Since I'm bored lately and waiting 'til the summer/fall is over to do some serious upgrades, I thought I'd list what I plan on doing....and ask what other people are planning on doing.

On the slate so far, an S-60 with more than likely 3.73 gears, a used/rebuilt Jerico 4 speed(need new O/D adapters also to fit this, maybe a little tunnel mod/extension) with somewhere around a 2.88 first gear, also I'm going to install the bottle with maybe another fuel pump and its own dedicated line and of course an ignition retard box from Martin(will add a dial inside the cabin also). I think this will pretty much entail most of what I'll do since it's so expensive.

So, what're your projected winter projects?

fix and install 427, Lower the rear, get matching rims for front, manual steering, isolator on the oil pressure gauge, fab some exhaust, driveline, manual valvebody... the list goes on

Stroker.

Big Stroker

HEADS :cool: + CAM :D = 12's :hurray:

HEADS :cool: + CAM+ NO2 :D = 11's :hurray:

Fixed

Hmmm, TOG says Heads:cool: but he already has aluminum heads.....something is definitely cooking down in the South Sound.

What is this "winter" you speak of?;)

I want to get the car finished and start racing for points in Jan.

Getting the 421 "refreshed" :Dheh heh heh:D

Getting my front suspension upgraded. I have AFX Spindles and 13" DBA discs. Need to get the SC&C a-arms and order my C6 Z51 calipers to complete it.

Getting my front suspension upgraded. I have AFX Spindles and 13" DBA discs. Need to get the SC&C a-arms and order my C6 Z51 calipers to complete it.

Erik, your never going to get around to that... :noway: Just sell it to me for 1/2 price.

Front suspension redo + disk brake conversion

I'm going to be doing the front suspension redo for a friend of mine's 66 442 as well.. that should pay for the stuff i want to do above, and if i'm lucky, enough left over to buy a 455 block to tear apart.

I'm thinking I might freshen up my transmision and driveshaft...

Maybe I should sell Rambo or someone else my front disk setup and that would help fund large 4 wheel disk brakes... ?

Maybe I should sell Rambo or someone else my front disk setup and that would help fund large 4 wheel disk brakes... ?

I have nearly everything i need except the rubber lines, prop valve, mc, hardlines... the small stuff.

Maybe I should sell Rambo or someone else my front disk setup and that would help fund large 4 wheel disk brakes... ?

John needs it more than anybody :yes:

John needs it more than anybody :yes:

I think he already owns a conversion kit, just needs to install it.

I'm also kicking around the idea of going to manual front disc with the two pot master next spring. It's going to have to wait until after the trans/driveshaft "freshening".

I don't count projects by Seasons because I drive the car year round... BUT.
SOON:
Fix Left Front turn signal, bad socket.
Brakes (Ordered the rear drums/shoes the other night)
New Trans cooler line.
Install Functional Non-f'ed up Trans Dipstick
Buy Chads Mystery Cam.

Before Winter:
New Heater Core
Fix/Replace Windshield wiper switch (only comes on when you press down the sprayer button)
Rear Tires

Overall:
New Hoses for Heater/Radiator
Install Edelbrock 2101+ Holley 4160 600CFM
Rebuild& Install the 305 HO heads (COMPRESSION!)
Install Chads mystery rv cam. (Or my -929)
New Distro with nice wires and good looms and such.
Headers.


FAR Future:
Win the lotto/invent something that makes me rich/get a job that pays three times as much as I make now. Decide whether I want a Retro Road Race/Stocker or a Drag car.

I'm thinking I might freshen up my transmision and driveshaft...

l:)

It's good you have such a great sense of humor. :thumbsup:

I'd just be a cheap skate and try and reuse that trans and driveline. A little epoxy and a few tac welds and throw it back together.

i'd just be a cheap skate and try and reuse that trans and driveline. A little epoxy and a few tac welds and throw it back together.

my old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.
:d :d :d

Finally rebuild RatVette's frt suspension
Get the bumpers re-chromed
continue to refine the Elky

I'm thinking I might freshen up my transmision and driveshaft...

Ya THINK?;)

I'd just be a cheap skate and try and reuse that trans and driveline. A little epoxy and a few tac welds and throw it back together.

Well, I've got this JBWeld that should take care of the trans...
and my dad has a porta-power that should work to straighten the driveshaft... wrap it all in duct tape and it should be all good.:D

Well, I've got this JBWeld that should take care of the trans...
and my dad has a porta-power that should work to straighten the driveshaft... wrap it all in duct tape and it should be all good.:D

Red Green approved repair right there!

How did this thread turn into a three ring circus so fast???:D

How did this thread turn into a three ring circus so fast???:D

When the place is infested with assclowns, it's gonna become a 3-ring circus quick.:yes:

Greg, could you use some 3" water pipe for a driveline? I got a chunk if you can and if you kept the broken ears from the U joint, I bet I can weld them back on.

tub out the car......

1.) Suspension changes, shocks, spring, etc....
2.) Change gears from 4.57 to 4.10. Anybody need 4.57 pro gears?
3.) Upgrade to a 7al box
4.) Make it to the track more often, with family.

Probably going to happen:
GC steering box swap
Make progress on the 454 build

Would like to happen:
Currie crate rear end and posi
tubular upper control arms & new bushings
new stock LCA's and bushings

Pulling the engine and trans from my 72 and cleaning up the front frame and firewall while I have the front clip off. Then it's on to either putting 4x4s under the body and cleaning up the frame or replacing both quarter panels, hope fully I can do all of the above this winter.

I need to be cloned.

tub out the car......
Sweet! Tub it once by going the biggest you can and the frame rails as narrow as possible so you don't have to do it again when yer "just gotta have wider bigger tires!!!"

that monza is one tight car!!!

that monza is one tight car!!!

Thanks, it's been/is a lot of fun!!!!!!! My E-ticket.

My E-ticket

Martin most people in this group don't even know what a E-ticket is (or was) :D.

Martin most people in this group don't even know what a E-ticket is (or was) :D.
DOH!!!!! Kids:D well, it was the ultimate ride ticket at Disneyland that gave you entrance to (back then) their greatest rides, basically something out of this world would be compared to an "e-ticket" ride.:hurray:

I'm way to young to know that one, I just turned 41. :D

I dont have any major upgrades this winter. The motor will stay in the car :D

I think the only thing I need to do is get the hood painted .

As I sort of suspected, I'm starting my winter projects early. I put the mechanical oil pressure gauge on today, startup was around 25, then I bled the air out of the line and max pressure revving to 2,500-3,000RPM was around 30 but erractic and not steady, once the engine was somewhat warm it pretty much has no pressure at idle.

I looked up my oil pump and pickup, the pump is a Milodon 18750 high volume and high pressure with a Milodon 18314 pickup to fit my Milodon pan....so they all go together. For reference, before this pressure drop I had 65 on startup, 55-60 at idle hot.

Since George and Martin both said they heard something when I was idling, and I'm pretty sure I heard it too...I think the pickup fell off and is rattling in the pan. The pickup has a bracket that goes to the pump but that doesn't mean the bolt didn't fall out and the pickup came loose. I'll try to get the pan off without removing the trans, bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, and backing plate but I'm skeptical with how far the Lakewood housing and backing plate stick down.

Incidentally I found another vibration related problem today that I fixed while looking under the car. The nut and lockwasher came off the starter brace/bracket that bolts to a bracket I made for the mini-starter. I put a larger bolt in there with a nut and lockwasher replacing a spacer I made, and lockwashers with the bolt head and nut on the ends. Hopefully it doesn't come loose again. I also lost a license plate bracket bolt the other day....this car rattles the crap out of everything it seems.

I need to mull over what I really want to do. I'm seriously thinking about doing everything at once from rear diff. to the trans and adapter plates to quieter mufflers and of course fixing the oil pressure problem and rear pan seal. I think I'm going to be off the road for awhile......

Wow some great photos in your photobucket. that 67 is clean and detailed.

Wow some great photos in your photobucket. that 67 is clean and detailed.

Even sweeter in person:yes: And, the owner's a nice guy:thumbsup:

my plans are to build a REAL race car over the winter.:disco:

I decided to at least attempt something related to the oil pressure problem, so I got the car up on blocks and drained the oil. Thought it'd be a bright idea to stick a wire in there to see if the pickup tube had fallen....all indications are that it's still connected and by tapping on the pan it was just the normal thud.

Another bright idea, put the oil back in, remove the distributor and run the pump with an air drill and priming tool just to see if there was some sort of air lock. 25 PSI, just like when I start it up cold. I think I need a new oil pump or something is wrong with this one because this one SUCKS!!!! something must've happened because it was 55 psi one day, 25 the next.
Anybody god any good oil pump recommendations?

Tomorrow or Wednesday will be the fateful pan removal process....should also probably check a few bearings when I have access.

On another note, I'm thinking about buying a Jerico that's for sale with some good stuff and things added....about half price of a new one.

I'll call you in the morning Cobalt...what time do ya awake?
Just post a PM to me, will read it in the AM

I decided to at least attempt something related to the oil pressure problem, so I got the car up on blocks and drained the oil. Thought it'd be a bright idea to stick a wire in there to see if the pickup tube had fallen....all indications are that it's still connected and by tapping on the pan it was just the normal thud.

Another bright idea, put the oil back in, remove the distributor and run the pump with an air drill and priming tool just to see if there was some sort of air lock. 25 PSI, just like when I start it up cold. I think I need a new oil pump or something is wrong with this one because this one SUCKS!!!! something must've happened because it was 55 psi one day, 25 the next.
Anybody god any good oil pump recommendations?

Tomorrow or Wednesday will be the fateful pan removal process....should also probably check a few bearings when I have access.

On another note, I'm thinking about buying a Jerico that's for sale with some good stuff and things added....about half price of a new one.

The 454 of Rogers that went big boom in my nova had a bad pump new. I believe the oil bypass was stuck open. You may have some debri in yours as well. The bypass does open with the HV pmps and if a little something gets in there when it's open a bit, it will keep it open dumping valuable pressure before getting to the bottm end.

