Anyone else have problems with these lines leaking? I just finished replacing every single line on the car, including all three braided steel hoses from classic tube. When i asked about sealing issues, the guy at classic tube said "no problems" Well, there were two fittings that leaked. At the rear axle where the hard line meets the hose, and the same joint at the left front wheel. Tightening fixed the front one, but the rear, I wound up replacing the flare to AN fitting and sealing the threads.

I had a couple of trouble spots at the distribution block. I think it was due to the lines not being bent precisely and not going straight into the connection. I had big problems just getting the lines lined up.

I used thread sealer on every fitting.

Some poeple have said that copper washers are required for stainless lines to not leak, though.

Tim.

I installed stainless lines from Fine Lines last year all the way around. In the instruction manual, it specifically stated that using sealer was recommended due to the fact that stainless is much harder than regular steel lines therefore they are sometimes more difficult to get a tight seal. The sealer is added insurance that the flare is sealed.

On my '69, I replaced all the brake lines with stainless steel items and OE rubber hoses purchased from "The Right Stuff". I followed their instructions(tighten,loosen,tighten)and no sealer.This is common practice with any SS fitting,because of the hardness.The only problem I had was with a rebuilt caliper that had some corrosion where the copper washer seals,and that was my fault for not noticing it.

Well, this is all great information that I would loved to have had BEFORE I installed them -- thanks classic tube for not including any type of instructions, just a big box with stainless steel lines. If I have any more problems, guess I'll try that "tighten, loosen, retighten" and some thread sealer at all joints. Otherwise the lines fit good, just an obvious lack of instruction on their part-be advised if your in the market for new lines, classic tube includes NO INSTRUCTIONS

I used Fine Lines SS lines on my car, other than having to tighten the connections on the metering block, I havn't had any leaks at all. So far it's working perfectly, and this is even with Hydroboost added to the system, which can generate considerably more pressure than the old manual brakes. I didn't use any sealer or copper washers or anything. Guess I got lucky...

Yeah, I've got the hydroboost too with an auto meter pressure gauge that really shows the difference you can generate with the boost. With the engine off, I can generate around 800-900 psi. With the engine on and hydro-assist, I can bury that gauge past 2000 psi with very little effort. Kind of scary since the lines and fittings are rated @ 2000 psi.

We're looking for either longer rubber lines, or if possible, stainless braided lines for the front calipers.

We did the S-10 disc brake conversion on our '69, and have stainless hard lines thruout.

This was a drum/drum originally with power brakes, so we also need the new required master cylinder and the prop. valve (Adjustable).

Any recommendations and other info greatly appreciated.

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For custom front and rear flexible hoses, I went to http://www.performanceplumbing.com/

Give them a call, they have great customer service. The kit included everything including new tabs for where the hose mates to the hard line, which you do have to weld on. You can use your existing tabs though.

Originally posted by 69boo307:
For custom front and rear flexible hoses, I went to http://www.performanceplumbing.com/

Give them a call, they have great customer service. The kit included everything including new tabs for where the hose mates to the hard line, which you do have to weld on. You can use your existing tabs though. Thanks, we'll give them a call.

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what kind of thread sealer are you guys talking about? why would you use thread sealer when the flare is the sealing surface?

thanX good info---- just ordered complete ss set from the right stuff

I concur with jbalch, there should be no reason to use thread sealer on a flare fitting. In addition, the threads on the fitting have nothing to do with sealing the brake line. Be careful and suspicious if you are leaking from a fitting, if it takes sealant to stop the leak something is not mating correctly. Remember you are dealing with a lot of pressure here and not only that, you can introduce air into the lines when not on the brake. I read earlier on in this string that tightening-loosening-tightening was recommended, this is a much better approach to getting the surfaces of the flare and mating inverted flare to seat correctly. If there is still a leak then the flare is probably not made correctly. One other thing, the flare on most car brake lines is 45 degrees, some manufacturers use 37 degree on their steel braided line sets and AN style fittings - Never try to mate a 37 degree fitting with a 45 degree! I have used stainless steel brake lines in my car and made the ends with a 45 degree double flare. Use or pay a little extra for a good flaring tool and save yourself the trouble of leaks. I don't have the name of the tool I used here with me at work but I can tell you that it cost me over $35 and does most types of flares including bubble, single and double flare on 1/8 to 3/8" copper and stainless steel lines (the stainless steel is much harder than the copper but the tool still managed to do a bubble flare on my 3/8" stainless steel gas line).

I used all SS lines from classic tube, with no leaks.

When installing make sure both ends of the inverted flare mating surfaces are clean. Sealer should not be used, if the sealer is making the seal, there is a definate problem and a potential for a future leak as the sealer will not keep sealed with the high pressure of a brake system.

I have heard but never tried,... that some old timers will "lube" both ends of the inverted flare with brake fluid prior to assembly...they claim to ease the parts together to make a smooth seal.

I have classic tube stainless lines on my car and even with a hydroboost generating approximately 9 billion psi of brake pressure I don't have any leaks.

I lightly lube the flare with brake fluid before installing; the key is to slide the flare nut back and put a dab on the back of the flare on the line where the flare nut spins when you tighten it down. This allows it to spin and tighten up much easier. I then tightened and loosened each fittings twice, then tightened it down for good. No leaks anywhere.

If you have leaks, try the tighten and loosen method and put a dab of fluid or light oil on the backside of the flare and the threads of the tube nut before tightening it.

Troy

I agree with Sam sealer dont seal 1200 psi it does hovever lubricate threads , ever tighten and hear squeal >>