Just got done putting the 2" drop spindles disc brake conversion kit on my 70 Chevelle and when I lowered the floor jack the wheels are now out of line (top of tires are slanted and rubbing the wheelwells when I turn the steering wheel). Did I miss something or do I have to put a different control arm on? Any suggestions appreciated. I don
"t think it is the steering arm that is causing this problem because the wheels are pointed straight.

It would help to know something about the spindles you used. If the spindles are the same height (about 7.5 inches) as the original spindles (measured between the ball joints), then the spindles should fit the same as the originals and I don't have any ideas. If the dropped spindles measure about 8.75 inches then you have tall spindles and I may know what the problem is. Tall spindles, if used with the stock upper control arm in it's original position will cause the tops of the wheels to angle toward the outside of the car (positive camber). This positive camber needs to be adjusted to zero by installing shims and/or an offset shaft on the upper control arm. This will move the top of the wheels in. Aftermarket arms from Global West or Hotchkis are shorter and will do the same thing without the extra shims.

Again, if your spindles are supposed to be direct replacements for stock then there shouldn't be a problem, but if your spindles are the tall variety (as used on 73 and up A-bodies or F-bodies or B-bodies) then the upper control arm is probably the issue. That's the only idea I have.

Bruce

That is one of the problems with drop spindles, it can over lower the car and the tires will hit the sheet metal before the suspension bump stop contact. You may have to put taller springs in to raise the car up a little. 2" on a Chevelle is alittle excessive for the suspension and the sheet metal to take. This is why I use the stock spindles and 1.25" drop springs. I don't have happy answer, except to call the supplier of the Spindles to see what they say.

I thought of a couple more ideas. Steering axis inclination is the angle of the spindle with respect to the support. There could be a difference between the old and new spindles in this area. It would also create a change in camber. The bottom line is to have the front end aligned to make sure the camber is zero.

Tires and wheels can be an issue. Tire and wheel clearance becomes more restrictive when you lower the car down around the wheels. You may need to downsize tire size and rim width to get more clearance to the sheetmetal.

Much thanks for the replies!
Bruce-I measured the spindles and they are the same size as the old ones (7.50" or less).
(Have a gut feeling the springs may be the problem like Q-ship mentioned.) Will get it to an alignment shop first and see if they can shim it up some to camber it to zero. (If I don't tear the wheelwhells off before I get there) Any idea on springs if need be? I would hate to change rim size or have to put more money into new control arms.
Thanks again for the input..

You can purchase Moog springs from your local parts store for about $70 a pair. I got heavy-duty small block springs instead of the regular ones. MOOG part # MOG 5390. I'm assuming your running a b/block since you're a 70SS so this may not help you! If you can find a store that is locally-owned and the owner races or has hotrods, chances are he'll have several suppliers to choose from. If you put new springs in the car and it sits too tall for your likings, you can lower it by cutting the springs 1/4 round at a time. It's time consuming but it beats buying new springs because you cut too much off. Also be sure to roll the car back and forth a couple of feet to let the frontend settle. This needs to be done each time the car has been jacked up. It also wouldn't hurt to bounce the frontend too. Hope this helps. graemlins/waving.gif

I am have the same issue, did this ever get resolved? If so, what was your fix?