In my neverending saga....

I've completed the passenger side (minus a final torque on a few things) and just did the entire steering linkage.

I never realized what a PITA the linkage could be. I've NEVER done ANY of this stuff before and it's a bear (for me anyway) fumbling around with all of it. Really the whole project has been this way. Taking 2 steps back for 1 step forward.

SO, here's what I got:

1. I tried to set the toe and my first attempt has netted 1". I guess I need to get that down close to 1/8" before I test drive it, eh? :rolleyes: Do I back the both sleeves off an equal amount to try to get this done?

2. I don't have any torque specs for the linkage stuff and the balljoints. Anyone have them? Any and all specs for the steering/suspension would be great as my Haynes manual only shows a couple. Go figure. :rolleyes:

3. How far can I make it without greasing anything? I don't have a gun, but I'm guessing I need to invest in one.

4. How the heck do I get the steering wheel straight? I'm like 180* off. The "Chevelle" in the middle of the steering wheel is smooth upside down. Do I have to remove the Pitman arm, the steering wheel or what? I would think the alignment shop would do this for me, but I'd like to give it a shot myself. Besides, I've had them "forget" to do it on a few vehicles in the past even when I requested it. graemlins/angry.gif Pet peeve of mine.

I'm sure I'll think of other things. Still a lot of frustration. Heck, even putting the shock back in was a real PITA with the stupid clips (it didn't help that I lost a bolt either).

As a nice top off, I've hit my head like 3 times on the front license plate. I decided to take the darn thing off, but one nut has frozen to the carriage bolt. Now the plate just flops around. graemlins/sad.gif

BAAAAAH!!!! :mad:

http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=35;t=000291

I think this link is what you are looking for. I saved it for when I get started on my rebuild in a few weeks. :D

I made a suggestion to you when you first started this project, if you had just taken the center link and tie rod assembly off as a unit and put the new ones on by using the old assembly as a guide, read that as take the measurments from the old and make the new ones the same. If you had done that you could have driven your car anywhere in town to have it aligned with no problems. There is enough greese to get you to any shop in the new parts, and the alignment process will get your steering wheel straight,I also suggest that if your shop you use forgets to check the steering wheel alignment when you have an alignment done, FIND A NEW MECHANIC, because that pi$$ poor! and I guess if your going to maintaince your car, you should invest in a Five dollar greese gun. By the way, my alignment at the Chevy dealer cost me $60.00


Rocky

I feel your pain buddy!

Rocky, I actually did go with your advice and took the linkage off as a unit. I did lay it out and measure it. The trouble lies in that my original linkage had the toe off fairly bad on the driver's side. It was driveable and while I didn't notice any worse than usual handling...fact is that it's been pretty crappy for years and I just learned to live with it. :rolleyes:

Anyway, the new tie rods had MANY more threads on them than the old ones did, so the ole thread count method didn't do much. So, by eyeballing it, I'm in the ballpark, but still not there. No big deal, I'll tweak it and go on.

Also, my fumbling is just a matter of me trying to bolt the linkage on by starting at the idler arm, then tie rod ends and finally at the Pitman arm. That's a no go (or at least I couldn't do it). I could only do it by doing idler arm, Pitman arm and then finally tie rod ends. Just inexperience I guess.

I think the last time I got an alignment was like 10 years ago at Sear's and it was free (a close friend was the tech). He just got lazy or forgot what I requested on the steering wheel issue. Still no excuse.

What really sux is that my brother does this for a living. I would have loved to get him over for a team effort on this, but he lives a few hours away and our schedules just don't allow it. If I was more confident in myself, I'd get it together and drive it down to let him align it for free and double-check all my work. But a 125 mile trip on a completely fresh front end rebuild by a first-timer....might be scary. :eek: Even with a 14mpg tune, the expense tradeoff wouldn't be worth it.

I just keep reminding myself that it's all worth it. I'm still pretty juiced as the car should handle far better than it ever has. The safety of my steering and suspension has prevented me from enjoying it for the last few years. Wish I hadn't waited so long.

Oh yeah, picked up a grease gun today.

Thanks to all the encouragement and advice so far! graemlins/beers.gif

I guess I should have been more explicit in my explanation as far measurments go! You don't measure threads, you measure center line of the ball stud to another, you don't worry about thread count at all. That way the ball joint assembly is the same as the one you took off. anyway good luck!


Rocky

I guess I should have been more explicit in my explanation as far measurments go! You don't measure threads, you measure center line of the ball stud to another, you don't worry about thread count at all. Sometimes it's hard to get all the ball studs are all centered in their sockets for an accurate measurement.

I take the tie rods off as an assembled pair and remove the zerk from the inner one to compare with the new assembly, then holding both (new and old)inners against a flat surface adjust till the center of the outer tie rod zerk fittings line up.

Thats one way of doing it,just a good ol tape measure works for me. I didn't mean trying to get the stud centered, I just measure from zerk hole to zerk hole, because they are centered on the rod end.


Rocky

Justin,
Here,s a method that will help you get to the alignment shop.You,ll need a length of string,some duct tape and level ground.
With the car sitting on level ground,lock your steering wheel in the straight ahead position.
Now looking at the left rear wheel tape one end of the string at the 3 oclock position and stetch the string past the front left wheel.Pull it taut and adjust your tie rod sleeves so the sting just touches the back of the front tire at the 3 oclock position and leaves about a 1/16th gap at the front of the tire at the 9 oclock position.
What your doing here is using the string like a long straight edge to set your toe.Do the right side the same way.You may have to repeat this as the tire tends to bind on the pavement.Sorry about the long reply but this is much easier to do than it is to explain and type.