I ahve a 68 chaevelle ss, 4 speed....when I am going about 40mph and cruising and when I accerlerate a little, not wot, car moves to the left. Then when I let off of acceleration a little bit, car pulls again.

Best way I can describe it is like when you are on Ice,car just feels like it is sliding. Something is definitely wrong, but I don't know where to begin.

Anyone got any ideas?

Dave

Check all your suspension and steering components to see if they are loose. Worn rear bushings can cause this too. Just look at everything in the suspension and steering and make sure nothing is worn or loose. Maybe try an alignment too. The only real way to diagnose this is to do a thourough inspection. Good luck!

chris

Chris, Thanks, Dave

i dont know how much power you are making but my 67 jumps to the left SERIOUSLY when i stomp it at about 40 mph. but its making a butt load of power.

I second on checking the rear bushings. My 67 was sloppy in back as you describe and when taking corners until I replaced rear bushings (and control arms).

Tim

Dave - My 70 does the exact same thing and every nut/bolt/bushing everything is brand new. I also have a ford 9" with adjustable uppers , SSM lowers and air bags. I guarantee that there's nothing loose on the car yet it bugs the crap out of me! In fact it can downright be scary at times. I was told it was the detroit locker but I'm not sure.

I would love to find someone that has an answere and fix for this problem!

Lee

Lee, i have read posts about the locker moving the car. if you do a search im sure you will find it. proabley in performance. i here ya. all of my suspension is brand new. poly bushings, new moser 12 bolt, adj uppers, control arm braces ,air bags, yada yada yada. im going to try more air in the air bag and see if it helps. i was told when i built this thing it was going to be hunting ditches. may just have to live with it. Dave

has anyone with the handling problems under accleration made sure that their rear end is square in the car? It needs to be centered from right to left and also perpendicularto the frame or true centerline of the vehicle. if you can determine an accurate centerline in the car then you should be able to measure from each axle center, forward to your center point on a angle from each axle to form an imaginary triangle with your center point to each axle flange center point. you should have equal distance if the rear end is square.
John

I wish some of you guys could drive mine, she is a beut....but.... I got to get this "slide" deal figured out.

I will put it up on jacks and go over, and will probably change out control arms and bushings in rear.

I am trying to keep car as original as possible, but I do not want to sacrfice a "good" ride.

What rear end suspension would you recommend? I've been reading, and I have seen so many options.

I have seen Metco,Global West, HP Motorsport, Hotchis. I gues I could go thru local auto sports and get "standard" replacement arms, etc.

Also, what do you guys recommend, rubber or polyurthane bushings?.. or del-a-lum bushings.

Also, one last question. when you mention "Detroit Locker"., What is this? I have no comprehension of "Locker". What is this?

Thanks for all response, very much appreciated. I love my car. I really believe I can correct this problem. surley it is not standard to have this happen. I can feel it @ 30 mph, 40 mph and 50 mph.

It is most noticable, when I am cruising with accelerator pushed.... not wot, just crusing and then, if I raise acceleration just a bit, car slides to left.....then it will slide again with the most exageration....when I let up off of accelerator just a bit.

If on otherhand, I stomp it to wot, it does not "slide as much, same for deceleration....if I completely let off or throttle, car does not "slide" as much. It's really wierd. I can't imagine this being "normal".

Dave

as far as bushings go depends on what you are looking for out of your car. stock rubber would be a real good choice for a stock type daily drive. the poly bushings can squeak a bit but because they are a stiffer material theres not as much diflection in them. the idea is to hold things (rearend) in place a litle better. if you do go with poly the energy suspension (Black) are the same as the high dollar PST. cant coment on the other. a detroit locker is a different type posi unit. normal driving is a 1 wheel pull type deal under load it locks the other axil and becomes a 2 wheel pull. I measured from the front of the axil tube to 1 of the body bushing holes in the frame. was with in a 1/8". i would think there might be that much difference caused from the 8 poly bushings in the rear set up. Dave

I had a similar problem in my Chevelle last year...

It turned out to be the rear suspension. I replaced the lower control arms (Global West) and put some new bushings in the upper arms. Since I am using nylon locking nuts, I only snugged the bolts... The car definitely felt loose, and would dart slightly with road imperfections...

I torqued all the suspension bolts (I think it was 80 ft-lbs), and that solved the problem...

Worm rubber bushing can do the same...


As for replacement bushings, etc... If you are after mostly originality, I'd stick with all new bubber bushings, and maybe some boxed lower rear arms... Slightly more upgraded would be Poly bushings in the lower arms only, but they might squeak...

