I searched this topic and couldn't find what the best practices are for removing wheel studs. The method of choice seems to be hammering it out with a mallet or taking it to a machinist and have it pressed out. I'm trying to find a method I can do myself.

The shop I took my front hubs to did the hammer method and tweaked the front face of the drum hub which required me to have to turn them down to flat again. It was not a good method.

I need to do the same to the rear but really wanted to avoid the BFH method. Is there a puller or extractor of some kind for this or maybe some of you guys have another clever method?

I searched this topic and couldn't find what the best practices are for removing wheel studs. The method of choice seems to be hammering it out with a mallet or taking it to a machinist and have it pressed out. I'm trying to find a method I can do myself.

The shop I took my front hubs to did the hammer method and tweaked the front face of the drum hub which required me to have to turn them down to flat again. It was not a good method.

I need to do the same to the rear but really wanted to avoid the BFH method. Is there a puller or extractor of some kind for this or maybe some of you guys have another clever method?

I have always used the "BFH" method, but maybe you could use a big C Clamp to press it out if you had to.

I've always knocked them out with a BFH too.

Always BFH. Works every time.

A hardened center punch or 3/8" bolt on the stud will help keep your hammer blows on target. :thumbsup:

Got a friend with a hydralic press?:thumbsup:

BFH works best if you support the axle so you are just pounding the stud out and not tweaking the axle flange.

Use a big C-clamp if you have the room. use a socket that is bigger than the head of the stud so that you press the stud into the socket. Works great!

I always put a lug nut on the stud before smacking it with the BFH. I need a bigger target, and the odds are better that I won't miss the stud and smack the axle flange.

Rest the Flange on top of the vise with the jaws open enough for the stud to go through. Then BFH will knock it out and not hurt the flange.

I use an air hammer with a pointed tip. Lots less stress on the bearings and other parts you are pounding against with the BFH...;)..:thumbsup:. Faster too...:beers:.

I use an air hammer with a pointed tip. Lots less stress on the bearings and other parts you are pounding against with the BFH...;)..:thumbsup:. Faster too...:beers:.

:hurray:

I have the rear end out (thank goodness) but unfortunately, I already put everything (new bearings, seals, assembled axles, sealed pumpkin, etc) back together. I think I may have to remove everything though and remove the axles again in order to rest the flange on some type of vise to pound them out. I'm going to try the C-clamp (or similar) method and will resort to the BFH if that doesn't work. I was thinking about the air hammer route also.

Good suggestions guys! Thank you! I was hoping for a special tool like a balljoint tool of some type but I guess no such tool exists.

My older Son held my 12-bolt's axles on a block of wood while I used a piece of 1" aluminum round stock as a big punch and whacked them out easily w/ my 3# BFT!!

Easy as pie!

Not tho, pulling the new one's back in by hand!

pdq67

If the axles are still installed in the rear I have used a ball joint remover ( see photo ). It's basically a big C-clamp but it has a hole in the end that will fit over the stud. If the axle is out of the car the BFH method works well.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj15/sbvelleman/th_102_4105.jpg (http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj15/sbvelleman/?action=view&current=102_4105.jpg)

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj15/sbvelleman/th_102_4106.jpg (http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/jj15/sbvelleman/?action=view&current=102_4106.jpg)

You know fancy tools just can't bet the low cost of a hamer. Best way, run an open end lughut down flush with the top of the stud, tap a few good solid times, and wala wheel stud is out. Not fancy but it works and it works 100% of the time!

I would remove the axle and use my press, or lacking that, the ball joint removal tool, ie, extra large C clamp tool. A plain big c clamp with a socket or wrench box end over the head of the stud would work also.

Axle removal is pretty easy, except for the cost and pain in refilling the lube.

The bft (Big Ford Tool) would work, but I don't do that anymore if at all possible. I have experience in the reasons not to use it. I don't do this often enough to have a good feel for it either, (and I am serious about it). I would prefer removing the axles for the hammer also, so as to support the flange properly.

WOW......some people would REALLY go thru a lot of trouble just to replace a stinking wheel stud......been replacing em with a BFH for 35 years...no problems (just did one on my front rotor over the weekend).....ya don't have to act like your chopping down a tree :noway:

I appreciate everyone's comments. Definitely clear how much experience is on this board! However, if I was replacing one stud or all 20 I just don't see how using a BFH will not cause some warping on the hub/flange face if someone was just to bang away at it. If the back is properly supported and you hammer away then that's probably best case scenario.

Ron - I agree with your methods. I found my long lost air hammer so i'm going to try that this weekend as well. Damn thing is noisy though so I hope the neighbors don't complain.

I'm running corvette brakes and 18" wheels so any warping on the hub will be aggravated on this kind of setup. With this bigger rotor setup you also need to run longer wheel studs. Well, it's just safer too.

Wish I took pics of the front hub after my local shop used the BFH method haphazardly. There was some noticeable warping of the rotor. I think on my old 15-16" setup on 70 series tires it's probably not much of an issue. I had to get them refinished so the surface is flat again. I'm certain they would have vibrated which will cause all sorts of problems.