I've never seen it. Clean up the pinch weld real well, that the glass sits on, and use the butyl primer. It comes in a small bottle, with a brush.

I appreciate the help. Auto City Classics windshields appear to be reasonably priced and have free shipping.

Thanks,

Chris

I got mine locally 10 years ago. A autoglass shop on Richmond North of Gessner. The name escapes me though.

Use 5/16" on the rear glass.

$175.00 installed, he used the butyl primer and the 3/8" tape - from an installer here in the Atlanta area. Came to the house 2 times. Once to remove the old and found a bit of rust. I cleaned and prepped the flange area with epoxy primer and then he came back and installed the new glass - with the correct tint. I wouldn't mess with having one shipped and installed myself.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296037j.... cj, read this thread.....

At 16 years in autoglass, I preach urethane for ALL installations....

Steve O.

$175.00 installed, he used the butyl primer and the 3/8" tape - from an installer here in the Atlanta area. Came to the house 2 times. Once to remove the old and found a bit of rust. I cleaned and prepped the flange area with epoxy primer and then he came back and installed the new glass - with the correct tint. I wouldn't mess with having one shipped and installed myself.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296037j.... cj, read this thread.....

At 16 years in autoglass, I preach urethane for ALL installations....

Steve O.

I realize correct installation is a constant debate. I prefer urethane, get it done perfectly every time. Same shop has been doing our vehicles, resto and collision for over twenty years.
They will not use butyl and cannot under their liability insurance policy. Plus I can't buy a windshield and install it for what they charge. Their work is guaranteed.

Thank You, Raven 1!!:yes:

Steve O.

Chris, make sure you use the 3/8" butyl tape. DO NOT use the tube stuff. Mine was installed without the tape and the stainless trim does not fit correctly. Now I have to remove the windshield (without breaking it) and reinstall it.

Chris, make sure you use the 3/8" butyl tape. DO NOT use the tube stuff. Mine was installed without the tape and the stainless trim does not fit correctly. Now I have to remove the windshield (without breaking it) and reinstall it.

Sorry to hear that Alex, My glass shop usess the urethane and gets the glass height right every time, even without using the molding to establish height. Their good. Clean, neat, professional installation. A different tech came out from one 4 years ago and he is just as good. Quality and consistency. If a glass shop cannot do a good job on a classic then you've got the wrong shop.

I use safety wire to get the old windshield out. Spool out about three feet of the wire and cut one end with a slash cut to make it sharp. Poke it through your existing sealer and if you can't you can heat the tip of the wire to get it to burn through. I wrap the wire on a coulpe screw drivers, and with the help of a friend, pull/saw through the seal. The trick is to stay off the edges of the glass. AGAIN, Don't drag the wire on the edge of the glass! You'll break the glass that way. Pay attention when you get to a corner. I've been using the same glass guy for 40 years....myself! Can't beat the prices. Where you at in Houston?

I use safety wire to get the old windshield out...

A small "E" guitar string works perfectly.
You can get one at any music shop.

Regards,
-Greg

Scott, do you know how they achieve the height with urethane? Mine is a good 3/8" low.

Scott, do you know how they achieve the height with urethane? Mine is a good 3/8" low.

As far as Camaros go the service manual tells you exactly how to cut the tip in order to get the correct bead. These guys do it all the time so they know how to cut it. The tube nozzle is triagular and lays the bead reflecting it's shape. It's a cordless gun. I'm usually around so I help him drop it in place and voila...perfect. Slap on the molding the next day and it's the correct elevation. How can I justify removal of old and installation of new, when they come to me and do it, guaranteed work, for $145-150? And if it's my own car I have full glass anyway so I can't lose. When I was in collision the shop cannot be cost effective doing their own glass. Maybe I'm lucky with this company. One would assume doing resto glass quality would be the result but obviously that's not always the case.

Scott, I wish I had these guys do mine. I'm looking for a shop that has some old guys who may know what to do.

Scott, I wish I had these guys do mine. I'm looking for a shop that has some old guys who may know what to do.

It would be great if all installers had the experience with our classics, but most don't. It's really a PITA if they screw up with urethane and it has to be removed. That's why when it was time to install my windshield and rear glass I chose to use butly tape. It was easy to install myself and I know it was done right. My moldings fit perfect and were carefully installed without being hammered on with a mallet.

If you are lucky enough to have someone that can do a good job with urethane than by all means go for it, but for me I didn't want anyone experimenting with my car.

Mike

Scott, I wish I had these guys do mine. I'm looking for a shop that has some old guys who may know what to do.

Both in their 40's and at it for nearly 20 years. And they can rattle off the history of glass installation. Believe me I've seen pics of jobs that were horrendous. Perhaps call a resto shop and ask who does their glass. There has to be someone who is capable of doing quality work.

I used a local glass companey that had a rep for doing classics, they know their business, just make sure you get the right tint, green factory or otherwise......

I use safety wire to get the old windshield out. Spool out about three feet of the wire and cut one end with a slash cut to make it sharp. Poke it through your existing sealer and if you can't you can heat the tip of the wire to get it to burn through. I wrap the wire on a coulpe screw drivers, and with the help of a friend, pull/saw through the seal. The trick is to stay off the edges of the glass. AGAIN, Don't drag the wire on the edge of the glass! You'll break the glass that way. Pay attention when you get to a corner. I've been using the same glass guy for 40 years....myself! Can't beat the prices. Where you at in Houston?

