My car is almost done. I need to install springs and shocks. I think I want to do it myself. Is this a large undertaking or manageable for someone with some mechanical inclination? I have access to a spring compressor. My car is a 65 chevelle that was once a 6 cyl and now has a 327. They never changed out the shocks or springs. They need it bad. I was going to put stock springs and gas shocks in the vehicle. Will a chiltons book offer enough advice? Thanks.

Its not very hard. A Chilton or haynes manual will show how to do it.

A Chilton's manual should get you where you want to be. A Haynes manual will as well. It's not a tough job to install springs and shocks, but for your first time it might take a little time. I've never used a spring compressor as I disconnect the inner control arm bolts from the frame. Spring never jumps or even moves when lowering the control arm.

Is the front end already apart?

Front end isn't apart.

Hey Alan,

Can you give details on how ur method is best done? I want to change my front springs soon and I remember the hassles involved with doing it from the outside. I've heard in magazines the way you do it is much easier, faster, and safer but they all had special looking jacks to lower the suspension.

Thanks in advance...

Not sure if my '70 is a different set-up than yours, if so stop reading now...

The basic process we used was to loosen the ball joint nuts to about 3 threads holding and then put a floor jack under the lower arm to maintain the spring compression when the nuts were released completely. Then, lowering the jack allowed the arm and spring to open in a controlled manner.

**NOTE** When you completely remove the castellated nut from the ball joint DO NOT HAVE YOUR FINGERS IN BETWEEN ANYTHING OR YOU WILL LOSE THEM! The amount of force the nut is holding is amazing and there will still be a decent BANG when you release the spring and the arm is held by the floor jack. It's not hard, just have a healthy respect for the forces involved!

Now some folks also run a chain thru for additional safety. Maybe we were dumb, but we didn't.

The reinstall was similar, but took a LONG time at first, because it was trial and error in trying to fit the compressor in the right spot on the spring coils where it would be compressed enough and not getting stuck against either the lower arm or the pocket where the spring goes up in to against the frame. Finally, I think we compressed about 4 coils in the middle of the spring and that allowed enough room to place the spring in and still remove the compressor when the coils were released.

Now one other option was posted (afterwards of course!) by another person here in whick they placed the compressor UNDER the recently powder-coated lower arm and then protected the arm with a piece of wood. They then compressed the spring against the lower arm, placed the spring and releases everything after the ball joint nuts were placed. Nifty trick... the compressor doesn't get stuck and the powder coat doesn't get gouged.

It's up to you (assuming your '65 has the same general setup), but it took us about 3 hrs to get the spring compressor placed and everythign bolted up correctly on the first spring. I came back the next day and did the other side in about 20 mins... Of course, 20 mins was no where near long enough to deliver the education to my son in colorful metaphors that he had gotten the previous day, but that's a whole 'nuther story!

its the same thats how my dad did it back in 67 with his 65 gto and thats how i did a month ago on my 65 elco cept i used a chain and a lock

i am about to do my front end today and put my 3 in lwr springs in. i plan on not useing a compressor. i plan on trying to un bolt the lwr control arm without removing the brake or disconnecting the ball joint. just remove the inside bolts. with a jack to support the a arm a spring... so hopefully all goes well... if this is a bad idea.... please post it... smile.gif

Here's my method. Might need to get a few beers from the fridge, it's pretty long winded smile.gif

Removing front coil springs by removing the inner lower control arm bolts

Special tools: You need two crowbars. A big and small one like These (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1577) . Always use the flat end of the crowbar.

Removing Springs

1) Loosen lugnuts.

2) Jack front-end up and place it on jackstands. If you’re removing stock springs, you’ll need the front-end pretty high so the lower control arm can swing all the way down and outward to release the spring.

3) Remove wheels

4) Remove shocks absorbers

5) Unbolt swaybar endlinks from lower control arms

NOTE: You don’t need to remove anymore suspension or brake parts to accomplish the spring removal by this method.

6) Place jack under control arm (there is an inner ledge on the control arm that you want place the jack under). This will basically lock the jack onto the lower control arm. NOTE: As the control arms do not distribute spring force evenly to each bolt, you’ll have to place the jack more towards the right (as you’re looking into the wheel well) when working on the right side spring and more towards the left when working on the left side spring.

7) Remove both lower control arm nuts. Leave the bolts in at this point.

8) Raise the lower control arm. If the lower control arm isn’t balanced on the jack you’ll notice one side of the lower control arm lifting before the other. Readjust the jack. You want the jack to raise the lower control ears as close to the same time as possible.

9) Once you have the jack in the correct spot, raise the lower control arm to take the weight off the inner bolts. Remove both inner bolts. This step might take a little time as there’s a narrow area where the inner bolt will be unstressed. Take your time.

10) Now that the inner bolts have been removed, the lower control should be held in place by the jack. Lower the jack SLOWLY. Usually, one ear of the control arm will hand in the frame bracket. Sometimes both ears will get stuck. This is where the large crowbar works its magic. Use the flat end of the crowbar between the upper part of bracket and upper control arm ear to pry the control arm out of the bracket. Sometimes you need a combination of lowering the jack and prying to get the control arm ear out of the bracket. Whatever you do, don’t lower the jack quickly.

11) When you feel that the control arms are clear of the brackets, lower the jack SLOWLY. As you lower the jack, the spring will loose its energy and at a point it’ll be unsprung. NOTE: Take note of where the jack is positioned on the lower control arm, as you want the jack in this position when you install the springs. At this point, you can get the jack out from under the lower control arm and use your hands to push the lower control arm down and outward to remove the spring. The springs should just fall out (you might have to lift it out of the lower spring pocket).