Now this is just my theory but I think it's very very likely. Your's could be stuck as well.

put in a titan pump.....

New solid roller cam and all the associated goodies, new moser 12 with 4.11s and a true track, 11's here we come!

Got the engine out today, and upon taking the oil pump apart does this look normal for 200 miles and some more engine running hours on top of that? Looks like some cavitation to me, but I'm no expert.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0800.jpg

I found no debris keeping the bypass open, in fact inside the pump was clean as far as I could tell. I'm going to buy a new pump anyway, since this one says MV55 on it, and I know it's a Melling pump which have been known to fail even though I bought a "Milodon" pump. Thinking about buying a Moroso pump, any other recommendations? I know there's super-expensive pumps out there but I don't think I need one of those.

Also I noticed the soft plug behind the camshaft is leaking(witness oil on backing plate also)...it says 2 7/64" on it but I'm curious if this is really the right size instead of a 2 1/8"? Seems like a really odd size to me. I will be replacing it, what's the normal goo or sealer used with these soft plugs(or any)?

There also seems to be quite a bit of assembly lube leftover floating around....I picked some out of the heads and even a little from the distributor shaft area in the lifter valley, I'm sort of wondering if some of that is plugging the oil galleys...

So, the plan is to get a new pump, throw the oil pan on without a gasket and see what kind of pressure I get with that....meanwhile I'll check out the main bearings. If the bearings look good but still get no pressure, I think my only choice is a tear-down.

EDIT I forgot to post this picture for DAVE....I had a good record of keeping most of the fluids off the floor, but the antifreeze-coolant wouldn't let me pass, it's ALL OVER!!! I need to get some cat litter or I'm going to be very sticky the next time I lay down on the concrete:sad:.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0801.jpg

My winter up grades if I can find the money will be a Liberty 5 spd and a 35 spline locker with axles that will take a whole new center section. My Yukon posi, center and axles will be available.

Cobalt had a visitor today.
The pic of the oil pump guts does not show how well it is worn on the bottom plate.
We concluded a new pump and running 2-3 dist base gaskets. Looks like when tightened, the distrib shaft was pushing all below it downward. Probably some 'blowby' now on the oil pump.
Cobalt also replaced the big plug behind the cam...seeping rather well.
Hope this cures things.

instead of more gaskets, i'd run a shim

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-6059/

Thanks for the visit and ideas George, I never thought about the distributor gaskets:thumbsup:. Tracy said he's always ran 2 dist. gaskets on his SBC engines without a thought.....but after all, this is an aftermarket intake and aftermarket distributor going into a GM block. I'm thinking I will run 3 gaskets for good measure as when compared to the oil pump priming tool, the distributor looks to be about 1/8" longer....plus of course some gasket squish.

The 2 7/64" plug behind the camshaft that I replaced didn't show any witness of sealant used, no wonder it leaked. Still need to buy some bolts to put the block on the 2nd engine stand since Tracy is using the other one....kind of curious what the bearings look like actually.

Looking for an oil pump right now.

Oh yeah, cat litter is only $2.98 per 25lb bag at Wally World, so I bought 2 bags for lots of future use, and now the floor is a lot cleaner:yes:.

EDIT Paul, thanks for the link. I think I will go with the shims.:thumbsup:

Double EDIT Does anyone know what company or companies make an O-ring type seal dipstick? Since bending/breaking mine yesterday with the headers I want to get an easily removable style.

Gonna repaint the block? ;)

Gonna repaint the block? ;)

Yes, the plan is to paint it again.....what color is the real question isn't it.:D Actually I've thought about changing the color just because. silver might look good to match the stripes.

Here's 2 pumps I'm looking at, the first one is a BBC pump that is modified to fit a SBC. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-18770/

This one is the Moroso pump with a welded on pickup tube.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-22134/

Thoughts/experiences with either????

I'm running the summit regular pump in the 327, no problems yet and plenty of pressure.

I use the Melling pumps in most cases, this one uses the larger bbc pickup style 3/4" tube and is the one in my 383.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-10555/

Gonna repaint the block? ;)

Please?

Please?

Are you asking Brett or me?

To be clear about the oil pumps, I have a 8.25" deep pan not a 7.5" pan so obviously the pickup tube needs to fit that. The Melling pump doesn't say what it's made for as far as I can see.....I'm also trying to stay away from Melling due to the bad/thin casting reports and breakage. Somewhere I read that all the companies use the same type casting but I also read that in the 80s or 90s GM demanded the casting be made thinner due to cost cutting, etc.

Are you asking Brett or me?



That was directed toward Mike. That green block looks like...we'll it doesn't match that sweet blue paint job.

I agree JNorton, it doesn't match....but the block was painted in 2003, and the car was painted in 2006. I hadn't decided on a car color other than some shade of blue since the car was originally Marina Blue.

Maybe silver to match the stripes? That might look pretty cool.

Maybe silver to match the stripes? That might look pretty cool.

youd be able to find oil leaks REAL quick :D

youd be able to find oil leaks REAL quick :D

thats why I paint all my motors semi-gloss black.:yes:

Well, it looks like George was right indeed....distributor pushing down on the oil pump, oil pump grinding against itself, sending stuff into the oil and the bearings ate themselves. They are TOAST and the crank needs to be turned.

I'm also going to have new cam bearings put in since the front one has some definite scratches. The camshaft looks fine though, as do the wrist pins in the pistons from what I can tell. I'm also thinking about having the block decked .020 so I can run a normal thickness headgasket instead of the .021 copper shim gasket I ran before....never had the block decked.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0802.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0803.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0804.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0805.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0808.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0809.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0810.jpg

And of course my organized mess...

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/Engine%20stuff/IMG_0807.jpg

Yeah, I'm thinking silver paint will be the color of choice this go-round.

Wow Mike, that sucks. Everyone of those bearings are wiped. Could have been worse though.

New bearings and run it.;)

I am thankful this was not worse for sure, and glad that I made it back from Bremerton as bad as those bearings look. I'm not bummed about it really, since I haven't touched the internals since 2003 and no major parts are broken. Some machine work, bearings, and a few gaskets I don't have and I can put it back together....oil pump is on its way already.

Something else I noticed, the alternator support bracket bolt with the heim joint on the end was just about coming out of the alternator and stripping the threads....I need a longer 6 rib belt and a longer bolt with a nut on the front side. Glad that didn't break loose, that could've been unfortunate as well.

WOW! Bad news indeed.
Really glad you took a look inside and did not just get an oil pump and slap it back together.

While it is difficult to remember everybody's combo...I was not aware/remembering you had a roller cam (send specs) and 4-bolt main. Good stuff Maynard! booo gear drive, booo. IIRC< you had stock SBC-400 rods. What pistons?

IIRC, a crank turn will run $80-$100

WOW! Bad news indeed.
Really glad you took a look inside and did not just get an oil pump and slap it back together.

While it is difficult to remember everybody's combo...I was not aware/remembering you had a roller cam (send specs) and 4-bolt main. Good stuff Maynard! booo gear drive, booo. IIRC< you had stock SBC-400 rods. What pistons?

IIRC, a crank turn will run $80-$100

1st main bearing I pulled was the rear....and one of the worst. After that one, I took about 20 seconds thought and dove into it.

Yes, factory 4 bolt main out of a 1975 Chevy van, originally a 2 barrel 140 HP combo. A 010 block. Gutless for sure, but better for me that it shouldn't have ever been beat on. Heads that were on it spec. out to a '72-'73 model year, kind of interesting older stock heads were swapped on(one of those on the work bench you were looking at).

Cam specs:

Crane Cams(now defunct:sad:) Part No. 119831 Hydraulic Roller
Advertised Duration 284/292
Intake @ valve .509
Exhaust @ valve .528
Rocker arm ratio 1.5(I have 1.6 rockers)

Cam timing @ .050 Tappet
Duration 222/230
Max Lift ABDC 107
BTDC 117
Min RPM 2500
Max RPM 6000
Valve float 6500

Requires dual springs
Loads 110 lbs. closed 330 lbs. open

Yes, stock SBC 400 rods at 5.565"
Pistons are TRW forged L2490F.030 I bought the rotating assembly from PAW as well as my World II heads....but on separate orders.

Thinking about where to have the crank turned within the vicinity....not sure if Sumner Nat'l does that or if they do block decking. Will talk to them tomorrow since their machine shop is open Saturdays.

Is PAW even around anymore? I ordered all of My SB stuff from them through the mail in the mid-80's.

Yes they are. They actually sell som stuff on ebay. Want a reasonable 454 steel crank, they usually have one for sale very reasonable, 427 cranks to,,,all new.

Brian and I would fill out our order on the back of the magazine, and get a check from my Mom to mail in to them.

My how times change.

Dave Medlin is another good go-to guy
253 537 seventeen 39
Old Parkland National X Pacific from PLU at 224th???...
The shop is now his business separate from the parts house. He does work most Saturdays. IIRC, most shops send the cranks out for machining....some go to Oregon... I do believe he sends his cranks to EPW on Portland Ave...probably rhe only grinder in town. Dave has fair prices on stuff.

Took the block and crank to 410 Machine today. Opting for a new crank since the thrust surface is questionable as it would need welding and extensive machining....probably 40/40 to be satisfied and unknown total cost or whether it's even salvagable at that point even though work had been done to it. Needs another align hone since the caps shifted a little. Decking the block .015, and possible rod re-sizing(forgot to bring them today, taking them Monday). Also new cam bearings and re-honing cylinders. More work than I anticipated having done but such is life. If it blows up again, I'm done with it and going to do the big block.

Mark(owner) said he thinks the dust, etc. getting into the bottom of the engine while it was at the body shop with the oil pan off is probably what caused the problem, although I'm not so sure the distributor and oil pump didn't play a role in that as well. Either way it sucks.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1349741854.html

mike here yah go

Body Shop dust get's into everything. I'd believe it.

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1349741854.html

mike here yah go

Wow, that's a good deal for all that stuff on the first line:yes:. The only thing about a DR-4 is if they haven't put the road race sliders in it= no down shift capability on the street....will have to ask. Gonna call right now, see if I get an answer. Thanks for the link Paul.

