Any tips on brightening up the outside of a cad-plated power barke booster? I assume it's cad plated. Part of a complete disc brake conversion kit from Master Power Brakes. I don't know whether the stuff on it is petroleum based from a leak or the beginning of the usual corrosion from brake fluid. I ant to avoid polishing through was appears to be cad-plating. BTW, best money I've ever spent on my 71 Malibu convt. was the disc brake conversion. It was awfully expensive buying the kit and having someone else install it but worth every penny.

I painted mine using that "Hammerite" finish paint (got it at Home De Pot. Alot of people think it's a factory finish~ Though I used silver it is also available in gold. It produces a weird patterned look. I also used it on all my pulleys... :eek: I also used DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid. NO WORRY about paint or corrosion with that. This is MIL Spec purple stuff used in the Army 5 Ton trucks. Works great and have not had any leaks yet in over 2 years now. Best part it was "free" in a trade of labour while I was still in the Army.

Thanks for the advice harleighguy. I understand that silicone and traditional brake fluid don't mix and that you have to bleed ALL of the old stuff out to convert. Is this correct? I've also heard that Ford DOT 3 is the best non-silicone as it's the only formula that doesn't actually attract moisture. Saw a blurb a couple years ago in Chevy HighPerformance about this.

You cannot mix regular and silicone brake fluid. I went with the silicone fluid in my Chevelle and am very glad I did. If I ever build up a new brake system again I'll go with silicone again.

I used Krylon Gold Metalic Spray Paint from Lowe's. It's described as bright, durable, shiny on the can. It's #1706, and I was very pleased with the results. I don't know how authentic it is, if that's a concern, but it looks great.

I've used Hammerite paint too, and like it a lot. A tough finish, and it's good for hiding imperfections on not-so-smooth surfaces. I used the brush on type, and it takes a while to get the hang of it. It can be pretty tempermental. You have to keep working to the wet edge of your paint or it'll bugger up on you in a hurry. Never tried the spray stuff.

It might be too late for yours but clean it up with some good "wax and grease" remover (painter's stuff), and hit it with some rattle can clear. Before I intalled my MP kit I hit all the Cad parts with clear, and they look as new as out of the box a year later.

Duplicolor's gold lacquer spray looks nice, followed by a clear coat as well.