so everything is looking good for getting the pumpkin ready for pinks. On the packet they sent they said that you have to declare an e.t. "if you don't know what it runs make and educated guess" well I need an educated guess:yes: for those of you that have forgotton

427 11.4:1 comp
Some worked over 702 oval ports
xr286r on a 107lsa solid roller
installed on a 104icl
- 248* 254* @.05 .651" .660" lift
2" primary headers (i'm thinking i'll run open headers at the track)
redneck 4000 converter (they said it should flash to about 4500)
th350 (built)
3:73's and some 275-60 m&h DR's

My big problem right now is the fuel system. I'm using a stock replacement pump and 3/8" line. It makes 8-9psi at idle.

so everything is looking good for getting the pumpkin ready for pinks. On the packet they sent they said that you have to declare an e.t. "if you don't know what it runs make and educated guess" well i need an educated guess:yes: For those of you that have forgotton

427 11.4:1 comp
some worked over 702 oval ports
xr286r on a 107lsa solid roller
installed on a 104icl
- 248* 254* @.05 .651" .660" lift
2" primary headers (i'm thinking i'll run open headers at the track)
redneck 4000 converter (they said it should flash to about 4500)
th350 (built)
3:73's and some 275-60 m&h dr's

my big problem right now is the fuel system. I'm using a stock replacement pump and 3/8" line. It makes 8-9psi at idle.


12.99 @ 103

nah im just playin paul ill give u the same advice i gave david carradine: Hang in there!


it should run about this fast:

http://www.instablogsimages.com/images/2007/10/25/pumpkin_7548.jpg

nah im just playin paul ill give u the same advice i gave david carradine: Hang in there!


it should run about this fast:

http://www.instablogsimages.com/images/2007/10/25/pumpkin_7548.jpg


Thanks Mike, BTW i'd be happy with a 12.99 @103 not really i'm hoping for around 115mph wise. I know the fuel is gonna hold me back

Hard to say paul with so much new stuff. Im gona say 11.80 at pinks.

Did u figure out what ur gona do with that main cap? Was it not in the book you have or what?

Just a guess....

11.90@113mph:thumbsup:

I would say those are good time guesses.

Is there a prize for closest guess?
12.0 /112 simply as this is the first outing
later on, this thing will be FAST

Its going to be all about traction Paul. If you can hook it up and run in the 1.5-6 range your looking at mid to low 11's. That combo should run low 11's high 10's when its all sorted out.

So you dont have time to upgrade your fuel system? What fuel pump are you running?

The RPMs will come up REAL fast when you launch, you'll hit close to 7000 before you know it so don't forget to set the limiter. The first thing I learned was that the stock pulleys won't cut it and you'll lose belts. I think you'll need deep groove or underdrive pulleys. It'd be a shame to take out your radiator your first time out.

It will be a whole new car so I think George is right, first time out low 12s until you get it to hook. If you luck out and it hooks, hold on and enjoy the ride:D I think you'll end up putting the DRs on craigslist:yes:

I'm going with Dave on this belt throwing deal....5 or 6 rib serpentine type belt systems are the way to go.

I'm going with Dave on this belt throwing deal....5 or 6 rib serpentine type belt systems are the way to go.


I did the serpentine swap a year ago, I had the worst problem of throwing belts.

I think i'm gonna tell them 12.0 The motor is all together and will be in tomorrow night after work. It'll be running either late tomorrow night or early thursday

So you dont have time to upgrade your fuel system? What fuel pump are you running?


I have 10an line ready for it I dont have the pump or pickup I ran out of money and time

I have 10an line ready for it I dont have the pump or pickup I ran out of money and time

Just a stock pump is what ur gona run????

Stock pump = Lean condition = big bang theory.

Stock pump = Lean condition = big bang theory.

:yes:Truthfully I wouldn't run it with that pump.......thats REAL advise not 'Chad' advise.;)

I'm kinda stuck in a bing though guys, I dont have a pump and no one around here stocks them.

:yes:Truthfully I wouldn't run it with that pump.......thats REAL advise not 'Chad' advise.;)

Come on now, if you're going to talk crap, atleast spell adviCe right :p

And what's wrong with my adviCe? I wouldn't tell him to run with it on a stock pump. Everybody seems to think I halfass everything when in reality it's quite the opposite lol

Paul, hit up George. Isn't there a huge performance branch of Schucks down there? They should stock something that'll work for you.

