I'm not looking for a beating, I've given myself plenty over the years for getting so close and then letting this car fall into such a sad, sad condition.

Too many career distractions, plus getting a brunette stuck in my eye that required extensive wallet surgery to relieve excessive marital pressure.

The car is a '67 SS, factory a/c, 4-speed, buckets & console, butternut over black, PW discs, tilt, FM, tinted windows, gauge cluster and blinker tach. I replaced the original engine when it spun a rod bearing with less than 75k on the odometer, I'm going on memory on that one.

The replacement was a 375 horse that was completely rebuilt by a local engine builder, installed and driven about 3000-miles. There was nothing wrong with the engine, I just didn't know the condition as it was from a parked car. I shake my head when I think of sending that car to the crusher after I stripped it, and how many would welcome the challenge today.

The original '67 transmission remains in this car. I think I can find the original engine. I can't remember if the differential is original, but I think it is since I pulled the stump puller out after a few weeks with the fresh engine.

I am told the engine is from a '69, but I pulled it from a '66.

I really am long past ready to let go, so it's not a sentimental thing at this point. I've wasted far too much time with blue-skyers, and rude saviors. My elderly Mom has put up with too much crap over the years as well. I would just like to figure out the best way to move this on to appreciative parties.

Should I offer it just put it on Ebay complete with a reasonable reserve and let it rip? A reserve that would encourage the auction? Not some bogus hidden reserve, but a reserve under the base value of the vehicle that draws and keeps bidder's interest.

Assuming I can locate it, should I offer it with the original, minus the 375, with the 375 as a second auction to end within a few hours of the car. That would give the person who wants this engine for a similar era vehicle to purchase it.

Should I sell any extra parts separately or let them go with the car? Is that one of the elusive steering wheels on the ground or in the car?

Obviously, I'd like to maximize the value, but I always want a buyer to be happier purchasing from me than I am selling. Strange I know, but I have a good reputation in several fields that has never been for sale. I am in a position to extend a post purchase inspection with refund for reasonable cause if that helps satisfy the mind of a potential purchaser.

Should I do anything about freshening it up. Maybe inflate the tires and clean the inside and out? I hate the idea of polishing a turd, but don't want it to be overlooked and undervalued because of the appearance.

It's not a desperation situation, but time to move on if the market is reasonable.

Please be gentle, life has granted me some incredible views from the tops of some very difficult peaks, many of which boiled away the years when I should have done right by this car. I'd just as soon not relive those uphill struggles.

I'd really like to get an idea of fair value for the combinations I've suggested and I certainly welcome others.

I'll try to attach some pics and a link to an online album. If the photos are too big or too many or out of compliance, I'll gladly correct the errors.

Thanks in advance,

Rick


http://picasaweb.google.com/RakedCycles/Chevelle1967#5082789348824330082 http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Jij0_iuFMiClI8HCJ1Mj2A?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LQLWqfbr08c8FNoE-zSnvQ?feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DrPONZXq78PxwOUZkayI2A?feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/RakedCycles/Chevelle1967#

The car is not restoration material, but there are some valuable parts and pieces.
Sell the car whole!! I think it might surprise you $$$$ in what it would bring on Ebay as a whole car. Seen worse bring crazy money, and that car has some nice options (VALUABLE OPTIONS)!!! I am sure you will be getting PM messages from people here who are going to want a part or two, I say EBAY and get every penny out of it WHOLE.

What a dumb a$$ you are.. how could you let a Real SS car go to hell like that.. you should be ashamed!! :D:D:D:D

LOL.. just kidding of course.. .. why are you being so hard on yourself? sheesh.. it's a car.. bottom line, you are ready to part with it and that's all that matters :yes:

I say, get all the money you can! and the best way to do that is EBAY it.. include EVERYTHING!! both engines if you can locate the other, but don't kill yourself doing so.. all parts, etc.. if the tires will hold air.. have at it.. if you can polish that turd in any way.. go for it.. presentation is everything in this world :) but again, don't kill yourself...

DON'T sell anything separately .. as was said.. the PM's and emails are coming as we speak... but don't do it!! You will get the most bang for your sale with everything despite nice offers and begging!! We all see the valuable parts.. from the interior ( minus the wood grain dash ) to certain engine bay items which some would love to have.. to the bumpers and Rear and Trans.... well.. you see what I mean.. one man's junk is another man's treasure.. it's almost a convertible at this point, so maybe someone pay even more for it !! LOL

So, that $64,000 question.. what to sell it for.. ?? aim high.. you can always come down, but can never negotiate up.. though once I actually did that.. long story!!

Reserve High.. use these pics.. add a TRIM TAG and VIN TAG pic.

How high? I won't say.. I mean after all.. maybe I want it and will price myself out of range :D.. NOT

It's not a $3,000 sale..:noway:

Thanks for the rapid responses. I probably wasn't clear in my rambling confession/thrashing. I'm really trying to figure out a decent reserve to set, with the option to refund a very low deposit upon inspection. I'd rather eat the buck fifty in fees than have the hassle of haggling and disagreeing over money.

I appreciate all opinions, but my first paying job was about 400-feet from the spot the car now sits, sweeping the garage of one of the best body men around according to the old-timers of the 60's.

And how would I say this? The area had a number of shops that were quite creative in the building of Thunder Road tankers pursued by the G-men as well as rebuilding cars that disappeared from one town and reappeared in another area ready for sell, they were called magic in the day, or a couple of salvage buys. Those old boys could clip that car overnight, some of them could even locate the donor clip after midnight and have her ready for paint by daylight.

I'm honestly interested in why it would not qualify as rebuildable, I'm not sure of the contemporary meaning of restorable, so I'll assume that it's not.

I won't bust it up into separate sales transactions, that would be too difficult to deal with for a variety of reasons, although I would really like to know if either wheel belongs to that $4000.00 wood specie as I ran across a post war Ariel thumper that would look real good in the stable and this year's toy run.

The only reason I'd split the engine out of the auction is to allow someone to buy an engine that matches their '69, assuming I was told correctly? I did find a an oval port engine that's set out for years, but I don't think that's the original engine, it's a muddabber's condo by now anyway.

The bees will be in hibernation by the time I go back home for Thanksgiving so I can search for the engine and get any additional pics then. I guess that gets my bee allergies out in public. What about the tranny and diff, should I photograph the numbers?

I'll also pull the extra parts and see if the consoles and radios are still in the attic and decide what to do with them once they're identified and the car is ready for sale. So to be clear, there's no parting our the car. I don't have time and the parts and cars deserve better. If I'd have gotten this kind of help years ago, the car would been sold a long time ago. I'm willing to provide whatever anyone needs as far as personal references to know that the car and I are both for real.

