Awesome.

You guys should check out my tranny cooler :)

Just look in the pics ive posted :)

Interesting video....I've never really seen one of those turbo V6s up close, and yours seems to be a bit "modified and arranged". I know of a Buick V6 that's going to be coming out of a Chevy Monza soon, that'd be an interesting build.

Manual transmission here....no cooler required for my purposes. If it were a road racer, then yeah, I'd want one on there.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0878.jpg

Man that looks good. You have to admit Mike that the new motor color looks mean. I am not sorry to see the green go away :noway:.

I am happy with the change in engine block color and glad I didn't go with silver.....I knew TOG would be persistent about it until it changed:yes:. The engine and accessories are also a lot cleaner externally now, after all, it was at the body shop for awhile during that whole oil pan incident and got pretty dusty. If you look closely, the upper radiator hose ends and T-Stat housing got pretty scratched up while there at the body shop, that's kind of bothering me but they still work.

I actually think once everything else is done I may do quite a bit of winter driving on nicer days...test out the heater, break in the new clutch disc, rear diff, and see if I can get the front end to finish settling. Then I can go back for the return free alignment adjustment/fine tune.

Transmission adapter is on its way....

EDIT I forgot to mention the ST-10 adapter will be exchanged/going back to Gear Vendors for a partial refund. I asked and was told the Jerico adapter has multiple shifter mount locations as well as transmission mounting styles just like the actual Jerico tailhousing for Chevy, Chrysler, Ford. Of interest is that the tech on the phone said the Jerico uses a 31 spline output shaft when Jerico's website says 32 splines for all of their transmissions...I already have a 32 spline coupler from the ST-10 but they're going to send one out and whichever one fits will be used and the other one returned.

I'll also be putting in a new rear seal(leaking a little) in the O/D unit, and swapping out speedometer gears to match the new 3.54 rear gear ratio to be going in.

I received the new Gear Vendors adapter for the Jerico yesterday. I had to drive to Seattle Transmissions today to get a GM 41 tooth speedometer gear to match the new rear gear ratio, then came back and got to work. Replacing the speedometer gear in the O/D is easy, remove 1 bolt, a fork type deal(looks like a distributor hold down) and then remove the speedometer gear housing. Remove the old gear and replace it with the new one, putting it back together how it came. You can see the speedometer housing area in the last picture of this write-up in the lower left rear of the O/D.

I opened the top inspection cover first to find out and confirm exactly what gear ratios the Jerico has and they are: 1st 3.19, 2nd 2.002, 3rd 1.334, and 4th of course is 1.00....the chart on the back of the owner's manual matched these ratios for a 29/20 Mainshaft ratio as the side of one of the gears is stamped as such. I also drained most of the gear oil to avoid any unwanted mess.

I figured I'd take some pics and do a bit of narrating to show just how these overdrive things go together. Most of it is just time consuming, and paying close attention to what goes where first. Removing the Jerico tailhousing was easy, remove 4 bolts for the shifter mount and 5 bolts for the tailhousing....then a little love tap hammer action and it was free.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0887.jpg

Here's a side by side comparison of the 2 different tailhousings. As you can see on the bottom of the GV adapter which is the bright aluminum one, the transmission mounting holes are transverse to what a normal GM trans mount uses. In the background you can see the mount they sent which has studs sticking out that go through the crossmember and is a rubber mount w/the standard metal framework.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0889.jpg

In this top view, you can see the mount and mounting holes to match the GV adapter. You can also see the mid-plate that is sent to extend the assembly to allow for the tailshaft to O/D input shaft coupler. Coincidentally, I was right about not needing the 31 spline coupler they sent this time which wouldn't fit....I used the coupler I already had with the ST-10, of which both transmissions use a 32 spline output shaft.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0892.jpg

Here's a good picture of the alignment dowels/internal shaft rails meant to also line up the tailhousing/mid-plate which came in handy.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0893.jpg

In this picture with the mid-plate installed, the right side inner two bolt holes each get a bolt before the new tailhousing goes on, and the tailhousing face plate itself is drilled and bevel machined to receive the bolt heads...sorry I didn't get a picture of that. There is a gasket supplied for both sides of this plate, and I also added some Ultra Black Permatex for sealant.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0894.jpg

Tailhousing on with 5 bolts of assorted lengths, and using the blue thread locker supplied with the adapter. I also added lockwashers to the bolts, and 2 of the bolts I had to add 2 flat washers to keep the bolts from bottoming out(which is mentioned in the directions to observe and add as necessary). Shifter also bolted back on and top plate back on after oil was put back in.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0895.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0896.jpg

