crazychevelleman
Sep 22nd, 09, 8:15 PM
So, you want to install your own roof skin? You will need:
1. Air cutoff tool
2. Cutting discs
3. Grinding discs
4. Air chisel
5. Por-15
6. welder (tig or mig)
7. Spot weld cutter
8. Air punch/Flange tool
9. Magna spotwelder
10. 3M Ultrapro Seam Sealer (Gray) - 08370
11. Weld thrue primer
12. Plenty of patience
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4565.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4566.jpg
This first pic shows the Air chisel and air cut off tool. When you cut near the drip rails or edge of the window trim area always "cut back" so that you will have room to address the drip rail area there is not much room here so you will have to take your time. I wouldnt suggest a spot weld cutter. Just take your time and grind the old roof skin away from the drip rail this will take the most time. for the front and rear window area you can use a spot weld cutter
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4567.jpg
If you used the air chisel as was done here on the windshield area it will look like the above pic. You will have to grind this smooth before the new panel will go on. Use weld thrue primer on the bare metal areas that are to be welded together. dont get carred away you can make a mess.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4050008.jpg
After the old skin is off and all areas are addressed you can Por-15 as I did or sand blast and primer with a DP-90, your choice.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180002.jpg
At this time you may want to add sum sound deadner to the inside of the roof as I did. I used "Fatmat" It comes in squares. all you do is remove the protective film and apply it to the area make sure you get it wright the first time as it is hard to remove (verry sticky) use dthe supplied roller in the Kit til the wholee panel is done. once the roof is on you will not beable to access this area. It helps with "rattle" and acoustics.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180004.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180005.jpg
Once your panel is ready use your air punch/flange tool to punch holes in the roof skin lip as shown.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P1010009-1.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P1010006.jpg
After the panel is placed and fitted to your likeing, Tig, mig or use the Magna Spot welder as I did. Make sure you get good adhesion, you dont want your roof flying off! After you are done welding and grinding use the 3M Ultrapro MSP Seam Sealer (Gray) - 08370. Why ultrapro? It does not shrink and stays permanently flexible, you can also paint over it. as for where the quarter and A pillers meet the roof the Roof Skin must go inside the quarter panel lip then just weld it up. I used all metal as I dont like lead.
I hope this helps scott! :beers:
1. Air cutoff tool
2. Cutting discs
3. Grinding discs
4. Air chisel
5. Por-15
6. welder (tig or mig)
7. Spot weld cutter
8. Air punch/Flange tool
9. Magna spotwelder
10. 3M Ultrapro Seam Sealer (Gray) - 08370
11. Weld thrue primer
12. Plenty of patience
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4565.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4566.jpg
This first pic shows the Air chisel and air cut off tool. When you cut near the drip rails or edge of the window trim area always "cut back" so that you will have room to address the drip rail area there is not much room here so you will have to take your time. I wouldnt suggest a spot weld cutter. Just take your time and grind the old roof skin away from the drip rail this will take the most time. for the front and rear window area you can use a spot weld cutter
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/100_4567.jpg
If you used the air chisel as was done here on the windshield area it will look like the above pic. You will have to grind this smooth before the new panel will go on. Use weld thrue primer on the bare metal areas that are to be welded together. dont get carred away you can make a mess.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4050008.jpg
After the old skin is off and all areas are addressed you can Por-15 as I did or sand blast and primer with a DP-90, your choice.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180002.jpg
At this time you may want to add sum sound deadner to the inside of the roof as I did. I used "Fatmat" It comes in squares. all you do is remove the protective film and apply it to the area make sure you get it wright the first time as it is hard to remove (verry sticky) use dthe supplied roller in the Kit til the wholee panel is done. once the roof is on you will not beable to access this area. It helps with "rattle" and acoustics.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180004.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P4180005.jpg
Once your panel is ready use your air punch/flange tool to punch holes in the roof skin lip as shown.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P1010009-1.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj109/crazychevelleman/P1010006.jpg
After the panel is placed and fitted to your likeing, Tig, mig or use the Magna Spot welder as I did. Make sure you get good adhesion, you dont want your roof flying off! After you are done welding and grinding use the 3M Ultrapro MSP Seam Sealer (Gray) - 08370. Why ultrapro? It does not shrink and stays permanently flexible, you can also paint over it. as for where the quarter and A pillers meet the roof the Roof Skin must go inside the quarter panel lip then just weld it up. I used all metal as I dont like lead.
I hope this helps scott! :beers: