Lots of work ahead of me!! [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Lots of work ahead of me!!


feedphillipnow
Sep 30th, 04, 4:59 PM
I put the new steering box in the other night, I took it the the alignment shop they said they couldnt align in, and it needs alot of work. I havent picked it up yet and gotten a list, but the upper ball joints I know need replacing, I did the lowers. How much of a pain is it to do the uppers? My steering is pure hell right now. I'll update later :mad:

feedphillipnow
Sep 30th, 04, 5:42 PM
Ok I got my list now from the alignment shop. My front shock has popped out for the 3rd time! Heres what they need done to align it.

*New front Coils and rear Coils
*New shocks
*Upper ball joints
*Bushings a little lose on control arms
*Remove custom hood

I forgot to tell them the front coils were brand new, but 2" drop coils so scratch that part. I already filled them in. Shocks, easy fix. My main thing here is the upper ball joints and tightening everything down for them. Ive done all the lower work, plus a brand new steering box.

Main question, Upper Ball Joints, we've had several posts on them. Can I put a jack below the lower control arm, undo everything and lower it, then just take the top off? Doing this without a spring compressor that is....

sinned
Sep 30th, 04, 6:43 PM
Put a jack under the arrm to support the lower control arm and spring. "Pop" the upper ball joint off the spindle and replace it right there in the car. If it has ever been done, just take out the 4 bolts and replace ball joint. If it has never been done, cut off rivet heads and replace ball joint. Not a difficult job, I do them at work in 20 minutes. I did my wifes Durango last weekend, it took 1 hour in the garage (I forgot most of my tools at work).

feedphillipnow
Sep 30th, 04, 7:08 PM
20 Minutes! You lucky SOB smile.gif The lowers had never been done I had to drill and chisel them out, probably the same story with the uppers. I'll know in about 1 hour when I get out in the garage. If I pop the upper ball joint off like you say, with the jack under the lower, is this including dropping the lower arm? It would seem really difficult to get the upper arm back on with the spring fully tensioned and lower arm fully bolted in. Thanks, I know it shouldnt be too bad, I just dont want to go the more difficult route, as usual ;)

TronDD
Sep 30th, 04, 8:33 PM
Put the lower arm on a block or something. The spring won't expand.

You can probably just leave the jack there, as long as you don't get under anything.

Tim.

sinned
Sep 30th, 04, 8:39 PM
Don't take the upper arm off the car, just change the ball joint in the arm while it's still in the car.

The lowers shouldn't have had any rivets???? Drill and chisel what? They are pressed in.

Chris R
Sep 30th, 04, 10:44 PM
If you need all of that stuff you might as well go and get a rebuild kitr from a place like PST. Thats what I did.

And, why would they want you to remove the hood to align the vehicle?


Chris.

feedphillipnow
Sep 30th, 04, 11:05 PM
I have a fiberglass lift off hood, Id rather do it myself too, drive it there without, they'd probably scratch it up, it has to go on perfect! I was thinking the coils were sandwhiched by the control arms, I forgot the lower one holds it in, against the frame right? I did the uppers, all this time I thought it was work, it was just dirty... easy as pie! Swap out for some new rear shocks tomorrow and im set. They only thing at my work we have in stock are the gas - a - just KYB's I would have gone with the cheaper KYBs but these will do I guess!

feedphillipnow
Sep 30th, 04, 11:14 PM
Oh when I was talking about drilling and chiseling. When I did the lowers, the 4 bolts that you use to put on the ball joints, those werent there. There were little knot/welds I had to drill then out then chisel the left overs, then they popped out.