Slip the coupler onto the tailshaft of the transmission, then onto the O/D install. I removed the 8 nuts and washers off the O/D unit studs, put the supplied gasket on, again adding permatex and bolted the O/D onto the adapter, aligning the splines and making sure the nuts with cross cuts in one side(hard to explain) were facing the direction towards how they tighten onto the studs. I torqued them at 6-9 ft. lbs. as directed in the instructions.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0897.jpg

So, it's not too hard, just a bit of reading the instructions familiarizing yourself with the specs, and paying attention to what you're doing, as well as looking it over before you start. As with anything involving gear oil, this can get messy if you forget to drain the oil or another similar event.
That happened to me last time, I made sure it didn't happen this time.

I must say, this was by far much easier than the ST-10 adapter install or removal due to the fact that I didn't have to deal with the reverse gear or removing the speedometer gear in the tailhousing. That required removing the reverse gear mainshaft, swapping it into the other tailhousing, sealing the pin, re-installing the tailhousing with the reverse gear and its actuator arm, removing snap rings for the speedometer gear.....generally more of a pain, lots more complicated and way more time consuming. I also didn't have to do much grinding, only once for clearancing a bolt head on the tailhousing, and that wasn't a whole lot....unlike the ST-10 where I had to hog out the bottom area for clearance of the reverse lever.

That's alot of info. If you haven't already, you may want to post that in the trans forum. Very thorough.

That is going to be one bad ass trans.:thumbsup:

That thing is long!! (make any jokes you want) :rolleyes: So you have to make a custom tunnel? How far back does it go?

Yes, that assembly is pretty long....a bit over 3' I think. I'd have to measure it but the original Jerico case and tailhousing is 24.5" long and the GV unit is 12.5" long, plus the mid-plate and coupler.

The Jerico is about 2" longer than the ST-10, so I may have to do a little bit of trimming of the floor support for the O/D but I already did most of the clearancing from before. I may also have to get the sledge hammer out to clearance a bit more of the tunnel for the shifter rods. I also have to cut a new hole for the shifter and put a plate over the old shifter hole, mounting the new 'stuff' to that plate as well. Overall, the assembly will fit just fine with a little finesse.

It's pretty heavy and awkward too....68 lb. trans, 45 lb. O/D. I had fun getting it off the bench onto the floor over to the side of the car, but no problems.

This is a remarkable technical posting! Great stuff!

GREAT sharing of info.

The transmission/overdrive combo went in Wednesday, and I had to cut the center of the floor brace out to get the O/D unit to go far enough to the right to allow the pilot shaft to go into the pilot bearing. This is sort of how it sits without the crossmember in there but I think it's a bit lower now with the crossmember in(forgot to look).

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0902.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0903.jpg

Requisite gigantic hole cut in the floor for the V-Gate shifter....I measured and cut this before I installed the transmission and the 1 piece I cut out can be welded back in later if I go back to a stock location shifter. Checked the hole with the shifter today and it's right on the money.


After getting the trans in Weds., I saw that I had to modify the crossmember so today I finally got the chance. The bolt/stud spacing on the new transmission mount is wider(Ford spacing?) So, I obviously started with a stock crossmember and added a little width to it using a little cutting, welding, and some thick scrap steel in the garage for side bolstering.

Stock(upside down in pic):

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0906.jpg

Then I cut some reliefs and pounded them flat to horizontal which will now act as the extra width needed:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0908.jpg

Then I set about getting to bare metal, cutting the side scrap pieces for the bolstering and making the new wider dimension mounting slots. I realized about halfway through the new slots that I'd have to weld up a thicker flange to add strength to the area between the old and new slots, then finish grinding them all flat and even.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0914.jpg

I also reinforced the topside factory welding as it was a bit less than my ideal. Heres' the topside with the improved strength with paint:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0918.jpg

And the bottom side all finished with paint:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0919.jpg

Installed:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0921.jpg

I also had to drill new crossmember mounting holes in the frame, exactly 1/2 way between the factory ones. The next project will be the area around the shifter linkage, as the straight shifter rods need some clearancing(BFH), also notice how the top plate of the transmission is just touching the floor(it JUST fits):

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0904.jpg

Geez....a bit too much fabrication for my shop.
Amazing how you overcome all these hurdles.
Soooooooooo, is the trans gonna hold up the dvr and passenger?

