how to get drum spindle off upper control arm? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: how to get drum spindle off upper control arm?


lincoln31
Feb 14th, 05, 10:38 PM
Well, I've read the archived disc brake conversion posts for the last few months and am now in the process of taking off the drum rotors, spindles, etc. I did the thing where you loosen the nuts that attach the spindle to the control arms, then smack it with a hammer to allow the spring pressure to loosen the ball joint. It worked for the lower control arm and I lowered it all the way down after removing the shock. However, I can't get the spindle to come off the upper ball joint bolt. I have struck the drum rotor with a small sledge, but it won't come off. Is there where I need to use a pry fork? If I do that, will I have to replace the upper ball joint? I guess I don't see what is holding the spindle on there. Is the ball joint bolt that goes through the spindle pressed in there? Learning as I go, thanks!

Rick Bandy
Feb 14th, 05, 11:07 PM
You often need to use a pickle fork to get it off. You can rent them but they are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight. I had to use one yesterday twice.

DG
Feb 15th, 05, 11:14 AM
I try to loosen the UPPER nut on the ball joint first and let the coil spring help when I use a pickle for to pop the upper ball joint.

I leave the upper joint loose (with the nut still on the stud) then do the lower one.

Only then do I chain up the coil spring, and lower the lower control arm.

The way you are now, it's pickle fork and BFH time. You can sometimes get more effect by placing another big hammer (3 lb sledge) on the other side of the spindle and smack it with the hammer on the pickle fork between the ball joint and the spindle.

I think it redirects some of the energy back when you smack it.

Olle
Feb 15th, 05, 3:37 PM
I never use pickle forks, as they can damage the rubber boot on the ball joint. Don't know if this is what you already tried, but my favorite method is to loosen the nut a turn or two and lower the jack so the spring is pulling on the ball joint. Then I hold a sledge hammer tightly against the left side (right where the ball joint stud goes through the spindle), and use the BFH to give it a good blow on the right side. It usually pops right out after a couple of whacks. It takes some good aim though smile.gif

Peter F.
Feb 15th, 05, 9:27 PM
Try hitting both sides of the spindle at the same time with 2 heavy hammers. I get much better results doing this than just holding a hammer on one side and hitting the other side. It requires co-ordination to make contact on both sides at the same time.

Just hit on the end of the joint if you're changing it.

Peter

lincoln31
Feb 15th, 05, 11:17 PM
Thanks guys. I got it off today by re-attaching the lower control arm to the spindle, thereby putting spring pressure on it and then hitting it with the sledge. However, I first tried using a pickle fork, which completely ruined the ball joint!
My mistake yesterday was unbolting and lowering the lower control arm, releasing all the spring pressure before I had the upper one separated.
Hopefully the other side will go more smoothly..

DG
Feb 16th, 05, 6:09 AM
Upper ball joints are cheap. Besides, it's an ideal time to replace both anyway, That's why pickle fork forgo the damage part.