Suspension woes [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Suspension woes


Junkyard Dawg
Mar 4th, 05, 8:53 PM
I took the Velle for a spin even though she runs like crap. But let me get down to buisness here...

The front end sits higher than the rear. If you didn't know any better you'd think no engine existed in the car even though there is a 350 in there.

The pass side front rim is toed in and has a coil stiffner installed in the coil. The driver side front does not and the rim sits straight.

Driving down the road the car seens to easily bottom out. I have to go easy over speed bumps. It also seems very bouncy.

I go to slam on the power drum brakes and I lock them up and the car seems to pull to one side.

What are the remedies to my above problems, and how much $$ are we talking to rectify?

Schurkey
Mar 4th, 05, 11:40 PM
I think there are multiple issues here, and until you fix 'em all, you aren't going to have the results you want.

FIRST: Check your tire pressures, tire condition, and tire sizes. Make sure they aren't mis-matched sizes, or already worn-out, or whatever.

Lose the coil stiffener, and look for a hidden one on the other side. "Maybe" that takes care of your front-is-too-high problem. You will also want to verify that the front is NOT too high, it's the rear that's too LOW!

The lower rear control arms should be level, not tilted up or down. You could measure from the center of the front pivot bolt to the ground, and then measure from the center of the rear pivot bolt to the ground, and compare measurements. If the front of the control arm is higher than the rear, you need shorter springs, if the front of the control arm is lower than the rear, you need taller springs. Depending on what you find, you may need new springs in front, rear, or both.

Check your shocks. Sounds like they're toast. Bad shocks will cause the springs and tires to wear out quicker, too.

Check all the steering and suspension joints for wear, and replace as needed. I specifically include the front (and rear) control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, the idler arm, the center link (drag link) and the steering gearbox preload. Idler arm problems are common as dirt, and if the bushings are originals, I ABSOLUTELY GUARANTEE that they are shot. I will NEVER install a rubber bushing if I can buy polyurethane, but there are others that disagree especially for the rear.

While the car is apart for inspection and repair, check for obvious brake problems. In particular, you're looking for the brakes NOT working on the side OPPOSITE to the way it pulls when you brake. (If it pulls left when you brake, it's likely the brakes on the right side that are the problem, for example.)

When the front end is tight, and you have the ride height fixed, and you have useable tires, get the car aligned.

If you find no obvious brake problems, test 'em again after the alignment. Loose front end parts can also cause brake pull. Fix the front end, and the brake pull may fix itself.

How much $$ depends on what is wrong, and how much you can do yourself vs. going to a shop and handing them the keys.

By the way, the previous owner of my 'Camino installed big (tall) springs in front and rear, the suspension hit the (upper) bump stops so often and so hard that it bent and cracked the upper front control arms. If you're hitting the bump stops often, be sure to check for defective control arms!

Junkyard Dawg
Mar 6th, 05, 9:05 AM
Tires are brand new so I guess we can rule that one out.

I looked and I did not see a coil stiffer on the other side. my guess because the guy wanted to make this a bbc car he put a coil stiffer in on a small block coil and then put a bbc coil on the other side. Yeah I agree it sounds dumb.

I'm beginning to think the reason for the cocked rim is because of the stiffner because if you sit on that side of the car the spring compresses and the wheel goes vertical. Try it with the other side...it doesn't quite happen.

I'll check the rear coils but I'm pretty sure it's the fronts that are making this a problem. What kind of decent coils would you recommend that won't break the bank?

I plan on swapping the front drum to disc but I know of no one that makes a conversion kit. I do believe I can reuse the brake booster out of the old set up right?

Junkyard Dawg
Mar 10th, 05, 10:57 PM
bump

sinned
Mar 10th, 05, 11:54 PM
Not what you want to hear but start from scratch and go through the whole front end. It's only your brakes/steering/suspension right? Not like it's important or anything.

Junkyard Dawg
Mar 11th, 05, 8:41 PM
Well lets say I hate driving over bumps with this thing. I need it to be a firm ride. I think shocks and new front coils will be in order and then maybe a disc brake swap.

Chris R
Mar 11th, 05, 10:12 PM
If it was me. I would go and get a set of 4 springs of your chioce. Performance or stock.

I like Hotchkiss personally, I have them in my 66SS and they sit about 3 inches lower but its not to low to hit speed bumps.

I use a set of KYB shocks. Everthing rides nice together too. Not to harsh riding.

I guess I just dont see a reason to have a coil stiffner in the first place. I would get rid of that completely.

Chris.

Junkyard Dawg
Mar 11th, 05, 10:29 PM
I think someone wanted to put in a big block so they put a bbc coil on the driver side and reused the sbc coil with a stiffner...dont ask me why they did that but they did.

Also I've been wondering if a sbc coil for an a/c powered car will support a bbc?

Junkyard Dawg
Mar 14th, 05, 12:12 PM
Oh, if installing a big block can I get away with small block coils for an air conditioned car? Will they support a big block? Or do the coils actually have to be big block coils?