Anybody have experience with these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33564&item=7904591904&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

I like the idea of using the cheaper style rotors and dime a dozen metric calipers. Any thoughts?

Also, anyone have experience with this type of rear disc swap? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42605&item=2481527669&rd=1

Thanks!

Hey Adam,
I bought a set Febuary 26th. I have yet to install it. The sellers replaced the first set when they told me that they were cut incorrect. So I would give them high marks for standing behind what they have done.
http://www.scarebird.com/4436.html

I also like the price.
Recent discussions about warping s-10 rotors peaked my intrest. But i am still going ahead with the install when time alows (new pomotion at work has eaten all my free time). I know that someone must sell a high performance version of the 10.5 rotors. Seen all of the s10 V-8 conversion stuff? Since I do not plan on and autocross driving, just commuting/cruising, these should be more than enough.
check this link for the s10 rotor discussion.
s10 disc's? (http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=007869)
I to would like to talk with anyone who has finished this conversion. Anything disc has got to be beter than the drums on my 65 wagon.

John C.
Pensacola Fl
1965 2dr wagon project

With a bit of work and a set of caliper brackets from our sponsor, Ground UP, you could use your spindles and machine the top bolt boss, buy new rotors and rebuilt calipers and have disc brakes too. They'd be more correct.

Cam

Cam,

After doing some searching today, I found the info you're talking about. I just happen to have a vertical mill among other tools at my disposal at school so I'll be modifying my drum spindles to work.

Now, as far as master cylinders go - I plan on using stock chevelle rotors/calipers on front, and 82-88 camaro front calipers on the rear. What bore MC should I use for my MANUAL 4 wheel disc setup? I was looking at this master cylinder (http://secureperformanceorder.com/usbrakestore/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=3&ClassID=38&SubclassID=1548&ProductID=6254) by US Brake, it is a 1" bore. Will it move enough fluid, or should I look into the '68 corvette 1 1/8 MC?

I also plan on using a stock distribution block with a wilwood adjustable prop valve plumbed in after the distribution block.

Do my plans sound OK?

TTT graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Shoot Adam, if you have a mill at your disposal, you're home free. I took the spindle, bolted the caliper bracket to the lower steering arm hole and swung the caliper bracket over until it touched the upper boss. I scribed a line on the upper boss where the bottom surface of the bracket hit. That is the plane that the bracket wants to rest on. The machined surface on the far side of the steering arm ears are machined square to the line of the spindle so, mount the caliper on the mill bed using a pair of 1,2,3 blocks and a pair of bed clamps. Tighten them down good. I hacked sawed off the majority of the boss and then cleaned up the mating side of the boss, down to the line you scribed earlier. Does this make any sense?? Shoot me a note if not. I should have taken pictures when I have done mine. Maybe I'll set it up and take pictures if it's not clear. Good luck!!!

Cam

I'm with Cam. If you have access to a mill it should be pretty easy to machine the boss and make standard Chevelle brakes fit. Standard Chevelle parts are not all that expensive either, so IMO it makes more sense than buying $95 brackets and still have to machine the hub to make it fit. There has been several posts about this (with pictures and dimensions) so if you search the archives here on TC you should find the info you need. If I remember correctly, the only issue was that the bolt that goes into the boss is a different diameter on drum and disc spindles, but that should be a minor problem.

If you go this route, don't forget to take pix and post the result! smile.gif

Edit: I looked at some previous posts, and it seems like the bolt hole needs to be drilled a bit deeper and rethreaded. Did you do that, Cam? Also, the stock brackets can be hard to come by, but there's reproductions you can buy if you can't get used ones. MP brakes or any other aftermarket brake supplier should have them in stock. Don't know how much they are though.

69 and later spindles have the big bolts, both upper boss and lower steering arm bolts. No need for additonal machining there. On pre-69 spindles, I did indeed drill out the upper boss and retapped. IF I remember correctly you don't want to go any deeper or you'll go out the back of the spindle. I machined a couple of spacers to go around the steering arm bolts, the thickness of the caliper bracket because the 69 and later bolts are larger in diameter. The brackets are available from our sponsor, Ground UP and with your TC discount end up being $85 or so. Hope this helps.......

Cam

If all you have are the spindles, the other parts will add up. The Right Stuff sells a mini-kit for around $250.00 which has spindles, caliper brackets, backing plates, and the center bolt that attaches the bracket to the spindle.

Originally posted by John_Muha:
If all you have are the spindles, the other parts will add up. The Right Stuff sells a mini-kit for around $250.00 which has spindles, caliper brackets, backing plates, and the center bolt that attaches the bracket to the spindle. Is that for Chevelle or S-10 parts?

Originally posted by Olle:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by John_Muha:
If all you have are the spindles, the other parts will add up. The Right Stuff sells a mini-kit for around $250.00 which has spindles, caliper brackets, backing plates, and the center bolt that attaches the bracket to the spindle. Is that for Chevelle or S-10 parts? </font>[/QUOTE]Got my brain cells mixed up. Saw it on Ground Up's site.
http://www.ss396.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=396&Product_Code=FSK-69

Excellent info guys graemlins/thumbsup.gif

It'll a month or two before I start doing this, but I'll take pictures and document the process so everyone else can know how to do it.

We have done this conversion. Go to all of the other posts on the TC Site, and you can see what we needed for parts, etc. Note what parts we used, and why we went with this conversion.

As to the master cylinder, Bob @ TRW Tech is helping with this. The part number he gave us is Autospecialty Master Cylinder M82071 (1 1/8” Bore), which is a Corvette Master Cylinder. We're emailing him on the final parts we need for the rear drums (Misc. parts), and he will confirm that master cylinder number today.

Hope this helps.

graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Heck, just have them made to fit the 1988 'Vette 13" front rotors by locating the caliper "cut-out" and caliper guide bolt holes out the needed extra amount like I put on my car along with the big, wide, Van type single piston calipers.

I'm going to shim my inner pad b/c the Vette rotor is only 1.10" thick whereas I should have used the H/D 1.25" thick rotor to match the wider caliper but I didn't know about it at the time.

I also used two piece hubs turned down a schosh so the rotor hat and the center locating boss was just kissed..

I think you can use either spindle by shimming b/c of the extra clearance of the two piece hub..

pdq67