Well, as the name of the thread implies, I need another project like I need another hole in my head.

However, I couldn't pass on this nearly mint '77 Chevy truck a buddy of mine at work was going to crush. I couldn't bear to see that happen, so I told him I'd take it home and make it just like new again. :)

With a little bit of welding and some elbow grease, she'll be a real show stopper in no time. Here's some pic's...

Just needs a good buffing...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00460.jpg

She's clean and straight...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00461.jpg

Best of all she's got a 454 !!!

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00462.jpg

Now if you guys actually believe all that crap, then you must be on glue. :D

I just want the 454 and turbo 400 out of it. I'm hoping it's a 4 bolt with a steel crank. If it is in fact a 4 bolt, it will get cleaned up and stored safely until funds surface in the next couple years to acquire a stroker setup. I think the Punisher would hustle pretty good with 496 cubic inches of rat power. But that's way later. Tons of other stuff to do before then.

But it sure is cool to be ready. ;)

This pic is for Darryl...he'll understand :D
Roxy says Hi...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00459.jpg

That thing has possibilities. It has less rust than Dave's car did when he started.

Lol, I was going to tell you that you are crazy and that I would have crushed it. :yes:

Good your getting the drivetrain though. Janet is going to love this one when she sees it! :hurray:

Oh yeah, Brett. She's probably over there fretting as we speak.
I may just roll it down to the road and leave it for awhile so she can enjoy the subtle pleasures of a major eyesore.

This thing is so rusty, when I unbolted the front clip to take it off, there wasn't a solid hand hold anywhere on the fenders to lift from. It just kind of crumbled. I may need a tetanus shot before I'm done.

Check out the asphalt shingle fender patches on the rear drivers wheel well. :beers:

Would that be a redneck or a ghetto repair ? :confused: :D

hmm redneck or ghetto....... i dunno but it seems like the patches color match well! good deal on a bb th400 tho!

All you need is some bondo and a hammer and you're good. Since I'm currently working in Rainier Beach, it'd fit right in...

That's backwoods repair, no rednecks or ghetto dwellers visit that neighborhood. Nor do they know it exists.

Would that be a redneck or a ghetto repair ? :confused: :D

Canadian Hick.

We can fix it!

You just need these... http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cc/ccbd2-1977-chevy-c10.htm

one of these...
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?category%7ccat_-25%7c347=Hoods&partfamilyid=3189

a case of this http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1876643&CAWELAID=344292292

and finally some of this http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=POR+1PSB

then rip the bed off, make her a stake side flat bed and you're "beauty-eh?"

Good score, alot of those trucks go to the recycle yard with bbc's. It's a good bet it has 4 bolt mains but probably not a forged crank in '77, there's still a chance it dose though. Other than that, the hub caps and front bumper look decent:thumbsup:

hmmm...I will have to think of some parts that may have survived on that truck that I may need for my '77 K20. The air cleaner is one that springs to mind. Perhaps a couple of interior parts if they are not in too bad of shape.

Just let me know, Erik. You can have anything you want. The front chrome bumper is perfect. I need to keep the diff in it to make it on the trailer, but the driveshaft and steady bearing I don't need.

The rest of the body is totally shot. The gauges and dash are ok, as are the emblems and badges.

Other than that, this pig is out of here by the weekend, before I get a citation for hazardous waste.

wow i almost pi$$ed myself laughing

WOW, that thing has served someone well.

I could set that thing outside and let the wind slowly blow it away, flake by flake.

Good Lord! I thought to myself that you had lost it John, until I saw the 3rd picture. Good Score.

Check out the asphalt shingle fender patches on the rear drivers wheel well. :beers:

Would that be a redneck or a ghetto repair ? :confused: :D

Canadian Hick.


... Hoser ;)

You should have never posted the fourth picture, Brett's in Love now.

You should have never posted the fourth picture, Brett's in Love now.

Ha, I got more bitches than I can handle. :p

boy you had me going---then I see the big block...and oh!!so sweet..nice find for free

Hope you find your 4bolt.

So is it? Get that pan of ASAP.

Won't actually have it out until tomorrow night, or Friday morning.

Lots of family committments next 48 hours. Hoping for the 4 bolt on Friday morning.

