Here is my situation. I have a 68 that needs bodywork and paint. Basically as far as what is needs is: couple of small/medium dents fixed in front drivers side fender, new drivers side rear qtr and then primer/sealer/paint etc. It also has some paint cracking in various spots. My question is based on this should I attempt to do the body work as a novice (going to have a friend paint) and because of the paint cracking do I need to take it down to bare metal? It will not be a show car, just a nice clean summer cruiser. As far as I can tell I think I will need a hammer/dolly set and obviously welding/cutting equip. Thanks for any advice!

Might be good to go see Dave Birdwell, he's just starting his business and is does GREAT work for a really fair rate!!

I had never done panel replacement until I started on my 68 GTO. If you take your time and are patient you can do well.

I think mine is turning out pretty decent.

I had never done panel replacement until I started on my 68 GTO. If you take your time and are patient you can do well.

I think mine is turning out pretty decent.
JL-

What did you use to cut out? Air chisel/plasma cutter? Where did you get your replacement panels? thanks.

i'm a novice also but asked a friend who runs a body shop on what to do. i did all the work myself learning as i went along. he came to look at it and said it was very good work. it took a loooonnnnggg time but i am in the process of priming now. i put on 2 new quarters,2 fenders and complete wheelhouses and inner fenders. you can do it. by the way i didn't know how to weld till now

It will be a lot easier if you find someone close by that does this kind of work at home and ask him to do it with your help. Not an easy person to find, but it is the best education you can get. At the very least, a local guy that has done this kind of work and will come by to answer your questions every now and then really makes it easier. To jump in, with no experience at all and no tools is a big undertaking. You can do it, but you can also give up because there is so much to learn and do. Minor body work and paint is not too hard to learn, but requires an expensive set of tools. Basic metal replacement is not too hard to learn (with help), but it also requires and expensive investment in tools. Air compressor, paint gun, mig welder/gas bottle and assorted finishing/grinding/cutting tools can easily run $2500-$3500

JL-

What did you use to cut out? Air chisel/plasma cutter? Where did you get your replacement panels? thanks.

I used cutoff wheels on an air grinder, I got a quarter skin from a place in Gresham, and the patches I needed from Ames. I recommend getting your panels from a local place as they are all pretty much made by the same place (more so likely on a 68 anyway) and shipping will of course be high.

Heres this. Take some time and look at the different tools uses, pay particular attention to the size drill bit and size screw to draw your panels together.

Also don't use all the screws I did.

Its just another way to do floor pans and gives you some basic stuff.

Rob



FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION (http://www.1969supersport.com/floorpn.html)




FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION PART 2 (http://www.1969supersport.com/flrpn.html)




FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION PART 3 (http://www.1969supersport.com/fpn3.html)




FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION PART 4 (http://www.1969supersport.com/flrpan.html)




FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION PART 5 (http://www.1969supersport.com/fp.html)




FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION PART 6 (http://www.1969supersport.com/flo.html)




FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION PART 7 (http://www.1969supersport.com/7floorpan.html)




FLOOR PAN INSTALLATION PART 8 (http://www.1969supersport.com/fpl.html)

Buy some basic tools and get at it. The only way to learn is to do it yourself. If you mess up do it again. We all learned that way. Nobody woke up one day a body and paint expert.

If you decide to do it yourself, you will need the two most expensive tools to start with.
You will need a good air supply. Don't be tempted to buy less then you really need. You need at least a 5 hp, two stage air compressor. You will also need a mig welder. There have been lots of threads here about various welders and you can search and read a lot of users opinions. Next up will be a cut off tool and small grinder. With that you are set to do basic panel replacement.
A good air sander and some 80 grit paper will remove the paint from that body. Then you can see what needs to be cut out. If there is cracking in the finish, you should remove all the paint and get to bare metal again.

I do not agree with the statement that there is only one way to learn. Here is a second way: Take a basic bodywork class at a local vocational school or county college. You can get excellent training and get to use their tools to learn.

I do not agree with the statement that there is only one way to learn. Here is a second way: Take a basic bodywork class at a local vocational school or county college. You can get excellent training and get to use their tools to learn.
Thats a great idea, and I was going to do it but there is nothing available in my area.

If you decide to do it yourself, you will need the two most expensive tools to start with.
You will need a good air supply. Don't be tempted to buy less then you really need. You need at least a 5 hp, two stage air compressor. You will also need a mig welder. There have been lots of threads here about various welders and you can search and read a lot of users opinions. Next up will be a cut off tool and small grinder. With that you are set to do basic panel replacement.
A good air sander and some 80 grit paper will remove the paint from that body. Then you can see what needs to be cut out. If there is cracking in the finish, you should remove all the paint and get to bare metal again.
Thanks for the advice. I believe I will tackle this myself and leave the paint to a pro. Hell I had never completely rebuilt a motor before ten years ago and I seemed to do alright with that.

I already have an electric DeWalt angle grinder can that be used in lieu of the air tools to cut out the qtr?

To me the painting is much easier then the metal replacement!

I found that body work is not that difficult. Take your time and you can do it. I have replaced metal and filled with bondo. I would suggest metal replacement if there is a lot of rust and then the bondo help smooth out the welds/seams. I use a cutoff wheel, haven't tried the plamsa torch yet mostly because of the heat and I wasn't sure what would happen with the thin metal twisting.

I like bondo with fiberglass in it, one product is called kitty hair. That stuff fills great and has a lot of strength with the reinforcment.

Once I like the sanded bondo I use a glazing compound or sometimes called a finishing filler to fill the small pin holes and scratches (otherwise you can't get regular bondo smooth enough) And always use primer on the finished spot, paint wont have the same finish without it.

I have someone else spray my paint. I don't have the patience or technique down yet. Just me though.

I am fortunate to have a junky 1995 Nissan Sentra with 186,000 miles on it. I spent the last three weeks removing a front fender, banging out a huge dent, filling it and sanding and priming it. I am going to paint it today. Glad to have this opportunity to try my hand at body work. Would I do body work on my 1980 El Camino? I don't think so.

I think you are better off to replace quarters and not use skins. The really rusty areas, don't get replaced with skins. I think the full quarters are actually easier to replace, and have a lot less visable welds and bodywork to do. Use a cut off tool with a small disc and cut off the original panel, an inch or so from each edge, then study how it is welded together and see what is required to remove what is left. You will need a spot weld cutter and a hammer and chisel! If you really take your time, you can remove a quarter in a half a day and save all the original adjoining panels. You can cut off the remaining edges a little at a time. When you get the new metal, take forever getting it to fit. You will need to tweak/twist/bend/hammer/clamp the new panel to fit, but working slow is a plus at this stage.