I searched and didnt find anything that helped.

Heres the deal: This is a factory 12 bolt non posi unit, I have removed the Diff cover, the pin that runs through the carrier, slid the C-clips off, axels out, removed the bearing caps on either side of the diff..... now what? How do I get the actual carrier out? It is starting to get me annoyed so even if I get a response today it will probably be best if I dont touch it again until tomorrow.

Thanks,
Don

breaker bar or long screw driver and pry it out.
only way i get carriers out.

aaron

breaker bar or long screw driver and pry it out.
only way i get carriers out.

aaron

:yes: They can sometimes be a struggle. If both end don't come out evenly the carrier can be put into a bind. I did have a problem one time when the carrier wouldn't come out because I hadn't pulled one of the axles far enough out. D'oh.

The carrier bearings are supposed to have some preload on them, so it should be hard to get out. I believe the preload should be .007 to .010 of shim. You can use a prybar and insert the end (barely) into one of the carrier openings and pry against the bottom of the housing.

I put a bar behind a ring gear bolt at the top and one at the bottom and pry against the housing where the cover bolts on. Be sure that you get it tight again when you put it back in.

Thanks for all the replies, I (obviously) havent done one of these before. How do I ensure the new one I put in is that tight? Seems like I will have to hammer on it or somthing?

You are going to need shims to set the backlash and bearing preload. The original shims are not going to be right. Put the left shim in place with the differential and then tap the right shim in with a small hammer. I have a tool that I use to do this. You are also going to need a dial indicator with a magnetic base to check the backlash. You must measure the backlash before you remove the original differential so that you will know how to set it when you put in the new differential.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19773&highlight=install+posi
Read this and you will understand better.

BGH, Man! Thank you very much for the guidance! I will get back to it tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again.

Here's a tip for you on what might be a possible safety issue:

The times that I did ring & pinion gear changes (one time was on my back. Not fun) I used a small prybar, with a flat piece of wood between the prybar and the rear cover gasket surface, in order to pry out the carrier. But I noticed that once the carrier is free, the force you're placing on the prybar sends the carrier flying out at you right at your face!(atleast when you're doing it on your back anyway).

So the method that I used since then, is to back the cap bolts out all the way, but leave all four of them threaded in their holes just one or 2 turns, so that when you're prying the carrier, and it let's go and comes out, it is still held up loosely by the four cap bolts and the caps. Once the carrier is free and ready to come out, I hold it in place with one hand while I remove the four cap bolts and the left and right caps with the other. ;)

Good idea! One trouble saver I've also leaned is to, after removing the C clips and axles, is to put the cross shaft and bolt back in before removing the carrier. Prevents the pinion/side gear shims from falling out or getting loose in the carrier. They are a PAIN to get back in place.

and you did mark your carrier caps for left and right, right, lol

Here's a tip for you on what might be a possible safety issue:

The times that I did ring & pinion gear changes (one time was on my back. Not fun) I used a small prybar, with a flat piece of wood between the prybar and the rear cover gasket surface, in order to pry out the carrier. But I noticed that once the carrier is free, the force you're placing on the prybar sends the carrier flying out at you right at your face!(atleast when you're doing it on your back anyway).

So the method that I used since then, is to back the cap bolts out all the way, but leave all four of them threaded in their holes just one or 2 turns, so that when you're prying the carrier, and it let's go and comes out, it is still held up loosely by the four cap bolts and the caps. Once the carrier is free and ready to come out, I hold it in place with one hand while I remove the four cap bolts and the left and right caps with the other. ;)
Ah, good tip from teh voice of experience, thanks very much! BTW, doing it on my back too :thumbsup:

and you did mark your carrier caps for left and right, right, lol
Yes I did:yes:

When you get the carrier out measure all the shims from both sides and add them together, that is the total you will need when you put it back in.
Ron

When you get the carrier out measure all the shims from both sides and add them together, that is the total you will need when you put it back in.
Ron

Actually this brings up another question. Does this apply if I am changing carrier? because thats the main idea with this project, I am putting an Eaton posi, took out a one legger..

The Eaton will be different. You will be starting from scratch. Are you getting bearings and shims with it? You need to. Where are you getting it?

The Eaton will be different. You will be starting from scratch. Are you getting bearings and shims with it? You need to. Where are you getting it?

Got it from summitt, also got an install kit with shims, I had the bearings seals and axels replaced when I did the 4 wheel disk brake kit install, about 8 mos ago. I think the kit has marking paint in it, I thought I would have to start from all new but I actually took the lash measurements just so i could see how it was done.

The Eaton will be different but I use what ever came out as a starting point for the new one and adjust as needed. After all, you have to start somewhere.

and you did mark your carrier caps for left and right, right, lol

So, I marked my caps, but is there an inside and outside? looks like there is, but how do you tell?