I'll have to fab up some kind of floor reinforcement connection to take place of what I cut out....may go front to rear with it instead of trying to re-connect both sides of what is left. It won't be too bad, probably just use some square tubing, angle iron or channel pieces, not a whole lot of weight added.

Well, the shifter is now in its home....after a few hours of beating, prying and "persuading" the floor pan into submission.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0922.jpg

I also reinforced the floor with the pieces I cut out, basically I just moved them back, flipped 1 piece around and cross-welded them with a little bending/hammering. This allowed the O/D all the clearance it needs. I also checked the transmission-to-floor pan and O/D-to-floor pan and there's plenty of room, none of the floor is resting on it now with the new transmission crossmember from GV.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0927.jpg

Looks good, whats your plan for a console?

Good question, I haven't figured that out yet....got a suggestion?

I was thinking about trying to make some leather boot or something but it needs to have quite a bit of room and throw length for the shifter.

more good pics...great.
Maybe get a big MOPAR shifter boot....
OK, am pretty sure one that will work is available

I say make a custom simple console out of aluminum to match your dash.

more good pics...great.
Maybe get a big MOPAR shifter boot....
OK, am pretty sure one that will work is available

Hmmm, Chrysler shifter boot....I may just check into that, but it as well as the super sized shifter boot from Hurst probably wouldn't work all that well, as you can see in this picture of where and how the hole in the floor sits:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0900.jpg

The 10 bolt officially left the car as well as the premises today to a new home soon to be under a red '65 Chevelle nearby(about 31 blocks actually), so currently there is no rear diff. for my car. I guess I'll see just how fast Strange Engineering builds and sends out a rearend for me. I've heard it takes around 3.5 weeks but hoping they have one already built sitting on the shelf with my gear ratio and just need to ship it out.

Summit sent me the rear axle order sheet in a fax this morning, but due to the size and geometry differences between the GM style rear diff. and the Dana style rear diff., I'm not making any guesses on just how the dimensions are going to be. I'm thinking I'll have to talk to a tech guy at Strange, then give the info to the guy at Summit....almost seems easier just to deal with Strange but that 10% discount is just too tempting(plus Summit is already $100 cheaper from the get-go).

Hope the process of ordering that new Strange rear goes smoothly for you.

Thanks Greg. I took one good look at the sheet they faxed me, and I knew it wasn't going to be just me filling it out by myself:noway:. I did talk with Jim or Ed(can't remember which one) 2 weeks ago and said I just want a stock width S60 for a '67 Chevelle, then he told me I need to I.D. the hub size, etc. but I never got into axle lengths and all the other pertinent info. I think I'll be learning some stuff tomorrow:yes:

Just got off the phone with a rep. at Summit, and all details for the S60 to be built are confirmed. Jim at Strange also had confirmed with the rep. at Summit about my particular build over the phone, so that was nice to hear.

Differential to be built(10-15 working days, plus shipping):

Std. width S60 for a '67 Chevelle
3.54 gears
TrueTrac differential
LPW support cover
1350 Chromemoly yoke
3" axle studs
GM 10/12 bolt brake/axle flange pattern

Brett's Summit code saved me $245 on this purchase, and I still have some more stuff to buy on a separate order not included in the truck freight order like 1/2" lug nuts, anti-roll bar, new mufflers, and a few "ignition items". Thanks again Brett.

Air bags should be on their way from Hawaii, thanks Greg for showing me the least expensive place to get them.

Also as I mentioned in Ben's thread the ST-10 transmission went to a new home last week....to go into another '67 Chevelle of all things. I didn't know that until the kid showed up. He was a little surprised when he got in the garage too:D. I'll check up on him come this spring, see what he's doing....he's been looking for a hood, and a few other parts too.

Good stuff Cobalt!
I look fwd to our next track outing

I emailed Paul(owner) of HRPartsNStuff earlier today, and tonight I got an email back about their anti-roll bar fitment on a Dana/S60. He said they had to make the bar to fit it, actually, so that's good to know. Now I just have to decide if the extra cost is worth 10 lbs. weight savings....

I bought an '80-'86 Jeep CJ-5/CJ-7 Dana 300 shifter boot, hoping it would work. With the modified boot, some under dash insulation I had left over, and a customized piece of stainless steel, I got the big holes covered and presentable. It's not perfect looking, but I didn't expect it to be with this HUGE shifter. You may also notice the LineLoc button moved to the steering wheel, and I just had to file the hole for the O/D switch square instead of round. As I mentioned earlier, the stainless steel piece will also serve as a mount for a few other things....

