Did a search on this an really didn't see anything. Are there any comments on running manual disk brakes? Is there a big difference without the booster that is worth mentioning. I've only seen one reply that said they loved their setup. I'm mainly concerned about any potential vaccum issues. Also thinking that the control and feel may possibly be better. Thanks in advance for any help.

Bryan,

I'm probably the one that said he loved it! It rocks in my opinion. Very good pedal feel. Doesn't take anything to get the car to stop quickly. I know BC here did the same on his BB due to vacume issues. He liked it as well. Several folks that have driven my 68 were worried about it, but said the car felt great with them.

It's just power assist. It doesn't make you stop faster, just assists so YOU don't have to put down as much force. I have power disc's in my car, i like how easy it is to stop my car, my girlfriends hates it becasue i can really make a jerky stop if i am not careful.

If your calipers have a large enough piston surface area to have a reasonable pressure requirement, and you can size a MC that offers reasonable pedal travel while still allowing you to use the brakes to the fullest, manual brakes are the way to go IMO-- they have by far the best and most precise pedal feel.

If you have calipers with small piston areas (such as guys like me with PBRs) that need higher line pressures to work well, then manuals really aren't an option because a MC with a bore size small enough to generate the required pressure would have WAY too far of a pedal stroke.

Troy

Cool - thanks for the replys. The bear package that I have was ordered as a manual setup. When its time I'll just install it as is. Appreciate the input.

i run stock GM discs and a manual MC in my 66 and love it. had power discs with my old small block, but if i didn't get it stopped on the first pump i was hurting (no vacuum left) i ditched the power setup when i dropped in the BB, for space and vacuum reasons. i love the discs even more now.

Originally posted by bw72chev:
Cool - thanks for the replys. The bear package that I have was ordered as a manual setup. When its time I'll just install it as is. Appreciate the input. A word of advice: if those Baer's you have use the PBR calipers, be prepared to order a booster.

I ran my Baer's as manuals for about a month-- the pedal was ROCK FREAKING HARD. With muscle I could stop the car OK around town, but I could NOT stop the car quickly, even using both feet. The PBR calipers have small piston areas and need a lot of line pressure to clamp down on the rotors, more pressure than you can generate with a manual setup and a master cylinder with a resonable pedal stroke. You could probably run the PBR's as manuals with a 13/16" or maybe a 7/8" bore MC, but the pedal travel would be so long it would hit the floor before you could stop the car.

Just a word of warning that you probably won't be happy with them. However, the manual MC they provide (15/16" bore) works GREAT in a power application; just the right amount of pedal travel.

Troy

How about some details on the master cylinders you guys are using with the stock disk setup?
I have had the 78 malibu big bore manual disk master mentioned to me in the past.
What are all you guys using?
graemlins/beers.gif

i used the manual drum m/c work just fine.now i have a 71 so your set up maybe diffrent than mine.the drum m/c has a 1 inch bore the same as the manual disc m/c used in the 70-76 camaros or the 70-71 31w olds cuttles(my m/c is about the same as olds)or 73-74 a body gm cars.i hope this helps


chris

fro71-I have been told that you cant use a drum master on a disk set up due to the small master cylinder resevoir being unable to keep up to the fluid demand of the larger disk brake calipers versus the smaller wheel cylinders of a drum brake car.
Summed up if I understand this correctly,you could empty the master when you step on the brakes.
Maybe some of our brake system gurus can chime in here on this one?

i'm just using a manual disc MC for a 67 vette. i bought it from a local auto parts store. it was like $30 or so and works great.

johnny i had heard that to but i dont have problem and i check the fluid often.that 70-71 w31 olds m/c looks just like my drum one with a small resevoir.i tryed the vette m/c that mad is talking about and it didnt work for me that why the drum m/c is on there.plus i dont run a proportioning valve either i still dont have any problems.the front wheels spin free and i have no rear wheel lock up.i dont know it works but it does.

chris

fro71-no presure valve issues? I know the wheel cylinders like a bunch of constant presure on them to hold the little pins against the shoes and the disk calipers like far less I think.

johnny no problems and is been like this for three years now no weird pad wear nothing works fine.your right on track with the drums needing a little presure on them.in a drum brake set up there are residual valves in m/c ports that hold a little presure on them.disc dont need them because it would lock them up put to much presure on them.i check my drum m/c before i put it on and those residual valves arent there(maybe why i dont have a rear wheel lock up problem) its a reman so i thought its made wrong but its not i checked two more same thing (work for carqest)so i tryed it.as for the proportioning valve a freind told not to use it he worked at a street rod shop and had lots of problems with them he to has a chevelle 71 same as mine and the same brake set up works fine.he did a few disc change overs while working there and never used a prop valve on any of them no problems.


chris