Haven't pulled the valve cover to see what heads they are, but I would strongly suspect peanut ports in this application.

Won't actually have it out until tomorrow night, or Friday morning.

Lots of family committments next 48 hours. Hoping for the 4 bolt on Friday morning.

Haven't pulled the valve cover to see what heads they are, but I would strongly suspect peanut ports in this application.

Nope, I'll bet you they are 781's.

Is it a 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton. Looks like a 1/2 ton.

If 1/2 or 3/4 ton I suspect higher probabiility of a cast crank 2-bolt. If a one ton, chances are btter but I'd still bet on a 2 bolt cast crank.

Thing is, I believe the engine should be light blue in 77, not orange, so it may not be original to the truck and all bets would then be off.

its got an early style ps pump on it, so engine might not be original......

I love the patina on that thing.

It's a 3/4 ton.

When pulling off the exhaust manifolds, the bolts came right out, with only reasonable torque. I thought they might've been more seized if original ? Would be cool if earlier model 454...higher nickel content...better chance of a 4 bolt ???

I'm going to sneak out tonight after the family duties, and get some more done. With any luck I'll be able to find some casting #'s in the dark.

This wrenching outside in the gravel is for the birds...and young bucks.

It's a 3/4 ton.

When pulling off the exhaust manifolds, the bolts came right out, with only reasonable torque. I thought they might've been more seized if original ? Would be cool if earlier model 454...higher nickel content...better chance of a 4 bolt ???

I'm going to sneak out tonight after the family duties, and get some more done. With any luck I'll be able to find some casting #'s in the dark.

This wrenching outside in the gravel is for the birds...and young bucks.

Just watch out for Spiderzilla! He visited me a few months back when I was crawling around under TW. Not cool when you're on a creeper and all you can see is where your flashlight is pointing straight up :sad:

Hey Cobalt, what part of Rainier Beach you working in? That's about 5 minutes from my house.

Nope, I'll bet you they are 781's...

Doc knows his craft. :yes:

781's they are. :thumbsup:

Unbolted/drained/snipped everything in preparation for the removal. Just need to grab my engine hoist off my buddy (whom I share the trailer with...we share pretty much everything but wives :) ), and that orange painted, grease encrusted high miler 454 is on the stand.

Doggone it, I'm sure hoping for a 4 bolt. There was so much grease and grime on it, I couldn't make out the casting #'s at the back of the block. That, and it was getting late and dark, and I was starting to snivel. ;)

Been there, done that.:D

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/truck3.jpg

There's no grease and grime on that motor. It's way to clean.

Is that the engine in your Chevelle ?

BTW, I have some cool pic's from golf if you want them.

It is the block, nothing else was good enough to use.

Send the pics to the e-mail.

The one I just pulled apart was a 361959 block that came out of a 73-78 era 3/4 ton John. It had 781 heads as well. Unfortunatly it was only a 2 bolt and it turned out to be a cast crank but it does have thumb rods. Mortec says that block can be either 2 or 4 so here is hoping your is a 4. I have to learn how to say no even if it is a good deal. I have a one car garage and have a 366, a 402, a 427 and a 454 block down there!

The one I just pulled apart was a 361959 block that came out of a 73-78 era 3/4 ton John. It had 781 heads as well. Unfortunatly it was only a 2 bolt and it turned out to be a cast crank but it does have thumb rods.
John's should be a 959 as well and if I was a betting man, I'd say 2-bolt cast crank.


I have to learn how to say no even if it is a good deal. I have a one car garage and have a 366, a 402, a 427 and a 454 block down there!

I know what you mean! :D

John's should be a 959 as well and if I was a betting man, I'd say 2-bolt cast crank.



I know what you mean! :D

John did mention that walking into your shop was like walking into a wal-mart of big blocks! LOL

The one I have was from '76 one ton duelly, 4 bolt mains, cast crank.

That, and it was getting late and dark, and I was starting to snivel. ;)

Whiner:sad: Get it done boy, get it done:yes:

Nice score!! Hope its a 4 bolt, I better hurry and get your porting stuff back to you so you can go to work on the heads:D

jeez this is like waiting to see if its a boy or girl! haha

Hey Cobalt, what part of Rainier Beach you working in? That's about 5 minutes from my house.

