: To Powdercoat Frame or Not?
jdcastig Nov 1st, 09, 1:44 PM Can some members comment on wether or not powder coating a frame on my 67 Chevelle resto is worth the expense or not. I have a local shop that will sandblast and powdercoat the frame for 700 bucks. Does powdercoating protect against rust and is it a good choice for the long term in terms of rust protection and durability.
Or I can wire brush it down and sand it with some 80 grit on a drill sander
and then POR 15 it. my feeling is that POR 15 will protect the frame and hold up as good or better than powder coating. Im not sure its worth 700 dollars for powdercoating. I would like some opinions. Im trying to save some money because this resto has already broken my bank.
Also how much do people usually pay just to have a frame media blasted only? Many thanks-John
john5469 Nov 1st, 09, 2:09 PM John, I'm in a similar situation. My 69 frame has surface rust on top, and where the factory sprayed coating on the sides and bottom it is in good shape. I am going to rent a pull behind commercial compressor (yep-the big one) and sand blaster for $180. They (United Rentals) sell the Black Beauty media also, $15/100lbs. Then just slap on some Eastwoods chassis black. (after fixing some blemishes and traction bar bolt holes)
CRUZN69 Nov 1st, 09, 2:15 PM The shop I use in Glendale to powdercoat will do two for that price. The going price at most shops for a blast and powder is 3-4 hundred max. I've done all my cars, including my sprint cars. Well worth it.
kblock108 Nov 1st, 09, 2:34 PM I did mine for a lot less than 300 too and I am glad i did it. For me, it wasnt really worth renting equipment and trying to do something myself that did not equal that of powdercoating. I am sure you can find a $300 price somewhere out there. A buddy of mine came over yesturday that has a 66, we started talking about what he did to his and when he told me he popped the body off to replace the bushngs, he was disappointed that he did not do the frame. With being in New York, I am sure the salts on the road dont help anything. My vote, suck up a 3 or 400 price and do it, it will look awsome! Or, buy one that it already done...
kblock108 Nov 1st, 09, 2:40 PM I forgot to mention that the long term benefits of PC are proven, especially in harsh enviroments like you have on the eastcoast. POR 15 I am not sure about, especially 10 years down the road. It looks good, but pulling my body was decent day job with buddies, but hopefully I wont ever have to do it again.
fishhead Nov 1st, 09, 2:43 PM John
Our shop is setup to do the frame sandblasting but not the powdercoating...I only have small ovens...
I do want to buy UV lighting to set myself up to do frames...
Powdercoating is a tough finish...
If you never had something coated...a good example...a screwdriver struck across a painted surface will scrape the paint off...on powdercoat it might scratch the surface but wont go through as easily...
if you ever sandblasted paint you note that it comes off fairly easily...with pcoat it can take 2-3 times as long to get the coating off...
Alan F Nov 1st, 09, 3:24 PM I powdercoated my frame (and all the other parts) because I didn't want to deal with the mess. For me, it was a matter of convenience.
I can see where if you were on a budget the relative value could be questionable. However, POR15 is not cheap and it is meant to be topcoated. I left a piece of metal outside that I had painted with semi-gloss black POR15 for a couple of years (left it wedged in a wood fence). It turned a murky dark charcoal gray over time.
I think the powdercoating will look better longer and clean up easier. Also by sandblasting the frame you're getting the frame cleaner than you would with a wire wheel. As a practical matter, it probably won't make any difference in your lifetime.
I will say this in resoponse tothis resto has already broken my bank Everything is more expensive than I could have imagined. There will be a compound effect over the life of the project. I decided that 'I wanted it like I wanted it' and was not going to compromise on mine.
Good luck!
z15cam Nov 1st, 09, 4:55 PM After sandblasting I sprayed about 3 shoots of Epoxy Under Coat then shot Automotive Tremclad over it. It very durable. If you happen to scratch it, it is much easier to touch up compared to Powder Coat.
shadowgray396 Nov 1st, 09, 5:09 PM John,
I had mine blasted and powder coated and like the way it came out. In fact almost everything on the frame is powder coated and it looks great. You can see my frame in my signature link.
