I am in the middle of the B body swap, and I am looking for a set of tubluar upper A-arms. Which brand is better, for the price? Global West, Hotchkis, Spartan, Fat Man, is there any differance? graemlins/clonk.gif

I went Global...very pleased with the quality, fit, and finish.
The price...well... :(

I'm going with the Pole Positions adjustables... much cheaper, and great quality. Also, any possible alignment geometry is easy to achieve w/o the use of shims. They're $189 each. $388 is cheaper than $500+ last time I checked smile.gif

Or just stockers....my .02

Originally posted by dennis68:
Or just stockers....my .02 :confused: I thought there were clearance issues with headers because of too many shims needed for alignment???

True. *If* the car sits at stck ride height and *if* it didn`t have very many shims in it to begin with and *if* you`re not looking to run much - camber or + caster you "may" be able to get away with stock UCAs. But that`s a lot of *if*s. ;)

I couldn`t agree more about the Pole Position Adj. UCAs! You can get them for $369pr. from us at www.SCandC.com (http://www.SCandC.com) and save yourself $20. We also offer our own ProLite version with red anodized 6061 T-6 aluminum hex adj. sleeves for another $40. Marcus SC&C

Marcus, I'll be ordering from you real soon, that's the cheapest price I've seen on them :cool:

derek69ss, what do you mean by pole postions adjustables? Is that the brand?

http://www.polepositionrp.com/muscle_car_arms.htm

This is their website, but as you can see on Marcus's link to SC&C, they sell them for $20 cheaper than buying direct from Pole Positions.

will the Pole Position Adj, work with the b-body spindle?

from the Pole Positions Webpage:
**If the taller spindles are used, please order part number 9432 Adjustable Upper Control Arm. The 9432 includes the Flat Ball Joint Plate and does not require the 9430SP Lowering Kit.
Retail: $189.95 each

Yes, just order PN 9432 graemlins/thumbsup.gif

thanks they look great! Do they have lower a arms?

Marcus...I know of over a dozen guys with stock arms, some with a B/B and headers and no problems. Lowering an inch helps a bunch, but the Moog offest shafts spun around totally cures the problem.

Not knocking the Pole Position arms just stating that to run tall spindles the stock WILL work in every case that the "other" arms can.

Originally posted by bigred013183:
thanks they look great! Do they have lower a arms? Not that I know of. Aftermarket lower arms will do nothing for your suspension geometry. They just reduce weight, and add some strength. In my opinion, they wouldn't be worth the money unless serious racing was your only concern.

If you have welding/fab skills, you may want to check out Pete's website http://home.comcast.net/~petelohr/einstyn1/einstyn-09.htm to see how he reinforced his stock lower arms... and it's a great page to have bookmarked if you've got some other questions regarding your swap.

Dennis, do all of those guys have 68-72 chevelles? 64-67s have 1" narrower frames, so there's 1/2" less clearance than on the 68-72s.

Another one to consider is the Spartan (http://www.westcentralauto.com/chevelle.htm) arms at $379/pr. These arms have bumpstops. They've sold these cheaper before so maybe call and tell them you heard about the arms here and see if they'll cut you a deal. Promise to talk them up if they do.

The Pole Position arms will require cutting and/or bending of the upper a-arm mounts to clear the arms. The arm interferes with the pieces coming from the ends towards the outside of the frame. Don't know about the SC&C but they look the same. These arms don't have bumpstops.

Peter

I bought the McGaughy's upper A-Arms for my '68 Chevelle. They have a 4 deg. built-in caster. I have not installed them yet, but they look great for $250 a pair...

Theo.

Theo Those are for stock spindles not the tall B-body
correct?

The ones I bought are for the stock spindles. I do not know if they make them for the B-body ones. I am also using the spindle extenders by Dr. Gas.

Theo.

Dennis,I stand by my previous statements. I`ve had customer`s cars that are running that setup (not a dozen,two) and they think they`re fine but it`s impossible to use modern performance alignment specs with them,in fact it`s difficult to even get to stock specs. The upper BJ studs bind before the bump stops are fully compressed so I shimmed them. Yes you can do it but IMO it`s not a hot idea.

Peter,right you are. The PPR adj. UCAs require cutting 1.5" off of the extreme end of the front frame perch gusset and bending it inwards with a hammer for full rebound travel. That portion of the gusset is superfluous and the mod takes about 1 minute with a cut off wheel and ball peen. If the car`s lowered quite a bit with springs you can just hammer it over. Unless you`re running really worn out shocks and tall factory springs you`ll never miss the down travel stops. I`ve never seen a sign of contact between the arms and frames. Marcus

Like this (http://www.onrails.net/images/fendoverhaul109.jpg) . The mount is way over engineered. The circle track car mounts are much thinner and are just straight, no bend at either end for support. I think removing a little bit is OK.

i just hammered mine to the side a little. no where near as extream as the previous picture.
http://home.comcast.net/~petelohr/einstyn1/einstyn-09.htm