steering box removal question [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: steering box removal question


dlo
Sep 3rd, 09, 1:23 PM
On a 70 chevelle, is it easier when replacing steering boxes to remove the pitman arm from the car and steering box when replacing box. Or is it easier to remove pitman arm from box and leave the pitman arm attached to car? I am wanting to replace the box and dont want my steering wheel crooked or need a front end alignment when i am done.

Rich-L79
Sep 3rd, 09, 1:33 PM
It'd be easier to remove the box as a whole from the car, remove the pitman arm, install the arm on the new box and then install the new box. You'll need a pitman arm remover tool, they don't just slide off when you remove the nut.

Before you remove the box, steer the wheels straight ahead. Notice the orientation of the arm to the box before you remove it, take a picture or write a note if you have to. Take note not only of the direction the arm is pointing, but whether the curve of the arm is toward or away from the box. Steer the new box left to right counting the turns lock to lock. Then with the box steered all the way to one side, turn it half of the turns you got on your lock to lock count, that should center the new box. Then install the pitman arm in the same orientation as it was on the old box. Typically the pitman arm has notches in the splines that match knobs in the splines on the pitman shaft of the box that allow you to only install the arm in one (or one of four) orientation. Tighten the retaining nut HARD and reinstall the box. Your steering alignment shouldn't be affected at all.

NOTE: some boxes have a small pointer cast into the box that can be lined up to a line scored into the steering shaft that then indicates the center point of the steering. HOWEVER, sometimes during the rebuilding of the box the shaft isn't aways installed in the same orientation and thus the scored line doesn't always indicate the center of that particular steering box. The method of using half the lock to lock count is failsafe.

dlo
Sep 3rd, 09, 1:44 PM
most helpful thank u.

Jeffry72
Sep 3rd, 09, 2:33 PM
The times I've done it, I've found the pitman arm came off relatively easy from the original box and I've left it on the car. Since the pitman arm will go on only one way, it reduces the variables for getting alignment screwed up. I always put the seatbelt thru the steering wheel with the wheels straight. When I put on the GC box on I turn the shaft so it is right in the middle, meaning not turned left or right. Since the arm can only go on the splines that one way, you are made in the shade.

The problem I've always had is getting the GC pitman arm off the GC box. I've broken two pullers and had to buy a bigger BFH.

dlo
Sep 3rd, 09, 3:33 PM
I used a impact wrench with a puller to get the arm off the cherokee box, it came off ok. I was just unsure if you could leave the pitman on the car while removing the steering box, and if it was left on the car how hard it would be to get the splines to line up and install back on the car.

Jeffry72
Sep 3rd, 09, 3:50 PM
So simple my wife could do it.

Rich-L79
Sep 3rd, 09, 4:15 PM
I used a impact wrench with a puller to get the arm off the cherokee box, it came off ok. I was just unsure if you could leave the pitman on the car while removing the steering box, and if it was left on the car how hard it would be to get the splines to line up and install back on the car.

Either way would work. I guess leaving the pitman arm on the car would mean one less step (knocking the pitman arm loose from the drag link) but I find working with the box as a whole easier to do in the bench vice on the workbench than on the car.

dlo
Sep 3rd, 09, 4:38 PM
does anyone know if the bolt on the bottom of the chevelle's steering gear holding the pitman arm, is it the same as the grand cherokee's bolt. I would have thought that the jeep bolt is metric and the chevelle standard. I eyeballed the two and they look similar. I just got a impact wrench after using a loner, and i would like to know the sizes of the two bolts if anyone knows.

72ElCamino
Sep 3rd, 09, 6:14 PM
I believe that I used the same nut that was on my old box for the new box.

I also, instead of pulling it off as one piece, just unbolted the pitman arm from the steering box and left it attatched to the drag link.

Matt

borider54
Sep 3rd, 09, 6:46 PM
I just performed last Saturday. I left the pitman arm attached to the drag link. Purchased a puller from harbour freight for $7, cause the local auto parts did not have that tool to loan.
Easier to understand the install after you have things apart; as you can turn the box shaft to center. you shouldn't have any problems. Take you time and pay attention to details as you remove.
Like others have said "now handles much better".

dlo
Sep 3rd, 09, 7:54 PM
I hope to get my fittings in from lee tomorrow, and tackle the install this weekend around the football games..

72ElCamino
Sep 3rd, 09, 7:55 PM
I hope to get my fittings in from lee tomorrow, and tackle the install this weekend around the football games..

Good stuff, Let us know how it works out...


Go Bulldogs!:D

Jeffry72
Sep 3rd, 09, 7:58 PM
If you still have the nut from the GC box, just use that.

dlo
Sep 6th, 09, 3:36 PM
I swaped to the grand geep cherokee box yesterday. It took about four hours from start to finish. I am very pleased with the improvement in the steerings feel. I cant imagine a better bang for the buck upgrade. I would suggest anyone wanting to loose the loose, boat, steering feel to do this swap..Thanks to all for the answered questions.

turnone72
Sep 6th, 09, 7:20 PM
The guys at Turn One High Performance Steering System do a great job rebuilding boxes and at a great price. They're very easy to work with and really know their stuff! Their website is www.turnone-steering.com