Roof Install my step by step guide [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Roof Install my step by step guide


crazychevelleman
Sep 22nd, 09, 8:15 PM
So, you want to install your own roof skin? You will need:
1. Air cutoff tool
2. Cutting discs
3. Grinding discs
4. Air chisel
5. Por-15
6. welder (tig or mig)
7. Spot weld cutter
8. Air punch/Flange tool
9. Magna spotwelder
10. 3M Ultrapro Seam Sealer (Gray) - 08370
11. Weld thrue primer
12. Plenty of patience

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4565.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4566.jpg
This first pic shows the Air chisel and air cut off tool. When you cut near the drip rails or edge of the window trim area always "cut back" so that you will have room to address the drip rail area there is not much room here so you will have to take your time. I wouldnt suggest a spot weld cutter. Just take your time and grind the old roof skin away from the drip rail this will take the most time. for the front and rear window area you can use a spot weld cutter

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4567.jpg
If you used the air chisel as was done here on the windshield area it will look like the above pic. You will have to grind this smooth before the new panel will go on. Use weld thrue primer on the bare metal areas that are to be welded together. dont get carred away you can make a mess.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4050008.jpg
After the old skin is off and all areas are addressed you can Por-15 as I did or sand blast and primer with a DP-90, your choice.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180002.jpg
At this time you may want to add sum sound deadner to the inside of the roof as I did. I used "Fatmat" It comes in squares. all you do is remove the protective film and apply it to the area make sure you get it wright the first time as it is hard to remove (verry sticky) use dthe supplied roller in the Kit til the wholee panel is done. once the roof is on you will not beable to access this area. It helps with "rattle" and acoustics.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180004.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180005.jpg
Once your panel is ready use your air punch/flange tool to punch holes in the roof skin lip as shown.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P1010009-1.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P1010006.jpg
After the panel is placed and fitted to your likeing, Tig, mig or use the Magna Spot welder as I did. Make sure you get good adhesion, you dont want your roof flying off! After you are done welding and grinding use the 3M Ultrapro MSP Seam Sealer (Gray) - 08370. Why ultrapro? It does not shrink and stays permanently flexible, you can also paint over it. as for where the quarter and A pillers meet the roof the Roof Skin must go inside the quarter panel lip then just weld it up. I used all metal as I dont like lead.

I hope this helps scott! :beers:

JNorton
Sep 22nd, 09, 8:20 PM
Nice work, well described. Oh, and nice octagon steering wheel, Cheech. LOL.

davewho1
Sep 22nd, 09, 8:25 PM
Oh, and nice octagon steering wheel, Cheech. LOL.

l:) l:) Good job! Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

crazychevelleman
Sep 22nd, 09, 8:28 PM
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P7170009.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P7170008.jpg
After you are done add the moulding clips :yes: here is a close up of the wheel :p

john5469
Sep 22nd, 09, 8:43 PM
Ken, thats good stuff! Don't we love them vise grips! wish i invented them.
What's next? wait a minute, i need to get some pop-corn.

bigtiny454
Sep 22nd, 09, 9:37 PM
This really does help ken, thanks man. I know I'm probably not the only one wanting this, too. A few questions though. Did you, or is it a good idea, to brace up the car prior to removing the panel? Did you only use all-metal on the a-pillars and sail panels, or did you you fully weld them? Doesn't the roof panel go over the quarter panel? I thought I read that in another thread, I could be wrong. Did you put the all-metal on prior to welding the sail panels and a-pillars? Again ken, its much appericiated. Also, I have to replace the right quarter, and maybe the left unless I can just get away with patching the very bottom, and and the rear deck panel. Should I do that first, so I have the roof to line it up with?

I'm not going to do this til march or april, I have decided to buy a millermatic syncrowave 200 tig, and that's deffenitly gonna set me back. So, when I do, and I know I will have plenty of questions then, I'll bother you then, ken. :)

crazychevelleman
Sep 22nd, 09, 9:54 PM
1.Did you, or is it a good idea, to brace up the car prior to removing the panel? I didnt, No need to brace the roof bracing is enough.

2.Did you only use all-metal on the a-pillars and sail panels, or did you you fully weld them? I welded them first then used all metal.

3.Doesn't the roof panel go over the quarter panel? no my OEM quarter lip was under the roof panel. See pic.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180005.jpg

4.Did you put the all-metal on prior to welding the sail panels and a-pillars? No all metal is a filler needs to be applied after all welding and or grinding in the area is finished. Make sure it goes directly over bear metal!

Do all patching and welding to the quarters with the old roof skin on first. if you can save the original quarters Do it! :thumbsup:

Alwhite00
Sep 22nd, 09, 10:40 PM
Looks like it fit pretty good, What brand is it? - Nice job BTW.

LK

bigtiny454
Sep 22nd, 09, 10:41 PM
The right quarter was hit and damaged pretty bad, along with the rust around the wheel well and across the the entire length of the bottom to the back. I don't even think I can use a patch on that side cause, from what I've read and seen, it won't go back that far. The left side is the same way with the rust all the way along the bottom, from the wheel well back. The rest of the left panel is excellent though. I figured I would get full 1/4's and cut patches for both sides, saving as much as I can. Like I said, those patch panels aren't big enough. I think I can save 90% of the left and 50% of the right.

Tod74
Sep 23rd, 09, 3:54 AM
Looks great...now in the spirit of originality...strip all EDP off, spray it down with salt water then install a vinyl top.:D

JNorton
Sep 23rd, 09, 7:57 PM
Thanks for the close-up of that steering wheel! I gotta get me one of those!

Just kidding, of course.

Freddy Mercado
Sep 23rd, 09, 8:12 PM
Nice job and great pics!

crazychevelleman
Sep 24th, 09, 9:09 AM
Looks like it fit pretty good, What brand is it? - Nice job BTW.

LK

Mine came in a goodmark Box!