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0962.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0967.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0965.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0968.jpg

I also got the air bags in the rear springs the other day, still need to install the lines.

As I mentioned earlier, the stainless steel piece will also serve as a mount for a few other things....


phased plasma rifle activation
ejection seat controls
back-up hydroboost
reserve hydraulic system


looks good!

phased plasma rifle activation
ejection seat controls
back-up hydroboost
reserve hydraulic system


looks good!

Nah, just the ignition timing controls, the A/F gauge(s) and an exhaust cut-out switch(most of this has not been purchased yet....except 1 timing box from Martin this last summer). Your suggestions sound interesting, but that ejection seat in a hardtop, OUCH!!! The shifter stuff today was a bit time consuming and I wasn't even sure the boot would work even somewhat after sizing it up.

As I mentioned earlier, the stainless steel piece will also serve as a mount for a few other things....

Mechanical middle finger for those in the other lane?

Paint it black an it will almost disappear,


Looks good Mike. Your car sure has changed alot since you first got it done last year. Reminds me of someone I know.:D

Mechanical middle finger for those in the other lane?

l:) I may have to come up with something for that....

Paint it black an it will almost disappear,


Looks good Mike. Your car sure has changed alot since you first got it done last year. Reminds me of someone I know.:D

I'm guessing you mean paint the whole works black? I kind of like it standing out but it would be more stealthy....tinted windows help a lot though.

Changes made, yes, but they're the things I can't live with leaving...the other Hurst LineLoc button was the loudest thing in the car on the freeway(louder than mufflers if you can believe that). Kind of like how your shifter cover rattled, I couldn't stand it. The other stuff has been sort of planned but I waited until I got a little experience in it....then of course the forced down-time.

Santa was a little late this year.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0974.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0978.jpg

Nice stuff!!!!!
Really nice!!!!!
OK, refresh me as to what is in the diff....

I was blown away at the quality of the craftsmanship of everything on this differential...from welds, to bracket fitment, in-house made parts, EVERYTHING. Definitely the best fabbed piece that'll be on the car.

S60, std. '64-'67 A-Body width
3.54 gears
True Trac(worm gear type differential)...requires no friction modifier additive.
35 spline S/T axles, 3" screw-in studs...obviously bolt-ins
LPW cover
Chromemoly 1350 pinion yoke...didn't come with u-bolts, I need to get a set when the shorter driveline is made.

The axle tubes are chromemoly also, something I didn't know(nice surprise!!!), so I will have to devise a new plan for mounting the brake hard line to flex line hose brackets as I'm not currently equipped to weld on chromemoly.
3 quarts Lucas Oil 85W-145 came in a separate box in the crate.

I dunno if you saw the thread I posted in the Transmission/Driveline section about a good write-up I found for setting these S60s up, but they also have carrier bearing adjuster nuts that are utilized in place of shims, so you can adjust the pre-load more easily and accurately the first time around.

I also have to paint this whole assembly minus the yoke, axle ends and cover, which I knew already. A few mods I think will be required to the brake brackets since these axle flanges are a bit larger on top due to the larger diameter F%$d bearings...just a bit of clearance-grinding. So, it won't be too bad, probably have it in the car by the end of the week with all the little things to do before hand...driveline in next week sometime, and mufflers/tailpipes(finally) mixed in there somewhere.

I feel like this has been my "remodel project" since I've been planning this new rear diff. purchase for almost a year. The thing that pushed me over the edge was Brett's discount code...it's a lot easier to buy something when you know it's the lowest price you're going to see it at.

Very cool stuff Mike!:thumbsup:

Looks awesome Mike!

That definitely looks like a good part. Now you just need to upgrade the engine to use it! ;)

That definitely looks like a good part. Now you just need to upgrade the engine to use it! ;)

Somehow I knew someone was going to say that...but I do think with the current engine's capabilities and lots of learning by me, it'll reach the 11.50 limit in time.

Somehow I knew someone was going to say that...but I do think with the current engine's capabilities and lots of learning by me, it'll reach the 11.50 limit in time.

But the rear is capable of 8's! :yes:

Just messin' with you Mikey. :D

But the rear is capable of 8's! :yes:



so is the trans :cool:

Somehow I knew someone was going to say that...but I do think with the current engine's capabilities and lots of learning by me, it'll reach the 11.50 limit in time.

