front spring replacement [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: front spring replacement


Patrick O'Rourke
Nov 18th, 03, 3:10 PM
Is it easier to get the front springs out with the ball joints disconnected? i am replacing the ball joints also. Seems to me it would be easier since there would not be as much tension on them. Correct me if I am wrong, before I get started.

gUmBaLL68Malibu
Nov 18th, 03, 4:18 PM
Unless your springs are lowering springs (really low) i don't think its possible to get the spring out without breaking a balljoint loose. The spring compressors are already scary enough let alone trying to take it out with the balljoints in.

If your balljoints are worn or pretty old, it would be the best time to swap them. Upper & lower if possible. Its all pretty simple when the spring is out. Might want to look @ your upper/lower control arm bushigns too. I like to do things once, and just replace it all so thats just me smile.gif .

RAMBO
Nov 18th, 03, 4:40 PM
My repair manual shows how to remove the spring by compressing the spring, and then removing the inner bolts holding the control arm onto the frame-

That is how REDRUM and I pulled & installed the front springs on my 70 elky....

No problems, and we didn't have to mess with the ball joints.

gUmBaLL68Malibu
Nov 18th, 03, 8:38 PM
Intresting, that would work now that i think about it, just having that spring all compressed while you are right in there unbolting those bolts is a bit scary to me. He said he was replacing the balljoints anyway so it would be easier to do get the balljoints free with the spring pushing on the arms. We always busted the lower one first, with a jack under the cup (where the spring is in) then since the spring still had some pressure to it we popped the upper loose. Had a large chain around the spring so it didn't go flying though.

69chevelle69
Nov 18th, 03, 9:21 PM
I am working on my front end right now and just this weekend knocked the spindles off the ball joints and did so with the stock springs still attached and am now going to replace the control arms and ball joints for my new disc brakes I am going to compress the spring before i remove the control arm but i had no problems knocking the spindles off the ball joints with the springs still attached

69chevelle69
Nov 18th, 03, 9:23 PM
I think thats the easiest way to do things the spring would be easier to remove without the spindle.....

Alan
Nov 20th, 03, 1:50 PM
If you're replacing the ball joints and springs here is what I have done (simpified as I don't have time to type it all out):

</font> Loosen upper and lower ball joints nuts a few turns, but don't take all the way off.</font> Since you won't care about ruining the old BJs, separate the upper control arm from the spindle with the BJ fork.</font> Now do the same with the bottom lower control arm and spindle.</font>Might want to put a jack under the lower control arm for safety sake. The spring pressure will help separate the spindle from control arm.

Now to get the spring out. I'd recommend taking the lower control arm to frame bolts out and getting the spring out that way. You don't need a spring compressor.

</font> Put jack under control arm. Position it more towards the front bolt hole as there is more pressure on that one.</font> Remove control arm to frame bolts.</font> Lower the control arm down SLOWLY. You might need to use a crow bar to pry the control arm down out of the frame.</font> when jack is lowered all the way the spring will fall right out of the control arm.</font>
I've done spring removal this way over seven times and NEVER ONCE did the spring move from its pocket while lowering the jack. Even if it did jump, it'll jump towards the center of the vehicle out of harms way. Spring compressors scare me as most I've tried using look as though they could slip at any moment doing major harm to you or your car. I consider the above method very safe as I've done it so many times and never had a jack slip off the control arm or spring move in the pocket. Installing the spring using the reverse of this method is a little difficult. Mostly because it can be hard to line the bolt hole up. I've figured a way to make it easy though. I'll post later if people don't flame me for my method...

Luuuke
Nov 22nd, 03, 1:48 AM
Save yourself and your car. Take it to your alingment shop. Just bring the beer and watch. That way everyones happy and they have the liability. graemlins/clonk.gif

MalibuJerry350
Nov 23rd, 03, 4:06 PM
Originally posted by Luuuke:
Save yourself and your car. Take it to your alingment shop. Just bring the beer and watch. That way everyones happy and they have the liability. graemlins/clonk.gif I agree! I even have someone else do the shocks. After they've been on there for a few years and exposed to all the road salt, etc, it's fun to watch someone else knashing his teeth and busting HIS knuckles to get the bolts out. :D Especially the bottom ones with the "J" clips! smile.gif

Patrick O'Rourke
Nov 23rd, 03, 6:04 PM
Well, I have changed the springs, upper/lower ball joints. The job was no big deal as I know how to change ball joints, I just figured it would be easier to change the springs when the spindle is loose. It was easier to do the springs, with the spidles loose, just pulled them out, put the joints in, bolted all back together. As far as bringing it to someone and let them do it, thats fine for people that walk around telling me they have 150K invested in their car, and they can't even tell you whats in the motor, or much of anything else about their car. I will not have spent a third of what it cost them, and will have the satisfaction of knowing the job was done right. Thanks guys for the constructive advice.

Alan
Nov 23rd, 03, 8:33 PM
Good work Patrick! As you found, it's not that big of a job. I agree with you on why you don't take it to someone else to fix. For me, I like to say I did it, not shelled out the cash to some shop. Anyone can do that.