I have a 69 SS Chevelle and replacing all the rear control arm bushings. The old bushings have the rubber protruding 1/8-1/4" past the inner bolt tube/sleeve of the bushing. The new bushings I have, have the bolt tube/sleeve protruding 1/8" past the rubber bushing. So, here is the question, which is the correct to use and why?. It seems to me that the old bushing would be tight to hold all the arms from moving. The new bushings with the bolt tube/sleeve protruding 1/8" past the rubber bushing would allow each arm to move freely. So how can I load the suspension if the new bushings allow the arms to move. Or, should I try to find bushings like the old ones?

I have never used them so I can't say, I always try to use Moog when/where possible.

Maybe someone who has used them in the past will chime in and give their opinion.

Just for reference, Is this what you are referring to? This is a comparison of two bushings I have side by side (not sure what brand is on left). :thumbsup:

Moog on the right in all photo's. :thumbsup:

Yes LS7, That is what I'm talking about. The metal inner sleeve extends past the rubber as shown in your photos. On my old bushings the rubber extends past the metal sleeve. Dont know if that makes any difference in loading the suspension?.

The rate of the bushing is set by the density of the rubber, diameter of the bushing and the length. Who is the manufacturer of the new bushing?

The stock control arm bushings are supposed to install such that the metal inner sleeve is clamped tight between the mounts by the bolt.

The suspension flex is absorbed by twisting in the rubber. It does not rotate until the bushings get way way worn.

In poly bushings, the bushing rotates on the sleeve or in the shell.

The bushing construction may look different, but if the inner sleeves are the same, or the correct length, they should work.

I'm getting ready to install new control arm bushings myself, but have never done it. My old ones are out, I've sandblasted and painted, and I'm ready to put the new ones in. Do you just grease them up and use a BFH?

I'm getting ready to install new control arm bushings myself, but have never done it. My old ones are out, I've sandblasted and painted, and I'm ready to put the new ones in. Do you just grease them up and use a BFH?


Tom Lowe posted a video on installing the bushings. Basically clean and apply a small amount of oil to inside of ears on housing and around the outside shell of the bushing. He used 4x4 or 6x6 and a 5lb hammer. Two whacks and they were in, of course he knows what he's doing and done it lot's of times.

I'm getting ready to install new control arm bushings myself, but have never done it. My old ones are out, I've sandblasted and painted, and I'm ready to put the new ones in. Do you just grease them up and use a BFH?

I put mine in the vise and pressed them in.... Just make sure to cut something to wedge in between the ears so they don't flex in while the bushing is pushed into place...

I put mine in the vise and pressed them in.... Just make sure to cut something to wedge in between the ears so they don't flex in while the bushing is pushed into place...

Oops, for some reason I was thinking he just meant the ones in the differential housing. Vise or balljoint press and as Scott said put something inside the arm so it doesn't collapse.

OK, thanks guys!

The new bushings are the MOOG K5161. And how do you get the old bushings out, and press the new bushings in with bending the arms? What about the two bushings on the rearend?

What site is David Lowe's video on ,so I can view it?

What site is David Lowe's video on ,so I can view it?
YouTube, he posted links in this forum, here it is.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262299

Can't find the other right now. You can take the arms to a suspension shop and have them replaced. Or you can rent a balljoint press or make one, search this forum, lot's of tips on how to remove them.

I'd love to watch that but with my dial up it would probably take 3 hours to download.

I just did my bushings last Friday. I did put them in freezer overnite.
HELPED? WHO KNOWS! I ended up buying a ball joint press and installing them with home made adaptors. used small socket between arms while
pressing them togather. 1st bushing took me about 45 min..other 5 about
30 minutes..The ones in the diff about 45 min. Couldn't get them in with
BIG HAMMER. pm if I can help you jay

If you know a good machine shop have them use an arbor press to install the control arm bushings.

Thanks, I'm going there today to have the pressed.

I just did my bushings last Friday. I did put them in freezer overnite.
HELPED? WHO KNOWS!

I helps even more if you heat up the control arm before putting them in.. I use this meathod when doing press fit bearings or races....Just put the bearing or race in the freezer, heat what it's going in with a simple propane tourch, then just drop the new bearing or race into place.. When everything gets back to room temp it's a press fit....

Hey Scott, do you even have to press them in a vice when you do it that way?