Yes there is an inside and outside. Some caps have a small tab that sticks out on one side of the cap. That always goes to the outside. If it doesn't have the tab then look at the edge of the cap. One side has more of a curve on one side than the other. The curve goes to the outside. I hope you didn't use a punch or a chisel on the left bearing cap. The left cap is loaded more than the right cap and a punch mark will cause a stress point on the cap and will make it weaker. I only mark the right cap. There is no need to mark them both, and never mark the cap in the center. Always mark in on the end outside of the bolt where the stress is the least.

Nah, when I took the caps off, I used a wire tag for each and wrote on it which side. Good tip, though.

Thought I would update you all. I got it out using a long extension in teh top and a prybar in the bottom. I put the caps back on so it wouldnt drop on my head or anythign and it came out with some effort. I guess the next most logical question is how do I get the new one in? should I support it underneath with somthing as I square it up and get it in? I didnt notice notches or anything on the insides of the differential so I was trying to figure this out.

Use the thin shim that you have now and put it on the left side. Put the differential in with this shim. Use a small screwdriver on the right side to pry the bearing race tight against the bearing. Use yor left hand th rock the differential back and forth to see how much backlash you have. If you don't have any then use a thinner shim on the left. If you have too much then use a thicker shim. When the backlash "feels" about right then start working on the right side. start with a shim that will fit in by hand and work your way up until the shim has to be tapped in with a small hammer. If you can pull the differential out by hand then it isn't tight enough. When you get it tight then put the caps on and check the backlash. You will have to remove everything to make backlash adjustments, but you will just be moving shim from one side to the other. The total thickness of the shims will not change. When the backlash is right then you can finish the installation.

Use the thin shim that you have now and put it on the left side. Put the differential in with this shim. Use a small screwdriver on the right side to pry the bearing race tight against the bearing. Use yor left hand th rock the differential back and forth to see how much backlash you have. If you don't have any then use a thinner shim on the left. If you have too much then use a thicker shim. When the backlash "feels" about right then start working on the right side. start with a shim that will fit in by hand and work your way up until the shim has to be tapped in with a small hammer. If you can pull the differential out by hand then it isn't tight enough. When you get it tight then put the caps on and check the backlash. You will have to remove everything to make backlash adjustments, but you will just be moving shim from one side to the other. The total thickness of the shims will not change. When the backlash is right then you can finish the installation.

Thanks B.G.H.!
Just dropped the eaton unit off at Barneys Performance to have the bearings pressed on. Grabbing a sammich and going back to pick it up.:thumbsup:

Be sure that the bearings are completely seated. I have seen some shops that pressed the bearings on until the press bottomed out on the bearing journal, but the bearing was not seated all the way. If the bearing is not seated then you are going to have big problems later on.

Be sure that the bearings are completely seated. I have seen some shops that pressed the bearings on until the press bottomed out on the bearing journal, but the bearing was not seated all the way. If the bearing is not seated then you are going to have big problems later on.

10-4 I will be sure to check them.:thumbsup:

What are teh ring gear bolt torque specs? I got them on at 40# right now but they were harder than that to take off.......

GOT IT from an old BGH post, 45 lbs! Boo YAH!

'Nother update; Got the bearings pressed on, ring gear on and bolts torqued to 45#s, got the carrier back in the differential, installed original shims and the lash measured out to .013 so I stopped right there, axels in, C-clips installed, bearing caps torqued to 70#s . Should be able to get it buttoned up Saturday. Do need to get a new cover gasket and gear oil though. Then button it up:thumbsup:

Have you used the marking paint to "read" your pattern.
I don't think you are finished just yet.
read this...


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294794

david

Have you used the marking paint to "read" your pattern.
I don't think you are finished just yet.
read this...


http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294794

david


Well....Short answer is 'no', long answer is; Since I didnt change the gears I didnt think I had to, still not too late, I didnt get a chance to put the cover on today because I got caught up doing other things.

.013 backlash sounds like too much unless that's what it measured before removal (hope you measured it then). Normally in the .008-.010 range for new gears. Post pics of the marking compound here so the pros can give advice. Turn the ring gear with an axle or ring gear bolts, don't turn it by using the pinion.

.013 backlash sounds like too much unless that's what it measured before removal (hope you measured it then). Normally in the .008-.010 range for new gears. Post pics of the marking compound here so the pros can give advice. Turn the ring gear with an axle or ring gear bolts, don't turn it by using the pinion.

The gears arent new, my best guess they are about the same age as the car. I actually did measured the lash before I took the carrier out and it was more like .018-020. Not sure when i will be able to get to teh gear pattern but I will do it before I call it 'finished' and post up the pics.

Another tidbit I found out is that this car doesnt have 3:73s like teh seller told me, it has 3:31s, this will force me to rethink my 489 with more low end torque than I had planned before. No biggie I guess.

.010 to .012 is usually normal for used gears. Your .018 to .020 measurement might have been becasue the pinion moved slightly when you checked it. If the pinion moves the slightest amount then the measurement will not be accurate. Checking the contact pattern isn't improtant becasue you didn't disturb the pinion gear, but it won't hurt to check it. Most of the time used gears will not give a good pattern on the drive side anyway.