I'm in Cypress (NW Houston). I contacted a glass shop in Tomball that will install a new windshield for $217 including tax. I don't think I could do it myself for much less than that. They said it's tinted green with a blue eyeshade at the top. Roger-can you give me the name of your installer. I'd like to contact him too.

I have a removal tool to take the old windshield out. It's cracked so it's okay if it breaks further. By doing it myself I can take my time and clean/paint the pinchweld. I'm also installing a vinyl top (which should be interesting on it's own). It should be easier to do that with the windshield out.

I appreciate everybody's input. Sure makes the job easier when you have some experience to draw from.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/olp/images/misc/progress.gif

i tried to put my windshield back in a waste of time because it cracked.i called a auto glass co. and next day they installed a new one perfect job 275 total.i also had them take out the rear glass and reinstall it.they did the rear for 100 bucks i think i made the right choice excellent job.

Chris, I install my own glass so I don't have an installer to call. I just call the autoglass shops in the yellow pages and source the windshield. Then I go and get it, bring it home and put it in myself with a roll of buytl. Actually, I can't install alone, I have to have help setting it in.............which is my wife if nobody else is around.

Ditto using the guitar string to cut the old seal. Works perfect! :thumbsup:

If you decide to do the job yourself, the butyl tape is the easiest method in my opinion. I had no problem finding 3M brand window ribbon from my local NAPA store, and was available in 5/16 or 3/8 thickness. Less than $20 each, and includes setting blocks. With original thickness glass, use the 5/16 ribbon. With the thinner reproduction glass, you need the 3/8 ribbon, to ensure that your chrome trim fits properly.

I replaced ALL the glass in my 68SS recently, by myself, first time ever, no problems at all. Arm yourself with as much info as you can beforehand, and have at it. It really is not that difficult.

I'm just had mine installed by a local shop, windshield is low. Guy said "that is the best I could do without putting a big bead of urethane on and having ooze out the sides". Not sure what to do. Kinda bummed as it is 1/4 in or so below the molding...

-JR

I'm just had mine installed by a local shop, windshield is low. Guy said "that is the best I could do without putting a big bead of urethane on and having ooze out the sides". Not sure what to do. Kinda bummed as it is 1/4 in or so below the molding...

-JR

Then that guy needs a new job. Read my previous posts, never had a problem. Unfortunately if you paid him you'll most likely never get your money back or a decent job. Another thieving, unethical businessperson with no integrity. Find a better shop and ask for references. I don't suggest the use of butyl tape but if your cash is tight there is no reason a half wit cannot install glass with it. (Term used as an example only).

Then that guy needs a new job. Read my previous posts, never had a problem. Unfortunately if you paid him you'll most likely never get your money back or a decent job. Another thieving, unethical businessperson with no integrity. Find a better shop and ask for references. I don't suggest the use of butyl tape but if your cash is tight there is no reason a half wit cannot install glass with it. (Term used as an example only).

Yeah I did read your post, both before the install (one of the reasons I picked these guys, they seemed to get it), and again while they were installing and I saw the gap, just to refresh my memory :) ). They used urethane not the butyl tape. They worked on it a little (the trim wasn't seated all the way, which helped) and it got "better", only 1/16-1/8 gap, but the molding still doesn't sit on the glass. I called the shop and explained, they said if I wasn't happy they would work with me and re-install if necessary.. I'm thinkin' the molding should sit on the glass, yeah? shouldn't bee too much to ask...

Back window came out very nicely (but it was original glass, so a little thicker?)

Thx -JR

Good, then perhaps he will stand by his word. A prominent and wealthy man said it takes 20 years to build a reputation and 5 minutes to lose it. That glass will come out lightning fast and only cost him a tube of butter. And he'll get more business if he does it right.

When my guy does it I drop it in with him if I'm around. As soon as it touches the bead of urethane it's done. He lays out that bead dead on accurate thickness.

Scott, I feel your pain. I'm waiting for Spring before I remove my "recently installed windshield" and set it back at the right height. My molding is high a good 1/4 inch.

Scott, I feel your pain. I'm waiting for Spring before I remove my "recently installed windshield" and set it back at the right height. My molding is high a good 1/4 inch.
I don't have any glass pain, others do. I never had a problem. Anyway, good luck.

Use 5/16" on the rear glass.

Von: What thickness tape for front glass? I've got an aftermarket windshield ( never been installed ) for a 70 Chevelle that I am planning on putting in my 69 because it has the antenna in it. Also I know Napa sells the 3M stuff. Is one box sufficient to do the job?

Brad, I used 5/16" in front also. My Pilkington windshield measured the same as my original. One box will do one piece of glass.

Mike

Brad, Both of the '69 WS's I've installed from Auto City Classics needed 3/8" tape.

Well I guess I'm in luck then. If when I remove My original windshield it is the same thinkness as the replacement then I'll assume 5/16 is the proper thickness tape and if it is thinner then I'll jump up to 3/8 tape. By the way how can I confirm the windshield is original? Is it by glass brand or some other way?