Todd, Mike, I appreciate your prompt responses and honesty, although I'm a little disappointed neither of you jumped on the Hillman wagon :)

Rick

If you put the car on eBay with NO reserve, starting at $1, you will be amazed at the action and the final bid.
Put up as much photo and print info you can concerning the options, numbers, true condition and let it rip.
If you can locate the original engine block, it would definitely help the final total.
Believe in the free market.
Dan

Cool pictures.
Lots to learn from them.
And........valuable parts as mentioned.
4 speed console, blinker tach, gauges, seats, AC dash, radio, steering wheel, etc.
Good stuff under the hood also such as engine, brackets, radiator, remote PS res., etc.
Interesting that the bucket seat bottoms have the trim the color of the interior and not chrome as the seat back does.
That was a conversation on another thread.
Also interesting that the car sure appears as an original SS yet has the wood grain dash strip. What's that all about.
Best of luck with your sale. I am sure it will sell.
Be sad if someone else buys it and parts it out, which might happen.
Lots of stuff there. If you had the time, I wouldn't doubt that you would get more $$$ by auctioning parts off.
Love to have that radio..........can't find mine but I have it somewhere or it growed legs and walked off. :mad:

"Halloween Special" complete with spider webs!:hurray:

off topic - but there's that woodgrain dash strip again in an SS car. WTF? Does anyone have any info that they may have been substituted when the factory ran short of the black ones?

I'm looking for pics of the cowl plate as I know that I took at least one when I took the first of these pics.

I'll have to look at the dash pics again, I know much of the history of the car, but can't remember whether we added the wood to the dash or not, unless that was a common swap in the shag carpet era? Was that a Malibu piece or something from a wagon?

Same for the seat chrome/black. Was that a standard on another car of that era? This wasn't my only '66-'67.

I think you guys will appreciate that I spoke with the dumbass owner's elderly Mother this morning and she remembered where the wheel rings and center pieces are stored in the cellar. There should be a couple of FM radios in her attic that I'll search out over Thanksgiving. I also have a blinker tach with me here at home, so the treasure hunt continues.

She said it was a real shame that I didn't get with you guys before the car deteriorated.

For all the folks that are PMing with questions about the price, please understand that I will not set a price and I will not sell this through a private sale. I simply do not have the knowledge to fairly price the car for a private transaction. It would also be unfair to the honest people who inquired over the years and were rejected out of my family's bottom feeder fatigue.

Most importantly, it would be unethical to seek guidance on this forum in order to negotiate a private sale. The guys who are making the effort to determine the best way put this one back on the market deserve the opportunity to buy it. Sorry to be so blunt.

Thanks,

Rick

I am curious to know too why the car is not restoration material. I am doing a frame off on a 67 136 car. If anything it is not restoration material but it is still a Chevelle and will be an awesome car when done. However a 67 138 car, factory 4 speed, bucket seats with the option to attain the orinally 396 so that the numbers match? I would take that car in any condition. With the parts that are available for these cars now, that car is absolutely worth restoring! Keep it all together and don't part out a thing!

I really appreciate the posts, this is what I was hoping for. I will search out everything that I have that didn't sprout legs and run and put together a list with photos.

If we can identify it as not specific to the car, I'll sell those parts separately, the blinker tach, FM radios, manifolds, consoles, shifters, etc. I remember having all those items but won't know until I go searching.

Love the Halloween special idea, too funny!

Rick

Since I'm a new member asking so much, if there be any doubts about this, I'll be glad to provide phone numbers and references to the moderators and trusted members. That whole outing thing really spooked me the other day out of concern for my elderly Mother. I want to avoid a repeat of that scenario.

Looks restorable to me as well, especially if you have the original engine. Not everyday that you come across a matching numbers 67 ss 4 speed with air and lots of options.

I would clean up the car, find the original engine and sell it all in one auction.

FWIW.. I believe only one person thus far said it was not restorable.. .. there are wayy to many unknowns at this point.. especially the condition of the frame and other areas of RUST.. does look like it will need a Roof Transplant.. and the Co-pay on those are high...

would need to know how bad the floors are, trunk, frame, and every other piece of metal..... which is why at this point we can only make bad guesses at what it is worth?

so, you just don't deal with it.. put it on ebay.. set reserve at $9500 and see where it goes.. anybody who buys the car sight unseen will be doing it for the parts, but if someone is thinking they might restore it.. you had better go see it!

I'm looking for pics of the cowl plate as I know that I took at least one when I took the first of these pics.

I'll have to look at the dash pics again, I know much of the history of the car, but can't remember whether we added the wood to the dash or not, unless that was a common swap in the shag carpet era? Was that a Malibu piece or something from a wagon?


The wood-grain dash strip is called for in all Malibu series 1967 Chevelles, be it coupe, sedan, convertible, wagon, or pickup. So many of these have been gone over by past owners it's really hard to say whether any wood-grained dash strips slipped out on SS396 Chevelles from the factory or not. I know a 67 SS396 I purchased years ago had the wood-grain dash and I've seen several others as well. Mine also had a small block and a 4-speed from a 69 model year so it obviously had someone's hand in it at least one occasion. :D

Unfortunately, nobody I've spoken to was the original owner of any of the SS396 cars with Malibu dash strips so it's still an ongoing discussion. I have talked to a couple that said they replaced the black strip with the wood-grain just because the liked the wood-grain better.

Given there's no real physical difference between a Malibu dash and an SS396 dash if someone misread the information and queued an assembled Malibu dash in lieu of a SS396 dash, would Chevrolet have pulled the car off the line at that point and pretty much screw up the rest of the subassemblies in the assembly queue for not only that car but others following? I doubt it. A plant might very well have let the car go though assembly with the intention of fixing it before it got out the door but an inspector might have ok'd it if it was a dealer-stock car. Lots of possible scenarios...

Would someone have intentionally substituted a Malibu dash strip for a SS396 strip simply because they might be out of the SS396 strip? That I would question. If parts weren't in inventory when the car was scheduled for assembly, it problably wouldn't be started until those parts were on hand. Many customer ordered cars took longer than normal to build due to shortage of specific parts; the factory didn't partially build the car with what they had and then hoped the required parts came in soon.

I was the one that said it was not restoration material. In my book it is not, but anything is possible. I see valuable parts and donor pieces. The car is not special enough to warrant the amount of bodywork and money that car needs to bring it back. If it was a numbers matching car or say it was a little more rare or something unusual then that might be a different story, All I see is a rusty non-numbers car that the restoration costs might exceed the value of the car. I am not interested in saving them all. I prefer my project cars a little cleaner. You guys would cry over the cars I have parted out if this one looks restorable to you. That car is still VERY VALUABLE, and I agree with Mikes statement about the where to set the reserve and let it roll.

As others have said I would sell it whole on Ebay and see how it goes. As for reserve I would lower it a little as to get a first bid and then hope it hits what others think its worth say $7500. As to the question of if it's restorable to me the roof is the worst part and could be replaced without much problem but I'd be worried about where the water went after it passed through the wholes; there could be bad rust on the floors and everywhere else caused by the moister. Good luck on the sale.