PM sent to Paul
He's probably at class

Come on now, if you're going to talk crap, atleast spell adviCe right :p

And what's wrong with my adviCe? I wouldn't tell him to run with it on a stock pump. Everybody seems to think I halfass everything when in reality it's quite the opposite lol

Paul, hit up George. Isn't there a huge performance branch of Schucks down there? They should stock something that'll work for you.

No, I meant the ADVICE that I usually TELL you..DON'T EVEN GO TO THE TRACK!!!

ya got me........hadn't had my coffee when I first posted.:(

hes either not going to make it to pinks or its gonna break 1 or more things.

nothing good ever comes out of rushing. not to mention no test and tune time.:sad:

hes either not going to make it to pinks or its gonna break 1 or more things.

nothing good ever comes out of rushing. not to mention no test and tune time.:sad:

yeah, if you can't put a pump on the car............DON'T RUN IT!!!!!:mad:
sounds like too nice of an engine to blow up because of being rushed.:yes:

Just get a summit credit card! :D

Call Jim Greens or ??? If there is one north of Seattle I'd be willing to pick it up and bring it to the track Friday. You could swap pumps in the pits.

Call Jim Greens or ??? If there is one north of Seattle I'd be willing to pick it up and bring it to the track Friday. You could swap pumps in the pits.

Not a bad idea. You could easily drive on the street and break in the engine with a stock pump.

Greg, how did you become a "gold founding member" ? :confused:

[QUOTE Greg, how did you become a "gold founding member" ? :confused:[/QUOTE]

Shhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!;)

Actually I just paid for my premium lifetime membership...

somebody important must have figured I'm one of the founding Team Chevelle Buick owners...:confused:





or, the simply made a mistake.:D

Did you have to give a bj? ;) How much is lifetime membership?

Maybe I'll do the same and they'll let me be a moderator.

No, I meant the ADVICE that I usually TELL you..DON'T EVEN GO TO THE TRACK!!!

ya got me........hadn't had my coffee when I first posted.:(

Both spellings are correct,
Advice Counsel about a course of action : guidance.
Advise 1) offer adviCe to. 2) To suggest or recommend. 3) To inform or notify.
This is per Websters. Gonna stir the pot, get George's big wooden spoon.

Both spellings are correct,
Advice Counsel about a course of action : guidance.
Advise 1) offer adviCe to. 2) To suggest or recommend. 3) To inform or notify.
This is per Websters. Gonna stir the pot, get George's big wooden spoon.

Both spellings are correct, but the usage was wrong :p

Both spellings are correct, but the usage was wrong :p

doesn't matter............your gettin' spanked on Friday no matter HOW its spelled!!!!:yes:

Im bringing my Carter 120GPH pump on Friday for Paul. I took it off the 427 in favor for the Carter 172.

Maybe I'll do the same and they'll let me be a moderator.

:sad:
All threads without NITROUS will be erased!

doesn't matter............your gettin' spanked on Friday no matter HOW its spelled!!!!:yes:

I'm not racing on Friday, so I guess if that's the way you want to see it, whatever :p TW's still up on all fours waiting for parts. I hope George does get into the 12's Friday. The Elky definitely has the potential :yes: Just needs to be fine tuned/adjusted/driven to it.

Just know that next time TW hits the track, the Elky will be behind her once again :D

How much is lifetime membership?

If you are already a member it's $30 for a lifetime membership, payable through PayPal.:thumbsup:

:sad:
All threads without NITROUS will be erased!

Just put the word NITROUS in your signature and that should take care of it:yes:

If you are already a member it's $30 for a lifetime membership, payable through PayPal.:thumbsup:

Thats a good price!

just to let you guys know, i believe i was the closest as guessing his time. brian just told me paul went 13.1 @ 100 mph.

what do i win?

just to let you guys know, i believe i was the closest as guessing his time. brian just told me paul went 13.1 @ 100 mph.

what do i win?


It went 13.1 but its also seized up now. :sad:

It went 13.1 but its also seized up now. :sad:


That's not good news at all :sad::(

That's not good news at all :sad::(


I dont think its a good idea to race an iron headed BB with 12.1 compression on 92 pump gas with 38* of timing:noway:

I dont think its a good idea to race an iron headed BB with 12.1 compression on 92 pump gas with 38* of timing:noway:

groan........
I sure hope Paul can salvage most of the parts....