I'm working at the Darigold plant off Rainier Ave. and N. Dakota street....just south of the Safeway(that my previous employer remodeled). Lights, lights, and more lights.....energy conservation is what this company does, supposedly 600 jobs on the books. I'll be busy, that's for sure.

Lights, lights, and more lights.....energy conservation is what this company does, supposedly 600 jobs on the books. I'll be busy, that's for sure.


Sure beats loafing around the shop, scratching yourself, and wondering what you're gonna do that day.....:cool:


:noway:


With the new job, does this mean CHROME PLATED Jericho, Quick Change center section, and other exotica?

Sure beats loafing around the shop, scratching yourself, and wondering what you're gonna do that day.....:cool:


:noway:


With the new job, does this mean CHROME PLATED Jericho, Quick Change center section, and other exotica?

HA!!! I've kept myself busy for the most part of my time off, albeit at my own pace and time schedule, helping Dad move took a month of that time. I like structure, it keeps me busy and focused plus earning a paycheck feels better than getting unemployment(pays better too). So far everybody at work is cool.

The new job just means I can buy that S60 without feeling guilty about it sometime in the next few months....looked at the quick-change option last week, Winters doesn't make one for an A-body 4-link setup:D. Exotica....possibly the A/F meter setup, maybe a dedicated nitrous fuel system(already planned, just didn't spend the money), and some drag racing tires/wheels. No chrome on the Jerico.

Just waiting for the penetrating oil to work on the bumper bolts. I dont have enough lift in my engine hoist to clear it.

It is a 959 block. Almost ready to pop the pan off and see what we've got.

look at the crank flange by the converter....you should be able to see
Sure wish John the best....

Just waiting for the penetrating oil to work on the bumper bolts. I dont have enough lift in my engine hoist to clear it.

It is a 959 block. Almost ready to pop the pan off and see what we've got.

Sawzall the bottom of the oil pan off already, easiest way to find out what it is inside.:D

let the air out of the tires

geez, I think Janet "offed" him!

I would just take a sawzall to it.

put your hoist up on cinder blocks or something already...

And........it's a 2 bolt.

Oh well. Still nice to have a spare 454 in the wings.

At the end of the day, I'm still happy with the score.
$400 to my buddy at work, on the "whenever I can spare it plan."

What I get:

* a decent orange block 454 with 781 heads and truck rods
* all the pulleys, brackets, water pump, alternator and hei and good wires
* a turbo 400 trans that will probably bring $100
* a mint chrome front bumper that will probably fetch $40
* some misc. pieces for Erik for his Chevy truck
* a crushable carcass that my buddy Jeff will probably get $125 for, which I'll donate to the "Thanks for lending me a car trailer fund"
* the satisfaction of saving a big block from the crusher, and making a viable powerplant out of it again
* the sick pleasure of gutting a hideous wreck in the front yard, much to the dismay of my anal neighbors.

All in all, I'd say it was an awesome score. ;)

I feel your sick pleasure John....I would love to gut some POS in my front yard in front of my neighbors. I think a couple of them would keel over as soon as the hood goes up. Still thinking about putting the chevelle in the front yard and use that exhaust to put some gophers to sleep, I'm sure the H.O.A. will love that.:D

And........it's a 2 bolt.

Oh well. Still nice to have a spare 454 in the wings.

At the end of the day, I'm still happy with the score.
$400 to my buddy at work, on the "whenever I can spare it plan."

What I get:

* a decent orange block 454 with 781 heads and truck rods
* all the pulleys, brackets, water pump, alternator and hei and good wires
* a turbo 400 trans that will probably bring $100
* a mint chrome front bumper that will probably fetch $40
* some misc. pieces for Erik for his Chevy truck
* a crushable carcass that my buddy Jeff will probably get $125 for, which I'll donate to the "Thanks for lending me a car trailer fund"
* the satisfaction of saving a big block from the crusher, and making a viable powerplant out of it again
* the sick pleasure of gutting a hideous wreck in the front yard, much to the dismay of my anal neighbors.

All in all, I'd say it was an awesome score. ;)

Nice!:thumbsup:

Hey you gotta start somewhere, 25 more and you can hit Doc up for a franchise... "BBC Emporium North".