I'll do some serious investigation into the dash strip in a few weeks. After talking with a retired friend from Ford, I would believe in the power of substitution, although I'm fairly sure this car was ordered for stock.

I will write the Ebay ad so that no one is buying a pig in a poke, like I mentioned, I'd rather eat a couple of the Ebay fees than have anyone unhappy with their purchase.

What do I need in the way of photographs and documentation to clear the unknowns, like the frame, concealed rust, etc? Should I do a video and poke around with an ice pick? Pull back the carpet? Put it on a lift? Pay for an independent inspection?

I don't mind spending money to get the true condition of the car out even if it costs me in the long run.

When this is all over, we should discuss the bottom feeder offers to save this one for posterity. I think you'd be shocked.

Can't thank you all enough,

Rick

I will write the Ebay ad so that no one is buying a pig in a poke, like I mentioned, I'd rather eat a couple of the Ebay fees than have anyone unhappy with their purchase.

Rick,
Lots of photos, and an honest description is all you need. That car will sell itself.
I think anybody who is serious about the car will know what they are getting into from the photos. The Bottom feeders will start the bidding at low prices hoping to score the rare and valuable parts for resale. The serious bidders who know what they see will be the guys bidding in the end. I imagine there will be a bidding war in the last few minutes on this car. You will also get MANY replies asking for a "buy it now" price or "how much $$ to end the auction early" questions. Most of those guys are in the bottom feeders category. But there may be somebody that wants it bad enough to make a REAL offer that is worthy of a buy it now price. Plus entertaining offers can be well...entertaining. Don't build the car up to be anything other then what it is. Depending on how many years ago you bought this car, you might be into it cheap enough to where you will come out ahead. I for one am glad you posted this here on the Chevelle site. It is nice to see some of these cars that have been out of commission for long periods of time being brought out into the sun light to get new life or give new life to somebody else's project or dream car.
You will do fine.

Rick,
Lots of photos, and an honest description is all you need. That car will sell itself.
I think anybody who is serious about the car will know what they are getting into from the photos. The Bottom feeders will start the bidding at low prices hoping to score the rare and valuable parts for resale. The serious bidders who know what they see will be the guys bidding in the end. I imagine there will be a bidding war in the last few minutes on this car. You will also get MANY replies asking for a "buy it now" price or "how much $$ to end the auction early" questions. Most of those guys are in the bottom feeders category. But there may be somebody that wants it bad enough to make a REAL offer that is worthy of a buy it now price. Plus entertaining offers can be well...entertaining. Don't build the car up to be anything other then what it is. Depending on how many years ago you bought this car, you might be into it cheap enough to where you will come out ahead. I for one am glad you posted this here on the Chevelle site. It is nice to see some of these cars that have been out of commission for long periods of time being brought out into the sun light to get new life or give new life to somebody else's project or dream car.
You will do fine.

Well said!!!
Be sure to post pics of the good highly sought after items . Gauges, tach, steering wheel, 12 bolt rear, engine stampings, interior pieces, etc.
The body speaks for itself and will not be the selling point.
People will also ask you about the trim tag and the VIN tag. Yikes.
The pic's will speak for themselves.
People bidding know what they are getting.

No idea what it's worth but I would definately say it's fixable? How's the bottom of the doors? Got to love the vinyl top cars. :( Sell it as a whole & count your losses, Keep track of the vin # as it might show up in a month or two on a malibu. :sad:

LK

I would love to have that car. What neat options! I would say it could bring $7,000 as is.

That car is VERY restorable...

Look at the pictures and tell me what you dont see...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_65XUtp9jtp8/RomyIaTQL9I/AAAAAAAAAJk/4ImGCPi5rFg/s1024/DSCF0148.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_65XUtp9jtp8/RomyAKTQL3I/AAAAAAAAAI0/EkbZg9ENHpE/s1024/DSCF0142.JPG

Besides the moulding/pinstripe on the drivers side and not on the passengers...

the bottoms of all the panels arent to far gone...

Yes it needs a roof...

How are the floors?

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_65XUtp9jtp8/RomyU6TQMFI/AAAAAAAAAKk/syp6q1jvQ0o/s640/DSCF0156.JPG

Actually dont look to bad...:noway:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_65XUtp9jtp8/RomyvKTQMTI/AAAAAAAAAMU/P6Bhld0PMzU/s640/DSCF0170.JPG

Looks like the "under gas pedal rot" but nothing most here havent had already...

There are allot of good parts on this car...

I wouldnt be surprised if it goes higher then you think...

As far as the parts go...

If that motor is from a 69..I would think about finding the number on the stamp pad and finding out what it goes to...it may belong to a member here...so that motor is worth some to the right person...

If you could get the original motor you would be in even better shape...

I would clean it up, vaccuum, wax (yes wax it but not the roof :D), clean the spider webs and dust off, armor all the seats and interior and the tires...place or put the pieces back in the correct areas or even install them...overall the car will look more complete if people see the parts and not empty spots where parts go...

I would also jack it up and look over the frame and take pictures of all the areas that you can...put some on ebay and keep the rest ready for the emails your going to receive...or just post them like you did on Picasa and point people there.

The more presentable you make that car the better the $$$ you will get...

wax (yes wax it but not the roof :D) armor all the seats and interior and the tires

Nope.
I agree with cleaning, vacuuming, and making presentable.
Wax and Armor-All, - No!
That car is going to bring good money without that nonsense.

(might as well advise him to spray paint the underside then too) ;)

*

I'm getting really good information here, I like the way you guys look out for the sport, and not a bit of the selfishness we see on other forums. I hangout at some bike forums that could take lessons from you guys.

I assume the engine number in the big isn't enough to determine the vintage? As I mentioned, there was one guy who told me it was a '69 but offered no verification outside his statement. That brings back the question of pulling the engine if turns out that it belongs to another car. Am I correct in assuming these are VIN specific, not just production week specific and that this engine matches up to another Chevelle by VIN?

I'll plan on getting it up on a lift for inspection and photos; and maybe leave it at the shop so potential buyers can inspect it out of the weather since winter is coming on strong.

Should I run the Ebay auction an extended period to give serious parties the chance to travel to inspect prior to closing, or does the
as described" back out that I proposed enough?

Thanks again,

Rick

I'll try to get it inside

The engine block casting number picture you show appears to be a '69 casting. The stamp pad at the pass. side head will have two sets of numbers, the first will indicate the date assembled and the engine suffix (hp, mt or auto), the second will be the vin#.

The roof is going to scare the bejeezus out of most guys but other than that based on what I see that car is salvageable. Be sure to check those number on the engine pad because you may have a golden egg there and don't realize it.

Good luck,
Steve

That's why I was asking about auctioning the car minus engine and then have another auction for the engine. If it can be reunited to its rightful place, and the original engine for my car can be located, it could turn out to be the best for all parties.