400 shot with a fogger would be awesome

Cobalt's down the road engine is a Turbo BBC or something like that.

Well the rest of the car is pretty radical, so how bout something like this?


http://image.carcraft.com/f/techarticles/ccrp_0912_land_speed_small_block_chevy/25613939+pheader_460x1000/ccrp_0912_02+land_speed_small_block_chevy_engine+. jpg

:yes:

Cobalt's down the road engine is a Turbo BBC or something like that.

Well the rest of the car is pretty radical, so how bout something like this?


http://image.carcraft.com/f/techarticles/ccrp_0912_land_speed_small_block_chevy/25613939+pheader_460x1000/ccrp_0912_02+land_speed_small_block_chevy_engine+. jpg

:yes:

Yeah, something like that. I really do like the Wrenchrat turbo setup they have, looks like it would fit well in a Chevelle engine compartment...plus they're somewhat local. I just wonder when they'll start on the BBC line, I think they're doing the LS series next. It'll be a few years before that endeavor, I need to see what I can get out of the small block first since it's still basically brand new...

As a non mechanic, it's beyond my skillset. But I've thought of doing a home made turbo setup.

This is a home fabbed setup for a 79 TA. Schwietzer turbo from a Cummins diesel.
http://image.highperformancepontiac.com/f/9480339+w750+st0/0309pon_turbo03_z.jpg

Block is a 462 Poncho. 6X-8 heads, 9:1 comp, Water Injection. Boost referenced fuel pump.
http://image.highperformancepontiac.com/f/9480333+w750+st0/0309pon_turbo01_z.jpg

Got the differential itself in today, and the driveline on order...a whopping 38 5/8" long one....down from the 60" original. The first revision was 44 3/4" I think.

As for the brakes fitment, let me see if I can make this make sense...

I have the reproduction '80 Caddy El Dorado style discs that have the E-brake provision. They're made to bolt to the axle tube flange from the tube side. Since the new diff. has the Ford ends, I can't do that due to the increased diameter. I have to switch them side for side and go from there.

I unbolted one of the axle retainers, put a brake bracket on, and put the retainer up against it...approx. 3/16" of axle free-play. Immediate call to Strange. Guy asks me how thick it is, etc...so I call the brake vendor about the problem per his request. The bracket is 1/2" stock milled 1/8" at the flange bolting area, he has no solutions. Guy at Strange says to have the bracket milled to a .230" thickness at the axle flange area and then they can provide me with a .140" "spacer" to go between the retainer and the bearing, taking up the slack and pre-loading the bearing correctly...all I have to do is notch it to get around the axle just like the retainer is.

After doing some quick micrometer measurements off the phone, it looks like that part should work....off I go to see who can do this for me. Ended up dropping them off to Valley Machine in downtown Puyallup right as the guy was closing up. I came home and drew a diagram to see just how different of an offset the brake caliper will be in this configuration vs. when it was on the 10 bolt and no shims installed with the kit(only way it would work at that time)....looks like I should be fine going further out towards the wheel. May be a week before I get all the parts to make it work...if it does indeed work. Crossing my fingers.

That is one big mean diff ya got there Cobalt.
Did ya scratch the purdy new paint during the install?

That is one big mean diff ya got there Cobalt.
Did ya scratch the purdy new paint during the install?

Scratched it just a little....mostly on the bottom of the tubes from rotating it on the jackstands it looks like, even with the rags on them. Other than that, nothing big really, maybe a clang here or there from the lower control arms. Install went OK, no drama and it all fit in there after a little wrestling with it.

Gotta do something about the brake line tee bracket though, no way will it fit it its current configuration...may make an extension bracket, that'd probably be the easiest/quickest. Still need to adjust the pinion angle once I get it back on the ground and level.

I hate doing/modifying exhaust rolling around on the floor:sad:, but at least it actually turned out better than my first attempt with the 14" case mufflers...these are 20" case. Really curious to see how different(quiet) the sound is with these mufflers and tailpipes all the way out the back/side now.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0985.jpg

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/boarder022/1967%20Chevelle/IMG_0982.jpg

I tell ya, the Cobalt has had more product changes than the Dreamliner!
Looking great there Mike!
Engine fire-up is when?

I have to get the brake hardware stuff figured out before I'm going anywhere, as I'd like to take a drive instead of just start it up and then wait for parts....rather wait now. Driveline p/u tomorrow.

Looking really good there, Mike.

Very nice Mike!:thumbsup: