flash402
Jul 27th, 03, 9:45 AM
Has anyone here put a O ring in the stub shaft
end in a power box? Mine started dripping and I may have to get another one if it's to hard to replace the O ring. graemlins/angry.gif Tks, Flash
JIML82
Jul 27th, 03, 12:06 PM
If you have a leak at the OD of the stub shaft, you will need to replace lip seal not an o-ring seal. The lip seal and an outer dust seal are a press fit into a machined housing called an adjuster plug. You will need to first remove the stamped nut that secures the adjuster plug to the gear housing. The adjuster plug will then unscrew from the gear housing.
All the shop manuals say to remove the gear from the car so that you can properly adjust the preload on the thrust bearing. With a gear that is many years old, it probably is best to readjust things to the original specs with the gear on a bench. Most Chevrolet shop manuals have a fairly complete writeup on the procedure.
However, you might get by with the following procedure. Mark the adjuster plug and the housing before disassembly and then carefully counting the exact number of turns to remove the adjuster. After installing your new seals then reinstall the adjuster to the same original position. This should give you the same preload as original. You might be able to do this with the gear still in the car.
One other tip. Check the outside diameter of your stub shaft for corrosion. If it is badly corroded where the lip seal rides, you can expect that a new seal will fail quite quickly. You may be able to "tuneup" the surface of the stub shaft with crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper. However, deep corrosive pitting will mean that you need a new gear.
flash402
Jul 27th, 03, 2:30 PM
Tks Jiml82, I think I maybe money ahead just going for a rebuild box, The one in there is a
21/2 to 3 turn box and I know it's old. Tks again.Flash