That would be an insane stroke of luck worthy of a Family Channel movie if the engine could go home after all these years.

Thanks,

Rick

Looks like a pretty rare car to me . Complete side stripe on one side and nothing on the other.

That's why I was asking about auctioning the car minus engine and then have another auction for the engine. If it can be reunited to its rightful place, and the original engine for my car can be located, it could turn out to be the best for all parties.

That would be an insane stroke of luck worthy of a Family Channel movie if the engine could go home after all these years.

Thanks,

Rick

If the engine is a real L78 than in my opinion it is worth pulling it out and selling/auctioning it seperate, but before we get ahead of ourselves I would check those numbers.

Steve

Looks like a pretty rare car to me . Complete side stripe on one side and nothing on the other.

Sorry, but I don't know what that means? If you're talking about the pinstripes, those were that cheezy tape. If that's it, I'll make sure to remove the one side when I'm prepping the car.

Thanks for your help,

Rick

If the engine is a real L78 than in my opinion it is worth pulling it out and selling/auctioning it seperate, but before we get ahead of ourselves I would check those numbers.

Steve

The engine has the pressure gauge port by the filter, 4-bolt mains, cross-drilled crank, rectangular port heads, aluminum Chevy intake as removed from the '66 donor. I'm going to talk to someone about taking some pics of the right side numbers instead of waiting until Thanksgiving.

I was thinking that I auction the car, and once it closes, I could offer the engine. I haven't really thought out the logistics and can't really work it out until searching out the car that matches the engine.

Can I assume the engine has significantly less value to anyone else? Unless he's an unmitigated horse's ass, I'd rather see the proper "owner" get the engine at the market price as long as the sum total of car and engine makes it worth the extra work. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks,

Rick

The engine has the pressure gauge port by the filter, 4-bolt mains, cross-drilled crank, rectangular port heads, aluminum Chevy intake as removed from the '66 donor. I'm going to talk to someone about taking some pics of the right side numbers instead of waiting until Thanksgiving.

I was thinking that I auction the car, and once it closes, I could offer the engine. I haven't really thought out the logistics and can't really work it out until searching out the car that matches the engine.

Can I assume the engine has significantly less value to anyone else? Unless he's an unmitigated horse's ass, I'd rather see the proper "owner" get the engine at the market price as long as the sum total of car and engine makes it worth the extra work. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks,

Rick

It would be nice to match the engine back up to it's original car but in reality thats like a needle in a heystack possibility. You can offer it whole initially but in the end you will probably do better parting it out. You are going to get 1,001 different opinions on "what it's worth", some guys will say it's just a worthless hunk of cast iron to anything other than the original car, blah, blah... Bottom line if it is an original 4-bolt block it is valuable, the heads are probably the most valuable part, the original intakes bring good money, the carb could be as well if it's not an over the counter unit and dimple rods are in demand also.

As far as the sidestripes go I wouldn't remove the other side, like was said earlier, don't attempt to doctor it up, leave it as is.

Good luck,
Steve

It would be nice to match the engine back up to it's original car but in reality thats like a needle in a heystack possibility. You can offer it whole initially but in the end you will probably do better parting it out. You are going to get 1,001 different opinions on "what it's worth", some guys will say it's just a worthless hunk of cast iron to anything other than the original car, blah, blah... Bottom line if it is an original 4-bolt block it is valuable, the heads are probably the most valuable part, the original intakes bring good money, the carb could be as well if it's not an over the counter unit and dimple rods are in demand also.

As far as the sidestripes go I wouldn't remove the other side, like was said earlier, don't attempt to doctor it up, leave it as is.

Good luck,
Steve

I figured it was important if someone takes the time to point it out, and it's just the tape on product, so should remove easily. And if it was a facetious question, I'd like to get prepared for those before the flood of questions from the Ebay shoppers.

If I can get the block numbers engine, is there a registry or some way of trying to locate the original car? Does this type of thread get enough attention to make that kind of connection.

One thing I forgot to mention, the cam and lifters were switched to a hydraulic setup with a lick similar to the solid lifter version.

Thanks,

Rick

Tough decision. It is definitely worth a good bit. It is, however a car that is way past my ability to restore. However, it does seem quite restorable by the hard (er) core, with the only problems being the roof and window channel areas.

I would go with keep it together, and see what gets the most interest, the car alone, or the car and the orig motor, etc.

For comparision, in 06 I sold a 39 Crosley on ebay that had been cut down into a tractor in the 50's, and, as I said in the ad, ran when parked in 1963, and was in outside storage since then... Drivetrain would not turn when tried.

Got my buy it now price of $450 in two days, and the buyer picked it up in two weeks from 5 states away!

Would it help if I could provide a good roof and pillars? I know where there's another SS cowl back with a frame under it, otherwise it's gutted to the bare bones. The quarters and pans are beyond repair, so it could not be clipped into this one. I could buy it to add to this one if it offsets the added cost.

It sounds like your Crosley buyer needs to meet up with my Hillman wagon with the 430 Merc engine.

Rick

Looks like a pretty rare car to me . Complete side stripe on one side and nothing on the other.

Sorry, but I don't know what that means? If you're talking about the pinstripes, those were that cheezy tape. If that's it, I'll make sure to remove the one side when I'm prepping the car.

Thanks for your help,

Rick leave the stripes on. They are original to the car. Although, they should be on each side of the car.

I figured it was important if someone takes the time to point it out, and it's just the tape on product, so should remove easily. And if it was a facetious question, I'd like to get prepared for those before the flood of questions from the Ebay shoppers.

If I can get the block numbers engine, is there a registry or some way of trying to locate the original car? Does this type of thread get enough attention to make that kind of connection.

One thing I forgot to mention, the cam and lifters were switched to a hydraulic setup with a lick similar to the solid lifter version.

Thanks,

Rick

The sidestripe comment was just one of the guys joking around with you. Be prepared to deal with a lot of comments when you put it on ebay. If it wasn't mentioned allready, the dash strip will also be pointed out (no woodgrained dash strips on SS's). Having another roof available could be a perk, finding a good doner hardtop car isn't getting any easier. As far as the cam goes, the only difference that makes is if you are going to try and sell it together and now you can't say it was never apart. This site gets a lot of attention, but that engine could be a camaro 396 for all you know, if it is, we can refer you to a good board to post the info. Registries are hit or miss, not everyone trusts them to register their car and they aren't popular enough to draw enough attention. A good message board is probably more effective.

Steve

Sounds like I better get the engine numbers so i can start the search for the donor car, even if it's a long shot, I want to make the effort. I'll work on the roof, and will probably just buy the other car outright and offer them together.

I will try to locate and change out the dash trim before I take the auction pictures.

Thanks for letting me know about the joking around, being new and asking so much of you all, I wasn't sure of the context. It sounds like I might need to answer the legitimate Ebay questions privately instead of through their automatically public feature?

