NAPA torque wrench [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: NAPA torque wrench


adavis
Oct 25th, 09, 12:23 PM
I just bought a NAPA micrometer style torque wrench. It was $80.00, I want to use it to build a 383. I have two Bar style wrench's that I used before. I wanted to upgrade. My question is, when you torque your bolt to the set torque rating there is a slight click release sound. I have a buddy that has one and it makes a louder click? Does this click sound level matter? :thumbsup:

MADNUTZ
Oct 25th, 09, 2:28 PM
I dont believe that the sound level of the click matters, its just teh indicator that the bolt is torqued to the pressure the wrench is set at.

daveseitz
Oct 25th, 09, 3:37 PM
You should be able to feel the click inn the handle.

BillK
Oct 25th, 09, 4:34 PM
Al,
Another thing that will affect it is what range the torque wrench has. If you have a 250lbft torque wrench and you are trying to use it on a 45lbft rod bolt it will not "click" as loud and also will not be very accurate. You need to be using a torque wrench near the center of its range for the best accuracy.

daveseitz
Oct 25th, 09, 4:54 PM
What Bill said actually applies to most gauges and measurement devices.

adavis
Oct 25th, 09, 4:57 PM
the range is 10-150. I was testing it a through the lower ranges. As long as its okay, I can build my engine knowing the wrench is good. Thanks:thumbsup:

Schurkey
Oct 25th, 09, 5:42 PM
If you want it to click louder, put a six-inch extension on the socket.

There are plenty of folks that will tell you that you did NOT "upgrade" when you went from the deflecting-bar style wrench to a micrometer/click-style. The deflecting bar torque wrenches--if designed and produced with integrity--are inherently about as accurate as a torque wrench gets. The main problem with them is operator error, and there's a BUNCH of different ways the operator can screw up when using them. The click-type wrenches are a lot more user-friendly but tend to be less accurate--especially at the lower end of both the price spectrum and the lower end of the torque setting.

I work with a click-style, but I do torque testing with a deflecting-bar style.

charbilly2001
Oct 26th, 09, 1:36 AM
If you want it to click louder, put a six-inch extension on the socket.

There are plenty of folks that will tell you that you did NOT "upgrade" when you went from the deflecting-bar style wrench to a micrometer/click-style. The deflecting bar torque wrenches--if designed and produced with integrity--are inherently about as accurate as a torque wrench gets. The main problem with them is operator error, and there's a BUNCH of different ways the operator can screw up when using them. The click-type wrenches are a lot more user-friendly but tend to be less accurate--especially at the lower end of both the price spectrum and the lower end of the torque setting.

I work with a click-style, but I do torque testing with a deflecting-bar style.

X2 for sure!

Brettd85
Oct 26th, 09, 2:56 PM
I think Shurkey and Bill are right on this one but I'm really not sure why this is. They are both springs, just working in different ways,,,

Schurkey
Oct 26th, 09, 3:13 PM
I think Shurkey and Bill are right on this one but I'm really not sure why this is. They are both springs, just working in different ways,,,
The deflection-bar unit has essentially two moving parts--the pivoting handle and the deflecting beam itself. If both are built properly--there's nothing to adjust or calibrate except to assure that the pointer is at "O" when no force is applied. I suppose temperature would affect accuracy--but in any reasonable environment things should be good-to-go.

I've never seen one with a ratchet head, hand position can affect indicated torque, parallax error will skew the results...the list goes on and on.

The click type has a whole mechanism that has to be calibrated to the spring tension of the unit. Lots easier to use--but more mechanical bits to wear or drift out of calibration.