No need to go all out with custom lower and upper arms, etc, unless you are also going to update the wheels and tires, etc (assuming you are keeping relatively stock).

IMO, I would NOT use Poly bushings in the upper control arms. They will cause too much bind making the rear too stiff, and risk cracking the frame crossmember... The stock upper arms are flimsy, but they are designed to flex.


Is your steering box loose? I just replaced mine, and it made the biggest improvement. I didn't think my old box was that loose, but with the new one, it tracks very nicely on the highway...

This is helping me alot. I found bushings from Autozone $5.99 each, I figue 8 bushings for rear.
O'Riley wants $12.50 each. Advance Auto $8.50. i think Pep Boys is $7.89 each. Anyway, I guess their all ruber, just about all the same. O'Riley's were "MOOG".

anyway, I get home from work, jack car up, take a look first at both rear wheels. I jerk on right rear wheel, it "clicks and pops". i immediately think this is stange. I don't see movement. I move over to left rear wheel, I tug and Pull...no "clicks, no pops". So, I go back over
to right rear wheel and tug and pull some more and can notice right rear wheel is moving in and out, very slitely, maybe 1/8 inch, but, defintiely is moving. I think I have found problem.

I look over bushings and notice one or two bushings dry-rotted, cracked. They all look like original bushings. So, my game plan is to let you guys know of my new discovery....about right rear wheel and see what you advise.

I wish I could describe movement in right rear wheel a bit better. I am estimating 1/8 inch movement.... I get this when I pull on top of tire and bottom...pushing and pulling in opposite directions. It "clicks" and "pops"

As far as steering box...it is a manual box. I checked it a couple of months ago, filled it up, tightened screws a bit....it is much tighter, but still too much play for my liking.

what do you guys think now? also, I don't see any damage to controll arms, lower or upper.

Also, can someone comment on how to take these control arms off inorder to replace bushings.Main thing is where do I put jacks, etc. I was told today to put jacks on frame, then use air compressed jack to move axle up and down accrding to what I need to do to remove and install control arms, etc. Does this sound correct. Thanks to all. Dave

Dave, the job is labor intensive, its not really hard, just takes a while. if you are going to replace the bushings in the axil housing (good idea) this is where it gets frustrating. when you get the new bushings, put them in the deep freeze and freeze them for 24 hrs. use a large metal block that you can use to beat on. once you get the old bushings out, put some moly lube in the axil housing holes. dont put it on the bushing as it will just freeze. get the bushing started in the hole. once your convenced its well started, place the large metal block against it and drive the new bushing in to the shoulder. be prepared to work here. get the car up on jacks and use the hydrolic jack as described. try and get the car high enough to give yourself some working room, but not crazy high. your going to need all the room you can get swinging a hammer driving the new bushings in the housing. good luck Dave

Dave - I'm pretty sure the movement you described in your axle is normal. You rear axles are held in by 'C' clip retainers and there's some movement there.

Lee

Lee, Mr. houston, Thanks.

I guess I need to start with replacing eight )8) rubber bushings and see if that helps.

I will let you guys know how it goes. it will be atleast a couple of weeks from now, I have a couple of other projects going on.

I love working on my chevelle! See ya, Dave

When removing the two bushing from the axle housing, I have found it easier to drill out the rubber bushing and then use a big hammer/chisle to collapse the metal shell. Use the drill with regular bits (~1/4 inch) and keep drilling through the rubber in as many spots as you can until the rubber can be removed...

And check the positioning of the old bushing shell before removal. The bushings only go through tthe rear axle about 1/2 way... Some new bushings have a stepped shell, but I think som e might not have the step...

Dave,

Do a search in this forum on replacing lower control arms and bushings. It has been discussed many times. My Elky drove the same way until I replaced the stock control arms with boxed ones and put in new rubber bushings. How old are your shocks? They are cheap enough, go ahead and put in new KYB's all around. If you put on boxed rear control arms they will have the holes drilled for a sway bar. Put one on. 7/8" is fine. Order it from the General.
Gauranteed this will solve your problems. Anything more is just fine tuning.

Good Luck. Dave.

Sofar.... I have taken off upper right controll arm. I have been able to knock bushing out of arm. But...I am having big time trouble with bushing in upper housing on car.

Now that I have read your reply "post", I will try to drill out rubber etc.. and try to collapse the bushing....it's a bugger.

I have no sway bar on this car now....so I will be hunting one down and be sure to put on.

Thanks for all help. I hope I can get this bushing out of top upper control arm housing.

Dave