I don't want to a jerk, I'm just tired from years of frustration that led me to stop bothering with potential buyers. It's amazing the number of people with no money who are willing to save a car for mankind to get over their freshly signed divorce. I cannot express my appreciation enough for all the sincere effort this group is placing on getting this car to an owner who will do right by the sport.

Rick

I will try to locate and change out the dash trim before I take the auction pictures.

Rick, Don't worry about the dash trim. If you have an original Black dash strip just show that you have a photo of it to include with the car. That is a lot of work to change out. Not really a big deal having the wood grain dash strip.
The car is probably a whole lot more solid than I had originally thought, and if you do have a donor roof that will make the car more valuable (if you can get it cheap enough). I would just concentrate on cleaning it up, get lots of photos and decide what you are going to do with the engine. This car is going to sell itself.

I don't remember getting into anything complicated on the dash, maybe it was a mistake but I'll try and track down some history on that.

I can get the top cut anywhere I want it for about $600.00. I just don't know where someone would want their cuts. I can have it cut into the quarters, and thought about cutting across the top of the dash to leave the A pillars intact.

The problem is that I'm reluctant to have it cut into the cowl because there's a good title. I wish the guy wouldn't have told me the title as we're both paranoid about it.

Rick

Rick don't cut anything - if you have a donor car great if not that's fine too. You should get it cleaned up, take some good pictures, figure out your bottom line price, and list the car. Don't turn selling a project into a project.

Rick don't cut anything - if you have a donor car great if not that's fine too. You should get it cleaned up, take some good pictures, figure out your bottom line price, and list the car. Don't turn selling a project into a project.

EXACTLY!!! I am sitting here reading this post and thinking HUH?? man, don't make this complicated.. You have a $7500 to $9500 car.. AS IS.

Post it at Team Chevelle in our FREE CLASSIFIEDS and maybe a fellow member or passerby will buy it. Just put a price on it and sell it AS IS.. I wouldn't do anything to this car.. nothing.. note in the sale that you may have access to original engine and that can be discussed at time of sale.

If it doesn't sell at TC, post it at Ebay... this is a project car.. nothing special.. even the orig engine if found, at best, is a 350hp.. not bad.. but it is not going to increase value that much ...

Sounds like I better get the engine numbers so i can start the search for the donor car, even if it's a long shot, I want to make the effort. I'll work on the roof, and will probably just buy the other car outright and offer them together.

I will try to locate and change out the dash trim before I take the auction pictures.

Thanks for letting me know about the joking around, being new and asking so much of you all, I wasn't sure of the context. It sounds like I might need to answer the legitimate Ebay questions privately instead of through their automatically public feature?

I don't want to a jerk, I'm just tired from years of frustration that led me to stop bothering with potential buyers. It's amazing the number of people with no money who are willing to save a car for mankind to get over their freshly signed divorce. I cannot express my appreciation enough for all the sincere effort this group is placing on getting this car to an owner who will do right by the sport.

Rick

If you get asked a question let it stay on the automatic public feature because if you don't someone else will just ask you again. As for the stripe being only on one side I would leave it alone because the person who buys it might want to keep the stripes and since the one is original its place correctly; you wouldn't believe how many times I've seen the stripes in the wrong place. As for the engine I would leave it in the car unless you can find the original one that is for the car; most people like to see some sort of drivetrain in a car they buy instead of an empty engine bay.

If history is any indication, the questions and unsolicited commentary will be enough to drive the Hatter even MADDER. You wouldn't believe some of the things I've seen and heard since that car was parked.

It's one thing for people want to see the car, but to remove the ratchet straps and without invitation and leave it half pulled back is pretty mean spirited. Especially when they offer to haul it away. You wouldn't believe the value some people placed on that car, even before it deteriorated.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Rick

One thing I would do is get this car to a secure spot before someone brings a roll back in and just takes it some night. I haven't looked at the detail of your post or where the car is, but just by posting here you may have allready got that info in front of the wrong guy. Cars do get stolen.

One thing I would do is get this car to a secure spot before someone brings a roll back in and just takes it some night. I haven't looked at the detail of your post or where the car is, but just by posting here you may have allready got that info in front of the wrong guy. Cars do get stolen.

Thanks, it has been secured. That's why I was really concerned about posting anything when I saw the personal information of two people in one of the '70-SS thread recently. I'd never seen that before. I'll be glad to provide contact information and references, but those outings are scary.

I really appreciate your post.

Rick

Rick...

Dont worry about the roof...

Clean the car up as best as possible.

I mentioned waxing earlier...some may not agree...but this is why...waxing, removes dirt built up in the paint. It will make the paint shine if it still has some left, which I think it does, and sometime rust can take away some of the brown rust that gets onto the paint...if not remove it, will lighten the affects of it...

You need to get the numbers on the rear, trans, and engine. The rear and trans might not be to important to some but knowing what you have helps. That engine might be worth something or then it might not be worth anything other then the normal...

The better you make the car look the more $$$ you will get...

That car has some desirable options on it. I see a tilt floor shift column which alone adds to the value of the car.

Rick - I like that old NC inspection sticker. What part of NC was the car in? I'm in Concord.

What are the yellow line and the redline on the tach?

FYI, the tilt column looks to be the Buick / Olds / Pontiac unit, not the ultra-rare 67-chevelle-only tilt. Did you transplant the tilt in from another car at some point? A better pic of the part of the column that tapers down to go through the hole in the dash would help to determine for sure whether it is a Chevelle tilt or a B/O/P tilt.

I agree with everyone who says sell it as a whole. If you do find the original engine, then sell both engines with the car. Let the winning bidder deal with the hassle of removing the 69 engine and reselling it :thumbsup:

Jeff, I sent you a PM about the location.

Rick

I accidentally blocked PM's, I think I have it fixed.

Hey Rick,

You should list it here for free asking what you a willing to take for it; no reason to pay evilBay money if you don't need too... Just list it fairly and it will sell, but if you wanted top dollar then I would list it on eBay but then you will have to field all the question again and may have to deal with non payers, etc. To me if you include the engine that in the car now with maybe a replacement roof sheet metal I would think it should bring $8000 - $9500 would be fair for both parties if it comes with a clean title and no surprises. It never hurts to list things for free and why pay listing and selling fees? Just a thought.

Wow, that is such a shame. I gave the car a moment of silence. It is dead. Plenty of value as is, however, I dont think it can be saved, unless of course, you are a millionaire.

Wow, that is such a shame. I gave the car a moment of silence. It is dead. Plenty of value as is, however, I dont think it can be saved, unless of course, you are a millionaire.

That seems to be the minority opinion, so I'm curious as to what pushes to the cemetery for you? It's a little conflicting to read "plenty of value" and then "it can't be saved"?

