What i mean is i have a tilt column shift and i want to make it a floor shift and i want to know do anyone know if anyone makes the collar for the floor shift because i thought about sanding down the part of the plastic that the shift handle connects to and fiberglassing in the hole but decided just to check was there a collar i can buy.

I was unable to find one for my 69-72 column. The only thing I could find was a replacement for the one with the shifter. Not sure what year your column is but mine is made out of aluminum so I was going to remove the shifter grind down the hump and braze it or fill it.

Yeah i was thinking the same thing

You don't really need to change the collar to install a floor shifter. If you want the right look you will, but for functionality, no.

I assume you either installed a late-model tilt column, or have a later Chevelle.

I put a tilt/telescoping column out of an '82 Caddy Seville in my '69, and have the same issue. I noticed years ago that some parts of GM columns were interchangeable, and wondered if I got a collar off of a GM-anything floor-shift car, if the collar would fit...I never did check it out.

I haven't decided whether or not I'm gonna keep this column, or go w/ a brand new unit. I never should have gotten rid of the '70 Camaro column I had when I installed my Muncie M21 (first new trans after the OE Powerglide), but it didn't 'tilt' smile.gif

Check out the collars on mid/early '80's floor shift GM cars...you might get one to fit (if they don't make you buy the whole column).

Let me know if it works...

JR

I have forwarded your question along to one of the Delphi steering column engineers. The only problem is that Delphi is down for the next two weeks. So we will have to wait for an answer to this 35 year old question.

I convert these quite a bit,a die grinder,and some bondo or even A/B expoxy will get the job done.Sand,prime,and paint with Krylon 1316

Where in NC are you? If you're near durham, I can show you mine. I just changed from a column shift to a hurst V-matic. Right now I just have the shift lever removed from the column, but the mount for it is still there. I also removed all the column shift linkage, except the part that is actually on the column itself. To keep the column from moving around I zip-tied the little lever that sticks up from the column under the hood, where the linkage attaches. I unplugged the wires from the stock neutral safety switch, and wired the new shifter into the factory wires. So far it's worked fine.

I live in Greensboro NC not to far i past bye durham everyonce and a while to go to Rocky Mount NC out side of raleigh

This is the answer that I received from a steering column engineer at Delphi Saginaw Steering.
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Jim,
I believe the floor shift bowls were interchangeable with the column shift bowls. The tough part of changing bowls is that you need an I.D. tube puller to get the new bowl on without collapsing the shift tube injection joint. (Which assumes the joint wasn't fractured getting the original bowl off the tube.)

The following link show the bowl being removed and installed using some special tools.

http://www.corvettefaq.com/acar/TiltColumnLineDrwg3.doc

I do not know where you can obtain the tools.

He might consider modifying his current bowl.
He could saw off the lever boss and fill in with
bondo, which I remember we did for some styling displays.

The next issue is the installation of a Neutral Start and Reverse Light Switch. Your original column shift steering column will have a NSRLSwitch mounted on the steering column jacket down under the dash. This switch insures that your car will only start when the transmission is in Neutral or Park positions. It also turns on your rear backup lights when the transmission is in Reverse. I assume that the floor shifter does not have a provision for a NSRLSwitch on the shifter itself.

This will require that a linkage or cable needs to be connected from the floor shifter to the lever on the lower end of the steering column. With the two connected, when you shift into Park or Neutral, the lower lever will move accordingly, the shift tube will be rotated, and the NSRLSwitch on the column will be moved to the correct position as well.

The issue is of course maintaining the parklock safety feature, and still being able to start, shift, and steer. The floor shifter will need to
be able to back-drive the bowl and rotate it to the correct positions to enable the steering column rack and ignition switch coupling to interact properly with the bowl plate. Since the
conversion essentially runs the bowl from the bottom up, instead of from the top down, there may be lash that doesn't always rotate the shift
tube to be fully in Park, and that may mean the neutral start switch on the jacket won't allow the ignition switch to start the vehicle. There
are slots in the neutral start switch mounting bracket to allow adjustment.

I believe the shift system linkage was always attached to the column shift tube lever in Park, so that would be a good place to start with the
adjustment. When finished, be sure the driver tests the system by carefully trying to start in gear, which it shouldn't do. Keep your
foot on the brake! Then, make sure when completing a shift into park, that Park is the only position the ignition key will rotate into the lock position and can be removed.
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I hope that this information helps.
Jim

I just removed the lever and hooked up the factory style floor shifter. The column still moves but it doesn't bother me...it'll do until I can afford to fix it properly.

Neutral saftey switch and all that still works this way, plus if I break a shift cable (again) i can just whip out the old lever and be on my way

I think most shifters you buy now do have the NSS and backup light provisions built into them. My hurst did, all I did was unplug the wires on the little horseshoe thingy on the steering column, and wire them to the terminals on the floor shifter. Worked right the first time.

Did the same thing - B&M Quicksilver - just popped the pin and removed the lever. Left the column bone stock. You hardly even notice it. One day, I may just put it back on and won't have to worry about how to hook things up because the mount is no longer there.