Upper A-Arms [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Upper A-Arms


pages67
Apr 19th, 03, 10:14 PM
Got front suspension apart except upper a-arms. Can't get the cross-shaft past the studs used for alignment. The studs appear to be bolts, but they seem to be pressed in. Any suggestions?

pstonhead
Apr 19th, 03, 10:29 PM
they are, sort of. On the shaft of the bolt just before the heads is a splined or a sheraded part of the bolt that seats with the mounting portion of the frame. This prevents the bolt from turning once it has seated. The bolts are not pressed in, but they are drawn in with the nuts. I got mine out by placing a scab piece of hardwood over the ends of the bolts and hitting them with a hammer. A pointed air chisel will work also, just don't wack the ends of the bolts directly with a hammmer or you may damage the threads.

pages67
Apr 19th, 03, 10:55 PM
Thanks for the info - Did you have the engine out of the car? There's no room to get at that end - any ideas??

DG
Apr 19th, 03, 11:32 PM
If you use a BFH and hit the upper arm where the upper ball joint is (toward the motor) the cross shaft/arm will move toward the motor. Don't go medievil, just persuade it.

I had to drop the headers, and the steering shaft/column for clearence to do this on a 65 Chevelle last week.

pages67
Apr 19th, 03, 11:38 PM
Thanks - got the cross-shaft loose but was hoping to not have to disconnect steering and headers, thought that there might be a way to remove the studs/bolts.

paulymuller
Apr 20th, 03, 9:52 PM
Nope, that was my 65 Chevelle DG mentioned and even though we didn't want to, we had to drop the steering and headers to even have a chance. It only took about 15 minutes though, and some new header gaskets. Then they popped right out.

BC
Apr 21st, 03, 12:53 PM
I have used the method pstonhead described by just knocking the two bolts out of the mounting bracket. Just be careful you don't damage the bolts or the holes, otherwise, they won't go back in and hold!

Bill C.

Slo307
Apr 21st, 03, 3:55 PM
I have wiggled the arm up and down (with the ball joint disconnected and the nuts loose) and used a pry bar to push the bolts out. You can also use a large c-clamp with a socket or tube for the bolt head to go into and push it out. This can be done by loosening the bushing bolts or nuts and move the arm up to get the c-clamp in place. The c-clamp method works great for nice painted frame car.

Cecil
Apr 26th, 03, 12:45 AM
Originally posted by Slo307:
You can also use a large c-clamp with a socket or tube for the bolt head to go into and push it out. This can be done by loosening the bushing bolts or nuts and move the arm up to get the c-clamp in place. The c-clamp method works great for nice painted frame car. graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif Worked like a charm! I didn't even have to cuss!!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

apagan
Apr 27th, 03, 10:29 PM
another posibility is to just turn them loose using a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar. if you worry about them breaking loose after reassembly just loc-tite them.

pages67
Apr 28th, 03, 1:08 AM
Finally got a chance to try slo307's method - really easy and quick

THANKS

Palkojj
Apr 28th, 03, 8:48 AM
I just did this on my 67. It was late, I was tired and #!@#! off. I just took an impact to them and off they spun. Pretty cromagnon, but it worked. Turns out the bolts were pretty rusty where the serrations were. One of them was already loose! GM carries the bolts still. I ordered 4 new ones ($10) and they are fine, nice and tight. The locktite is a good idea. graemlins/thumbsup.gif