Hey everyone –

Sorry for posting on the Chevelle board, but since this is A-Body related I'm hoping someone can help.

I just purchased a disc brake kit to convert my front Drums to Disc on a 1966 Buick Skylark. The kit was supposed to come with an instructional video, but I can’t get it to work on my PC or DVD player so I have a bit of a problem – I desperately need some instructions for installation. I get the basics of how it goes together, but things like Torque specs and how the new proportioning valve work is a problem – and I have the car apart and ready to put the pieces on.

If anyone knows of instructions on-line, or as some they can scan/e-mail to me, it would be a lifesaver. The kit I’m using is from The Right Stuff Detailing for their GM A Bodys.

Thanks!

Albert

I suggest you ask someone to help you get the video to work. Probably easier than finding hard or soft copy of the instructions. Of course, you could always call RIght Stuff and tell them your problem. No everybody has a computer. They probably have a plan B.

I'm pretty computer savvy - I tried decrypting the video to my HD using DVD Decrypter but one of the VOB files are corrupt, and when I used AVIcodec to look at the DVD, there is no Audio Stream - so the DVD itself is broken smile.gif

Right Stuff is closed on the weekends, hence the urgency ;)

Search this forum for solutions to the individual problems. For instance, torque specs for the ball joints are listed in a thread just down the page: http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php/topic/7/9125.html

Is the proportioning valve adjustable? Or are you just looking for info on which side is upstream & which downstream? Seems like you should assemble what you can & then search for details. There are a bunch of sites that show some info, but I don't think any are a complete How-To. Check the WORKSHOP area of http://links.chevelles.net/links maybe something there to help.

Hi guys! The Skylark is the same as the Chevelle for changing the spindles, very easy to do. You can loosen the ball joint nuts approx showing 1/8th gap of nut clearance, and with a floor jak under the a frame, whack the taper ends of the spindle with a large hammer. When they both pop off the taper, then lift the floor jack under the a frame, unloading the ball joints, remove the nuts, and slowly lower the a frame to remove the spindle. If you leave the sway bar attached, there is less chance of the spring popping out, but keep the jack under and change that spindle directly, jack it back up, and reinstall the G.M. style combo valve, it has 5 ports. the two on the top come from the master. the end with the rubber button (metering valve end) goes to the front brakes. The two ports going to the front brakes are for 3/16" tubing. If you have a frame tee and only need to use one of the front brake ports, you can install a 3/16" inverted plug in the other port. Therear outlet port of the valve is a 9/16" thread which is the normal size going to the rear axle on a G.M. car with factory dual system. Since yours is not, you will need a 9/16" 18 thrd to 1/4" adaptor to connect to your rear axle brake line. I can supply you with any adaptors you need. Also, on the 64-66 A bodies. the fender well was not clearanced for 11" boosters. Those cars came with 9" boosters. We build an 8 3/4 dual dia booster that will clear, and has incredible stopping power. It is made by Delco, and not offshore like most mail order boosters If you need any parts or any tech help, you can call me at 800 504 1060 Bob

Great response Bob. When I have probs I hope you're around. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks very much for the help. The big problem was the need for a pre-bent line kit, because some of those smaller, tighter lines are really difficult to manage with a home tubing bender. Would have been nice to know that before buying the kit, would have saved me additional shipping costs...

Thanks again!