How did the engine have the pan off at the body shop, one more time....

I broke-in the engine on frame and suspension only with bellhousing and trans hooked up....wired everything up with the other MSD box I have temporary. Took engine/trans out when I put the body back on. Body/frame with suspension went to the body shop. In order for them to locate the shifter hump weld-on piece exactly, they needed a measurement or the engine/trans there to mock it up. I preferred they did it with the actual drivetrain instead of guessing so I took engine/trans down there.

With the body on the frame and the engine, Lakewood bellhousing, and transmission(without O/D) all hooked to each other, the front corners of the oil pan hit the crossmember. No way around it without tipping the drivetrain extremely and jacking up the car 3 feet off the ground. Just not enough clearance....and they're a body shop, so do you think they're going to separate the engine/trans then put them back together?(the answer is no).

So, off came the pan(I got a phone call about it), they cut the corners off and re-welded flat pieces on allowing them to get the assembly in to locate the shifter hump area. The pan was off for at least a few days if not 5. I actually had to have them re-weld it up after the cracked weld problem when I got the engine/trans back to Bonney Lake....was not happy about it.

So, in my mind it's a no-fault incident. I could have given them measurements without taking the engine/trans down there, and no one could have forseen the oil pan clearance problem....they did what I said they could do. Of course, I had not envisioned the pan would be off for more than a few hours, with plastic covering the bottom of my engine but apparently that didn't happen. They cleaned it out as best they could they said, but not good enough(I did look at it when I got it back and it looked clean).

BTW, this is a Milodon 7 quart pan supposedly for a Chevelle....it would fit without cutting off the corners but not with the transmission hooked up to the engine on install.

ok, the pan I saw, you told me about....got it.

Yeah, the 'custom now' oil pan. That oil pan has caused more trouble than it's worth:sad:.....between the body shop incidents, how hard it is to get a mini starter in/out with the headers there, and the bad placement of the oil drain plug(had to modify the bellhousing), I would've been better off with a stock style oil pan. At least it looks good and does its job, but still not worth the headaches.

Going to go look at the Jerico DR-4 in Longview on Thursday:yes:. It does have sliders for street use, but I will need to flip over the slider in 4th as when you let off the throttle it pops into neutral automatically at the end of a run....he says not a big deal and he has an owner's manual with it, so that's good.

Supposedly 3.19 1st gear.....not real excited about that but at least it's better than a 3.42. Guy said this one is good for 1200HP with a clutch, good deal.

Going to go look at the Jerico DR-4 in Longview on Thursday:yes:. It does have sliders for street use, but I will need to flip over the slider in 4th as when you let off the throttle it pops into neutral automatically at the end of a run....he says not a big deal and he has an owner's manual with it, so that's good.

Supposedly 3.19 1st gear.....not real excited about that but at least it's better than a 3.42. Guy said this one is good for 1200HP with a clutch, good deal.

Awesome Mike:thumbsup:

Soooooo, I went shopping today....and here's a little eye candy for the manual transmission guys, complete with V-gate shifter. Brett can use these images as nightmares if he so chooses:D.


http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0811.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0812.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0813.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0817.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0814.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0816.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0818.jpg

The bellhousing that's on there is for an early Nova...he had it on a '67, and the removable cutout is for clutch adjustment purposes. Not sure if I'm going to use the slave cylinder or just get a hydraulic throwout bearing yet, leaning towards the bearing....the slave cylinder has never been used. All I gotta say is I'm impressed with the quality of this unit, and the shifter is something else. I would've never guessed I'd be able to get all this stuff for less than half of new price in the condition it's in. I'm happy:yes:

Congrats Mike!:thumbsup:

Now THAT's shifter linkage.:D

Congrats Mike!:thumbsup:

Now THAT's shifter linkage.:D

Thanks Greg. You gotta see that shifter in action though, it's just badass. Missing a gear on an upshift is nearly impossible....unless you have the forward handle depressed while shifting to 3rd or 4th which would be pretty dumb IMO. I showed Tracy and he looked like this :eek:

:D

sweet...!!!

OMG!!!! :eek: Some crazy stuff you got there.

That is AWESOME stuff Mike. Glad it worked out for yah. If you break that thing your doing something against the law

Brett, it is a little crazy...but not as bad as a Lenco. I think I'll need to get the sledge hammer out along with a few other tools when installing this stuff. I was thinking the shifter that came with it was a standard H-pattern shifter since there was no picture, so obviously there will be some tunnel mods done. This would definitely not fit a console. I think I'm going to put a plate over the hole that's already there and mount a few things there, like a future A/F gauge....that way if I ever want to put a normal transmission shifter back in, I just have to get a new piece of carpet or put a plate in the other location.

That is AWESOME stuff Mike. Glad it worked out for yah. If you break that thing your doing something against the law

Thanks again Paul, I had been looking at C/L for the week prior but hadn't checked it in a day or two....so your link was timely.

As for doing something against the law....I'm still not sure I could break it doing that, whatever it would be. I'm looking forward to trying this thing out though....should be fun:yes:. I think it'll be fine on the street, probably won't downshift as much from 3rd though approaching stoplights....then again I didn't downshift as much with the ST-10 as I thought I would, gear spread I think is why.

This transmission was also run in a blue '67 GTO for a few points races at Bremerton, Darren's friend's car(Dan Wood, running in the 10.5 class). Hoping to hear from him soon over the phone how to adjust/set the clutch up for an A-body weight car. It's only had 2 runs on it since coming back from Jerico for a freshening, and inside looks perfect. Will post a pic when I get to flipping that 4th gear dog ring/slider around.

So what are you going to do with the gear vendor unit?

So what are you going to do with the gear vendor unit?

Buy an adaptor to fit this Jerico from Gear Vendors....they do make them for these transmissions, as well as many other types of transmissions. I'm not going to go without my O/D:noway:.

My driveshaft is going to get shorter again...this transmission is 2" longer than the ST-10, and with a possible S60 it'll be even shorter. Speculation says around 20" shorter than original with the addition of these 2 things plus the O/D. It's already 15 1/4" shorter as is.

I also need to get a conversion pilot bushing from Jerico since this is a MOPAR size 18 spline input shaft but correct length for a Chevy application(obviously).

After taking the top cover off today to inspect the dog ring situation....I found out I didn't have to do it after all. I'm guessing when Darren sent the transmission in to Jerico to be freshened up, they put the dog ring for 4th gear back in the normal way. So, I used some Ultra Black RTV and put the cover back on. Here's the pic I promised of the top assembly, 3rd and 4th gear slider and dog rings are on the left hand side of the picture:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0820.jpg

Also, after looking at the possible hydraulic clutch master cylinder situation I think I'm going to stick with the manual clutch pedal stuff I already have in there that works. I checked the slave cylinder possibility, it's just too long to be feasible with this setup and hydraulic throwout bearings start around $150 and go up from there. Getting the pedal rod all set up and mounted right with a rod/clevis arrangement isn't worth it at this point....too much work for the same objective I'm already achieving.

I just checked the Ram clutch site and I have a Long style pressure plate which is standard duty adjustable for 18-2400 static pressure, so I should be good with a manual clutch setup with not too much pedal effort.

Realized I need to make a new bracket for the O/D switch somewhere on the shifter, and a bracket for the reverse light switch which will probably be mounted on the GV adapter somewhere....shouldn't be too bad. I think the tunnel mods will take the most time due to the extra 2" length pushing the O/D back further, and the shifter rods are out pretty far away from the main case.

EDIT I also cleaned out my oil pan today....lots of bearing flakes in there.

I get my engine block and crankshaft back tomorrow:hurray: .030 rods, .020 mains was machined off the crank, forgot to ask how much total deck height was taken off, I think .010. A few pairs of gaskets and a new rear main seal and it shouldn't take long to put it all back together....still waiting on the distributor shim pack though(to ship the 23rd). This time no body shop dust and no leaks.

I cleaned all the green paint off the heads in the last couple of days with a drill and a wire brush attachment, but man there was lots of carbon buildup in the combustion chambers from running very rich and the timing off.

I also found out something interesting today....while calling a transmission guy(Bill Ericson of Ericson Gears, Richmond dealer) in West Seattle to get a new speedometer driving gear(slips onto the tailshaft) and snap rings mailed to put on my ST-10 before putting the tailhousing back on for re-sale, I was talking with him about my Jerico a little. He said Jerico takes the heat treating out of the 1st gear allowing it to flex and take more shock loads on launches, that's why it's black in color. Interesting he didn't know about sintered iron clutches though, being a transmission guy.

Picked up the block/crank/pistons on rods today late afternoon. Crank is .040rods/.030mains, pretty much as far as it can go without needing a new crank. Block decked .010. The mains and rods definitely needed work he said, and there's still some witness lines in the cylinder bores after honing them as far as they will go without boring the block to .040 or .060(buying new piston$ of cour$e)....will definitely need to warm up the engine before running it down the track is his advice. No problem there, I like to warm it up before anyway(if it's not already).

I also have to sand down the sides of the pistons for burrs, high spots, etc. Crankshaft end play check will need some finesse measuring after he fixed the thrust surface....hopefully I'll have no trouble with that, otherwise I'll be taking it back so he can set it right.

So, you could say everything is on the ragged edge of machining at this point....he said everything had been through war in the short 200 miles and few hours plus of run time. I believe it. I hate body shop dust now:mad:.

On a lighter note, he sprayed the block with some medium green paint, go figure....I thought it'd be bare metal after he just tanked it. I told him it was going to be silver this time, he looked at me funny when I said that and didn't say anything. I also painted the water pump flat black today, so Brett and Kevin don't have to worry about me forgetting that this time around:D.

Round 2 on assembly starts Monday, taking tomorrow off from this stuff(forgot my camera today, will take pics in the next few days). Kyle was asking about the machine shop I had this done at, I found out today Mark(owner) has been doing machine work since 1968. He was showing me around the shop, there's a few supercharged engines going together there right now, one's a Bowtie 454 block already in shrink wrap on a stand. I told him about future Twin Turbo BBC plans, he said no problem....although at this point I'm wondering if an aftermarket block would be a better idea:confused:

Mike, please take some time and make sure ALL of the oil passages are clean. I know you took it to a competent shop and all, but just double check them. Long brushes and an air gun. Also, check and clean the oil holes in the crankshaft.
It cannot be too clean.