I do one side at a time.

Installing Springs

1) Start by placing the spring in the upper frame perch. At the same time bring the jack under the lower control arm (positioned in that sweet spot you found before – remember?). Raise the lower control and get the spring positioned correctly in the lower control arm (the lower spring tail should be between the two drain holes). If you have just one big drain hole, the spring tail should be in the middle of the hole.

2) At this point, you should get a flashlight and verify that the spring is correctly positioned in the upper frame perch. If not you will have to lower the jack at start this process over.

3) Now you should have the spring positioned correctly and the jack holding the lower control arm halfway to the frame brackets. Take that smaller crowbar (or that ratchet) and place it in the forward frame bracket. The purpose is to keep the lower control arm ear from slide too deep into the bracket (which will make it impossible to get it out without lowering the jack). Keep your foot rested on this crowbar.

4) Ok, raise the lower control arm with the jack. I work on getting one bolt in at a time instead of trying to line up both bolt holes (but you can’t have the two control arm ears cocked too much from level or you’ll create a bind and you’ll have a hard time getting either of the bolts in. I start with lining up the forward bolthole. Here’s my method: as you raise the control arm, use the small crowbar to control the depth of the control arm ear in the frame bracket and use the big crowbar to control how high the control arm goes in the bracket. Your right foot controls the small crowbar and your right hand controls the big crowbar, while your left hand controls the jack. It’s quite easy to get the bolthole lined up. You can also use a big screwdriver to get the final alignment of the holes. Take a final look at the spring position in the lower control arm. If everything looks good, insert the bolt. For the rear bracket you only need the big crowbar to control the height of the control arm ear in the bracket. Use of the big screwdriver helps line the holes up when you’re close.

5) At this point you should have both control arm bolts in. Be sure you install the bolts with the nuts facing each other on the inside of the brackets. Lower jack and remove from under car.

6) Torque the nuts to spec.

7) Install shock.

8) Install swaybar endlinks.

9) Repeat process for opposite side.

10) Install wheels and lower car off jackstands.

11) Torque lugnuts.

I know this was long-winded, but I’m not sure how to explain it in fewer words without confusing people. I wish I had pictures of the process. Next time I do it, I’ll have someone snap photos. The first time I did this without the crowbars, it took me 9 hours to remove and install two springs. After removing/installing seven sets of springs since, I’ve decreased the time to less than 3 hours. The process reads as difficult, but once you get working you’ll find it really isn’t. Best thing is you don’t need a spring compressor. Hardest part is lining up the boltholes, but the crowbars help greatly. I hope this explains my process clear enough. Let me know if it can be followed or have questions.

Alan

thanks.. that really helps i am going to attempt this sat i held off once i read you were going to post something on it. i was going to pay a shop to do it but i cant wait! if the 3 in is to much i will have to start all over.... and do a 2 in.. so practice i will smile.gif
again thanks for your help

well my front springs are in i used the 3 in opg springs. it only dropped the car about 1.5 inches?? they tell me it might settle and get another 1/2. is this the norm for springs? i still do not have the rake to the car i want the rear springs i think are old... so i am thinking of getting new ones and maybe that will raise the rear a bit?? anyone have idea?? thanks
the front fender ia about 1 in above the tire outside lip now

new springs will raise the rear a lot of you get factory big block springs...

Mine was raised about an inch going from worn out springs to Hotchkis 1 in drop springs

They will settle some after a month or 2 as well, or so I'm told

a perfect rake isnt as easy to get on a chevelle as many people think...seems they were made to ride too low in the back graemlins/sad.gif

...you have an in. between the tire and fender with 3in drops?! I just re-read that...am I reading it right? Like theres a 1 in. gap?

Is your car a big block? Do they offer big and small block springs?

That is crazy...right now my front springs are factory BB springs, I have a small block and they sag enough with a tire that is a lil taller than I want I have about 3/4 in gap, I was going to put Hotchkis 1 in drop springs but if they don't have BB/SB option I might just buy MOOG and bend or cut a coil...I dont want it raised, I want it dropped, hence the point of a DROP spring graemlins/angry.gif

Yes, lesser quality springs will "take set". It usually takes a couple weeks to get final ride height. It's not OPG's fault, most spring builders are using inferior materials to keep costs down and stay competeive.

yes my car is a BB, there was new BB stock springs in the front plus rebuilt the front end and the ride hieght was about 3 inches from the outside lip of the fender to the outside top of the tire. so when i changed the springs i was expecting a bigger drop. but it looks good and rides good. its sits a bit low in the back for me i like the rack look but slight (look meaner) i think i am going to buy new rears stock...
and let the front settle and see? anyone suggest a good manufacture of good springs? or should i go OPG springs again? i hate to ask all these questions but i really only want to do this once, and there is alot of knowledge here between all you guys, so thanks for the help

I have a 1967 Cheveelle Malibu, California car. All numbers seem to match. I need to put in new shocks and springs. Can anyone reccommend a good brand so my car shows well and handles well? It has been repainted, 327 engin rebuilt, trans rebuilt, inter, pretty much stock though. I would like to also get headers on, but concerend about keeping it original, any comments
Thanks in advance
New to the group.

I used MOOG springs (heavy duty) in my 72 and it looks great. It sits up a little higher in the back but not too much. It had original springs with "helpers" in it and air shocks to acheive the look. But I hate the air shock ride. So I put in monroe sensatracs and the heavy duty srings rides real nice. and easy to do

Brian, thanks for the reply. You think the monroe sensatracs might be to far from the original? They sure look like a nice shock and a good ride. Did you front and reqar shocks with monroe sensatracs?