I am having problems with my '70 round amp gauge not working.

I have tried to follow the wiring diagrams in my Chiltons, GM assembly manual, and GM service manual for the round amp dash gauge with no luck.

I have followed the "16 BRN" wire back to the voltage regulator, but I can not figure out were the "20 P" wire from the gauge goes too???:confused::pout::confused:

IF it's like my 70, there should be a black & black/white stripe.
One goes to the BAT terminal on the horn relay and one goes to the stud terminal on the radiator support, behind the passenger's side headlight.

The brown and pink wires go to the gen light with the pink one being hot when the key is on. The gauge uses the black and black/white wires.

Are you installing an original gauge set into an original gauge car? If you're converting idiot light dash to gauge dash, they use a different wiring harness. Here's link on how to modify the original harness (look at response #4)

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148821&highlight=Gauge+conversion

Are you installing an original gauge set into an original gauge car? If you're converting idiot light dash to gauge dash, they use a different wiring harness. Here's link on how to modify the original harness (look at response #4)

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148821&highlight=Gauge+conversion

The brown and pink wires go to the gen light with the pink one being hot when the key is on. The gauge uses the black and black/white wires.

Dave and Robert, I trying to figure out why my gauge is not working.

The amp gauge is stock, in a stock round gauge car. I am trying to find every thing in the circut that may cause gauge to not work. This is a last resort before pulling the dash.

Could the printed circuit board be bad?

Could the printed circuit board be bad?

It may be, but I want to rule out all the components that is between the gauge and its amp source or sources, before the "MIGHTY" dash pull.

It may be, but I want to rule out all the components that is between the gauge and its amp source or sources, before the "MIGHTY" dash pull.

I've been putting that off for months. You first.:)

Dave and Robert, I trying to figure out why my gauge is not working.

The amp gauge is stock, in a stock round gauge car. I am trying to find every thing in the circut that may cause gauge to not work. This is a last resort before pulling the dash.

What's the resistance between the black and black/white wires? It should be around a couple hundred ohms, which is the coil resistance of the meter.

I've been putting that off for months. You first.:)

It is defently one of those winter projects!!!

I have installed both engine harnesses (new) and hooked-up every thing but the TCS relay and switch.

Could these items be in the circut, causing amp gauge to not work???

I guess I am looking at the wrong page in the GM service manual (116" W.B. Station Wagon and Monte Carlo) but when I looked at the page (Instrument Panel--Monte Carlo and Chevelle SS) it looked like they were talking about idiot lights and not gauges???

What's the resistance between the black and black/white wires? It should be around a couple hundred ohms, which is the coil resistance of the meter.

Does the black and black/white stripe wires start at??? The gauge's printed circut board connector???

Do the go straight from this point to the fire wall bulkhead/ fuse box???

Then they go and terminate to what components???

My GM service manual is not showing SS models with gauges, just idiot light models.

I am having problems with my '70 round amp gauge not working.
First, how did you determine that the gauge is not working.
Does the black and black/white stripe wires start at??? The Gage's printed circuit board connector???

Do the go straight from this point to the fire wall bulkhead/ fuse box???

Then they go and terminate to what components???

My GM service manual is not showing SS models with gauges, just idiot light models.

The amp gauge wires should be 16g black and 16g black w/white stripe. They start at the PCB connector, to firewall bulkhead connector (FWD lamp harness). From there, the black w/white stripe goes to the "main"splice". The black goes to the junction block on rad support. (see pic) The pic below doesn't show it, but both wires turn to orange (which is the fusible link) just before they reach there final connection points.

To test the wiring, disconnect the battery, remove just the orange wire from the junction block, (be sure it doesn't touch ground) reconnect the other 2 wires to junction block and reconnect battery, does the orange wire have power?

Could the printed circuit board be bad?
If the disconnected orange wire doesn't have power, the circuit is open. It was common for the PCB to melt before the fusible links did, which is why many of these gauges quit working.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/Chevy_old_with_amp_gauge.jpg

Greg, I can't thank you enough!!!:beers::beers::beers:

This was exactly what I was looking for!!!:hurray:

It is people like you, that truely makes Team Chevelle the greatest web site!!!:thumbsup::D:thumbsup: