Rear Control Arm Removal [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Rear Control Arm Removal


71chevelleconvtble
Jan 13th, 04, 6:56 PM
Any suggestions or tricks to get the bolts out of the control arms? Nuts are off but I can't get the bolts to back out. Any help would be appreciated.

Jawez
Jan 13th, 04, 10:21 PM
I had the same problem on the weekend. I just kept on backing out the bolt and it eventually came out. Once the threads did catch, it came out quite easily.

Cheers

fro71
Jan 13th, 04, 10:47 PM
is the bolt spinning ? if it is does feel like its chewing the rubber up or spinning in the bushing because the bolts somtimes rust to sleeve in the bushing.had this happen on a monte i used to own ended up cutting the bolts out with a sawsall not a fun job.

chris

elcamino72
Jan 13th, 04, 11:03 PM
Perhaps thread the nuts on slighly and and tap the bolts as you turn them. This may help. Also it may help to put some PB Blaster or like substance on them to aid in their removal.

Peter F.
Jan 13th, 04, 11:41 PM
Sounds like Chris described the problem. Was the bolt initially quite hard to turn and then it seemed to break free? This is the symtom of the bushing sleeve rusting to the bolt and then turning in the bushing with the bolt. Basically, you can try to break the bolts loose by hitting them or cutting the bolts as already suggested.

I dropped the rear suspension and I had 2 rusted and 2 pull out. The ones that came out weren't really hard at all to pull out. It was easier for me because the frame is sitting alone in the garage.

Peter

71chevelleconvtble
Jan 14th, 04, 8:25 AM
Thanks for the replies and suggestions. The bolt is turning and I am using PB Blaster. It was and is still very hard to turn. Been in there for 33 years. I have the nut on at the end of the bolt and I am trying to apply pressure using a large pry bar while turning the bolt with an impact. Can't get a hammer in there. I guess my next move is to grind or sawsall the bolt head off and pound it through. Is that what you did to your Monte Chris?

67lemanster
Jan 14th, 04, 10:15 AM
[QUOTE] Can't get a hammer in there.

i had the same problem and also could not get hammer to bolt end. fortunatley for me i had a large drift(punch, a great drift or punch i use is an old sway bar cut down to about 18 to 24 inches) that way you can put the end of it on the bolt and beat the snot out of it. once it is back up a little then hit it with the impact on reverse and it will back out. the ends of the bolts as you can see are tappered for ease of installation but they are also nice because they are harder to booger up the threads. you might want to try that route. i have done two cars in the past 2 years and cannot tell you how much i use the drift to drive out stubborn bolts and beat stuff where you cant get a hammer too. good luck

71chevelleconvtble
Jan 14th, 04, 1:30 PM
67...Are you saying I should bend the end of the bolt slightly using a punch so that the threads will catch? I guess I could try that. I just wanted to make sure I understand you correctly. I'm working on the rear lower control arms right now and these are the rear bolts. The end of the bolt is between the arm and the brake drum. Haven't even started on the front bolt or the upper arms yet. Thanks again.

Texas70
Jan 14th, 04, 1:41 PM
I just did this last night. I took the bolts out of the lower control arms where they attach to the rear end (no problem). I then loosened the bolts on the upper rear control arms with a breaker bar and then was able to back them 95% of the way out with the impact wrench and a 3/4" socket (also no problem). Now the rear end is sitting on a jack (balanced) with those 2 bolts being the only thing attaching it to the car. With the rear end binding on them, they are stuck at this point. I am going to try the hammer and punch method tonight to get the bolts the other 5% of the way out and then drop the rear end to the floor. Thanks for the tip graemlins/thumbsup.gif

fro71
Jan 14th, 04, 10:37 PM
71 you mite want to try a ball joint press for those bolts at the rear end.it just a big c clamp this worked for me on my 71.you can use it to press the bolts out works rather well.the ones i cut out of the monte where the front bolts the ones with the bolt heads in the frame.they where so bad i ran a port a power across from bolt to bolt and jacked. it and started to spread the frame apart and the bolts would still not come loose.i finaly got the sawsall out and cut the bolt between the frame and the arm and between the arm and the frame bracket.it took about a week on my back and 20 blades but they came out.


chris

67lemanster
Jan 14th, 04, 10:44 PM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 71chevelleconvtble:
[QB] 67...Are you saying I should bend the end of the bolt slightly using a punch so that the threads will catch?

No dont bend the bolt...just get a big punch or drift and put that agains the bolt end and then hit the other end of the drift or punch with a bfh(big freakin hammer) graemlins/thumbsup.gif

you might want to soak liberally with some penatrating oil or equivilant over night and maybe that will loosen the bolts up. if you can just whack it a 1/2" out then the threads on the bolts will catch the lips of the brackets and then control arms and will back out naturally with the aid of an impact gun on reverse. also you might want to put the impact on the bold and go forward to loosen its grip inside the control arm.

here is another thought...can you get any of the bolt backed out enought to get a pry bar between the head and the control arm bracket. if so pry the bolt back with aiding with full impact in reverse. keep us updated. good luck. Tommy

71chevelleconvtble
Jan 15th, 04, 8:42 AM
Here is the update. The bolts are stuck just as fro71 thought. I tried using a big C clamp and deep well socket on the head of the bolt. I started to bend the handle on the clamp and the bolt still won't budge. How can rust between a bushing and bolt cause this much problem? I do not have enough gap between the bolt head and frame to pry on. I think I will try more heat/pb blaster and the C clamp again before I cut off the heads unless anyone has other ideas.
Thanks again graemlins/thumbsup.gif

67lemanster
Jan 15th, 04, 2:31 PM
71 Sorry for all the trouble you are going through. it is times like this that make me wonder why arent i chasing women instead of trying how to figure how to get a 35 year old bolt out. graemlins/clonk.gif but you as well as me know that once we get it out the satisfaction outwieghs the first choice. i think the heat is agood idea. have you tried the penatrating oil? it has some chemical that helps break down rust. i am a firm believer in that stuff. also have you tried beating on the head of bolt with the biggest hammer you have(read sledge) sometimes the shock of beating it with the aid of oil will break it free. i am still racking my brain. if i have anymore hair brain ideas i will get back. good luck. Tommy

71chevelleconvtble
Jan 15th, 04, 3:48 PM
I know what you mean about satisfaction. I'm determined to get these out. So far, I am having better luck with the upper control arm bolts. And yes, I am beating the heck out of it with my engineer hammer (small sledge) and using a lot of penetrating oil. I have a larger sledge but I don't want to bend the frame. I also have a 1" x 12" solid round brass punch for beating bolts with. This is frustrating but also a whole lot of fun too. Thanks for your help but don't rack your brain out. Think about chasing women instead. :D

67lemanster
Jan 15th, 04, 4:31 PM
Think about chasing women instead. :D [/QB][/QUOTE]

If i chase too much not enough cheddar for the lemans and camaro. graemlins/hurray.gif no need to respond to this...but have you tried heat on the bolt, maybe from a propane torch. i know for a fact rust does not like heat. :D


good luck and dont have too much fun. Tommy

drptop70ss
Jan 15th, 04, 5:05 PM
I have dealt with this many, many times and it is never fun! Any time I pull a rear or front lower control arm this is a possibility. If you cant beat the bolt out from the nut side with a large drift punch, or a spare control arm bolt, then you are going to have to cut the bolt out with a sawzall. I have had bolts so rusted to that inner sleeve that when beating on them they would actually spread the frame mount rather than let loose. Not fun but if they are that stuck then cutting is the only way to do it without bending something. I dont use a torch because all that does is set the bushing on fire and make a stinky smokey mess and you dont want a fire around a gas tank.

71chevelleconvtble
Jan 15th, 04, 8:11 PM
Oh..sooooo much fun. Well I got both rear bolts on the lower control arm bolts out about an inch using the C clamp method. Very hard movement all the way and I think I galled the C clamp. Can't use the clamp anymore, ran out of travel and I would need a longer one if I want to continue. I think at this point I will just sawsall the bolts and pound the them through. I tried using Mapp gas (burns alot hotter than propane) to no avail. Like drptop said, it just makes a stinky mess. Gas tank is off btw, got a new one delivered yesterday. Still have to get at the upper control arm front bolts out. They look really rusty and very hard to get to. graemlins/waving.gif

67lemanster
Jan 15th, 04, 9:52 PM
71 like my grand pappy use to say "little strokes fell the mighty oak". i might have to bolts and nuts from my car laying around if you shoot me your address in a email i can send out tomorrow. you should get in a couple days. let me know and congrats on the little movement. Tommy

John D
Jan 15th, 04, 10:16 PM
I would've gotten out the sawzall a long time ago - you've already spent enough time and energy on fasteners you're not going to (be able to) re-use.

Cut them off, and be careful not to drift with the saw and slice into the mounts.

71chevelleconvtble
Jan 16th, 04, 8:17 AM
Thanks for the offer 67 but I already ordered all new bolts and nuts. I realized early on that these bolts could never be used again. Very nice of you to offer. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

67lemanster
Jan 16th, 04, 10:07 AM
71 sweet ride. i just now looked at it. hey are you putting in new bushings or control arms in, no other reason to know just curious. good luck.

71chevelleconvtble
Jan 16th, 04, 10:42 AM
67, thanks for the compliment. I will be boxing in the existing lower arms and drilling the holes for a sway bar in case I want to add one later. I will have the control arms powder coated. I have new rubber bushings and springs to put in. The undercarriage will be painted and the gas tank replaced. I did the front end last Winter and I will have the rear completed this Winter...hopefully.