Thanks for the advice Brian, I actually started cleaning it today. I was going to put the crank in to do the plastigage check and crank endplay check but realized I still have to remove the old pilot bushing and put a new conversion(Ford input to Chevy crankshaft) pilot bearing in which I don't have yet. So, as far as I got was putting the main bearings in the block and caps. I will do more cleaning this week before it goes together, and you're right, it can never be too clean.:thumbsup:

take your time

I still have to order parts, then wait for 2-3 days for them to arrive....taking my time is about all I can do at this point.

Get my 1965 El Camino inspected and on the street - (383 Stroker)
Complete - Installed New - Radiator, Battery, Motor Mounts, various wiring and cables, headers, back window
Needs - finish pain in the butt emergency brake, some ignition switch issues, afford new rear tires - get it to idle properly (dies out)

I am close - real winter project will be other restore issues for this great car!

Chuck

I dont have any major upgrades this winter. The motor will stay in the car :D

I think the only thing I need to do is get the hood painted .

I think things have changed now. :D

I finally ordered some parts today....other than that, not a lot to report. Will be able to put everything together including the new clutch setup, and a longer belt for the alternator. Trying to sell some parts to offset the cost of these drivetrain upgrades....and get them into hands of people who want them, then I'll address the new O/D adapter and move onto the rear diff./shorter driveline.

I met one of the north guys' co-workers from the Everett Boeing plant tonight, David Ashby an engineer on the 787 program....he bought my Caddy seats I've been trying to sell for a couple of years. He's working on a '57 Willys wagon, said he recognized Darryl and Jim's names when I mentioned them. Anyway, I thought it was kind of cool....and I finally got rid of those seats!!!!!!

On another note, I may be starting back to work soon(possibly Monday), will know tomorrow if I got one of the positions available. It'll be boring work, lighting retrofit for energy conservation(in supermarkets no less, for a different company), but the compensation plan will make up for it. I never thought I'd say this, but I'm actually kind of excited to go back to work....been bored lately.

A bit of progress today.

1. Got the old pilot bushing out of the crankshaft with the cheap-o bolt and grease method, hydraulically forcing it out. One thing I forgot to do though was bevel grind the end of the bolt 'enough' so it didn't mushroom out and get stuck. Guess what happened, it got stuck in the pilot bushing. So, I drilled, tapped the end of the bolt at 1/4" and used the slide hammer to get it back out so I could put more grease in there. Upon the new and improved beveled end, and more grease, it came out the rest of the way. That took awhile and lesson learned but no damage, so Tracy can re-use the bushing if he wants to.

2. New conversion pilot bearing went in easy with the help of a 1 1/4" socket, good...something had to go easy.

3. Cleaned the crankshaft. Talk about dirty, I must've cleaned that thing for nearly 1 hour with WD-40, a tube brush, and probably 25 thin paper towels. It's clean now.

4. Install crankshaft, check plastigage and crankshaft end play. Plastigage shows .002-.003 on all mains, another good thing. End play was at .010, so I called the machine shop just before they closed and got specific instructions since this crankshaft had extensive work done to the thrust surface. I played with it for 5-10 minutes, got it down to .006 tapping the back main cap rearward while bolts were loose with a brass punch. Mark wanted it at .005, but I'm OK with .006....it's just a little looser for the track just like the cylinder bores(maxed out on the hone). That's about as good as it's gonna get. The crank spins nicely with everything torqued down, and still at .006 end play so I'm happy.

5. Took all the rings off the pistons cleaned the tops and sanded the sides of them. Boring stuff there:boring: and took quite awhile....I was glad when I was done.

Next up, ring filing, yay. Hopefully these rings don't need as much work as when I did the old ones....that was ridiculous.

Well, about all I got done today was cleaning the pistons and helping Tracy a bit....checked his crankshaft end play since he didn't do it before, it's around .002(mostly)-.003 which seems tight to me but he said he's not going to adjust it any. Went home to meet an uncle in from Japan back for a few days to see Grandpa. Got the call today, starting work on Monday :hurray:.... 4 ten hour day shifts to start, at least I'll have Friday off to do stuff(for a little while).

All the parts are here now(head gaskets Friday) except the distributor shims which just shipped finally. I forgot to mention I plucked out a head retainer dowel pin yesterday out of the water jacket in the block. Kind of strange since it looks new, I'm thinking they accidentally dropped one in there. I kept hearing it rolling around and I was like WTH??? There's still a little piece of something else rolling around in there but I can't see it.

http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww260/lambertracing/NEWBLOCK003.jpg

Martin, those look like they'll handle some serious horsepower!:thumbsup:

http://i725.photobucket.com/albums/ww260/lambertracing/NEWBLOCK001.jpgMartin, those look like they'll handle some serious horsepower!:thumbsup:
Brand new Dart block with 400 crank dia journals, all five caps are 4 bolt!lifter valley looks like big block with slots for oil return, it's really beefy, can be bored up to 4.185 w/3.875 stroke.

SAWWWWEEEEEEEET:hurray:

440sbc?

Staying with my existing rotating assembly, maybe.............;)
Minimum, different set of heads, the AFR 220's I have now are old school and the limiting factor on my existing Hp/Tq (675/593)

After not getting anything done on my own stuff yesterday due to helping with a certain dump truck and pup trailer, I changed my truck's oil today then decided to do some work on the engine. I got as far as measuring the #1 piston ring gaps(which were right on), then attempted install. They're the wrong rings!!!!:angry:

They're the standard thicker style rings, and I have TRW L2490.030 pistons that take the thinner top and 2nd rings. Now I have to wait until next weekend, after calling the machine shop and hopefully exchange for the correct ones Saturday. I wish I had checked that last weekend, this just pissed me off and I can't believe they gave me the wrong ones.....at least I didn't file any of them.

That sucks! Glad ya didn't start filing.

I bought a few things for 454v2 but no time to play in some time. I did spend $4.00 on a COMP cam lockplate and good bolts.... Also bought another COMP timing set.

I painted some brake drums for install, cleaned my air filter and poured a can of Seafoam in the motor, does that count as progress?

poured a can of Seafoam in the motor, does that count as progress?

Didya read the instructions? IIRC, says 1 1/2 oz per qt of oil....roughly 1/3 can into the oil..... you may be going BBC pretty soon if you added a whole can to the crankcase!

Changed the oil and tuned up the kids mini-bike today. Then we went out and ran the bag off it.

I am, however, pulling the engine out of the Chevelle tomorrow. Plan to fix that pesky rear main seal leak, and see what adjustments will be necessary to fit the new 2" headers.

Will also be a good time to relocate the brake distribution block and plumb in the line loc.

Didya read the instructions? IIRC, says 1 1/2 oz per qt of oil....roughly 1/3 can into the oil..... you may be going BBC pretty soon if you added a whole can to the crankcase!
1/3 down the carb, to clean the top end, and another third in the oil. The motor is about expired anyways, It smokes more and more. I did an oil change in early august and the oil is BLACK already. (And I haven't been buzzing the car like I used to. And this is the first time I've run the seafoam in it for a long time.)

I need to start saving for another mouse and probably a trans too. I want to run some laps next spring but I'm not turning this thing into a race car. I've not been good to this car, It's owner needs to get smarter and more motivated...

I have some file fit rings on the shelf.

... I want to run some laps next spring but I'm not turning this thing into a race car...

Haven't heard that one before. l:)

Sorry to tell you this Jim, but your fate was cast the moment you walked in the front door to TCNW. :beers:

Haven't heard that one before. l:)

Sorry to tell you this Jim, but your fate was cast the moment you walked in the front door to TCNW. :beers:
oh dude a four door??? you got the ultimate sleeper. throw some quiet mufflers on it and no one would ever know about the 496 under the hood :yes:

Check out this guy's 4 door. Ultimate sleeper.

Calculated Risk
Signature

1967 Chevelle Malibu 4 door
353" SBC, Iron Vortec's
S480, Blowthrough Carb
9.574 @ 139.47 on pump gas
8.967 @ 150.38 on race gas

http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r215/jrn182/Rick/Chevelle%20Wheels/?action=view&current=IMG_2724.jpg

I'll have to change my name if I got rat motor... I'm thinking a two-faced half-docile half-bat**** blown mousey. Kinda like that four door. LOL that thing is sweet. Thats Cash though, I need a better job/raise/second job...

How bout I tear down the 283, re-ring it, new bearings, and stick some rebuilt smog heads on it, go down to the junkyard and find myself a T3 and boost it till it booms?

I would like to find a 4 door to make into a race car/sleeper street car. That way I could cut it up and cage it and not feel bad about it.

I like 283's. I had a couple in a '67 Nova I had in High School...long before rev limiters. :D

Those things will wind to the moon.

I'll bet you could throw together an el-cheapo package and have a ton of fun. A decent little cam setup and four barrel off ebay or craigslist, a re-ring and bearing kit, $10 worth of paint and degreaser, and you'll be laughing all the way to Bremerton.

Oh right, this isn't going to be a race car. ;)

Check out this guy's 4 door. Ultimate sleeper.

Calculated Risk
Signature

1967 Chevelle Malibu 4 door
353" SBC, Iron Vortec's
S480, Blowthrough Carb
9.574 @ 139.47 on pump gas
8.967 @ 150.38 on race gas

http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r215/jrn182/Rick/Chevelle%20Wheels/?action=view&current=IMG_2724.jpg
that guy isnt f'in around :noway:


How bout I tear down the 283, re-ring it, new bearings, and stick some rebuilt smog heads on it, go down to the junkyard and find myself a T3 and boost it till it booms?

i got a complete donor 283 that you can build up while you drive the chevelle around. ill even deliver it when i get the truck running

i got a complete donor 283 that you can build up while you drive the chevelle around. ill even deliver it when i get the truck running How much man? That'd be great!

how much man? That'd be great!
free!!!!!!!!!!!

free!!!!!!!!!!!
Best price ever.:yes: Thanks man.