Yea, I hope its not too bad. :( From what he said is that in neutral he blipped the gas and at about 4k it went squeek and stopped. Now it wont turn over. Hes gotta be discouraged but I am really curious to see the outcome.

Yea, I hope its not too bad. :( From what he said is that in neutral he blipped the gas and at about 4k it went squeek and stopped. Now it wont turn over. Hes gotta be discouraged but I am really curious to see the outcome.

I'm really stumped here guys, i'm gonna start ripping it out tomorrow and see what the problem is.

I got $5 on a couple seized rod bearings!

I hope most of it is ok and it turns out to be the oil pump/dist bind you are hoping for.

I got $5 on a couple seized rod bearings!

I hope most of it is ok and it turns out to be the oil pump/dist bind you are hoping for.


I'm ok with seized rod bearings... I mean it sucks but better than....

Turn the crank= $100
Bearings= $100
would I need to recond. the rods?

Good chance it's the mains with the detonation I think you incurred. It'll beat the mains out not running good enough fuel with the compression you're running. Just get her apart and see whats up. At least it didn't granade,,,,so it's completely fixable and should be with minimal cost.

Let us know what you find.

I must say it did sound really good and you did an amazing job getting it together so quickly. Looking back I think it may have been better to have a seperate TNT opertunity to run it instead of out of the box at pinks where you had to run the piss out of it and hope it survived. A regular TNT we would have all been together at Bremerton and been able to help a bit before something bad may have happened.

Again, good job,now get her fixed.

well in from the garage

The motor isn't totally seized, it moves about 20 degree's just enough for me NOT to get the 3rd torque converter bolt out:angry:

I'm in no hurry, i've learned my lesson on that

man, that sucks!

well in from the garage

The motor isn't totally seized, it moves about 20 degree's just enough for me NOT to get the 3rd torque converter bolt out:angry:

I'm in no hurry, i've learned my lesson on that


Sorry if this is a dumb question... but can you get to the flexplate/crankshaft bolts with the converter on?

If you could you could leave the flexplate on the converter...

Probably not huh?

Trying to think outside the box.

Sorry if this is a dumb question... but can you get to the flexplate/crankshaft bolts with the converter on?

If you could you could leave the flexplate on the converter...

Probably not huh?

Trying to think outside the box.

no i'm gonna have to pull the motor and tranny together (i usually pull the trans then the motor) and then pull the tranny off with the converter on

You could also try a HUGE chain wrench around the torque converter or flexplate...

You could also try a HUGE chain wrench around the torque converter or flexpalte...

I tried a breaker bar on my harmonic balancer bolt nothin

I tried a breaker bar on my harmonic balancer bolt nothin

That's kind of asking for trouble with a somewhat siezed engine....luckily you haven't snapped the balancer bolt doing that. I would try the chain wrench idea if I had one big enough or two to make into one big one and an extension pipe for leverage. More time and $$ running to the parts store though doing that...you're probably right, just pull them both at the same time.

Oh man, Paul. I'm really bummed out for you.

It was cool to see you at Pinks, and fun to hand you Kevin's fuel pump on our way to tech.

It's a real bad deal that the old girl broke. Hopefully the cost is minimal and the next version will be even more bullet-proof.

Oh man, Paul. I'm really bummed out for you.

It was cool to see you at Pinks, and fun to hand you Kevin's fuel pump on our way to tech.

It's a real bad deal that the old girl broke. Hopefully the cost is minimal and the next version will be even more bullet-proof.

speaking of that i forgot to pay kevin,,,, woops.

Depending on what the bottom end looks like i'm thinking some upgrades are in store such as oil pan, more cam, more fuel, BETTER FUEL!!!!!!! (E85) maybe more converter, i'm really not impressed with this redneck 4k.

speaking of that i forgot to pay kevin,,,, woops.

Depending on what the bottom end looks like i'm thinking some upgrades are in store such as oil pan, more cam, more fuel, BETTER FUEL!!!!!!! (E85) maybe more converter, i'm really not impressed with this redneck 4k.


