I've been researching the tall spindle conversion on here and from what I see the only problems related to this swap are the lower balljoints needing modifications to fit the stock A body control arms, and the negative effects of steering arm location on the tall spindles. I think I may cut out the correct balljoint housing out of the 73-88 tall spindle control arms and weld it into my stock A body control arm so the later style lower balljoint will fit without modification. At least this way I'd get out of the machining costs related to turning the balljoints down .080 to get them to fit and replacements would be an over the counter and install deal. Why hasn't anyone here done this? Heck even if the welding was farmed out to a professional it seems like a far better way to go IMO. Now on the steering arm height issue, I understand that the outer tie rod mounting point is about 1/2" higher than the stock geometry according to the info I've found here. And also the Tall spindle ride height is about 1.5 inches lower than the stock setup. If I were to use stronger front springs maybe the ride height would come back closer to stock and also lower the outer tierod mounting location helping to cure the 1/2" difference in steering arm location?Heck, maybe one of those 1" thick round rubber coil spring spacers would even do the trick.

Some interesting ideas however, the lower bal joints only cost about 20 to turn down both of them, I paid 16.00 for both. Cutting off and welding on the weakest part of the control arm and also the first place that is going to crack is not a good idea. I do recommend welding on that arm, but to reinforce it not put it back together. Many of us are already working on methods to correct the steering geometry, as soon as the first guy gets it nailed down I'm sure the results will be posted. I guess you could space the coil spring but why, the point of installing the tall spindle is to improve the camber curve under bump conditions for improved handling. Installing spacers raises the CG, totally contrary to anything related to handling.

Here is an older page from one of the Monte list guys explaining how he got around the bump steer issue with the disc brake upgrade. Hope it helps.

http://jeffd.50megs.com/bump_steer_mods_page.htm

The B-body spindle puts the tie rod end lower than the stock steering arm. You can't use a change in the ride height to fix the bump steer problem. I wish it was that simple. It's in the geometry. Look at this page at the bottom. http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13

If you really want to change the arm then buy the ball joint sleeve from a place like Longacre or http://www.stockcarproducts.com/ and weld it in.

Peter

I don't see any problem welding the larger balljoint housing into the A body control arm. In fact if done properly it should be stronger than stock if gusseted and reinforced. Just an idea to make serviceability easier down the road. bjquiroz, thanks for posting that link on the bumpsteer issue. I thought the steering arms were higher when actually they are lower. Wouldn't lowering the steering box and idler arm work to get all components aligned. Or maybe the steering arm holes could be welded and redrilled enabling the tie rod ends to be mounted to the top of the arm. The arms are forged steel, easy to weld.

The problem with cutting and welding the stock arm is not the strength of the weld itself, it is the weld zone that becomes weaker than the surrounding metal. It is a fact of welding, the weld zone becomes the weak link and there is nothing you can do about it. Ordinarily this wouldn't be a huge issue except that this is the area on these arms that will break if at all.

The steering arms are not forged steel-I wish, then you could bent, splice, or add to the arms to change bump steer. The arms, as are the rest of the spindle, are cast.

For the tall spindle conversion you could always ream out the b-body spindle to accept the stock ball joint stud. This guy scarebird was selling reamed out spindles on ebay for a while for 85 bucks a whack. I don't know if he has any left though

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2488134882&category=34199&sspagename=WDVW

How often do you change ball joints? Seems like alot of work to safe $20 once every ten years or so.

Circle track guys have this thing all sorted out already. They use an IROC Z drag link to relocate the inner tie rod position and then use heims instead of outer tie rods. You drill out the outer tie rod hole on the spindle to be a straight through hole with no taper. Then you use spacers on a bolt to lower the positon of the outer tie rod. Check out a Harris dirt modified if you get a chance. That's how they're done and they use all the same components most of us A body guys want to convert to.

Also check out an AFCO and Speedway catalog. They have all kinds of helpful things for this mod. Taller ball joints, reamers to taper your own spindles, weld in rings to adapt different ball joints. Not to mention all of the disc brake conversion stuff that's in there. A wealth of information and very reasonably priced.

If you want your spindles reamed, send them to me I'm sure I can get it done for $85 each :) maybe a little less........ :)


Wally

I got my spindles done for 20/pr. You guys need to shop around a little.

The bumpsteer issue is most easy to resolve with rod end outers and a Howe centerlink.