Nothing wrong with the 2 bolt, you could always buy some 4 bolt caps on ebay and make yours a 4 bolt.

Splay it! :D

and then spray it!:hurray:

Nice!:thumbsup:

Hey you gotta start somewhere, 25 more and you can hit Doc up for a franchise... "BBC Emporium North".

Hey! I am after that franchise! I have 5 now including the one in the car. How many more do I need to qualify?

Hey! I am after that franchise! I have 5 now including the one in the car. How many more do I need to qualify?

Kenny Bernstein and Warren Johnson combined aren't even close. :noway:

It's going to take a bit more accumulating, Terry. :beers:

Hey! I am after that franchise! I have 5 now including the one in the car. How many more do I need to qualify?

Technically, in the franchise manual on page 21, section 4.A.1, it states one cannot count "in vehicle BB's" towards the net hoarding number. If that was the case I would have added 7 to my 31 hoarded and would have put me in to the next realm of BB hoarding greatness.

The good news is on Pg 11, section 7.B.1 you have reached BB Knighthood. :thumbsup:

Nothing wrong with the 2 bolt, you could always buy some 4 bolt caps from Kettbo and make yours a 4 bolt.

fixed

stock bolts on 2-bolt main work way better than you'd think. The massive construction and healthy cap registering does a great job keeping the bearings in place (way better than SBC stuff works). If I was going to 6000-6500 all the time (not my current 5100--5200) would go ARP main bolts. Above that, Studs.

I noted my 454V2 has been align honed already so will just run ARP bolts...cam will be done at 6500. This leaves some spare 4-bolt main caps and short outer bolts as surplus.

Technically, in the franchise manual on page 21, section 4.A.1, it states one cannot count "in vehicle BB's" towards the net hoarding number. If that was the case I would have added 7 to my 31 hoarded and would have put me in to the next realm of BB hoarding greatness.

The good news is on Pg 11, section 7.B.1 you have reached BB Knighthood. :thumbsup:

Looks like the whole chevelles.com site is going to have to pool to even get close. LOL

Sounds like the identical block to the one I just tore down.
Mine had a 353039 crank with an "N" on the end of the number. I would assume this just means nodular?
It also had TAM and then a series of numbers engraved into it wil a hand type engraver. I could not figure out what that was all about Then I remebered there was a machine shop not far from John called Thompsons. I called them and he said it would mean Thompson Automotive Machine and that it would be a crank that they balanced

fixed

stock bolts on 2-bolt main work way better than you'd think. The massive construction and healthy cap registering does a great job keeping the bearings in place (way better than SBC stuff works). If I was going to 6000-6500 all the time (not my current 5100--5200) would go ARP main bolts. Above that, Studs.

I noted my 454V2 has been align honed already so will just run ARP bolts...cam will be done at 6500. This leaves some spare 4-bolt main caps and short outer bolts as surplus.

That's me. :thumbsup: Over 100 passes and counting. :D

I do have ARP bolts from pan to intake manifold already in my current engine.

What is involved in making a 2 bolt a 4 bolt ?
And, if I did build a stroker, would a studded bottom end be the way to go ?

Thanks for the insight.

If your having the block machined, then stud the bottom end at the same time it gets main line honed. On some 4 bolt blocks, when the studs are added in place of bolts without honing the main line for them, it can pull the ends of the caps slightly making the main bearing clearences greater. Nothing wrong with just using good bolts though on a 4 bolt block, if your going stroker on a 2 bolt I would go with studs just for the piece of mind.
Daryl would now better than me on his stuff, but I think you can use 4 bolt caps as a guid and have the machinst drill and tap your bolck to use the 4 bolt caps. Splayed caps are nice, but expensive and not needed on a bbc unless your going huge blower engine or something.

Are you guys talking studs like these? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-135-5402/# If so, seems pretty reasonable if they are that much better than bolts

Really scrounging for content to post, so thought I'd just throw some pic's up. :D

The filthy few...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00468.jpg

Original interior...you can actually see the fleas jumping if you look closely... :eek:
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00465.jpg

How to drop property values $50 K overnight...:beers:
At least I'm not running a meth lab or grow op...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w167/Out66Cast/DSC00469.jpg

At least I'm not running a meth lab or grow op...[/B]

]

Sure would help to offset some of the costs of your raceing addiction!