Looks like my winter project will be putting the engine and tranny from the truck in the wagon.:hurray:It was really my wifes idea she hates the truck.Of course I will have to put in the 4000 stall.I wonder how long the 10 bolt peg leg 3.31s will last.I have a 12 bolt with boxed control arms,it has a posi but it has 2.73s. that was in my elcamino.

Looks like my winter project will be putting the engine and tranny from the truck in the wagon.:hurray:It was really my wifes idea she hates the truck.Of course I will have to put in the 4000 stall.I wonder how long the 10 bolt peg leg 3.31s will last.I have a 12 bolt with boxed control arms,it has a posi but it has 2.73s. that was in my elcamino.

I'm thinking you'll find some 4.10 gears and a 4-series posi before spring....:cool: Maybe even more gear with the heft of that wagon....

Got the rods pressed off the pistons yesterday and started to polish the beams.

I love it when my bro's in the "Brown" truck show up at my house :yes:. I think I will meet my goal of another 100 horse n/a by the spring :D.

I love it when my bro's in the "Brown" truck show up at my house :yes:. I think I will meet my goal of another 100 horse n/a by the spring :D.

Your gona be passing up some TCNW members next season. Georgy boy might get his hat back.:D

I love it when my bro's in the "Brown" truck show up at my house :yes:. I think I will meet my goal of another 100 horse n/a by the spring :D.

sweet!

Another 100hp NA will make a huge difference next season.:thumbsup:

Your gona be passing up some TCNW members next season. Georgy boy might get his hat back.:D

;)

I know what TOG got in his delivery. Though I tried to change his path, he stuck to his SBC guns. Should work well for him. I think the 66 Dreamer and Chad had best be on the lookout for TOG come spring.


And forget all thoughts of me with the Hat again PNB and Brian. :waving: Quite a few guys here have some catching up to reach the Super Budget's current numbers. Then the and possible future numbers. Then there is the follow-on engine with at least an extra hundred ponies on the engine stand with room for upgrades. I'll never be back of the pack again.....mooohahahaha:D:eek:

And forget all thoughts of me with the Hat again PNB and Brian. :waving: Quite a few guys here have some catching up to reach the Super Budget's current numbers. Then the and possible future numbers. Then there is the follow-on engine with at least an extra hundred ponies on the engine stand with room for upgrades. I'll never be back of the pack again.....mooohahahaha:D:eek:

lol i think george discovered red bull

lol i think george discovered red bull

or just the bull...l:)

or just the bull...l:)

nah, you got that covered pretty good!:D

nah, you got that covered pretty good!:D

says the slow guy...:D

Just to let you know Greg, my goal is to be able to give you a good race :D. Not necessarily win but just a good race, motor to motor :yes:.

Just to let you know Greg, my goal is to be able to give you a good race :D. Not necessarily win but just a good race, motor to motor :yes:.

Me and TOG sat down over a few soda pops tonight....
He did mention this goal! And he's gathering parts like a squirrel gathers nuts in the fall......

100 hp from the brown truck.

I have given this some thought.

Sounds like a pro-charger to me.

Sweet. :thumbsup:

:noway:

Juice ?

No, I am really thinking the improvement will be about 90 hp from were I am at now. Heads, intake, cam, rockers. I am acquiring a whole new top end.

Oh, bro.

You have always been the quiet voice of reason amongst the rampage of the Northwest racing bunch.

Sounds like you finally got snake bit.

Excellent.

No, I am really thinking the improvement will be about 90 hp from were I am at now. Heads, intake, cam, rockers. I am acquiring a whole new top end.

spilled a lotta beans there pal.....;)

Most will have forgot be the Spring ;).

Elephant Johnny here.

Oh, bro.

You have always been the quiet voice of reason amongst the rampage of the Northwest racing bunch.

Sounds like you finally got snake bit.

Excellent.


I like to choose my weapons carefully :D.

Brilliant.

spilled a lotta beans there pal.....;)

I don't think any of us can keep a secret very long. We're just to damn excited about our new toys and have to share the news. :p

I'm thinking AFR eliminators, larger hydraulic roller and some nice roller rockers.

Hm, that combo would really like a ZEX perimeter plate system to make it whole. :D

Just to let you know Greg, my goal is to be able to give you a good race :D. Not necessarily win but just a good race, motor to motor :yes:.

I'll look forward to that Greg!
Ol' Blue is gonna like mid 12's buddy.:yes:

Then you're just a little squeeze away from the 11.50 cut off.:D

I'm thinking AFR eliminators,

I am still debating between the AFR's and some Fastburn's. The AFR's have more potential, but will require machine work for my application. The Fastburn's are application ready. Decisions,decisions :D.

I'll look forward to that Greg!

Just trying to set a obtainable goal ;) (besides this keeps George working hard :D).

UPDATE!!!!(I had to make it at least look exciting) I picked up the correct piston rings today, and my piston I left with the machinist. That's all for car stuff. Busy with family funeral/memorial prep stuff(Grandpa passed Monday) so all I was able to do was drop the stuff off in the garage and head home to feed the dog instead of working on the engine. Maybe Saturday I'll make some headway as I have everything now for the engine rebuild part.

Question:
Any issues filing non-file to fit rings?
Mark the machinist said these aren't file-to-fit moly rings. I asked him what the gap would be with them, he said around .018-.022 BUT since the hone is maxed out and the previous too-thick rings were .022 and .026 top and middle rings, I'm thinking these may be close to that.

sorry to hear about your grandpa mike

Sorry to hear about your grandfather Mike.

Regarding rings, mine were non file fit, but I had to file them to get the correct gaps. Remember, if you're going to spray it a little extra gap is way better than not enough.

sorry to hear about your grandpa mike

Sorry to hear about your grandfather Mike.

Regarding rings, mine were non file fit, but I had to file them to get the correct gaps. Remember, if you're going to spray it a little extra gap is way better than not enough.

Thanks guys, he was ready to go so it was the best for everyone.

Greg, you're right about that spray deal and I'm shooting for .022 top ring, .026 middle ring. I'm thinking the file-to-fit rings are consistently larger in circumference now that I think about it, which is why it took me so long last time to do them.

Best wishes to you and your family with your Grandpa's passing.

I am still debating between the AFR's and some Fastburn's. The AFR's have more potential, but will require machine work for my application. The Fastburn's are application ready. Decisions,decisions :D.

he just wouldn't go BBC :sad: Was even gonna make him a deal on the Super Budget 454...easy low 12s in his lighter car combined with good cruising manners...

Just trying to set a obtainable goal ;) (besides this keeps George working hard :D).

Working on my cooling issues since the small diameter crank pulley went on.
Roadtest when/if the streets dry. Test in the garage yesterday showed progress. Thurs AM the air bags go on the Elky. Hoping this leads to more constant burnouts and a bit better launch. 1.68 maybe????? Rambo says the Elky Valdez gets that Outcast-type passenger rear twist thing going.

One more winter project bit the dust today...although it was a recent one. My pickup started having idling problems 2 weeks ago, sometimes would die going to stop lights/signs and would die if I let it when warm starting up requiring some RPM watching and throttle feathering(not to mention brake/clutch pedal action too, it sucked). Bought a new throttle position sensor from George's place of business when going to get my jacket, that didn't do it. Try #2, ordered an idlespeed air valve (IAV) and picked it up today then came home and swapped old and new out.

Fired up the truck and it was idling at 2k RPM then the computer finally kicked in and settled the idle back to normal. Driving to the ATM after the swap was just like I remember it back in '97 when it was new, and runs like it should now:hurray:. Bad news is I think I need a new front left wheel bearing....that sound/vibration showed up about 2-3 weeks ago too but only on turning right at speed. I just hope it doesn't fall apart before I get time to get to it.

I sell one of those position sensors per week. Put the old one back in, keep your new one in the glove box. Not a case of if, but when, your sensor will blow. Or leave the new one in, keep the old working one as backup.

PM me details of your Grandpa's funeral

I'm just keeping the new TPS in there, I think I tossed the old one already last week. When it comes to electronics components, once I've bought it and it goes in, it doesn't come back out unless it's bad. Glad I bought both even though the IAV was what was wrong(it also had carbon buildup on it). I have 177xxx miles, so I'm always thinking what will be next to go....alternator and starter are on that short list.

Will PM you details.

The rest of the short block was put together a couple of Fridays/Saturdays ago. The new correct piston rings were .022 and .026 so I didn't file any of them....that saved some time. .002" on the piston rod plastigage readings. I also measured that my flat top pistons are .016 in the hole now if anyone was wondering after a .010 block decking.

The new oil pump, oil pan, engine mounts, timing chain set(degreed also) and cover, starter are also on. I got 1 head torn apart, cleaned and put back together during a night last week then this weekend was all family stuff so I had no time to work on the other one. Engine block ended up black....I didn't feel like painting 2 different colors on the block/heads. Tons of bearing material in everything I clean(and I'm cleaning everything), glad I'm being thorough.

Will post pics later tonight or tomorrow.

Good stuff Mike. Take your time.
Wondering if you'll pull another .003 or whatever RT you pulled on me at Bremerton in 2010.

Sounds like things are going well Mike. Thorough is probably a good thing when it comes to cleaning metal fragments out of your oil passages.:yes:

Yes, there is lots to clean....and I seem to find more at different angles when I move the parts around. I don't have the time slip anymore(shredded it) George, but yes, it was a .003 light on my very first ever pass. I thought it was pretty cool, and I'm glad I was lined up against you:thumbsup:.

I took the 2nd head apart last night and cleaned it all, put it all back together. Got both heads torqued down tonight after a final cleaning of them and the block deck surface.....also measured the quench and piston to valve. Piston to valve couldn't be read on the piece of PlayDoh I had on there(without head gasket), which was around 1/8" thick....so it looks like plenty of clearance there. Quench was around .020-.025" without the .041" head gasket. Still need to paint the heads and put pushrods/rocker arms on.

