So as you know I ran an all time best of 11.51 in the 66 last Friday. Lost power at 5000 RPM but still ran fast.

So lets say the 1/8 mile time of 7.23 calculates into a 11.30 pass. That's enough to get me kicked off the track for no roll bar.

Remember this was running full exhaust, front sway bar still hooked up, stock rear springs with edelbrock shocks. Best thing in the rear is the anti roll bar. The front I have circle track springs and edelbrock shocks. This tells me there is more left on the table.

So If I was to uncork the headers, remove front sway bar, install drag springs and shocks, and run a real set of slicks is it possible to run a 10sec pass with this little ol 427:D

If nothing changed now but I was able to get a 1.5 60' which is all most a 10th quicker it would be real close to 11.15 pass. If I could get even better traction and knock it down to lets say a 1.4 60' I really think I would be knocking on the door of a NA 10 sec pass.

What do you think??

You gotta get that thing hook consistently. On average what are your 60' times

Kevin,

A bit faster than I have a lotta experience with.....but I will make an educated guess..
no exhaust,
frt suspension upgraded/dialed-in, no sway bar
1.50 60' slicks.....
I think you could do it!

You gotta get that thing hook consistently. On average what are your 60' times


With the MTs I dont really know as this was my first time out with them. All other runs with the BFGs were in the 1.8 range. The 11.51 run had a 1.59 60' and that was the first time I have ever hooked with out any spin. Felt awesome.

Another thing to consider was the DA on Friday.

With the MTs I dont really know as this was my first time out with them. All other runs with the BFGs were in the 1.8 range. The 11.51 run had a 1.59 60' and that was the first time I have ever hooked with out any spin. Felt awesome.

Another thing to consider was the DA on Friday.
Per TOG, it was 2500' DA......my heap woulda picked-up 3/10. Better combos like yours perhaps 2/10s on that alone.....you'd have been most of the way there!:thumbsup:

With the MTs I dont really know as this was my first time out with them. All other runs with the BFGs were in the 1.8 range. The 11.51 run had a 1.59 60' and that was the first time I have ever hooked with out any spin. Felt awesome.

Another thing to consider was the DA on Friday.


I'm thinking some slicks are in your future. I'm not sure on your goals with your car, which btw is awesome. It is an awesome street car, and it seems more and more its getting converted to a track car (buying a truck, trailer....)

If thats the way your leaning I'd say some slicks and maybe a couple tweeks and you'd have an awesome bracket car or track car

You will find very little dif in time increments going from M/T E.T. Streets to M/T slicks so, if your goal is to cruise and drag, stay with the E.T. Streets and if possible tow to the track, IMHO from past experience on Taz.

I think 9's are just an easy 200hp shot away:D

I think 9's are just an easy 200hp shot away:D


That just open up a hole can of worms.:D


So the question is do you think the car can dip into the 10s with optimal drag suspension??

The fact of the matter is that Im not going to redo the entire suspension just to go 10s without a cage in the car. That is why the thread is Hypothetical except for the question. You already know my feelings on the cage. If I could go 11.20-30 with what I have now it would exceed my expectations with this combo yet it will mean that I cant run anymore without a cage which is fine with me right now.

Might be fun to build a designated race car and drop the 427 into it and build an iron headed version of my 427 to run in the chevelle. Just thinking out loud right now.

Do you really think you will be satisfied after you hit 10's? From what we know about you now,,, :noway:

Do you really think you will be satisfied after you hit 10's? From what we know about you now,,, :noway:


To tell you the truth Brett Im very satisfied with the car right now. 11.50 is exactly what I was shooting for and I know that it will go faster so its perfect. But really what sounds better?
I own a 10 sec Chevelle:D
I own a 11 sec Chevelle :sad:

Just want to know how much more I could get out of it with the right suspension.

I think 9's are just an easy 200hp shot away:D

I like your way of thinking!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

I own a 10 sec Chevelle
I own a 11 sec Chevelle


:noway:












"I own a 9 sec Chevelle" sounds better....

Of course...


"I own an 8 sec Chevelle" has a sweet ring too it too...:D:cool:

:noway:

"I own a 9 sec Chevelle" sounds better....

Of course...


"I own an 8 sec Chevelle" has a sweet ring too it too...:D:cool:


Your funny Greg.

I just want to lay down a real good NA 1/4 if Im going to get kicked off. It would be cool to hit it with a small 100 or 125 shot hit the 10s get kicked off.

125 shot of nitro ( Wife and house)
10 sec pass ( Wife and house)
having a 10 sec time slip ( priceless:D)

If it hooked then your 60ft probably isnt going to get better unless you either add more power or deliver more power at the launch. IE a better converter, or more gearing.

If it hooked then your 60ft probably isnt going to get better unless you either add more power or deliver more power at the launch. IE a better converter, or more gearing.

I think My phones gonna ring real soon.:D

If it hooked then your 60ft probably isnt going to get better unless you either add more power or deliver more power at the launch. IE a better converter, or more gearing.

So what you are saying is that suspension work is so you can get the car to hook and if I hooked on that last pass then any suspension work would be moot at the HP level I'm at to achieve a better 60'?
Then it sounds like the only thing to do is run it again and try to improve the 60' slighly and maybe I can get in the 11.25-30 range if it will run out the back.

