I was just wondering if anyone is runnning drum brakes on all 4's. If so are there any updates to make better stopping power.

I have drums all around on my '68. If I were to go with discs in front, I'd get the correct GM brakes for my ride.

That said, the correct 4-piston '68 disc brakes aren't thought to be a whole lot better than the drums, and they have a reputation of leaking unless you know someone that sleeves them properly to reduce or eliminate that problem.

There are lots better options than the stock factory brakes. I notice that people seem to like the Wildwood brake retrofit the best, but someone who's done the conversion should be answering here.

Where you want to be looking for answers is in the Disc Brake Conversion forum:

http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=33

dern skippy! I can't stop worth a crap either. I was thinking of going to the parts store and seing about aluminum drums off an Iroc camaro but that is in hopes of better accelleration... sorry graemlins/clonk.gif

If changing to disks is not possible, then consider upgraded linings for your drum brakes. Some users of this site have installed Praise Dyno linings with good results. There was a test of them in either Car Craft or Chevy High Performance a few months back. They seem to work pretty well.

I just swapped out my entire 4 wheel drum system because I couldn't stop the darn car. I bought the fronts from a local resto shop and replaced everything right down to the spindles. I'm not 100% but I think the system is from a later model maybe a 71. For the rears I bought from Master Power Brakes their rear drum upgrade kit. It comes with new backing plates pre assembled with huge 11" drums. They just barely sneak into my 14" ralleys. The upgrade was a snap, just pull the axels and replace the whole set-up. Uses the existing e brake and took about an hour and a half to do. Most of that time spent re-attaching the e brake cable. I have yet to drive the car, waiting on my motor to be finished but i'm anticipating good results. I know you can use the exisiting spindles but I wanted to save all my original parts intact. The kit from MP was about $375.00, about half the cost of rear discs and alot less work.

I have a '64 Malibu with 4 drum brakes and stops just fine, my '67 Camaro 4 drums and very scary in the braking department even with all new brakes it takes alot of pedal pressure to stop the car. My '68 elCamino SS 4 drums and also a leg work out trying to stop it. Some one told me the elCamino would have came with power drum brakes, all though my car doesn't have a brake booster, so I'm not sure about that one. Dave

I run manual drums all around on my 69, and power drum all the way around on my 69 Cutlass. Both cars actually stop very well. You could always add a power booster to it. I may do that to the 69 chevelle, just to help it out a little.

I have four wheel drums with a power booster and it suprised me how well it stops. After I got the car I had the brakes done and had the best drums and shoes I could get. Then I replaced the power booster(well my uncle put it in for me). I am not going to say that they stop has well has discs(I know better), but they do a pretty good job till I can afford to swap to disc brakes.

How easy is it to add a power brake booster to the 4 drum system? Theres one in OPG for $229. What are the best brake shoes to get without paying dearly for them.

I have power drum brakes on all four corners.Stops fine.

Adding a booster is easy, just pull the master cylinder off the firewall, bolt it to the booster, and bolt the whole thing back to the firewall. You will need to move the rod on the brake pedal down to the next lower hole, and get some new hard lines for a power drum car, they need to be longer to work properly. You can go get a remanufactured booster from any local auto parts store relatively cheap. I got a booster/master cylinder reman. by A-1 Cardone from ABC Auto for $130. Don't forget to bench bleed the master cylinder. As for shoes, I have plain old Bendix shoes on both the 69 Chevelle and the 69 Cutlass.

I've manual drums on my '65. It brakes well enough for my daily 7-mi drive to and from work on the street.

I had a "refreshing" experience (as in refresh your clothing after you soiled it) once on a '66 with the same set up while exiting a freeway. I replaced the '66's with 2" drop spindles and picked parts at the junk yard to complete the conversion. The improvements were definitely obvious (and I spent about the same $ of a new kit once everything was over smile.gif ).

I also had a '67 Nova with manual drum brakes - this was an ill-tempered brake system on the street and on the freeway - I don't know how similar it is to the Malibu's.

So if i put a booster on i can just use the same MC? What about updating it? What about the proportioning valve? Where can i find new hard lines?

Power drums all around here. I have no problem stopping.

Drum brakes get a pretty bad rap- but most people complaining about them are bitching about old worn out stuff- of course its gonna suck. graemlins/clonk.gif Worn out stock disk setups suck too.

My girlfriends 69 Camaro has 4 wheel manual drum brakes. When I bought the car for her last fall, it would barely stop. First thing i did the week after i bought it was take it to my suspension guy & had him order brand new EVERYTHING for the brakes- 4 new drums, 4 new wheel cylinders, new hoses front & the center hose for the rear- Put it all back together, bled it real good. Stops like a champ now graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Yeah, its still prone to fade when they really get heated up(i've only experienced it once when i had to make about 5 emergency stops on the freeway one after another), but for her daily driving it stops the car great.

I bought a used diskbrake setup for her car this past christmas, but I'm gonna wait to put it on until her new front brakes wear out- No point in throwing away the money i already have in them.

If someone is budget minded and is not out road racing their car- I think drum brakes when properly replaced & tuned up will be more than adequate for stopping the car.

Mine stops with drums.Even @110mph in the 1/4
Alittle hairy, but stops :D

MY VELLE (http://www.prestage.com/Member+Pages/1201.aspx)

Originally posted by blaster:
So if i put a booster on i can just use the same MC? What about updating it? What about the proportioning valve? Where can i find new hard lines? You can use the same master cylinder, but you will need to have the correct pushrod in the booster, it comes with 2 of them a short and a long. You can get the hard lines from any of the resto parts suppliers, or you could go direct to Right Stuff. Your car does not have a prop valve, it has what is called a distribution block down on the frame, you can just leave it where it is and reuse it. Prop valves are only used on disc brake cars