It wouldn't be the first car with a new roof, although I'd think it a bit easier if a new roof was available. Quarters or skins aren't beyond the scope of repair.

What kind of value would you place on it? Not trying to pick a fight or dispute your opinion, just seeking a little more since it's so different than the rest of the advice I've been getting.

Thanks,

Rick

Hey Rick,

You should list it here for free asking what you a willing to take for it; no reason to pay evilBay money if you don't need too... Just list it fairly and it will sell, but if you wanted top dollar then I would list it on eBay but then you will have to field all the question again and may have to deal with non payers, etc. To me if you include the engine that in the car now with maybe a replacement roof sheet metal I would think it should bring $8000 - $9500 would be fair for both parties if it comes with a clean title and no surprises. It never hurts to list things for free and why pay listing and selling fees? Just a thought.

I'm kind of torn about offering it through private sell since there were so many people turned away over the years; inevitably there were honest, serious buyers in the bunch who deserve a chance if they see it on Ebay.

Word is getting around home that I'm putting the car on the market. I've had one guy who rode the bus past the car years ago get in contact with me. He says the school boy conversations about that car helped inspire him to get into muscle cars.

I'm not too concerned with deadbeats and non-payers, I would expect any buyer to come view the car for the kind of money we're talking. I was planning to write the ad to offer a deposit refund if it does not "meet the advertisement". I'll keep the keep the deposit low with reasonable time to inspect. I'm make it clear there will be no downward negotiation to discourage bottom feeders and pin-hookers .

It's worth it even if I eat a few fees, it can't be more than a couple of hundred bucks each time, so $500.00 or $600.00 to find a satisfied buyer is worth it in the long run. Whenever I sell anything, I want person to be happier buying than I am selling. I have an excellent reputation in the 2-wheel world, it's just the way I was raised.

I'll probably pickup the salvage roof I located, maybe have it installed and locate the original engine and confirm the tranny and differential. And clean and photograph the car and try to ignore the feelings I remember for it the first go round, althought I probably shouldn't have gone into the Body Shop section earlier tonight if I was trying to avoid that.

Thanks for your input,

Rick

I'd find an old malibu that was decent and clip it.Bash me all you want that's what I'd do.

I'd find an old malibu that was decent and clip it.Bash me all you want that's what I'd do.




What does clip it mean ?????

To clip a car.... You cut the body across the floor pan just ahead of the front seats and then cut the A piller at the bottom so you can do a lap weld on the floor and at the base of the a Piller. I've seen it done on badly rusted rear sections with bad roofs. I found out what clipping a car means the hard way; the body shop killed my '69 Super Bee doing this to my car without me understanding what it ment. Do not clip your car unless it has no value. OK TC someone put a hit contract out on Tod74.:D

Rick, I would strongly urge you to NOT do any repair work to the car. If you want to offer a roof with the car so be it, but don't start any work, in my opinion it will not help the sale. Finding the original engine would be a plus. If that car were mine, I would put it up for auction with the replacement roof, original engine if possible, and state that the engine in the car will NOT be included, leave it in till after the sale though. If you are looking for max money that engine is better sold for parts.

sell it to that guy on tv.....the super muscle car guy....I like it and know where there is one in my area in about the same shape....if I only had the time and dough....

What about this 67 if the add is truthfull.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/1452860287.html

Looks like $30,000 plus restoration.

I'd value this car at $4500-5500, depending on how badly somebody might want it.

I'd love to have it, but I have too many projects now.

What about this 67 if the add is truthfull.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/1452860287.html

Looks like $30,000 plus restoration.





I saw that one yestersday it looks like a nice car, for a good price.
If like you said truthfull???? You never know these days??

Rick, I would strongly urge you to NOT do any repair work to the car. If you want to offer a roof with the car so be it, but don't start any work, in my opinion it will not help the sale. Finding the original engine would be a plus. If that car were mine, I would put it up for auction with the replacement roof, original engine if possible, and state that the engine in the car will NOT be included, leave it in till after the sale though. If you are looking for max money that engine is better sold for parts.

That was kind of the direction I was thinking, but the number of people who think it's too far gone concerns me as I'll push it the woods to rot with the Hillman before I'll see it ripped apart if I can help it.

I have access to excellent body people who could install the roof to stabilize the value if that's what's scaring people into junking it out.

Would you sell the engine complete or in pieces? I'd rather not get into tearing an engine apart. 35 years ago I could have an engine swinging in less than an hour, I'm not that fast anymore.

Thanks,

Rick

I'd find an old malibu that was decent and clip it.Bash me all you want that's what I'd do.

Maybe it's a geographical thing, but there's guys in the area where I grew up that could clip a car without leaving a trace. You probably grew up in an area with the same kind to people.

Rick

That was kind of the direction I was thinking, but the number of people who think it's too far gone concerns me as I'll push it the woods to rot with the Hillman before I'll see it ripped apart if I can help it.

I have access to excellent body people who could install the roof to stabilize the value if that's what's scaring people into junking it out.

Would you sell the engine complete or in pieces? I'd rather not get into tearing an engine apart. 35 years ago I could have an engine swinging in less than an hour, I'm not that fast anymore.

Thanks,

Rick

Rick,
You have had lots of advice. Long thread on whether to "split it or sell whole".
Now, you either sell it whole or not.
If you sell it as a package, it is up to the buyer as to what he does to it. It is now owned by the new owner.
He/she can part it out or restore it.
You have lost all control.....as you should...you have sold it.
If you want control over what happens to this car, then you have to decide whether to restore it yourself.
There is a good chance that whoever buys it will part it out.
Just the way it is. Many don't have the patience or $$ to restore. Make money on parting it out....yep, they can do that if they buy it right. Lots of valuable parts. Fact is also that it will take a lot of time and a lot of money to restore in the shape it is presently in.
That's all. That's the way it is.
Make a decision but, as this thread started, you do not want to restore yourself. So...sell it.
Up to you to sell as is or part it out yourself.
Best of luck with your decision.

Rick, all advice considered, I think you should just put it up for sale as is. No matter what there are going to be guys that think it's not repairable, not everyone is capable of that type of repair work. If you have a price in mind put a reserve on it, or put it up for fixed price with best offer and see what happens. I think the best pharase I heard stated earlier was "don't turn a project into a project". The engine is a toss up, you probably could pull 2500 out of the engine parting it out at todays prices, you may be able to get more for it whole to the right guy, it's hard to say, it's still a good idea to see what those numbers are on the pad to determine what it is. But it sounds like you just need to unload everything and move on. Just ebay it and see where it goes.

Rick, all advice considered, I think you should just put it up for sale as is. No matter what there are going to be guys that think it's not repairable, not everyone is capable of that type of repair work. If you have a price in mind put a reserve on it, or put it up for fixed price with best offer and see what happens. I think the best pharase I heard stated earlier was "don't turn a project into a project". The engine is a toss up, you probably could pull 2500 out of the engine parting it out at todays prices, you may be able to get more for it whole to the right guy, it's hard to say, it's still a good idea to see what those numbers are on the pad to determine what it is. But it sounds like you just need to unload everything and move on. Just ebay it and see where it goes.