I'd give the converter another shot

I'd give the converter another shot

x2 You really haven't had a chance to test it out yet. Wouldn't go dogging it until you get her back together and get some real test runs in with it :yes:

x2 You really haven't had a chance to test it out yet. Wouldn't go dogging it until you get her back together and get some real test runs in with it :yes:

even on the street when I first got it running I really thought it was gonna be more. I could daily driver that converter:yes:

even on the street when I first got it running I really thought it was gonna be more. I could daily driver that converter:yes:

I would wait until it's running and tuned in right. One can't judge how the converter is working if it doesn't have the power it's supposed to.

If the engine will only turn so far, it sounds like something it broke somewhere and making contact. It had good oil pressure, right???

On another note, did you have the timing locked out on the distributor. With that combo it would need to be or it wouldn't run very good power wise, let alone the inadequate fuel. When I did my first roller motor it sounded good but didn't have the power I expected. The distributor was at 18 and 38 total. I got pissed and cranked the distributor and it ran like a rabid dog.

I then locked it out and ran it at 38 and all was good. I had no idea it needed the timing locked like that. I thought it was just like any other performance street motor. I wish someone had told me because I spent several days trying to figure out why it was a pig. Live and learn but that was 22 years ago.

I would wait until it's running and tuned in right. One can't judge how the converter is working if it doesn't have the power it's supposed to.

If the engine will only turn so far, it sounds like something it broke somewhere and making contact. It had good oil pressure, right???

On another note, did you have the timing locked out on the distributor. With that combo it would need to be or it wouldn't run very good power wise, let alone the inadequate fuel. When I did my first roller motor it sounded good but didn't have the power I expected. The distributor was at 18 and 38 total. I got pissed and cranked the distributor and it ran like a rabid dog.

I then locked it out and ran it at 38 and all was good. I had no idea it needed the timing locked like that. I thought it was just like any other performance street motor. I wish someone had told me because I spent several days trying to figure out why it was a pig. Live and learn but that was 22 years ago.

the motor had 10psi idling at 900 and as soon as you'd rev it it would pop up to 35psi. My timing was not locked out i was running 20 initial and 18 in the distributor.

I've been researching cams and have found that my xr286 is actually very well suited for this combo, it provides the best torque/hp split.

Hmmm.. I was just thinking of going with the 9.5" Redneck 4000 with the anti-balloon plate instead of my "not for nitrous" Jegs converter.

Kevin has the Redneck 3500, John has the 4500... I figured my cam would like the 4000 and after hearing a horror story of a ballooned converter shoving the crank forward and taking out a motor... I was thinking my cheap converter wouldn't be all that cheap if it toasted my motor.

the motor had 10psi idling at 900 and as soon as you'd rev it it would pop up to 35psi.
.

Thats pretty low pressure...

What oil pump and oil? Did you plastigage?

My 468 idles(700rpm) hot at 30psi, jumps to 60 at revs. Cold is 60psi at idle, 80 at 2k.

The 327 with a stock low volume, low pressure summit oil pump idles at 30psi hot, 50 with revs.

Both are running chevron delo.

My 468 idles(700rpm) hot at 30psi, jumps to 60 at revs. Cold is 60psi at idle, 80 at 2k.

Exactly the same values for my engine.

Paul,

10 psi at 900 is pretty darn low OP.
My current 454 idles at 16 PSI, in gear, oil hot. Goes instantly to 45, even higher when up near the awesome 5200 shift point.
I have the stock Mellings pump, rod and crank clearances are toward the larger side of the acceptable scale.


Special Greg,

YUP, probably a good idea for you to move on up to better quality stuff.



Doc,

YUP, too many of the little secrets we had to learn by the school of hard knocks are all over the internet......

Oil pressure seems to low. Was it like that from the beginning? What weight oil were you using. Was 35 lbs max?

I do believe that cam is well suited for what you are doing but again, it needs more timing. If anything, I'd be well into the mid to high 20's for initial, for starting purposes, and want all the advance in right away.

how do you lock out the timing?

how do you lock out the timing?

MSD's have a stud one can lock out with. HEI's I ran in circle track I just removed the weights and put a little tack weld on to eliminate the movement.

MSD's have a stud one can lock out with. HEI's I ran in circle track I just removed the weights and put a little tack weld on to eliminate the movement.

then time for a 'start retard' plug-in

then time for a 'start retard' plug-in

I have two different MSD start retards available to whomever needs them, both were installed for about two races then removed my engine preferred no retard for start up, try them out if you like it, negotiate.

MSD #8982, #8984

I have two different MSD start retards available to whomever needs them, both were installed for about two races then removed my engine preferred no retard for start up, try them out if you like it, negotiate.

MSD #8982, #8984

I know Tracy wants one of those ignition/start retards, do you have a dial with them?....for his application it's for the timing retard with forced induction, not so much for start retard due to low compression. I will let him know, could you bring one with you to Bremerton this weekend? Price?

Thats pretty low pressure...

What oil pump and oil? Did you plastigage?

My 468 idles(700rpm) hot at 30psi, jumps to 60 at revs. Cold is 60psi at idle, 80 at 2k.

The 327 with a stock low volume, low pressure summit oil pump idles at 30psi hot, 50 with revs.

Both are running chevron delo.

the rear main was on the larger side of .003" probably closer .004" and doesn't bolting the oil pump on make the clearance looser? This is Brians old oil pump and pan.



Oil pressure seems to low. Was it like that from the beginning? What weight oil were you using. Was 35 lbs max?

it was idling 10psi at idle in gear, going down the track it would spike to 50psi. I used valvoline 5w-30.

Mike, I snapped this info of the #8982 which is what would work for Tracy, will be in the trailer for Sat.





Get complete control of your ignition's timing.

These start/retard timing controls are the direct results of MSD being at the races and listening to what racers want. With the large number of engines running locked-out timing, racers wanted a simple way to retard the timing during cranking, plus have a single stage of retard available for high rpm or nitrous.
The start/retard controls let you choose either 10 or 25 degrees of retard during cranking only. The timing will retard only while cranking, and returns to the set mechanical timing once the engine starts and you release the key, or once the engine reaches 1,300 rpm. Along with the start retard, these units also have a single stage of retard. This retard can be activated in times of nitrous to prevent detonation, or at high rpm to achieve a little more top end. The amount of retard is adjustable with plug-in modules, and is activated by a single wire that can be connected directly to a nitrous solenoid, or a microswitch on the shifter. The start/retard controls are easy to install and program, and are supplied with 2, 3, and 4 degree modules. They must be used with an MSD 6, SCI, 7, 8, or 10 ignition control.

the rear main was on the larger side of .003" probably closer .004" and doesn't bolting the oil pump on make the clearance looser? This is Brians old oil pump and pan.


Paul,

427 mains should be #1-4 .0013---.0025" #5 .0015-.0031

I had 30 hot with that pump at idle. Would go right to 60 with any throttle.

Cold was close to 80psi.

Mike, I snapped this info of the #8982 which is what would work for Tracy, will be in the trailer for Sat.

After he did some research today, he's looking at the BTM or Boost Timing Controller since he says he needs a progressive timing control that triggers at different RPM with varying boost levels, but I'll take it....it's good for single stage nitrous applications so that works for me.:thumbsup: I still need a price so I can bring the cash with me....

I had 30 hot with that pump at idle. Would go right to 60 with any throttle.

Cold was close to 80psi.

That's what I got, but more like 70 psi when cruising.

that works for me.:thumbsup: I still need a price so I can bring the cash with me....
PM'd yer. Cause we don't need to get 'moderated'

the rear main was on the larger side of .003" probably closer .004" and doesn't bolting the oil pump on make the clearance looser? This is Brians old oil pump and pan.


Paul,

427 mains should be #1-4 .0013---.0025" #5 .0015-.0031

1-4 where all between .002 and .003" #5 was the loosest being close .004"

1-4 where all between .002 and .003" #5 was the loosest being close .004"

OK, this could account for the modest oil pressure.
Who turned your crank fer ya?
I think you should have been fine....
wondering what you will find inside. Would like to measure the journals/throws and the bearing shells.

OK, this could account for the modest oil pressure.
Who turned your crank fer ya?
I think you should have been fine....
wondering what you will find inside. Would like to measure the journals/throws and the bearing shells.

crank is standard/standard

OK, this could account for the modest oil pressure.
Who turned your crank fer ya?
I think you should have been fine....
wondering what you will find inside. Would like to measure the journals/throws and the bearing shells.