So what you are saying is that suspension work is so you can get the car to hook and if I hooked on that last pass then any suspension work would be moot at the HP level I'm at to achieve a better 60'?
Then it sounds like the only thing to do is run it again and try to improve the 60' slighly and maybe I can get in the 11.25-30 range if it will run out the back.

Correct, ur converter being a 9.5" isnt going to hit as hard as say a 8" would. This is another reason why you are able to hook without having the optimal suspension right now. That along with you did build an anti-stroker which is going to have less bottom end to get out of the whole. This is where more gearing would help you. Most likely help on the top end as well.

I would be trying to figure out why it ran out of rpm at the top first though.:yes:

Think about this say ur motor makes 500ft lbs. first geat is 2.42, and gearing is 3.73, when multiplied you get 4513.3 total ft lbs.

Say a bigger motor makes 600ft lbs, same gearing it makes. 5415.96 total.

If you take ur 500ft lb motor and 2.42 gears and 4.47 rear gears. That gives you 5415.96 total.

What im trying to say is toss some 4.56s in that sucker.:D Heck its gona be on the trailer soon anyways.

What im trying to say is toss some 4.56s in that sucker.:D Heck its gona be on the trailer soon anyways.

He had 456s in it IIRC, and he changed them to 373s.......................

I follow his postings closely as I know what he has for a motor and rear gearing. Now if he'd have just left the TKO in it I'd have the perfect test mule:D

Interesting observation BrIan about the destroker and gearing, I'm contemplating a gear change myself and was thinking about how I hardly ever drive the car on the street and trailer it to the track. Hey Kevin, put the 456s back in it and get a set of M&H racemasters and test em for me will ya?;)

I still have the 4.56 here if you want them:)

Like Mark I like following Kevin's combo because I run 3.73's and a 275-60 tire.

I find this interesting although there are other factors that come into play...

My 355 on a 125 shot and 3.90 's with 26" = 374.6hp / 520.9 tq with a best 60' of 1.60

Kevin's 427 (with it's bad azz self) and 3.73's and ___"= 377hp / torq ??? with a 60' of 1.59

I had little to no slip on that 1.60 pass with no front sway bar, Santhuff front springs, 90/10 shocks, rear SSM bars, Lakewood 50/50's, and air bags.

The cars should be similar in weight... I think what Brian's saying makes a lot of sense... with no traction issues, a set amount of power at a certain gear ratio is going to do only so much work.

Kevin, I know you had loose rockers on the dyno, and Doc seems pretty certain I should be making more power as well.... I just thought it was kind of interesting how the cars are performing out to 60' at least.

I would be trying to figure out why it ran out of rpm at the top first though.:yes:



I checked everything and all was good on the top end as far as rockers and vavle lash. I did check the fuel filter and just a little of junk in there. I took it out for a drive and got over 5000 rpm pretty easy in 3rd.

Im thinking back to back runs with no cool down or shutting off the motor made things real hot under the hood making the fuel hot or it was just the throttle cable. Only way to find out is to run again.

I think I will get a longer hose for my fuel pressure gauge and mount it under the cowl so I can keep an eye on it.

What kind of fuel pressure should I have?

Hmmmmmm, I've never tried multiplying those numbers. It looks to me like changing the 1st gear ratio in the transmission to a 2.75 would net the best 60' numbers(TCI has a 2.75 1st and 1.57 2nd gear set available)....hopefully not causing a bog to 3rd though since the MPH would be lower at the shift point. The only reason I mention that is because if I use my estimated engine HP(450), my 3.42 1st gear, and 3.73 rear gears I end up with 5740.47 total.

Keeping the 3.73s in there would keep the trap speed MPH up and stay streetable. While changing gearing in the rear diff. makes total sense for a car made to run at the track, I'd rather sacrifice having to shift up a little early on the street instead. Just another angle...

EDIT Fuel pressure may vary for a mechanical pump, not sure what they're factory set at but 6-7psi is good.

My Carter 72 with 3/8's factory line sits at 9 PSI.

I gotta say, the Kitsap Kid and his 'anti-stroker' comments seem to be spot-on.
This is...if you are optimizing the car for the track.
What happened to "no cage?"
Looks like you are heading full speed ahead toward one.

30" slicks from me and 4.56 from MikeP
I know I'd be interested in your 3.73 gearset....

The title of the thread is Hypothetical question. No Im not changing gears, installing a cage and no nitrous. The car works very well as is:yes:


My only real problem is to run it again and risk running faster than 11.50 and get told not to come back without a cage.

Or have fun trying to fine the correct shift RPMs to run in the 11.5-6 range so I can atleast still run the car without a cage.

I think I'd run it hard through 1st and 2nd and find out at what point you have to lift to stay under the 11.50 limit.

That way you get the fun of the launch and acceleration and just chop off a little of the high speed. Maybe a self imposed 1000' limit.

I gotta say, the Kitsap Kid and his 'anti-stroker' comments seem to be spot-on.
This is...if you are optimizing the car for the track.
What happened to "no cage?"
Looks like you are heading full speed ahead toward one.

30" slicks from me and 4.56 from MikeP
I know I'd be interested in your 3.73 gearset....

you know George there are other people that run 3.73's and soon will run a 427..... I have been contemplating a gear swap this winter

Kevin,

You 'could' go back to an 850 DP...that should slow it down enough....to run 'only' 11.5.
Or get all the electronics and throttle stops stuff....gets a bit expensive but it is reliable.