FO_FDYFO

I am in the middle of my tall spindle using tubular A arms conversion for my 67 chevelle, I am going with the 12 disc rotors 1LE. My question is what bearing will I need on the new rotors, and also how do I find which studs 7/16 will replace the 12 mm that come pressed in, I heard Global West has a kit. From your website "Install new bearings(?), racers and seals into the rotors, grease and install on spindles" Can I get these bearing at a local part store?

Lastly whats the story with the lower control arms? You said this on your website "Control arms, lower stock ’70 Chevelle w/ oval bushing, boxed & galvanized " Any ideal on price?

My donor car for spindles was a 1994 Caprice, but no backing plate!

May I cut in? Great details here: B-body conversion (http://www.geocities.com/diels12000/BrakesII.html)

May I cut in? Great details here: B-body conversion (http://www.geocities.com/diels12000/BrakesII.html)

Thank you SS driffter that website is very usually. Now I am trying to find polyurethane bushing for the stock lower control arms? I checked summits site but not sure if their kits are for upper control arms only, I just need the lower control arms.

hi, i did not use the 1LE i used the caprice rotors, but i am pretty sure you would use the bearings that your donor 1994 caprice would use. ask for them at a parts store, they should be readily available. since i used the caprice rotors i did not change the 1/2" studs that already come on them, so i cant tell you what to use, but someone else here could.

the story on the control arms is; i used stock lower arms with oval bushings. oval because when you go to urethane bushings it is good to have the extra cushioning in the direction that hitting a pot hole causes a shock transmitted to the frame. i boxed them with the kits i put together to prevent any future cracking, then i had them galvanised. i cant tell you cost because i had them in a lot of parts getting galvanised together. you can get the boxing kit from me and weld them in yourself. i hightly recomend it.
http://hometown.aol.com/smartasreality/images/a-arm-2.jpg

FO_FDYFO I just might get that boxing kit from you, also were can I get the lower control polyurethane bushing kit?

i got mine from PST

Spawn,

Check with the local parts store on the bearings and races. I think the 1LE will have an A-34 outer and an A-6 inner bearing. But they should have a listing for the 1LE Camaro.

The bearings you need for the 1LE rotor is A3 outer and A6 inner. If you goto Autozone the part # for Timken is Set 3 and Set 6. The inner wheel seal is Timken # 8871. You won't need to change the races as the 1LE rotors come with new races installed. If you use '94 Caprice rotors, the same part #'s apply.

Originally posted by Alan:
The bearings you need for the 1LE rotor is A3 outer and A6 inner. If you goto Autozone the part # for Timken is Set 3 and Set 6. The inner wheel seal is Timken # 8871. You won't need to change the races as the 1LE rotors come with new races installed. If you use '94 Caprice rotors, the same part #'s apply. i have heard bad stories about not changing the racers that come with the new rotors. maybe they are just stories, but i would change the racers. they come with the new bearings anyway. graemlins/clonk.gif the stories i have heard are; the racers that come in the new rotors are not as hard of steel so they cost less and wear out quicker. they wont match up with the roller bearings of the new bearing as good as the racer that comes with them, and i have heard that the racers that are in there ar what they use for alignment and fixturing when the machine the rotors from the manufacturer and were never meant to stay in there. of course shops that are installing these will not tell you or change them because it takes more time to do. but if you are doing them your self and you get them included with the new bearings anyway, just change them. i would and do. i just made a punch out of a piece of 1/2" diameter brass rod. hammer it out from the opposite side and knock the new ones in. use brass, copper or aluminum something soft so you do not hurt the racers. good luck. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I did not get the rotors from the 1994 caprice, but rather the spindles only. The rotors I am using are cross drilled/slotted 1LE IROTOR with the 12 mm studs installed. I think the only thing I need is the bearings? Here is a picture if the rotors I have.
http://i20.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/b6/e0/dc_1.JPG
here is a link to the ebay auction rotor link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33564&item=2455183736#ebayphotohosting)

FO_FDYFO, does it matter that I got my 1LE rotors brand new from GM? This is the first I've heard of a potential bearing race problem. I honestly would have put the Timken races in, but I couldn't get the existing races out (I was using a brass rod too). I don't think I'll change them out now, but if things go bad, you might have given me the answer already.

Tristan, nice rotors. Are you going for style? Cross-drilled/slotted rotors do nothing for performance, cost more, and can't be turned later on. Plus, the drilled holes can form stress cracks under repeated hard braking. The Baer website goes into this in more detail. They sure look cool though.

Alan there is some truth to that, but not necessarily all true.

Advantages of Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors:

Improves the cooling of the rotors

Decreases the chances of brake fade by helping abandoning the gases that are often released during heavy braking

Reduces the rotational force and unsprung weight of your car. Although it may not seem like much, this will help in the event of an emergency.

Slots, which are non-directional and designed specifically to work with cross-drilling, help dissipate water, dirt, and dust that is built up between the brake pads and rotors. Furthermore, it resists out-gassing.

Slots de-glaze the pads, which improves contact between the pads and rotors. This, in turn, shortens the braking distance.

When braking contact area and brake pad pressure is maximized, you get maximized braking performance!
In Combination, cross drilled and slotted rotors give more stopping power and less fade during repeated heavy brake applications!

spawn, i am not sure you understood me. :confused:
allen, i would think it does matter even if they came from GM, if what i heard is true. it might make as much of a difference as thinking the wieght removed by drilling holes in the rotors matter. ?
but spawn, doesnt all theose holes and slots actually reduce the contact area to the brake pads? retorical question, of course it does. personally i would stay away from those rotors, unless you dont plan on driving the car that much. i am under the impression those are for circle track guys who could really reap the benifits from them and aford to replace them after so many races. not good for the avrage street car though.

I am no physics major by any means at all, but I am sure the cross drill slotted rotors have more then enought R&D invested into them by brake companies such as Wilwood, and Baer. I am sure are cons about these rotors, but honestly have not heard or seen anyone not benefit from slotted/cross drilled rotors performance. I am sure they are people out there who may have experienced problems associate with their designs, but that remains to be debated. I am going to run them and if the perform well then I will recommend them to others, if they crack or break then I agree with the negative structural designs. I don't think I will run into any problems but if I do, I will let you guys know.

FO_FDYFO how long will it to ship those lower control arms kits?

i dont think anyone was implying they would crack or break. anyway, i ran a pbatch or them out with the plasma cutter. i think i have 4 or 5 sets left. so when they go, it will be a while befor i fire up another batch.
pete

FYI, I got the kit from Pete (FO_FDYFO)about a month ago myself. (Thanks, Pete!!) They had a great article in one of the mags a few years ago about doing exactly what Pete's done - really strengthens the lower A-Arms for performance driving.

Also, I don't think you can turn down cross-drilled rotors, but don't know why. I use slotted myself.

thanks Xtreme ;)

You know I am good for one of those kits this month, FO_FDYFO I will be contacting you this weekend or later today to order.