Even if it was just a tad loose, I don't think it would cause what happened. I would venture to say something was either missed during assembly or some part gave out. That low of oil pressure means something was really wrong. Just the rear main being that loose wouldn't or shouldn't drop his oil that much.

Am I wrong in this assumption?

5w-30 is a bit light of oil compared to what alot of us are running. Still 10 psi seems low.

5w-30 is a bit light of oil compared to what alot of us are running. Still 10 psi seems low.

well the combo's gonna get a little re-thinking.... depending on what broken, but I don't really care for this pan, I had to dent it for my windage tray studs to fit:sad:

OK, STD,STD.
Was this a new crank?
Perhaps your measuring was not really accurate.

5w-30 is a bit light of oil compared to what alot of us are running. Still 10 psi seems low.


It seems low in numbers on the bottle, but in reality it's not really "thinner" It is actually closer to operating temperature viscosity when cold, than 10w-30.

OK, STD,STD.
Was this a new crank?
Perhaps your measuring was not really accurate.

nope, crank was as doc says "so nice" he didn't have it turned. Hopefully I'll have it out tomorrow or friday night

I don't know what to think about Chevy engine oil pressures anymore....mine's at around 15 hot idle, startup is around 25-30 cold and stays around there when cruising. When I broke the engine in, it was at 55-60, maybe go up to 70 upon revving. I have a rear pan seal that the right side got squished out and is leaking a little, so I'm not too happy about that but it shouldn't affect oil pressure. I had no problems on my 7 runs at the track, and when I adjusted the valves twice since, there was plenty of oil at the top of the engine. All my bearings were at .002

nope, crank was as doc says "so nice" he didn't have it turned. Hopefully I'll have it out tomorrow or friday night

It was a sweet Std-std nitrated crank.

5w-30 is a bit light of oil compared to what alot of us are running. Still 10 psi seems low.

Not if you ask Kevin:D

Not if you ask Kevin:D

Please explain.

Please explain.

Kevin said the he has 10psi at idle hot

When it comes to the differences in oil, read this. It really puts it in perspective.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052

Oh, well that makes me feel better:yes:.

Hot 10w30/5w30 will be low but 30 when the RPM's are up is to low, period. Almost sounds like a stock pump.

Hot 10w30/5w30 will be low but 30 when the RPM's are up is to low, period. Almost sounds like a stock pump.

going down the track i could see 50psi, but idling through the pits was around 10-15 and when the rpms where taken up it would climb to 30-40psi

That's not all to bad considering the weight of oil and open clearances. I'd have used 20W50 synthetic blend.

That's not all to bad considering the weight of oil and open clearances. I'd have used 20W50 synthetic blend.

again I was in a rush. The new "427v2";) will be well thought out , goal for this motor is for the start of next season

again I was in a rush. The new "427v2";) will be well thought out , goal for this motor is for the start of next season

Oh dear god, you live up the the nickname.:sad:









:p

Oh dear god, you live up the the nickname.:sad:

hahaha, I have plans for a remodel in between too:p

you two SUCK!:D











:yes:

Just wondering, is this '65 El Camino going to stay a drag-only car? That 12:1 definitely puts a damper on a street car....

Just wondering, is this '65 El Camino going to stay a drag-only car? That 12:1 definitely puts a damper on a street car....


[/URL]http://www.raceone85.com/ (http://www.raceone85.com/:yes::hurray::thumbsup::beers:)

I'm one of those people that has a blast racing and beating the crap out of my car and i LOVE working on it, but I really don't drive it [U]that much. The 396 had maybe 200 street miles and it was in for a year and a half. That's a lot of the reason I bought my truck is that its just too easy to load it on the trailer

Your web address link doesn't work for me.

I understand not putting so many miles on, but it seems too nice to turn into a drag-only car. A truly streetable drag car(below 11.50) is the biggest accomplishment IMO....not necessarily a big tire car either.

I understand not putting so many miles on, but it seems too nice to turn into a drag-only car. A truly streetable drag car(below 11.50) is the biggest accomplishment IMO....not necessarily a big tire car either.

That's what EVERYONE says. I've tried building another car and a lot of it for me is then one car is sitting there noT getting worked on and thAT bugs me. I had a 67 chevelle wagon that I was going to do then lost interest and sold it. Then I had that el camino and same thing, I just keep going back to MY el camino.

Not if you ask Kevin:D

When it comes to the differences in oil, read this. It really puts it in perspective.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052

I read this artical aleast 4 times and that is why Im running 0-20 mobil 1 syn, and have 12psi at idle and have over 10psi per 1000 rpm:yes:

The pressure is less but the volume is increased. Really helps with start up wear.

I ALSO ADDED CAMSHIELD TO THE OIL TO BRING ZDDP LEVELS UP TO SAFE FLAT TAPPET PROTECTION.

thats alot of info to take in kevin

An accumulator is good insurance too, no dry start ups and no top of track starvation when slowing down. FYI, I run Kendall 10-50W.

An accumulator is good insurance too, no dry start ups and no top of track starvation when slowing down. FYI, I run Kendall 10-50W.



Mike P was explaining the accumulator to me. Seems like good insurance.

well guys I dont have pics but I can tell yah that the timing chain cam bolts came out and that caused all the exhaust valves to hit

Ouch!!!:(

Thx for the call Paul

Talked to Paul, in a nut shell the hex adjust bolts came loose before he even got to the track wich explains why it ran better before he showed up and why he was having trouble timing it. He said the timing kept moving after a run. Looks like the cam timing was moving all over. UGH!!!

At least it wasn't grenaded. 8 exhaust valves, a regular true roller timing set, and a gasket set and he may be back in business. Hopefully the front of the cam isn't wiped out.

Very fixable for a few hundred bucks and a big learning lesson.

Do rollers use lock plates? Wonder how the pistons look. Sorry to hear that Paul. :(

PS: You should talk to PNB about you old oil pan, hes looking for one.

Sorry bout that Paul.

But, I gotta ask, if it bent the exhaust valves, would the piston's be ok?

Do rollers use lock plates? Wonder how the pistons look. Sorry to hear that Paul. :(

PS: You should talk to PNB about you old oil pan, hes looking for one.

I know you can run a different cam and run a lock plate like the gen 6's do.

Sorry bout that Paul.

But, I gotta ask, if it bent the exhaust valves, would the piston's be ok?

Pistons look to be okay. There a little nicked up around where the valves hit but after a little bit of clean up they should be fine

Glad it doesn't look too bad Paul. I was scared to death to run mine down the track the first time. Hope you get many passes out of it when it goes back together:thumbsup:

Do rollers use lock plates? Wonder how the pistons look. Sorry to hear that Paul. :(

PS: You should talk to PNB about you old oil pan, hes looking for one.

Yes rollers use lock plates.

Any pics yet?

maybe tomorrow, The balancer is on there super tight and my P.O.S. puller doesn't want to pull it off

I like to put lock tight on the cam bolts along with the lock plate.

The Super Budget 454 even has a cam bolt lockplate

The Super Budget 454 even has a cam bolt lockplate

WTF! Can't consider that low buck any more George. That had to of cost at least $5 new.

WTF! Can't consider that low buck any more George. That had to of cost at least $5 new.

Not if he made out of a dog food can:D

WTF! Can't consider that low buck any more George. That had to of cost at least $5 new.

He never said he bought it new....remember its budget.:clonk:

He searched and traded around to find a used one. They have 2 tabs. :clonk: I reused mine on the big block. :D

Nope, bought it new.....was not yet working at the Auto Parts store but got 10% off for being a steady customer....
Other new parts were the cam and lifters, timing set, bearings, rings, lt wt FP drive rod, FP, and oil pump...new yet most of this was previously owned.

The best things about the Super Budget 454
1. Not a whole lot spent on it
2. Made back all but $50 spent on new parts/machine shop/purchase of the block with sale of the SBC stuff to Chad, Tweety-Monte, and a guy at work
3. In the 12s before Jahooooosafaucet, Gotago, Paul...on no budget.....Priceless!

Edit, added below
Now the costs for going from 13.1/101.78 to 12.787/104.89
b4 4th outing
new larger trans cooler $30
3000 stall $320
flex fan and coupler $45 (IIRC)
MSD box, 6AL....$240
so over $600 USD spent to go faster

Well got the balancer off last night after a little bit of heat and persuasion. The block has no gouging at all. The cam needs a new dowel pin. Looks like my heads to most of the damage. Through all of this none of my lifters are bad and i didn't bend any pushrods... helps when there .135" wall :yes:

Well off to Delta to see if they can put a new pin in