No pics tonight as I didn't have the camera with me going directly from work but here's what I've taken the past 2 weeks:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0871.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0873.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0872.jpg

Looks good, Mike.

See you at the line in Bremerton in April.

Mike, should you be looking for a thinner headgasket with your quench being that much?

post#166 you say the pistons are .016 down the hole. That distance plus your crushed gasket thickness of .041" is your quench. .016 + .041 =.056"

Looks good, Mike.

See you at the line in Bremerton in April.

DEAL!!!:beers:

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the oil pan. If you look at the bottom picture with the pan on, you can see the front sump area where the corners were cut off and welded back on for clearance of the frame crossmember.....that's what started this whole problem:sad:.

Greg, I had .021 copper headgaskets before with the copper sealer. Since the block was decked .010" and I added .020" of gasket thickness I'm only .011" farther away from the piston now than I was before....plus my measuring may have been off a little tonight as I'm a bit tired. I did the math on it last time around, so I know the real numbers are what is stated. I can do a compression check when the engine is in the car and see what I get. Last time every cylinder was either right on or within +/- 2 lbs. of 178 lbs on the compression stroke after the break-in cycle.....I don't think it's moved much unless I have some excessive blowby.

post#166 you say the pistons are .016 down the hole. That distance plus your crushed gasket thickness of .041" is your quench. .016 + .041 =.056"

Yeah, you got me there. I had been looking for a .03x something gasket but gave up....so I settled for these standard thickness ones I like. I dunno, we'll see how it runs I guess.

So, theoretically, the pistons before the tear-down were .026 in the hole, plus .021 gasket= .047" on the prior combo with the standard deck height..... .009" less quench than this time around and still not "ideal". I think I'd have to have the block decked again to get closer to that, which I was thinking about going .020 before the machine work.....point is that it's good enough for now:D

I'll be ready fer ya APR 2010 Cobalt

It might be worth a recheck when you've got some rest Mike.

I'm running .028 composite gaskets from GM Performance Parts, my pistons are .016 in the hole = .044 quench.

They are cheap through Summit... $20ea http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10105117/

you want .040 minimum and probably .050 maximum

This combo is on the ragged edge of machine work as I mentioned about the hone vs. piston size is maxed out, the crank journals as far as they will go, the 'old school' 400 rods and pistons setup, etc. etc. Built to go 'til it blows this time around....not too worried about the quench really, I just want it to run.

EDIT I just remembered I was also tired the other night I measured the piston in the hole with the straight edge and the feeler gauge. It's also possible I didn't get the piston all the way to the top....all bets are off now. I'd do this stuff on the weekend but lately I've been doing it when I have the time. Currently the Dakota's left front wheel hub/sealed bearing assembly is in need of dire repair but alas, Saturday. Let's just say I hope the wheel/tire don't fly off the truck before then....yeah, it's kinda bad:eek:.

not too worried about the quench really, I just want it to run.
:.

This just doesnt sound like the Mike I thought I knew... :sad:

I know you're smart enough but, based on your photos, I hope you installed the oil pump drive before the pump and pan, it will not go in from the top (I admit it, been there, done that).:D

Martin, I didn't like the intermediate shaft that came with the pump(coupling is metal and has a pin through the shaft and coupler), so I used the old one with the new plastic coupler that came with the pump which is sort of strange that they sent that with a shaft that wouldn't use it:confused:. The intermediate shaft that came with the pump doesn't have any type of retainer to keep it onto the pump shaft, so when the engine is upside down the intermediate shaft just falls out of the pump shaft. Yeah, I had to take the oil pan off once already because of that intermediate shaft debacle....I barely had enough Ultra Black Permatex left over to fix that problem in the same night. Lesson #1 learned.

Brett, I fixed it tonight.....just been too tired and busy with other stuff lately to care a whole lot about it. Caring more now that I'm back into it.

I took Greg and George's advice. I called around on my way home and picked up a set of the same gaskets that Greg has with the .028" compressed thickness at Good Chevrolet in Renton which was perfect as I was coming south on Ranier Ave. at the time. I measured the bore with their caliper and they're good to 4.125"(online it only says 4.00"). They sold them to me for $19+ each and tax so it was definitely worth the effort.

So, heads back off, changed gaskets, then torqued back on after a cleaning. Painting ensued....also black. Cleaned all my pushrods and rocker arms, then went to do valve lash....uh oh, problem there with #1 intake valve hitting the piston. Since I had the crank gear at the 4* advanced position, I had to take the front part of my 2 piece timing cover off, pull the gear then move it to the 0 keyway and re-install the gear and the cover. Ahhhh, much better and the rocker arms are all adjusted now and nothing hits. I did re-check the piston height in the bore, still around .015"-.016" in the hole. So, yes, I'm now around .043"-.044" quench right where I need to be. Lesson #2 learned on the multiple crank gear keyways setup.

I wish I had the time to clean and put the intake on tonight, but all the little fixes and re-dos took too much time with the normal cleaning and work being done.

Thanks for talking me into changing head gaskets Greg and George, I feel better about it now:beers:.....I KNOW I would've regretted not spending $40 for the correct gaskets.

No problem Mike. It would have ran with the wider quench, but it feels better to know it's where it's supposed to be.:thumbsup:

I also like the fact that these same type of head gaskets are used by a certain high RPM small block of known performance, and they're inexpensive as well as GM Performance Parts. It was starting to bug me today while I was at work not having the ideal head gaskets in there....knowing that all I had to do was unbolt the heads and change the gaskets without going through any other parts removal. Sometimes you gotta listen to your conscience when it tells you to stop being stupid:yes:

I ran the same gaskets with my 1.94's and they worked fine. So far with 11:1 comp and a 125 shot they have withstood 8,000+ rpm.:D

Regarding your comment about the metal coupler vs. plastic coupler for the oil pump, I use the metal one. I ordered it through GM, as it was spec'd for hi-po applications right out of the GM Performance book.

Granted, it doesn't make that positive 'click' that the plastic one does, I wasn't too worried about it. The fact that the sleeve covers the pump drive for about 3/4" seemed adequate.

I'm sure both are good choices, just thought I'd throw my reasons for the metal one into the ring.

Smart move on the head gasket though, Mike. Your otherwise detail oriented character was betrayed by your 'good enough' approach to the quench issue. If you were just a hack show like me, no one would've said anything. :D However, you've set a standard to which you are now accountable. ;)

I just looked through the Jeg's book, and that intermediate shaft sells for $13 but I still don't like the way it's designed.....just something about turning the engine upside down and it falling out didn't sit well with me. Do they actually expect someone to put their oil pump and pan on with the engine right side up??? I agree it's stronger but the design sucks IMO. There should either be a pin, clip, or other fastening means to couple the 2 shafts in a permanent manner, not just gravity and the force of the distributor shaft down on it. In this case, the stock piece is the best piece to use from my point of view unless I modified them myself which I could have done but I think the material is hardened and would've taken too long for my purposes.

I have my 'good enough' moments at work when I'm in a hurry, but you're right that this is usually not the case with my car, John. I don't mind being accountable, it keeps me responsible.

On another note, the Dakota's problem was fixed this morning in about 1 1/2 hours. Tracy had replaced Marce's(aunt) left front hub and bearing assembly on her 2001 Dakota but that wasn't the problem...ended up being the tires. So, her old part went on my old truck('97 model year) since it was the same exact part and was in perfect working order. $0 spent on it today(instead of $160 for a new hub/bearing assembly), a bit of time, and some thread locker and it was done....can't get any better than that. I'm happy:yes:.

EDIT Forgot to mention I got the intake on today after much cleaning. I'm only a few things away from dropping then engine back in the bay.... oil filter, dialing in the bellhousing and clutch adjustment while on the hoist, priming the oil checking the mechanical gauge pressure and swapping the electronic pressure sender on. I'll be putting the accessories on when it's back in there as some of the pulley system bolts go through the water pump mounting holes and the P/S pump is still hooked up with hoses in the engine bay. Not sure when I'll fire the engine back up, maybe before I put the trans back in with a wood block under the oil pan checking for leaks before everything having to do with the rest of the drivetrain is back in there.....open headers:D.

Crappy cell phone pic, but it's better than nothin'

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/enginerebuild.jpg

Maybe the small block application is different than the bb. My intermediate shaft has the coupler pinned through, and it sits in a recess when the engine is upside down. The collar keeps the shaft from going anywhere. When the engine is turned right-side-up, the shaft and collar slip further onto the oil pump drive.

I've buzzed it up north of 6K plenty the last couple years, and have enough oil pressure to keep things healthy...and create nice little oil leaks from my pan and miscellaneous other places.

Good luck getting the rest of it together, Mike.

The coupler does have a pin to the intermediate shaft, but not to the shaft on the oil pump. When the engine was upside down and I put the pump and shaft on, the shaft fell down to the hole it goes through and was obviously stopped by the coupler but it falls the entire length of the coupler plus some, disengaging it totally from the pump shaft. Again, there should be another fastener for the coupler to pump shaft in this instance....if there were, I would've used the shaft and coupler. I have no experience with BBC vs. SBC in this regard, maybe Darryl can comment.

Still, I'm way more impressed with the stock GM parts here that actually fit together tightly. I'm looking forward to seeing what the oil pressure will be here, stock spring in the high volume pump.

The coupler does have a pin to the intermediate shaft, but not to the shaft on the oil pump. When the engine was upside down and I put the pump and shaft on, the shaft fell down to the hole it goes through and was obviously stopped by the coupler but it falls the entire length of the coupler plus some, disengaging it totally from the pump shaft. Again, there should be another fastener for the coupler to pump shaft in this instance....if there were, I would've used the shaft and coupler. I have no experience with BBC vs. SBC in this regard, maybe Darryl can comment.

Still, I'm way more impressed with the stock GM parts here that actually fit together tightly. I'm looking forward to seeing what the oil pressure will be here, stock spring in the high volume pump.

That doesn't sound right to me. :confused:
Can you actually see a gap between the oil pump shaft and the coupler ? Because that would be hokey for sure.

Yeah, it was totally disengaged and just floating around with nothing to keep it there....hokey for sure. Now I wish I had taken a picture, maybe I will with Tracy's engine and my old oil pump since he doesn't have a pump or a pan on there yet.