Putting a value on the engine helps in the decision. I hope to have those numbers in the next few days so I can post them for everyone.

I have no problem putting the time, effort and money into exploring the options and making the best decision. It's not a fire sale, I have options. I also have too many years in making high dollar decisions to take the most expedient path.

Rick

Do not replace the roof if you're going to sell the car. The majority of the rot (the visible part at least) is in the sail panel which is part of a full quarter. So if someone wants to put full quarters on the car that problem will be solved. There's probably rust underneath there too, but that is best assessed by whomever does the quarters.

Plus, even if the entire roof does need to be replaced, whomever buys the car is going to have to do a full resto and probably would prefer to have control of who changes the roof and exactly how it is done (where to cut, where to splice, etc.). Whomever you hire to replace it might do a great job or they might not. But regardless they might not do it the way the person that would buy the car wants it done.

So in my mind, clean it up and sell it as is, or just keep it and fix it however you want to. But don't muddy the water by trying to do a little of both.

Good luck either way, though!

Maybe it's a geographical thing, but there's guys in the area where I grew up that could clip a car without leaving a trace. You probably grew up in an area with the same kind to people.

Rick


I was gonna say, you should be able to graft on a whole new top and fix that rust problem

I now have the engine numbers. I am not sure how much of the set that begins with 19B that I should post since it possibly relates to a specific car.

The other set is T03111JD, if I am correct this confirms it as being originally built as 375 engine in 1969.

As always, I appreciate the help,

Rick

Yup, 1969 Chevelle 396 375hp manual trans. Sounds like a good one.

Yup, 1969 Chevelle 396 375hp manual trans. Sounds like a good one.

What does the second set of numbers indicate, I know the "1" is Chevy, the "9" is the model year and I think the "B" indicates Baltimore final vehicle assembly?

I searched but could not locate the meaning for the 6 numbers following the "B". I think these associate this engine with the original as-built Chevelle. Is that correct?

Any suggestions on locating the owner of the car this engine was assembled with? I know it's a long shot, but that could make a Chevelle lover's day.

Thanks,

Rick

What does the second set of numbers indicate, I know the "1" is Chevy, the "9" is the model year and I think the "B" indicates Baltimore final vehicle assembly?

I searched but could not locate the meaning for the 6 numbers following the "B". I think these associate this engine with the original as-built Chevelle. Is that correct?

Any suggestions on locating the owner of the car this engine was assembled with? I know it's a long shot, but that could make a Chevelle lover's day.

Thanks,

Rick

That would be the serial number sequence of the original V.I.N.
I don't see any reason not to post it for public viewing. How else would the hopeful car owner find it?
Dale M here on the T/C group also has a website with TONS of info on Chevelles, (especially 1966-1967 ) and also has a registry location for Orphan parts
Check out ChevelleStuff.com (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/ChevelleStuff.com)
Here's the link for the orphan parts
http://www.chevellestuff.com/orphaned/orphaned_paperwork.htm

Dan

PS: For an interesting read on old Chevelles, finding lost stuff & getting lucky go to:
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=252313

The neat thing is in the unlikely event the car is still out there, for the 1969 model year the SS was not a seperate model so you couldn't "prove" it was an SS by the VIN, so if that car is out there that engine is the hard evidence needed to prove it's pedigree, not to mention the very desireable L78 option. But in reality the car was probably wrecked and recycled into a Toyota Corolla by now... but you never know.

I know this topic is wearing me out, put the thing up for sale and move on!

I know this topic is wearing me out, put the thing up for sale and move on!

If it is truly wearing you out, why are you still clicking on it, reading it and contributing useless posts to it?
Take your own advice:
Move on!

The expression of a single poster's wear and tear on his well-being has restored my sense of reality. It shows the classic pin-hooker's attitude that frustrated my earlier attempts at doing precisely what he suggests.

I'm truly sorry if adding to this thread is against protocol. The distance between my current and former homes makes for some delay in activity. If I should have started a new thread, feel free to close this one and advise.

Initially I was actually prepared for some amount of tongue lashing and brow beating for allowing the car to deteriorate. I have been very pleased by your reception to a newbie posting the story behind this car and the numerous questions.

The long shot concept of reuniting the engine to the original car was a direct result of the questions and answers on this forum.


The responses, great ideas, suggestions and tips are all under consideration. I planned to keep the forum apprised of my decisions and actions if I haven't overstayed your very generous welcome.

Best Regards,

Rick

I think most of T/C is behind you on this, Rick. I appreciate your enthusiasm for "doing the right thing" with respect to the car and now the engine.
Both are valuable in their own right, and documenting what you have and how you hope to be able to get these pieces of history into hands that will truly appreciate them is to be commended.
Keep it up.

Dan

Don't get me wrong, I'd certainly make the effort to get the word out on that '69s VIN and see what happens, post it here and lets see what we can come up with.

I don't see how this post can "wear someone out." In my opinion, the fact that he found a true 375 horse 396 inside the engine bay is like finding a rare gem inside a gold ingot.:yes:

This fact alone makes this thread that much more intersting IMO. Just think of how exciting it would be to find the 69 that goes with that engine.:thumbsup:

I won't make separate posts, but will thank you all for the support and encouragement.

I directly credit this group for the idea of reuniting the engine with the original car. You've also encouraged me to locate the leftover parts when I go back home, as well as think of some additional parts.

Until we discussed this 375 engine, I had not given this stuff much thought over the years. Now I'm kind of fired up about it. If I can find them, there's a '70-396, a '66-396 from my sister's convertible and a 4:10 differential possibly from a '67 that will be looking for their original homes.

One question on posting the vin #'s off the block. I see vins are posted on here without the last few digits, I assume in the interest of privacy or forgery? Also, is it acceptable to "out" someone who had claimed a matching numbers engine if this one would suddenly pop up?

Thanks again,

Rick

Also, is it acceptable to "out" someone who had claimed a matching numbers engine if this one would suddenly pop up?

Thanks again,

Rick

It wouldn't be the first time it's happened, I remember specifically a street rod that had popped up on ebay that had a '67 Corvette 427 435 block with the cars VIN still on it, the car was found and was already a documented numbers matching 427 400hp car :rolleyes:
Whoops.

Sounds like you have access to some valuable hardware, get it back into circulation!:yes:

Steve

Oh boy, I'll bet that caused a ruckus in the 'Vette community.

I've been told the original engine won't add much value to this car, assuming I can find it. And that even restored, there's nothing special about the car.

I'm not suffering from BJ delusions by any stretch of the imagination. It's just that I've been reading the forum's way of gauging marketability of a car.

