If there's a topic already about this please point me to it. Searching is taking forever :(

I'm at the point of fabbing new brake lines on my '71 Chevelle. B-body 12-inch front brakes with '68 Corvette MC (1 1/8" bore), with 11-inch Ford Explorer rear disks.

</font> Do I run 3/16" line to the rear or 1/4" line?</font> What reservoir on my MC feeds the front brakes?</font> Can I keep the stock distribution block or should I just nix it and run the rear line directly to the back with only the Wilwood adjustable prop. valve? The front I'd need a Tee junction, correct? Would a brass Tee work?</font>
I think that's it - for now smile.gif . Thanks in advance for the help.

Alan,
Run 3/16" line to your front wheels, a single 1/4" line to your back wheels with it splitting off at the diff. "T" to 3/16" line to the rear brakes.

I'm not quite familiar with the '68 Vette MC, but an e-mail to BC should put you in good hands for the info.

You can run your brass "T" with the adj. proportioning valve, but if it where me I would run the drum valve on the frame with the proportioning valve inline to the rear brakes (I'm a brake light warning switch kind of guy ;) ).

Joe

:cool: thanks Joe! I'll probably just reuse the old distribution block as I had 4-wheel drum brakes originally. Do I need to wind the brake lines into circles near the MC like the original lines are??

Alan,
I simply re-used the stock brake lines when I added the rear disks and everything works just fine. I even added some short rubber brake hoses at the ends to make caliper removal easier.

The 'circles' in the brakes line were there to absorb vibrations and such... helps to ease the strain on the lines and have them last longer. Not a bad idea to some slack in the lines, but not really sure you need the whole loops!

Good luck,
Bill C.

Alan,
Master Power uses this same master cylinder on their 4 wheel disk brake kits. Every car may require different cylinder volume and piston dia. dependinf if a booster is used or not. The front line goes to the front and the rear to the rear. 3/16 line will work. You may have to use an adapter fitting on the front for 3/16 line. Some master cylinders have two different sizes. It is important that you get enough fluid volume to these large pistons. A safety facor of about 20%, I believe is considered safe.

Team Member #74
1965 El Camino

That's for your help and tips guys. Things didn't work as planned though. First off, the new Ridgid double flare tool didn't work. I followed the directions but when you go to make the first flare, the tube just slides out of the flaring bar. I tried everything, but no go :mad: . I'm tired of this. I'll just have a local shop double flare as needed. $130 in flaring tools and not one double flare even made. Junk.

Second, the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve is causing me headaches. I can't figure out how to get a 1/4" line to tie into Wilwood's supplied fittings. Can anyone send me a few pictures of your setup so I can see how you made it work?? I'd appreciate it a lot.

I'm going to use the factory distribution block so I can order prefabed stock brake lines. It'll be easier on me. I'm at the end of my ropes with these brake lines. Nothing has been more difficult on this car since I bought than this. I can't get anything to go my way. Help me please!! smile.gif . What I could really use is info on the Wilwood prop valve install.

Thanks guys!

Your frustration with the Wilwood valve is shared.

I succeeded, but would need to look at the frame rail to see what I did 8 years ago.

I seem to remember a brass 1/4" pipe adapter to flare fitting, and putting a double flare on the line.

If you'd like me to check tomorrow, email me, referencing this thread. Car is near a frame-off, and at my shop across town...I'm over there for one reason or another almost every day.

fyi, what I did do never leaked.

JR

Now if you wanna talk major PITA, we can have a new thread on 'brake-lock'...