I haven't really looked at my chevelle or mocked anything up to see if this is physically possible.

But what I'm thinking, since the tall spindle does provide a better camber curve, but some don't like the bump steer it also ads. Would it be possible to lower the upper control arm mounting location? And retain the stock spindle.

First gen Camaro guys do this all the time, I did it on mine, it's called the "Guldstrand" mod. It moves the control arm down about 3/8" and back some, for a better camber curve, and increased caster. And it really helps the camber curve. This is done by either re-drilling the holes for the studs, or some have completly cut off the control arm mount, chopped 3/8" off, moved it back some, and then re-welded it back to the frame,

Has anyone ever tried this on a Chevelle? Is it possible?

You could move the mount back but I think the control arm is about as far down as possible. I think dealing with the bumpsteer issues would be more productive.

Jeff

I have yet to find a way to deal with the bumpsteer.

If I understand it correctly, you'd want to get the steering linkage onto the same plane. What about the Baer bumpsteer things? I've heard mixed reviews. I used to work on a circle track car. The chassis was a G body and we moved the idler/pitman arms down to lessen the bumpsteer. I can't recall where we were to begin with or where we ended up but I do remember doing it.

Jeff

From what I've read, to correct bumpsteer when using the tall spindle, the tie rod would have to move up, not down, as the bump steer spacers would ad.

Originally posted by MarkM:
From what I've read, to correct bumpsteer when using the tall spindle, the tie rod would have to move up, not down, as the bump steer spacers would ad. Right, but moving the tie rod up and moving the idler/pitman down leave the same result. We just sliced the mounting off another idler and wleded to the one on the car so we had 3 holes instead of 2. Then used the 2 top holes. Don't know if that makes sense. On the pitman arm, we checked the chassis books until we found the longest arm that would fit our box. Then heated and bent it into a "Z" to brong that down. Worked pretty well.

Jeff

Well, I guess I'll look into moving it when the time comes. Still seems easier then trying to correct the bumpsteer issue, :D .