It looks like having the original engine, tranny and differential seem to influence the marketabilty a great deal. At least that is frequently the first question asked when a car is presented for discussion.

Lets say I have the lowest HP engine that matches up. Is it accurate when I'm told there's nothing special about it, a 4-speed, console, bucket, air car, even with the matching drive train? Does being complete not matter to the marketability of a project?

I also ask as this relates to the 375 engine.

If the matching numbered engine doesn't help the marketability of my SS car, it might not be worth the effort to locate the owner of the car that matches the 375-horse engine. If the original engine doesn't help my car, does it really help the owner of the '69?

I asked the friend who was with me when I bought the engine. He remembers it being in a '69. We both remember it being a drag car. Of course this was many, many years ago. I would think this would give the '69 a better chance of survival as opposed to my buying a salvage yard engine.

I'll try to get the serial numbers posted later tonight.

As always, thanks for the help,

Rick

I was just wondering if you are going to list it soon either here, or on Ebay. If it was me I would see what the market tells you at auction, but set a reserve you could live with. Everything else is pure speculation as to what something is worth; only the real market will tell you anything. As for this engine in your car currently in my opinion this engine doesn't add to your car because it's not from your car originally. However, if the car the engine originally goes to is still around it could be worth some to them. Now finding them could be the real issue; it's like finding a needle in a haystack if it even still exists. I would pull the current engine, clean it up and see what it goes for or offer it to the winning buyer after the auction is over. There's no reason to beat a dead horse in my opinion.

You have to remember a 375 HP engine was a great thing back when it was new but today if you’re going to go BB as a replacement engine most people would choose a 454 to 572 engine before installing a 396 unless they are building an SS clone or replacing a 396 (375hp) engine in a car that came with one from the factory. I've seen some 396/375 engines go for good money but they either were in running condition or had been reconditioned and were being sold as a block needing to be put back together. This engine would appeal the most to someone who is replacing an existing 396-375. The issue I can see with the one in your car is if I remember correctly you don't know what condition it is in or for that matter you may find out you have a rats nest in one the cylinders and a ruined block. Pulling it is the only way to know, but whatever you decide to do if you’re going to have it machined make sure they do not deck your block or you could lose all those wonderful numbers.

It wouldn't be the first time it's happened, I remember specifically a street rod that had popped up on ebay that had a '67 Corvette 427 435 block with the cars VIN still on it, the car was found and was already a documented numbers matching 427 400hp car :rolleyes:
Whoops.

Wonder how that went over?:sad:

That's the direction I was thinking when I asked originally, especially if I can locate the original engine. I know exactly where I put it, but I haven't been there to check on it in awhile.

I don't mind doing the work to pull the engine, and have it professionally checked and detailed to make it presentable. I will not sell a pig in a poke as we say in the South. I want to do it right, even if the net is less.

That's very good information about decking the block when it's checked. Also good to know the diminishing value according to the specific application. Hopefully it's not too bad, as it was around 2000-miles on a fresh professional build when the car was parked.

I'll be back home next week, that will determine the path to selling the vehicle. There are a few locals that I'd like to advise of the pending sale. With the help I've received here and the people who inquired about it over the years, I will most likely let it fly on Ebay in the sense of fairness.

Rick

Is a '67 138 SS car w/ it's original engine worth more than one without?
YES.
Is a total project '67 138 SS w/out any engine worth less than one w/ a non-original engine?
YES, but not too much.
Is a '69 375 hp 396 engine worth something?
YES, quite a bit, especially to the one person with the car that matches the partial V.I.N. on the pad.
Even other folks pay handsome $$ for the date coded parts that make that engine pretty rare after 40 years....

Dan

Here's the numbers, lets see what happens.

363369

Rick

Rick,
Contact Dale M -
http://www.chevellestuff.com/contact/images/dalem.jpg
with the info to get it listed on his website page for uniting parts and papers with the vehicle owners.
http://www.chevellestuff.com/orphaned/orphaned_paperwork.htm


Dan

I put up a post with the VIN in Chevelle Tech, a lot more traffic in that section.

I put up a post with the VIN in Chevelle Tech, a lot more traffic in that section.

I contacted Dale, and forwarded the numbers and photograph of the casting numbers. I'll be sending him pictures of the right side numbers when I go back home for Thanksgiving.

I'm not sure whether you're pointing me towards a post that you've made or to the place I should make one?

Thanks for the help,

Rick

...
I'm not sure whether you're pointing me towards a post that you've made or to the place I should make one?

Thanks for the help,

Rick

He started a thread in "Chevelle Tech"
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297872

Dan

Cool, thanks!

Rick

Any infomation or progress? Have you listed it yet?

There's nothing wrong with feeling how you feel. I often feel the same way about my cay just sitting. I couldn't see the pictures, but the definition of restorable varies by person.

I'm kind of a newbie here too, but had to post on this thread as i've been following it for a little while now. You mentioned that you have access to a roof clip for this car, and then mentioned that you have a good body guy that was willing to do the clip for you. No offense, but if your willing to go that far with the car, then why not just restore it and keep it? I really get the impression that your not 100% ready to let it go. I mean obviously you had reasons to park it, and more reasons to hold onto it for all these years. I know this doesn't relate, but it's food for thought. My uncle bought a 1969 mach 1 mustang back in 69. It was a 428 super cobra jet, ram air, drag pack car, with 4.30 rear end, black, shaker hood, louvers on the rear window, trunk spoiler, and drove it to just around 18,000 miles, then parked it. it sat inside, and outside, got rusty, he then restored it. now I was in love with that car MY WHOLE LIFE, and would have given anything to own it, however one day he decided to sell and it sold to some folks up in ontario who low balled him, and basically stole the car. From the very second that car left his hands, he's wanted it back.. I only mention that because only you can decide if you really want to sell it or if it's something you really want to keep around. Whatever your decision you should act soon as the rust will only get worse, and this time of year is a really bad time to try and get top dollar out of something. I myself feel the car is restorable, but in all honesty, ANYTHING is restorable, it's just a matter of what that car is worth to you, and how much your willing to spend. Good luck in what ever you decide..

Mike

I only have Internet service on my phone here in NC but wanted to update.

I have the car safe & secure sitting on 4 decent tires. I haven't decided what to do with it. That is very good advice about selling a car that we're attached to. I don't have a strong attachment to it, I actually liked my 70-SS's better.

I don't "need" the dough and I do have the time & resources to repair the car so that is an option. I'd certainly enjoy it if I repaired it as it wouldn't sit idle again.

Thanks Again to all

Rick

I would have sold it one years ago for a decent offer. The most I was offered over the years was $600.00 before the vinyl attacked the roof. Most offers were $50.00 over scrap.

to.

If it is within your means Rick, I say restore it and enjoy it.:thumbsup:

If you decide to sell, good luck on the sale, hopefully it goes to someone who appreciates it for what it is and doesn't part it out and put the trim and vin tags up for sale on ebay.