Here's the one I used... I don't remember any issue with it falling out of the pump drive while updide down...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-7901/?image=large

ruh ro post #181

So, heads back off, changed gaskets, then torqued back on after a cleaning. Painting ensued....also black. Cleaned all my pushrods and rocker arms, then went to do valve lash....uh oh, problem there with #1 intake valve hitting the piston. Since I had the crank gear at the 4* advanced position, I had to take the front part of my 2 piece timing cover off, pull the gear then move it to the 0 keyway and re-install the gear and the cover. Ahhhh, much better and the rocker arms are all adjusted now and nothing hits. I did re-check the piston height in the bore, still around .015"-.016" in the hole. So, yes, I'm now around .043"-.044" quench right where I need to be. Lesson #2 learned on the multiple crank gear keyways setup.

Great nothing hits now....but what is the piston to valve clearance after the change?
Probably OK but not something to leave to chance IMHO

George, considering the fact that I've only changed the clearance a net of about -.003"(.010" decked block, then add .007" for more gasket thickness) I'd not sweat it as when I checked the first time I built it, there was plenty. With the gear drive, I had a 4* bushing in the cam gear to advance the timing, and this timing chain set only has crank keyways, no cam gear bushings to adjust the timing mechanically. So, thinking about it, the piston should actually be further away from the valve as it will open 4* later than when timed prior as it's now "straight up" at 0 mechanically.

I'm not taking it apart again:noway:....I don't see it as chance in this instance as there's plenty of clearance now as there was before with the gear drive and the copper .021" shim gaskets. Trying to get me to chase my tail here:confused:....I already changed to thinner head gaskets and when I checked P to V clearance with around 1/8" of PlayDoh on there, no sign of the piston coming close. Now I'm .013" thinner on a head gasket which isn't a whole lot to worry about when no piston was in sight on the prior measurement. I think you're over thinking things here....and I'll take that chance with -.003" inch net difference.

This brings me to a question I've been thinking about since yesterday....why do these style crank gears have different keyways if there's valve interference problems? It doesn't make sense to me to do it this way and I had thought about it when I installed it(after I initially had it at 0, then moved it to the "advance" keyway).

Greg, that looks exactly like the one that came with the pump I'm not using that has no latching feature and just falls off. The interesting thing about this shaft is that the listing on Summit for the oil pump says it does NOT include an intermediate shaft yet an intermediate shaft was included in the box as was the plastic coupler that is used in the OEM application....BUUUTTTT, the plastic coupler doesn't fit the intermediate shaft obviously as it already has a hardened metal one. So, how strange is that?

Just concerned after your PV clearance check the other week that you went and got contact......

I got contact because I had the crank woodruff key in the timing sprocket's "advanced" timing keyway which is 120* away from the 0 timing keyway just as the "retard" timing keyway is also 120* away from the 0 keyway. Still curious about these keyways and how they figure it's supposed to work....in the theories I come up with it doesn't come close to being timed right. For reference, this is the first time EVER I've had any piston to valve contact occur on this engine and yes it was due to the crank sprocket keyway situation. I see no reason for concern but dually noted.

Back to the oil pump shaft issue, this is the pump:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-22134/

and this is the shaft that came with it which I did not buy separately:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-22070/

Got my 40 hours in early this week(no OT right now) so I went to do some fiddling around. Bought a couple of oil filters and some antifreeze for later. Put a filter on, then filled the engine/filter up with 2 gallons of Delo400 15W-40(I also have extra capacity from the filter lines, so that adds about a quart to the whole mess). Moment of truth, what will the oil pressure be when I prime it this time with a std. pressure spring in the new oil pump????

Nearly 70 lbs. of oil pressure with the drill on high, and 50lbs. at a slow speed:hurray:....cold oil of course but great pressure nonetheless. Oil also coming out the pushrods with just a hint of assembly lube while turning the engine over by hand.

So, I then got #1 at nearly TDC with the intake valve closed after coming back up and stabbed the distributor in. Mechical oil gauge plumbing came out, electrical gauge plumbing went in, coil and bracket on. Still need to install the balancer but I haven't ordered the install tool yet(George, figure out anything you want to order yet???)

Not a whole lot of exciting fancy stuff done, but progress and results. Can't beat that.

EDIT Also no leaks so far....I'm sure some people remember how much I hate leaks.

Remember, put the distributor in without a gasket, see if it drops in all the way. If it does, than one gasket should be fine for the final install.
edit: Good going. Smooth sailing!

Nope, still haven't seen anything I can live without.

Still waiting for a call back from the seller in Bonney Lake. I will PM you w/details

Hmm, I hadn't tried dropping the distributor in without a gasket....I put the .090" shim in above the gasket right off the bat. I may do what you suggest and see how it works....can't hurt.

Gotta work on the other Dakota in the family today....transmission shifting problems, and I think it's the electronic shifting deal(no cable starting in 2001). I may or may not get to doing the bellhousing/clutch stuff today....probably tomorrow.

OK, I pulled distributor, shim and gasket out, then dropped the distributor back in to see what I got. It hit bottom with no interference, so back in it went with just the gasket.

I got the hoist out and unbolted the stand then put the engine on 2 jack stands and 2-4x4 blocks under the rear portion of the oil pan. I get the block plate and flywheel on, get my Ram Clutch studs out and well, I have a dilemma. The Centerforce flywheel I have on there has smaller holes than the studs I bought for installing the Ram clutch on the 10.5 clutch pattern. The Ram flywheel that came with the Jerico is internal balance SBC/BBC so that would need to be externally balanced to work.

One of 4 options I can do. 1. Buy an 18 spline Centerforce clutch disc to match the Jerico and pressure plate I already have. 2. Buy a drill press that would cost the same as buying a new external balance flywheel to drill out and re-tap the Centerforce flywheel holes. 3. Buy a new Ram externally balanced flywheel to match the studs I have that will fit it. 4. Have the Ram flywheel externally balanced by drilling it. Options 2, 3, and 4 will cost more than option 1 but probably about the same respectively as each other.

So, I think I'm going to buy an 18 spline Centerforce disc and save the Ram clutch setup for an internal balance BBC setup to come later. It's all there from new studs to new throwout bearing, so when I get to it, it'll be easy to swap over. I guess this way I'll also get to have a better comparison of previous transmission vs. new transmission with the same clutch in there.

EDIT The Dakota needed a new battery, that solved all the shifting and indicator light problems.

Thinking out loud here....

Looking at 2 different Dynomax Super Turbo style mufflers, both with 3" inlet/outlet and offset inlet/outlet, aluminized steel. 1 has a 16" case, the other a 20" case, separated by $10 each muffler so not a whole lot of price difference, the longer muffler the more expensive one. I currently have the 14" case Ultra Flo Dynomax mufflers on there that are coming off due to having a headache after a 1 hour drive to Bremerton and another 1 hour drive back with the same headache. They are LOUD for any extensive driving but OK for a quick trip.

I'm thinking since lots of people say an 18" case does a lot of sound dampening, plus they're turbo mufflers anyway, the 16" case may be a better choice. BUT, I also know that 3" exhaust will be louder no matter what you do.....I also need to finish the tailpipes out the side behind the wheel which will help. So, what do you guys think???

These mufflers would be perfect for a strip car, and I'd be willing to put them in the pay it forward thread(I'll probably do that) in exchange for something of equal value.

I'd recommend you go with the longest muffler you can fit under there.

I'd recommend you go with the longest muffler you can fit under there.

Well, there is an even LONGER case muffler that is 22" but I think that's a bit much. They came on 2004-2005 Durangos and are another $8 above the 20" case muffler. Of course with a welder, anything can fit under there....but trailer clearance may get lower:(. I still need to flip that ball/hitch over on my truck, or get a taller fullsize 4x4 truck(been putting that off).

Mike,
I would go with the 20" case. I hate the resonance inside the car.

I have 22" case length muffs on the camino. NO room for full tails.. :noway:

Sounds like the dubs, I mean 20s":D will probably be my choice. I must be getting older, switching to a chain in favor of a gear drive and quieter mufflers....although the transmission should make some noise:yes:. Trying a more sleeper route this go-round, well, sort of.

I searched multiple threads on here, Mike, pertaining to gear drives, as I had a big desire for that gear drive sound. Fortunately, unfortunately, every thread I read downplayed the gear drive.

I ultimately decided, if I wanted the sound, I'd have to wait to get a roots type blower. Otherwise, I'd just be a poser with the sound.

That, and a gear drive puts unnecessary wear on engine components, and sounds like a wannabe engine.

I just wasn't ready to wear that hat.

John, I didn't buy the gear drive those many years ago to make noise:noway:....I bought the "quiet" Pete Jackson version. It makes some noise but not like the normal loud version....more like someone who isn't used to it thinks something is loose in the valvetrain(George knows what I mean).

The harmonics and timing issues are what recently changed my mind. I'm not into the supercharger whine at all....I like the turbo spool sound MUCH MUCH better:yes:. A guy on my Mom's street has a 70something Camaro with a LOUD gear drive and I couldn't stand it the 1 or 2 times I've heard it.

I've never understood the term "wanna be engine"....either it's an engine or it's not an engine:confused:. Not to be confused with a motor:D, which is electric(I heard that term like 10 times today at the Dodge dealership and it drove me nuts!!!).

...I'm not into the supercharger whine at all....No problem, each to his own, which is totally cool. However, the sound of a big blower is like a big hit of an addictive drug to me. I could listen to a roots blower all day long. Ultimately there will be one on my car, regardless of whether it makes me faster or slower. I just really like them. :)

I've never understood the term "wanna be engine"....either it's an engine or it's not an engine:confused:

OK, let me clarify. A wannabe engine is one that is trying really hard to sound like something it isn't. Think fart can.

:(

I understand what you mean, and I think it's a generational thing. Tracy likes Roots blowers, which were big in the 80s and I understand the price tag vs. functionality there during that time period. To pull a page from the book of Brett, a street car doesn't need a supercharger.....your poseur statement about a car being something it's not, if you will. They're cool to look at, I agree, but gaudy for the average enthusiast when sticking out of a hood.