I agree with the above mentioned as far as stock bolts, then ARP bolts, then studs, and of course splayed caps w/ARP bolts/studs.

It is critical to have an align hone done with the same fasteners as you are going to use. Clamping force between bolts and studs is different(studs obviously have more clamping force due to lack of friction being generated on the threads in the block when torquing).

Splayed caps are nice, but expensive and not needed on a bbc unless your going huge blower engine or something.

Splayed caps are generally around $700-$800 to have done at a good machine shop not including the more reasonable($$$) caps you can buy yourself...there are also more exotic choices. I will be having my 454 block done with splayed caps when the time comes....not taking any chances. Mike is right about forced induction applications needing more bearing support. Just remember this, a splayed cap 2 bolt original block(making it a 4 bolt splayed cap block) is stronger than a 4 bolt original block with non-splayed caps(or with splayed caps for that matter, block webbing issues, etc.).

The block I used for mine is a 2 bolt and I chose to run ARP studs just for piece of mind. The block is not align honed, talked to the machine shop and they bolted the caps in place and checked the block for straightness. So far, so good. I was sorta glad I didn't have to have it done, with the TKO as picky as it is for alignment, I didn't want to screw too much with scattershield alignment.

Of course, I don't know what the bearings look like..............................

The block I used for mine is a 2 bolt and I chose to run ARP studs just for piece of mind. The block is not align honed, talked to the machine shop and they bolted the caps in place and checked the block for straightness. So far, so good. I was sorta glad I didn't have to have it done, with the TKO as picky as it is for alignment, I didn't want to screw too much with scattershield alignment.

Of course, I don't know what the bearings look like..............................

Spray it Mark,, :D

4-bolt main with stock bolts is mighty tough. Gotta agree there....
Only real serious 4-bolt engines need studs.

The 2-bolt to 4 bolt conversion requires one, maybe two sets of caps in order to get the best fit that requires minimal machining. The mating surface gets a shave. If required, the edges of the caps where they fit in the block registers may also get a shave on one side or another to center cap on the bore. If any gap or looseness in the register then the edges of the register get peened over to fill the void, stop lateral cap movement. Then the outer holes are drilled and tapped. After this, the machinist makes the new alignment being careful to barely touch the block saddles, most of the cutting/honing is into the caps.

FYI, there is also a procedure where the 2-bolt caps get cuts to allow Allen had fasteners of a lesser diameter in the outer position, caps 1-4.

Cobalt, probably going a bit over the top with BBC splayed bolt but hey, so is the Jericho, the dual back-up hydraulic system, and the James Bond hidden weapons.:D

These guys are pretty proud of their parts, $400 per cap!
http://www.strokerkits.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=114&flypage=flypage.tpl&pop=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

$229 for a set of three center caps from Milodon
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-11200/#

Good info. Thanks guys.
Definitely something to think about in the future.

I'd be thinking splayed caps if 650 horse...
If I keep the 454v1, it may get improved as it is a std bore unit, worth some of the costs.

By the time you do a few of the upgrades, might as well step up to a Dart Block.
Doc, ya listening?

4-bolt main with stock bolts is mighty tough. Gotta agree there....
Only real serious 4-bolt engines need studs.

Cobalt, probably going a bit over the top with BBC splayed bolt but hey, so is the Jericho, the dual back-up hydraulic system, and the James Bond hidden weapons.:D



I hear ya...but if you're gonna do it(modify a 2-bolt block that is), you may as well do it right, ONCE. I don't have the money or ambition(sometimes the time) to replace parts weekly like the rich guys do or have other people do it for them so I buy parts that go in for intended long duration of service life. Nothing wrong with buying good or great parts(BTW, my hydroboost unit came out of a Buick T-Type car, so it's a factory part). No hidden weapons.

I'd be thinking splayed caps if 650 horse...
If I keep the 454v1, it may get improved as it is a std bore unit, worth some of the costs.

By the time you do a few of the upgrades, might as well step up to a Dart Block.
Doc, ya listening?

I agree with your assessment 650HP+ would be a definite candidate for at least std. style 4 bolt caps with ARP bolts. I'm looking at twice that with a twin turbo setup under full-boost conditions(going to do it, no ifs ands or buts on this decision). I'll have to look up the Dart block specs/upgrades vs. price but off the top of my head if you already have a GM block and don't need a whole lot of machining done other than splayed caps, the Dart block may not be worth it???

OK, forgot about the turbo ambitions

Why a dart block
Priorty main oiling
BIG BORES for better breathing MORE CUBES
THICKER CYL WALLS and thicker main webbing
Thicker walls in the valleys, thicker decks
Precision machining
oh turbo one, BETTER CYL HEAD CLAMPING with the extra bolt provision
lots more if you read some of the literature.

And, if you buy now, they throw in a James Bond rear-firing 350.

I wouldnt be worried about a BBC block 750+ horse, stud it.

1000+ fill the sucker and let er rip.:yes:

Your rods are going to let go before your block does

I will do some reading, thanks for the info. George. Definitely lots of things on the plus side you mentioned....I should seriously look at aftermarket options now that you wrote those things down. So, am I 0067 now(like 007)?:D

After reading Brian's post, I realized it may be good to address whether the block(s) in question are used for drag-race-only use, or street use as well. I'm pretty sure I'll never fill an engine block up with block filler, but John may have different intentions than most of us.

I'd just think with a lotta boost the aftermarket block has it all over the factory production stuff; bulk, metalurgy, oiling, precision machining. All this at the cost of $2500-$3000 IIRC. I'm pretty darn cheap. However, I'f I had the bucks for twin turbo, Jericho, etc, etc, and an ejection seat....I'd be thinking an aftermarket block so it holds together. Depends on the boost level.
Ask Wolfie sometime where the deciding power level is.

The Car Gods are Smiling On Me.

I just took in on trade this morning a '93 S 10 reg cab shortbox pickup. 4 cyl 5 speed, with 120,000 miles on it. The paint is similar to the 3/4 ton I just crushed, but the body is truly mint.

I bought it for $100, and I'm going to take it home for my 11 and 13 yr old sons to learn how to drive on. :thumbsup:

There are miles of powerline roads within 1/2 mile of my house, and an old mill site that the boys ride their mini bike at. This will be a good intro to driving, and learning a standard transmission. I'll make sure to hide the keys when I'm not home.

I did, however, spend a little time this morning on the V8 S10 website, just to see what's involved in dropping a 454 into one. :beers:

$100, thats awesome! :eek: Lucky kids! :yes:

I did, however, spend a little time this morning on the V8 S10 website, just to see what's involved in dropping a 454 into one.


LOL that's where I thought you were heading.:D

I'd just think with a lotta boost the aftermarket block has it all over the factory production stuff; bulk, metalurgy, oiling, precision machining. All this at the cost of $2500-$3000 IIRC. I'm pretty darn cheap. However, I'f I had the bucks for twin turbo, Jericho, etc, etc, and an ejection seat....I'd be thinking an aftermarket block so it holds together. Depends on the boost level.
Ask Wolfie sometime where the deciding power level is.

I'm there with you on that train of thought and I did look at the Dart block choices last night. Would probably just go with the Big M block(around $2,800-$2,900). I can be cheap, but being cheap gets expensive after awhile when parts break unexpectedly....and sometimes at the expense of safety. The priority oiling system is really what has me interested. I've learned that lesson, and am trying to avoid it as much as possible. I will ask about boost vs. power level and associated factors. I should call the build "Over budget 454";).

Sweet deal on the S10 John, nothing like a cheap truck for your kids to learn on.....well, except for heavy equipment to learn to drive on(how I learned).

... Lucky kids! :yes:

Give them about 15 years and they might realize that they had it pretty good. Until then, I'll keep trying to be SuperDad. :)

I did, however, spend a little time this morning on the V8 S10 website, just to see what's involved in dropping a 454 into one. :beers:

How convienient that you just happen to have a spare 454 t-400 laying around.:thumbsup:

I've always wanted to do a v-8 S-10, Your kids will love it

v8 s10's are fun little donut trucks, had a couple friends with em, never been in one with a 454 though.