Tim67
Mar 9th, 04, 12:43 AM
I just recived my disc brake conversion kit and had a few questions.
The stock proportioning valve on the frame is smaller then the new one that came with the kit. The fitting on the line that goes from the valve to the front left brake seems to be larger then the female fitting on the new valve. Is there an adapter out there I should get? Should I use the stock valve? Do I need to replace that line and maybe some others? Also, no bracket came with the new valve to mount to the frame like old?
Thanks all
Tim
TronDD
Mar 9th, 04, 7:28 AM
Your local autoparts store should have a selection of brakeline fittings. Bring the prop valve and the line, if you can, and tell them to make it fit. smile.gif
A lot of the people converting put the prop valve under the master cylinder. There is a bracket for that but it means changing all the associated lines.
Tim.
K_Janisch
Mar 10th, 04, 1:32 PM
Tim
I mounted my proportioning valve directly to the frame using a long bolt. There was a hole (factory installed not rust ;) ) in the frame - I simply put a bolt through the hole and through a large "mounting" hole on the valve. I had to use a large washer on one side of the frame. Worked well for me.
Kurt
sidlev
Mar 11th, 04, 7:08 PM
Tim,
First off, you cannot use the stock valve. If you do, the car will nose dive badly when you apply the brakes. Read the literature that came with the kit for an explanation of why.
I just finished my 67 conversion to front disc using an MP kit.
As you said, the rear brake line fitting on the car is smaller than the fitting on the new valve. I cut the flare off of the old line and put the right fitting on (got it at NAPA for a few bucks), then doubled flared the line and was ready to go. (you must double flare brake lines)
As for the valve, I did not like the mounting under the master cyclinder option. That meant I had to run two front brake lines and one rear up to the MC, which looked home-made. I mounted the valve on the frame right where the old one came off so the lines connected right up. I used the bracket that came with the new valve, but applied a hacksaw and file to it until it fit the way I wanted it to. I then ran two new lines from it to the MC.
All in all it worked very well. I have not driven it yet, as the engine is out, but I did pump a vacuum up on the booster and step on the pedal (after bleeding) just to feel the power assist.
Good luck,
Sid