Ray
chuckd71 Nov 1st, 09, 7:33 PM Hopefully within the next five years I'll be in a position to galvanize (mainly to get the inside of the boxed frame clean) then powder coat my frame. They sure look pretty if nothing else.
chewyman1 Nov 1st, 09, 7:55 PM I actually had my frame sand blasted & galvanized - it got inside all the nooks & crannies and the frame is completely sealed inside and out since it's a dipping process. For me, it was actually $100.00 cheaper than having it powdercoated (but the guy here is a little pricey on his stuff because he's the only one around for 100 miles. I then coated it with eastwoods chassis black & it looks incredible. Plus it's easy to touch up if it's chipped, and the galv. company gave me 4 cans of aerosol zinc for touch ups too. I'm really glad I did because i've already had to take a grinding wheel to the frame to clearance the drag link grease zerts, so fixing the grinding was super easy. Just a thought.
Seagram's 72 Nov 1st, 09, 10:14 PM Powdercoat! I had all of my suspension, brackets, rearend, and frame done for $500. To account for all the time and $ I would have into blasting and paint it is a no brainer. Definetly worth the $$. Not to mention the finish is mirror like on the frame and components. I was in your same boat a few months ago and I do not regret doing the powdercoat. Shop around though, some shops wanted $1000 for everything I was bringing in. I found about 10 within an hours drive from me.
webfoot Nov 1st, 09, 10:55 PM I chose to shoot epoxy primer and eastwood chassis black on mine. Looks great, and the pampering our frame-off rides will get plus the price of powdercoating justified this.
That eastwood stuff is tough! Painted a control arm bolt with it and whacked it on my metal sawhorses. No chips!
John_Auberry Nov 2nd, 09, 3:17 AM POR15 all the way. I will not chip or rust.....ever. Nor will it come off your hands.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d110/john_auberry/64%20chevelle/100_4236.jpg
65 SS Nov 2nd, 09, 10:02 PM If you can afford the powder coat do that. I think it looks the best. It gets inside the frame real well too. But you can't see much of that pretty frame any way.
I hear you on the budget! At the least You should have it blasted. Then decide on a coating you would apply yourself.
I had mine blasted for $300.00 then did the POR-15 myself. You can't reach every spot though. It needs a top coat but that's no big deal. Just follow the directions. It's been a hot topic here so do a search.
Ron
rubadub Nov 3rd, 09, 2:23 AM Pictures didn't work for me.
cuisinartvette Nov 3rd, 09, 11:55 AM Blasted and POR15'd my frame in 2000, it looks exactly like it did when I sprayed it. Have had powdercoated frames and they look great but once you get a chip it will continue.
Rmchevelle Nov 11th, 09, 4:40 AM The shop I use in Glendale to powdercoat will do two for that price. The going price at most shops for a blast and powder is 3-4 hundred max. I've done all my cars, including my sprint cars. Well worth it.You guys are fortunate. Just saw a company called Central CT. Coatings at the swap meet this weekend and they charge a minimum of $650 to do one frame. So, twice the price that some of you other guys are paying. :sad:
1965stlhrsrdr Nov 11th, 09, 2:33 PM i had a local shop price my frame,rad support,inner fenders,and control arms(fr&rr) in powder for $800.but that was with me sandblasting.too high for me!ordered por 15 myself.i have access to a tag along compressor,so my only expense is sand,fuel,and time.
AK71SS Nov 11th, 09, 5:11 PM I chose to powder coated the frame, rear end, and the front end. Little expensive but I think well worth it.
Greg Nov 11th, 09, 5:38 PM POR15 all the way. It will not chip or rust...ever. Nor will it come off your hands.
What convinced me of the durability and quality of POR15 is a friend who used it on a metal part that he rigged up near where his boat motor is attached to his boat.
The part is submerged under the water and the boat is used in salt water only, and yet it still looks as good as the day he put it on.
I've seen debates about POR15, but for me, as they say, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.
Regards,
-Greg
Chris R Nov 11th, 09, 7:30 PM I used POR-15 on sandblasted suspension parts and the front section of the frame on my 66SS in 1998 and its looked great ever since the day I put it on.
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