Do these bushings bind if you torque the front lower control arm bolts while the suspension hangs or do the bolts need to be torqued with the car at ride height? I thought I read it didn't matter like it does with rubber or poly bushings, but can't find where I read it.

After doing the tall spindle swap with GW uppers and GW stock height springs, my front-end is still too high. The tall spindles appear to not have lowered the car at all :( I'm wondering if it's the way I torqued the front suspension.

Thanks..

Mine set up really high after the install.

I think the GW springs take a while to sink into the pockets. The ends of my springs were not the same as the stock (had one end flattened and the other un-flattened, while the stocks were both un-flattened).

If you didn't replace the back springs, you might need to. My stock springs had sagged 3 or 4 inches.

I put all new rear suspension pieces and 9-inch rear-end in, but was waiting to figure out the front-end stance before ordering new rear springs. I have the original springs so I'm sure they've sagged by now.

Did I torque the front suspension correctly with the GW del-a-lum bushings?

There's a ton of you guys on here with del-a-lums, where are you hiding?

Rubber bushings are the only bushings that need to be torqued at ride height. Poly & Del-a-lums can be torqued at any time, they are not bonded between the outer and the inner sleeve. If the coil springs need to "sink in the pockets" they are not clocked or pocketed correctly. A quality spring that is installed correctly will not need any more than a trip around the block to be settled.

I have the del-a-lums also, i dont understand in a practical sense why these lower bolts need to be torqued? The bolt goes threw the frame on either side and i dont think its possible to squeeze these two pieces together, and the bushing rotates freely especially if its not bonded to the sleeve. I will torque anyway, iam just curious, oh and one for question do any castle bolts need to be torqued? or just seat it on the taper, tighten until cotter pin goes through.

I spoke with Doug at Global West last week about this very issue. He said to "snug up the bolts, put the car on the ground and give them an 1/8 of a turn more while the car is on the ground". This is how I did mine.