My "wanna be" comment was in jest....probably better in my head than in text. Being in the trade that I am, you can just imagine the amount of jargon I deal with on a day to day basis and keeping it all straight in explanation keeps things organized in speech.... i.e. a generator engine vs. an electric motor it's powering to keep a system going in a commercial building. Think melted ice cream:sad:.

When I can afford to do it, one of these cars around here is going to get huge rear tires and a giant roots blower popping through the hood. It will be my new daily driver even if I have to push down the driveway to fire it off every morning in front of the nearest a$$hole neighbors house :)
I love the 80's, (except the body color painted bumpers :sad: )even the tunes where better :thumbsup:

even the tunes where better :thumbsup:
hell yeah man!

...a street car doesn't need a supercharger...They're cool to look at, I agree, but gaudy for the average enthusiast when sticking out of a hood.

Gaudy is where I live, Mike. Let's just call it my mission statement. :D

When I can afford to do it, one of these cars around here is going to get huge rear tires and a giant roots blower popping through the hood. It will be my new daily driver even if I have to push down the driveway to fire it off every morning in front of the nearest a$ neighbors house :)
I love the 80's, (except the body color painted bumpers :sad: )even the tunes where better :thumbsup:

I like the way you roll, Mike. :thumbsup:

I love the 80's, (except the body color painted bumpers :sad: )even the tunes where better :thumbsup:

Does this mean you're gonna start sporting "big hair"?:)

Does this mean you're gonna start sporting "big hair"?:)

LOLl:)

Just had a visual

Does this mean you're gonna start sporting "big hair"?:)

I used to have really long hair back when I could grow it, the older I get the far less hair I have to worry about :sad:

And if you missed it Mark, Kevin enjoyed the 80's too :D
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/oldboxman/carpic1985.jpg

Gaudy is where I live, Mike. Let's just call it my mission statement. :D

Fair enough, I suppose my racing stripes would fit that bill as well(since lots of people don't like them, including Mike P.) but gaudy as a term I guess is up for interpretation. I get that statement a lot myself actually, since my taste is quite different than most people.

I do like keeping the COPS away though, and Tracy has a story about that in the Monza. He got stopped in Auburn by a COP just to state that he had a nice car, but he didn't want to see it in his town again.....this was around 1987 with the 144 supercharger and 3-hole blower hat sticking out of the hood. Thus, part of the reason he bought a fiberglass L-88 hood for it that the supercharger fits under.

On another note, I read awhile back someone asking about local laws with the height of a supercharger/carb/air filter and somewhat blocked vision across that path. I tried to find it on the State Patrol website but found nothing regarding rules of vision and height of engine components sticking out of a hood. Anyone know?

Does this mean you're gonna start sporting "big hair"?:)

I hope that NEVER comes back, it was dumb the first time around....

On another note, I read awhile back someone asking about local laws with the height of a supercharger/carb/air filter and somewhat blocked vision across that path. I tried to find it on the State Patrol website but found nothing regarding rules of vision and height of engine components sticking out of a hood. Anyone know?



Brian and I saw this guy running around in Bremerton last year and thought it might be George, but then noticed the car looked fast and was not stuck in the garage :D
I don't see how you could get a blower much higher than this!
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa50/468Brian/Jim%20and%20Martin/SD530487.jpg

First off, that is a 69 roadster and I have a 68 T-Top car...
'Dems some big old-school wheels, I have Rallys and Redlines
I do like the color on that Vette though...oddly familiar (looks different out in the sunlight)

I can't see George with a dew rag on his head:noway:

I can't see George with a dew rag on his head:noway:

me neither...:thumbsup:

The point was that there are plenty of blower cars on the road that stick up high above the hood. No one could confuse this guy with George.

There could still be a law that's not being enforced about it though.....

Brian and I saw this guy running around in Bremerton last year and thought it might be George

No one could confuse this guy with George.

So, now I'm confused....

The point was that there are plenty of blower cars on the road that stick up high above the hood. No one could confuse this guy with George.

George is a far better-looking chap:thumbsup: and though his Vette is not out much, it is at least that nice looking

Found it, scroll down to the View Obstruction section almost halfway down the page:

http://www.wsp.wa.gov/traveler/passequip.htm

Found it, scroll down to the View Obstruction section almost halfway down the page:

http://www.wsp.wa.gov/traveler/passequip.htm

View Obstruction
(Visors, stickers, hood scoops, mud, and all other after market items.)

No items except the hood ornament and windshield wipers, identical to those originally installed by a recognized manufacturer, shall project more than 2" above a line from the top of the steering wheel to the top of the front fenders or hood. WAC 204-10-224

Laws are made to be broken and make money for the state :D

I would be willing to bet there are not many tickets issued for this if ever. It certainly wouldn't stop me from doing it.

As a matter of point, since it reads "originally installed by a recognized manufacturer". All after market cowl and hood scoop hoods would fall under this law, I don't see that happening.

An aftermarket cowl hood would not fall under this because IT IS the hood regardless of whether or not it is the original hood, not a scoop grafted onto the hood....although a 6" cowl hood would definitely be under question.

All this is going to depend on what your doing, and what kind of mood the cop(s) are in. IMO this falls right along with window tint, stereo volume etc. You would only get nailed for this if you were being an a$$, and drawing attention to yourself. Most of the cops I know (and are related to) would only use that as a way to get you for something else like a DUI.

Well, after the clutch disc showed up today and the balancer installer showed up 2 days ago, I got a little antsy when I got home....

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0877.jpg:D

I'll be putting everything else back together on the engine tomorrow.

Way to go Mike. That black engine looks much better! :thumbsup: When is first drive?

Thanks Brett, I'm liking the black better as well. I still have to buy/exchange the O/D adapter and do the floor mods for the shifter placement, order and swap out the rear diff, new driveline, and change out mufflers/finish the exhaust out behind the tires out the side....but I may start the engine up before then as the bellhousing is sitting on wood blocks. The timing retard setup and A/F gauge also need to go in so I can put a plate over that old shifter hole and make use of the space.

George, do you want a notice when the fire-up happens?...should be fun:yes: I hear open headers in the near future....if only Janet lived nearby.

I didn't work very hard today, drove around a lot for inspection checks, so I had quite a bit of energy left this evening. I'm just glad those headers were cheap b/c they are a pain and I'm reminded of that every time on install or removal by myself(almost always).

Keep everything covered. Dont want any dirt or anything getting into the motor this time.:noway:

Valve covers and a towel over the intake were set on right after the pic was taken....

Valve covers and a towel over the intake were set on right after the pic was taken....

:thumbsup:

Im in fear of dirt or anything getting in mine too, so it will be a very very clean garage with everything covered. Might even put up some plastic like a small paint booth to put the engine in during the build.

Wet down your floor with water too if you're being that careful.

I'm not real paranoid about dirt this time around as I know where the excessive amounts came from last time and how clean I made it this time.

I forgot to mention how much I like the new balancer installer tool:yes:(it's a Moroso piece for SBC- 7/16", BBC 1/2", F**d 5/8", and ??? 3/4" threaded snouts). So, anyone in the South Sound contingent needing to borrow one, just let me know.

That looks way better Mike.
I bet she runs strong for you this time and for a long time to come.

I just used a big garbage bag on my engine, covered a fully dressed bb perfectly!

Just read this whole thread, damn good lookin 67 there cobalt!

Yes Mike, advise when you are close to firing the Cobalt off.

I will let you know, George. I'm thinking it'll probably be December sometime.

Thanks for the compliment Chevelle68Malibu....could you please put your name in your profile??? I can't remember what you said your name was in the thread you started....

It's all put back together now, including coolant filled in the block and radiator. No problems, just a lot of stuff to hook up and I switched to the GM clutch fork instead of the Lakewood one, so I had to do a little adjusting under the car as the GM one is shorter.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0878.jpg

December? That thing looks ready to fire tomorrow... :yes:

I just want to get the transmission in first since the clutch disc isn't totally on-center.

Definition: Jerico trans has Chrysler input splines(18) with a Ford size input diameter at the end of the shaft(which required that input shaft adapter bearing), and the Chrysler input shafts are really really long. So the Chrysler style clutch alignment tool doesn't really work without extensive modifying of it(which I haven't done)....so I got the clutch disc "close" to being where it needs to be. I did attempt 1 transmission install with the engine out of the car, but I need to have the clutch pedal pushed in while I try to align the transmission and I don't want the throwout bearing flying out either.

I had thought about this problem a month ago, but realized I probably wouldn't take the time to modify the alignment tool which afterwards may not have been ideal anyway. Other than that, yes, theoretically I could fire it tomorrow.

I see, Mike. I agree, you want the trans input shaft in to keep things lined up at 3,000 rpm. I also have to push the clutch in to get the trans input shaft in that last 1/4".

I'm just glad this new transmission weighs 20+ lbs. less than the ST-10. When I add the O/D unit to it, that adds around another 40 lbs to wrestle....so it's almost up to an automatic's weight as a complete unit. I could just put the adapter on without the O/D until the transmission is in but it's A LOT easier to bolt on when it's not under the car.

I had good luck with the ST-10 one time without pushing the pedal in of which there wasn't one at that time, and that was the 1st time with no body on the frame. Since then, it's been a pain without the pedal pushed in....I've noticed the alignment tool doesn't always make a difference if it goes in easy or not.

Yup, my alignment tool is a cheesy plastic piece that doesnt work that great.

Ok my name is in my profile, its Dan heh. I love your radiator wheres that from?

Dan-

It's an Alumitech w/ dual 11" Spal electric fans already installed(riveted on) with custom brackets....I opted for the BBC manual trans style(no automatic transmission cooler). Ray, Kevin and I think someone else here also has the same version with or without the transmission cooler. They're expensive, but worth it if you have a high dollar engine you want to protect(as if I didn't just rebuild my engine:sad:). Also, the company started out making Chevelle radiators and the owner is very personable and knows his stuff when it comes to cooling.

Thanks for putting your name in your profile:thumbsup: