I'm installing a QA1 coil over conversion in my car. The engine is out for a rebuild.
I don't want to use a spring compressor, I loathe them, and the QA1 directions call for just carefully using a jack. Anyway..
I haven't examined the physics of this, but I have 550lb/in springs in the car now. Does it matter if the engine is in the car or not when removing the springs with a jack?
The whole kit looks nice, except I wish the sticker on the adjustment nob had numbers, its extremely hard to see or feel clicks with that little arrow deal they have.

Matt

If you're worried about it doing a backflip when you loosen the lower ball joint just set a bunch of heavy stuff on the crossmember. I've removed front springs a few times, but can't remember if I ever did it without an engine in the car. I never used a spring compressor.

Taking springs out is no big deal without the engine in the car. Just lower it slowly. I have done it a few times.

The trick is putting stock springs in a car with no engine. There is no weight to compress the spring to get the upper control arm attatched to the spindle.

Tim

I'm with Tim, Getting them back in is going to be hard with no weight. Getting them out should be a breez

Yup, Out is easy. In will require sandbags, or a few uh, bigger sized friends to stand on the K-member. ;)

I found that an easier way to take them out is to leave the lower ball joint attached and remove the 2 bolts that hold the lower control arm in and then lower it. I just used a floor jack and a prybar. I had no choice but to use a spring compressor to get it back in and even that was a challenge. They aren't the safest thing in the world, but if you take your time and do it the right way, you won't have any trouble. Oh yeah, and set it so that the spring bows a certain way, it makes it a little easier to get it back in. Good Luck.

Tom, that's the way the factory manual shows using a special jig to support the inner part of the LCA. I never thought about it, but it might be easier to get a full length stock spring back in the car that way because of the angles.

Cut the springs with a torch if you are worried about the springs flying.

Originally posted by TimG:
The trick is putting stock springs in a car with no engine. There is no weight to compress the spring to get the upper control arm attatched to the spindle.

Tim Here's how I installed my new QA-1 coil over shock kit onto a bare frame, with GW tubular uppers & lowers:

With the frame sitting up on jackstands, and the upper & lower A-arms bolted on, I cut a length of steel tubing to fit between the top of my frame, up to the ceiling of my shop. I then taped on a handful of shop rags at each end of the steel to keep from marring my powdercoated frame. With a floor jack under the lower A-arm, and the top of the QA-1 shock stud held in place by the nut, I slowly raised the lower A-arm enough to install the two lower shock mounting bolts. More jacking brought the spindle assembly upwards enough to meet the upper A-arm. Very slick trick, and both sides installed in less than an hour. Keep in mind, the QA-1 shock coil over adjustment ring will need to be down to within an inch of its lowest setting, or you'll have a bitch of a time getting the lower shock mounted.

A few pictures:

http://www.71protouringchevelle.com/021503-09.JPG

http://www.71protouringchevelle.com/021503-08.JPG