I am doing a front drum to disc conversion on my '67 and I am not sure how to plumb this thing. I have an aftermarket ajustable proportioning valve and the stock distribution block on the frame. The master cyl. is a dual version. Where do I start? The original master cyl. was a single with only the one line going to the distribution block.

THAT ADJUSTABLE PROP VALVE CAN ONLY TURN DOWN PRESSURE TO THE REAR BRAKES. IT DOES NOT HAVE THE METERING VALVE FOR THE FRON BRAKES. THE PURPOSE OF A METERING VALVE IS TO HOLD OFF PRESSURE TO THE FRONT BRAKES UNTIL THERE IS ENOUGH PRESSURE TO OVERCOME THE REAR SHOE RETURN SPRINGS. ONCE THE SHOES HIT THE DRUMS, PRESSURE BUILDS UNTIL THE METERING VALVE OPENS AT ABOUT 180 PSI. THEN FLUID GOES IN TO THE CALIPERS. OTHERWISE, FLUIDGOES TO THE CALIPERS FIRST, CAUSINF PREMATURE PAD WEAR. IF YOU WANT TO REPLACE THAT FRAME MOUNTED WARNING LIGHT SWITCH, (DRUM BRAKES CARS ONLY CAME WITH A SWITCH, NO PROP VALVE) YOU CAN MOUNT THE COMBO METERING/PROP VALVE ON THE SIDE OF THE MASTER CYL. THIS GIVES YOU MORE HEADER CLEARANCE IF YOU NEED IT. IF YOU WANT TO USE THE ADJUSTABLE. IT GOES TO THE REAR BRAKES. THE PORT ON THE MASTER FOR THE REARS IS THE SMALLER RESERVOIR, USING THE 9/16" THREADED PORT. RUN A LINE FROM THAT PORT TO THE "IN" OF THE ADJ VALVE, AND OUT TO THE REAR AXLE. THE OTHER PORT GOES STRAIGHT DOWN TO A FRAME TEE, TO SUPPLY BOTH FRONTS. IF YOU HAVE A MANUAL TRANS, MANUAL MASTER CYL MIGHT BE O.K. IF YOU RUN AN AUTOMATIC TRANS, YOU WILL NEED A POWER BRAKE UNIT TO BUILD THE OVER 1000PSI NEEDED TO WORK THOSE DISC BRAKES. BOB

thanks for the information Bob. I'm off to find a metering/prop valve.